tblack

I was going to fly out and drive it home. I see from your location you were only 20 miles away. If I like them I buy them not in it for the profit only the fun.

truck is my new winter project...and yes it is a 1925 or 1926 but titled as a 1922.

1922 to 1924 4 cylinder buick missing the surround sheetmetal on the engine....the cowl looks to maybe be 1924...so probably 1924 drive train

Plastigage and run with it....worst case you re-visit it later if you find yourself running the car hard. On my first 16 d35..I had to babbitt as the main bearing babbit was cracked

The curse of the cotter pin design!!!! got a little better when the adopted the set screw in the 20s. On my recently sold 1917 D45 they improved the design using after market connecting rods, pistons and pins that mirrored the more modern design of affixing the piston pin to the rod and letting wrist pins articulate in the pistons. Still not sure what rods they used but it looked like a casting date of 1948. The rods used dippers for splash lubrication as original. If I ever had to rebuild another 4 cylinder Buick I would look to this improvement.

Justin and I were close to a deal but shipping costs across the country are too much to have value when you are done. Note a plug for the car it was built by Harold Johansen...do a little research on his name and you find he had a long distinguished career in his type of racing. Engine is probably really well done. Thanks

Should be a fun ride...great style with the 2 door model...century supposedly 100 mph car but a little scary at 90mph. Mine is now somewhere over near Russia in one of the former "stan" countries. Good luck and have fun

JBuick.....I had the same model nice car I sold it few years back. On one of my spare engines the water pump shaft had been cut and a new piece added....they retained all the complicated parts of the shaft assossiated with the gear and bushing and simply replaced the straight 3/4 shaft through the pump. the new shaft and old shaft were coupled with a keyed coupler. Note on the 1921...they were cutting corners that year and it is required to oil the sleeve bearing coming out of the water pump gear every 500 miles. I went about 700 miles and the shaft tied right up. I eventually remedied the situation using a bearing sleeve from a 1923 pump. It had a slinger ring in it that promoted proper lubrication. Have fun with your car, keep it at or under 45. It will go faster but why push the old girl

Justin...sent you a PM for your consideration

Justin... thanks for your response seeing the other side of the engine explains that a fair bit of plumbing was done the external oil filter is a nice touch. Interesting the overhead felt was oiled...your friend Jim is he available to talk to? I'll send you a PM and perhaps he or we can talk.

Let's phase the question differently....what does the updated system have that the stock 27 did not. I know on the first chevy 6 cylinders you can buy a better pump. The 6 had pressurized mains over head oiling but the rest of the system still splash .

interesting car...how do you achieve an updated pressurized oiling system on a 4 cylinder chevy?

Well the other cars I was looking at to replace the chevy in the keeper category fell through so at this point I'm pulling the car off the market. I will though be open to buying a project car for the coming winter Thanks

Glad those plugs worked for you they worked for me as well .......I sold the car!!! so until its picked up I can only go out in the garage and look at it. I have a couple of leads on possible next projects, just to keep buy.

It would be a long search to find one better than this one.