dibarlaw

carmover. It should be black. I had mine powder coated. Looks great. Are you back on the road yet? Larry

Thanks for posting on this topic. I will be interested in some responses. On my 1925-25 the starter pedal engages very smoothly and no grinding. On my 1925-45 Master I really have to "MASH" down on the starter plunger to keep engagement or it grinds very easily.To me that would not seem normal. Leif Holmberg is sending me scans of the 1925 Master Book of Parts so I will have a better Idea of how the plunger set up is supposed to look as opposed to the standard pedal arrangement.

Matt: Specials have the single stage fuel pump. I had my wiper motor rebuilt and when returned, the rebuilder said that was the best he could do. So, it still did not work. "Rainex" is great stuff. I needed it on out 36-38 trip to Nashville in Sept 2015 also on the downpours we had at Allentown. I bought a later NOS replacement from the '"wiperman " at Hershey 2 years ago. I installed that one last fall. It works fine but the bushings on the wiper arm towers need attention. So I was ready for any April Showers on the 36-38 tour to Wilmington. Oh well, hope we can meet again. C Carl's points are all good comments. Just remember that the bit of extra H.P. will not overcome the R.P.M. to rear axle ratio issue. Gary: I will have to repair my block drain as you have done. Beautiful, well thought out and researched work! Best Regards: Larry

The 1922-45 John Fesser and I worked on outside of Baltimore had several bent push rods. As I turned the engine over with the crank John could see nothing moving on top of #s 5 and 6 but the push rods would spring out with every revolution.Took us about 30 minutes to get the valves unstuck and straighten the pushrods on a hardwood block on the concrete floor. Then there was the 1920 K 44 I bid on from a museum in Cumberland MD. All it needed was a little "TLC" according to the description. Not a straight one in the bunch. The top end was dry as a bone. Not a trace of oil. Look at the rust on the valve springs.

Bob: Thank you for the offer. My Master parts book should be just about the same. I need more specific to my n1925 Master since the 1925 Book of Parts shows an illustration of almost every part. Larry

Appears to be a 1926 Catalog.

Even a copy with torn or missing covers will work.

A few more sets have shown up. Close but no cigar.

Joe: Good talking with you last night. I know that all the contacts I suggested you already have. I hope to come down to visit you and your little sport roadster. Photos are of the one I had the privilege to judged at the 2014 Portland Buick Nationals. I do love these 1923 Sport roadsters and tourings. Someday perhaps......

1963 RIVIERA This was posted first in our Mason-Dixon Newsletter "The Porthole" Here are some specs on the Riviera: Runs & Drives, 60,000 original miles, one family vehicle, 401 Nail Head Engine , A/T, Currently wearing American Racing Wheels, still have factory wheels. $18,000 neg. Phone Brad at 717-266-6470 (Manchester PA. ) for further information.

Beautiful looking Model 44. You have a real treasure there! Larry

Shultz23: What model is your roadster? The model 44 or the Model 54 sport roadster?

Gary is blessed with the place to do this type of work. I still have one side of my garage that is gravel with planks and plywood for a working surface. The side where my 1937 sat on jack stands for 25 years. I like Gary's technique better. This was my view the summer of 2010.

Terry: There are some posted on the Buick Pre War Forum.

Thanks for the posted photos of all of our Buick Buddies Pete. I was sorry we missed going this year but the Mason-Dixon Chapter scheduled a tour to America on Wheels at Allentown.

Mark is right about the Book of parts. I would not been able to do much of the work on my 1925 Standard without one. Until I can find a 1925 Master Book of parts the Standard Book has many mechanical assemblies that are similar and is helpful. I am going thru the front brakes and suspension on my Master and have found many mistakes in the assembly of the components.

dracenroc: You have all the bases covered as to information. One of the problems with the shop manuals of this time period is that there is a lot of assumptions that the service mechanic knows how to do certain tasks. There is quite a bit of "disassemble steering box, inspect for wear, reverse procedure to reassemble". Disregarding what order things come apart, first, second, third steps etc. Also, rarely does it mention any application of Buick specific special service tools. I am sure that there were service bulletins issued during this period specific as to the procedural analysis for a mechanic, but copies are rare. Better descriptions are sometimes found in period MOTOR magazines. And other publications targeted to the general repair mechanic. Larry

Carmover: On our 1925 Standards there is just a set screw on the side of the aluminum control cover at the top of the wheel hub. Loosen that and the button pulls out. Then loosen the set screw that holds the wire. Larry

Wow! You even still have the spring covers. Mine were too bad to save. The place that worked on my 37 was to steam clean the front end of the chassis. The first thing on my list. I had already spent one summer on my back scraping and cleaning from the rear bumper to the X member. I did not want to go thru that again. Well they did not clean any thing on the underside. I am still finding things. The front end lower shafts on my car do not have renewable bushings as later cars do. 1936 design. The arms and shafts were very worn. They replaced tie rod ends and king pins and said all was tight. When I went to have the front end aligned and scraped the muck from the front end parts the lower shafts and arm wear showed up. I have yet to adapt the later arms with bushings to replace them. Larry

I love, "Henry's Made A Lady out of Lizzie" by Harry Resser's 6 Jumping Jacks.

Here are some of mine with the Marvel BD1 Set up. .

This is what the bottom oil pump plate on my 1925 Standard looked like before I lapped it. I think the one on my 1937 was just as bad. On my 1937 I lapped the plate and installed new gears.(1988) 8thousand miles later I am still running at 45 lbs. After an all day hot run it may drop to 30lbs.

Don: This is what I made for my 1925-25 and one for Dave in DC for his 1928-25. They work great. Now I have to make one for my 1925-45.

Gary: Make sure the oil pump bottom plate is lapped flat. Larry

Bob: Will this do. Best regards: Larry