Oldtech

Pretty sure you have the original axle, but as mentioned, you have a Standard, not a Master and the rear axle is different.

The circuit breaker will certainly turn the lights off if there is an overload, usually it buzzes, but after 100 yrs anything is possible. If the wiring looks in good shape I would check for problems in the headlight sockets.

Just to add to that: Make sure all the timing parts are working properly like the mechanical advance in the distributor, and the vacuum advance if it has one. Another possibility for low power is a restricted exhaust. As a kind of double check you can time it " by ear" and see if at agrees with the other methods. Block the idle screw or adjust it so it is running about 1500 RPM or so ( like 30 mph) then move the distributor slowly back and forth to see the effect. Find the point of highest rpm, then retard it until it JUST BEGINS to slow. This SHOULD be very close to the point of highest vacuum as previously described. If it is wildly off there is a problem someplace. To address the last question: At idle it should be near zero, then advance to 20-25 at speed. That is why it's important that the advance mechanism is working properly.

No, but it might be a 1929 Studebaker.

I hope the body is as straight and solid as it looks in the picture but probably not. However, resist the temptation to do more than is necessary to start with. Rebuilding a sedan body by Fisher is a HUGE undertaking. If it can be repaired to make it solid, a new top is relatively easy. Mechanicals... You will need a machine shop that will tackle old engines. Ask around. It is a great education if you stick with it. If you have the space, a parts car, however trashed, is always useful.

Interesting story. My Uncles used to build T speedsters. They called them "Bugs" up here in Canada. Unfortunately there are only a couple of pictures of them somewhere in the family collections.

I think you are right. Though IH and Reo look very similar the fenders look more Reo. Also the 8 spoke wheels.

Not quite there yet. But I will.

What does it use for Batteries? I'm guessing it had an array of 6 volts originally.

96 Author .On the drivers side door there is a small on/off button that appears to be looped back to the main wiring loom. I cannot find reference to it in the parts handbook. Maybe an aftermarket addition but would like any feedback on what it could be. I suspect it's the horn button. Are there wires and a contact spring on the hinge side?

I always used the ring end gap system, Use a ringless piston to square it in the bore. I have the same problem with snap gages

Amazing !

I very quickly lost patience with the oversize heads and odd often crooked hardware on my McLaughlin and decided to go with modern hardware everywhere. Exception being a few places where slotted screws are obvious. The original type are expensive and very difficult to find here in Can. Slotted screw hardware is almost non existent.

Are you getting it re-bored? If not, and bores are worn a bit tapered, the clearance applies to the bottom of the bore. Top will be much looser. And I wouldn't bore it for .005 wear. .010 yes. for all the miles it will get. In my poorer youth I have re-ringed engines with maybe .015 taper and had good results for maybe 30,000 miles. These were engines from 50's and 60's I don't remember excessive noise. Don't think you could get away with that with a new one!

No. This is a 2 pole Mag so would have to run double crank speed on an 8 cylinder.

There are 2 different length links in the Chevy world. The threaded one with the curve. I don't know which is for what but you obviously need the longer one.

Like Ed Says. The Exhaust manifold is the only hot spot. Protect that and you will be ok.

This will have the rather ugly system where it is not really a flex plate. It is the front of the fluid coupling. More like a flywheel.

Can't help with parts but check out Mark Kitka's post down 6 pages in Pre-war Buick. He has a wonderfully detailed post on building the top.

Is it wired correctly? Power from starter to switch to coil? Is it a regular coil or the armored cacle?

I think 23-4 Nash

I would agree. The side the slot is offset toward? ( Ya , Bad English)

Ahhh. There's an explanation!.

No rollers. The 4 cylinders just used a plain lifter in a bore in the block at first, Then they went to the better type which has a smaller lifter in an expandable sleeve as the pic above sort-of shows. I would like to know if this was a running change, or a later retrofit to solve the leak issue.

If it is a Splasher there is a small cover plate behind the exhaust pipes on the left side of the engine. This cover will be held on by 2 stove-bolts - originally. If not there it's a pressure engine.