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JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. It's nowhere near as bad as that insane Gemmer worm gear...I haven't a clue where you'd start to make one of those and I suspect, just as you have said, that it was designed to be made on a highly specialized machine. I am curious as to what the machine was and who built it. It's not impossible that there is another one around - perhaps not even being used or used for something else entirely. I once bid on a fantastic gear making machine with all of the tooling of about that vintage...I was the high bidder at $150 but the seller was approached by someone who actually knew what it was and what
  2. Harm, if you are making the boring bar, and it is large enough in diameter, the "factory" bar I have has blind holes for the boring bit. A light spring goes under the the bit to press it up against the micrometer face. This is clearly the way to go. I wasn't able to do that with the small bar I made and, while it worked, it was difficult to hold a tolerance smaller than about .002. That wasn't a problem in my case because I was making a bushing to fit the bored hole but in your case I think it might be critical to getting a really precise measurement. Also, I've no idea where you'd
  3. I finished the new retaining retaining ring for the pump packing and assembled the pump this morning. I then mounted it on an angle plate and filled it with water. This isn't a real test...but if a leak does show up it might as well be fixed now. To my surprise I did get a leak - a tiny one and not in any of the places you'd normally expect. It's weeping a tiny bit of water at the junction of the bronze piece and the main casting. This should be easy to fix as it just needs a better gasket. I'm going to let that stand for a few days. Terry offered to make
  4. I'll photograph them tomorrow and post them so you don't have to sift through the entire thread. It's so long I'm not sure I could find it. I had to make one for the 3/4" boring bar I made to do the cam shaft and I also fitted a new micrometer head to the adjusting tool that actually goes with the 1-1/4" bar the line boring machine is designed to use... the new micrometer head reads in tenths of a thousandth. What is the diameter of your boring bar? jp
  5. My plan is to assemble the first Cadillac pump...then move on to the gear cutting. I'd like to get the parts of the Cadillac pump off the bench and put aside so this morning I shortened 4 of these stainless cheese head screws to hld down the cap I made Friday. Then started the assembly. Rather than a paper gasket - which would be a devil to cut neatly, I'm using a thin, flat 0-ring that is only about .120 thick with some RTV silicone "form a gasket". This part went smoothly...I also put in the Zerk fittings and the drain,
  6. Great photos Ed. This is just a guess but I think the vessel is the USS Mayflower, the Presidential yacht. The date is 1917. It seems to have something to do with the visit of these two French officers, I presume War Heroes because both have the Croix de Guerre and the one on the right also has been decorated with the Legion of Honor. Neither are senior officers and they could be aviators. In WWI the French aviation service did not have a specific uniform. Members wore the uniform of the branch of service they came from and these were frequently somewhat different. As
  7. "Greasy" was the euphemism used at the time. A cobbled street with a generous coating of horse buns and urine. They stank and attracted flies...which is one reason why anyone who could afford to got out of the city in the supper. Chains were originally introduced to deal with mud in the countryside and greasy streets in the city. Practically no one drove in snow.
  8. 47 RPM sounds about right. When I did this I was using a boring bar that was quite a bit smaller so this may not be pertinent but I drilled the hole for the bit off center by about .050. That allowed me to grind its point .050 thicker and still have it come out on the center line as well as giving me more thickness in the bar for the set screw that locks it in place. I also made the adjusting tool and if you go back through the Mitchell thread you should find it.
  9. At the urging of Frank, "F&J," I've decided to start a thread on my ongoing revival of a 1910 Mitchell. Here's where I started, about 4 years ago... I think this must have been someone's parts car/project. It wasn't complete and the odd bits missing make little sense unless it was more or less slapped together for a sale. The engine, which is correct, may not have started life in this chassis because both it, and the front cross member which is the other place the engine number is stamped, have clearly been out of the car and apart. Nevertheless, it was the biggest
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