JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. Great job Ted...and really, its a gas tank...if it was perfect it probably wouldn't be authentic.
  2. It's a well known car. I was told – and cannot verify this – that RR was so horrified by it that they cancelled the warranty on the car. Photos of it have been around the RR community for years, always citing it as about the worst body ever mounted on one - although I'd be inclined to give that trophy to some of the creations for Indian rajas and native princes.
  3. I was planning on making a cartridge core. I even designed a little machine to swedge the tubes but I'm not adverse to buying one. I just won't (or more accurately can't) pay thousands for a radiator. Mitchell used a separate shell so I don't have the problem of making perfect brass tanks. Supposedly, the 1910 cars had brass shells and the 1911 cars had steel shells. I have my doubts it is that clear cut...most of the restorations have brass shells but that could easily be the usual business of getting as much brass on the car as the owner can justify. I prefer the steel shell because it draws out the line of the hood a little. One of the people I've been exchanging information with has offered to make me a shell. I have a radiator, albeit in very sad condition...too far gone to be used but good for dimensions. If I can I'll take a picture tomorrow and post the dimensions. Thanks,' jp
  4. Thanks Ed. I am certain it is much better for you suggestions.
  5. This is the front plate with the grease fitting fitted. I them milled a notch in the split bushing. It's 9/16" rather than 1/2" to give it a little clearance. Next I turned a notch in the bushing and drilled 4 holes at 90-degrees so the grease can reach the shaft. Then removed the extra 1/4". And pressed all the bushings in. So here it is assembled... And, in going through my stuff I found this neat little syringe that I will make into a "water pump only" grease gun for the special threaded fitting.
  6. Oh, I sleep, but I don't have a TV and I haven't many friends in the area. I don't have a wife or children either so I've very few distractions. I do machine work during the day and writing/editorial work at night. When not doing either I read. I find the British National Archives quite easy to work with...it's a new facility (or at least in the last 15 years). The catalog is not difficult to use and if you have a problem so far I've found the staff very helpful. If you have a lot to do (as I do this time) you can request more the material in advance and they will have it ready when you arrive. Oddly enough, I've never been to the US Archives in Washington but I've been to Kew many times.
  7. I'm visiting friends and planning to spend a fair amount of time in the National Archives where I have a large number of figures to check for the book I am working on and that I expect to finish this year - so this is my last chance.
  8. Moving along with the business of putting 2 seals on each side of the pump, I reduced the longer of the two bushings by 1/4" I then made an aluminum ring 1/4" thick to act as a dummy seal when I press the bearing in so it will stop at the right spot. That worked just fine... I then moved on to the front plate of the pump. This once is even more challenging because the grease has to go in through the boss on the plate as well as the split bushing which can 't come off once the timing adjuster is fitted. It is also under the cap that holds everything together and I'm loath to put a hole in that. After buying several grease fittings I came up with another idea. I made one of my threaded sleeves....1`/2-20 OD and 3/-16 ID. This will screw into the boss and I will put a notch in the split bushing to accommodate it. I've seen fittings like this before but I don't think on a car...the grease gun has a threaded tip that screws into the hole. When it's charged with grease, a grub screw is put in to plug the hole. The threaded sleeve has to be short enough so that it will not touch the cap that holds the pump but long enough to have a few threads. This sleeve is just under 1/2" so the grease gun will screw in 7 or 8 threads. You'll have to take the cap off to grease the front bearing but it is easily accessible. Lining up the front plate to drill the hole was something of a problem because I super-glued the brass studs in. I finally came up with something, having left last night wondering how to do it. I used a long center drill to start the hole. This drill is 1/2" in diameter so I set it so it was only about .003 from the face of the plate. Then drilled the hole... and tapped it... I put the sleeve in with a drop of Locktite on the threads but forgot to take a picture...next I'll do the notch in the split bushing but it's late and my back hurts so that's for tomorrow.
  9. This is really impressive work. It looks as if you've built the entire body in 12 weeks...
  10. I'll try. So far we have had an extremely mild winter so perhaps the weather will follow me over. I've taken Ed's suggestions very much to heart...they remind me of one of my favorite quotes from Poor Richard's Almanac, "A wise man learns from other's mistakes. A fool has to make his own." I'm trying to finish the water pump before I leave...I may even do it. The grease cup came out better than it had any right to.
  11. Real water pump grease apparently isn't as easy to find as it once was. Somewhere I have a can of Oilzum that I bought in the Summer of 1971. I suspect it's oxidized by now so I was going to buy some Castrol when I'm in the UK next week. I mentioned this to a friend who was fixing something in my shop today and he said "don't bother" - he has several cans of it. I did plan I'd rather use the real stuff but it's good to know that is the right decision.
  12. I like the O-ring idea. I'm afraid that removing enough bushing to add another seal would take to much away from the bearing surface though I've no data to tell me one way or the other. As it is, it's 1-1/2" on one side and 1-1/4" on the other side. The seals take up 1/4" so I'd loose that much on either side. Does that sound reasonable to you? On second thought...total length of bearing with 2 seals is still 2-1/4" which ought to be plenty given the relatively low stress on it, especially if no water can get to the shaft. Ed, you got me thinking so I did a quick search on bearing loads. In as much as my limited math skills allow it appears that the maximum recommended bearing surface is 4:1 (bearing length:shaft diameter). With a 3/4" shaft the length ratio is 3:1 WITH the two seals.
  13. To finish the grease cup I had to make another holding fixture. Another example of 2 hours to make the tool and 20 minutes to do the job. I think I'm my most severe critic but in this case I can't see how the job could have come out any better. In order for the greast to get to the shaft I put a groove in the bushing... and drilled 4 holes at 90 degrees. Then pressed the bushing back in. One little additional piece was the rear cover plate. I think it was rubbing a little and, since I reused this from the previous pump (and all the holes weren't drilled at the same time) I'm not surprised. In any case, it's just a cover for the seal so I drilled it out to 13/16 using a piece of the previous pump to hold it.
  14. I've lived in RI my entire life and owned business here. While I have plenty to complain about, I doubt it is the worst spot. We had a thriving yacht building business until the State decided to tax it into oblivion - never thinking that people who could million dollar yachts could afford to have them built anywhere. That said, I am certain you will do your homework before trying to set up here and I doubt our state and local governments are any more bothersome than the County Council is wherever you are (I looked at the web site but didn't see the location). Ed makes a good point in that that the few people who do this sort of work are aging out. The fact that it is a very limited market is just as true in the UK as it is here. Distances in the US may be greater but Americans are accustomed to that. I doubt that for a custom built body, the distances would be much of an issue. Its clear from your web site and the attached links that you know the business. Location is more a matter of convenience (although I would stay clear of California). You might try contacting the RI Dept. of Business Regulation. The state is so small that your enquiry will probably end up on the evening news. They will, of course try to make the place sound enticing but also can tell you what the average costs are and perhaps steer you in the direction of an area where such a business would be welcome.
  15. The SAE standard threads came about as a result of the problems the Motor Transport Corps had with repairs in WWI. Making nuts and bolts in the field was often necessary because of the wide variety of threads. After the war, the government insisted that future purchases for the Army must have a standard thread applicable regardless of the supplier. My late Great Uncle, Sam Pendleton, belonged to the 310th MTC, a job he got because he knew how to drive which was a skill relatively few enlisted men had at the time.
  16. Thanks for the offer. If I had something appropriate I would be but I only have one old car - a 1910 Mitchell - and it is VERY dismantled. Back in the 70s I was in the Robert Redford version of The Great Gatsby with my 1926 Cadillac (4 years too new for the book by the way) but the director wasn't that fussy and was more interested in what people thought the cars looked like than what they really would look like in 1922. If I remember correctly, there were only about 4 cars that were actually of the correct vintage.
  17. I can't say I'm surprised you knew the colors were slightly different...
  18. Have you looked into the exact color for the period? I think what we call "olive drab" changed quite a bit between WWI and WWII. It may never have been all that consistent either.
  19. I think that's a pretty good idea. Given how few people are mechanical enough to do their own work, a "Plug & Play" system might have a market. You'd have to make it clear it isn't "guaranteed to work" though because you are bound to get someone trying it on an engine that it plugged solid with crud.
  20. If you can't find one I can make it for you... I might also have one from my car, I'll look tomorrow.
  21. The felt came in so perhaps, if I have the time tomorrow, I'll make a couple of seals for test purposes. Having milled the half-round relief for the grease cup (the really tense part), today I drilled a center hole... Then drilled through both walls of the inlet plate... I also used a counterbore to make a perfectly flat surface for the fiber washer. And then tapped the hole, all without moving the piece as it is critical that all these operations be in perfect alignment. I then assembled everything and discovered that the nut I'd made was much too short . something like .200. So, I made a new nut. I had an idea of how to use some 3/4 brass hex stock I have so, in the end, it's better for the problem. You can see the threaded piece passing through the water passage. I had intended to put sealing varnish on the threads but it all fits so perfectly that I may test it just as it is. I now have to make a holding fixture for the cap which is about .010-.015 to large in diameter. I thought that might be a problem because it's made of 1" bar and the milling cutter was 1" in diameter. That is cutting it too close and the milled relief was the really critical part. If I have to make another cap, so be it.
  22. I checked the second box although I think the question is much too broad. Some modification is almost always the case in keeping really old - say more than 50 or 60 year old vehicles on the road. Generally this forum is tolerant of that but if the "as it came from the factory" rule was applied to all cars, just about none of the pre-war cars would be acceptable and the question is almost laughable where brass cars are concerned. I DO NOT mean putting a SBC in any car...or replacing an entire drive train with modern components. I have no idea how this could be policed. To a great extent it is subjective and writing a hard and fast rule is impossible.
  23. Thanks Ted. I have some 1/4" hard felt coming and I'll experiment with that first. I know it works with oil but I wonder if it will work in this case. It's worth finding out in any case.
  24. This morning I cut the threaded end off the grease fitting... And drilled it. The tiny drill wasn't quite long enough so I drilled it from both ends. Grease cups have a funnel at the bottom but I don't have enough depth to do that. To get some "funnel" shape I used this HSS router bit, which really worked a charm. I put a little further taper in with a center drill also. With that done, I made the cap... Here it is screwed onto the fitting. I also put a knurl on the end. It is quite possible the OD will be a tiny bit too large. If so, I'll have to make a holding fixture and turn it down a small amount. The rest of the afternoon was spent dismantling the pump again and setting it up to mill a relief in the plate for the grease fitting. I have to do this in order to make the grease come out in the middle of the bearing. Strangely enough, the measurements worked out perfectly - as if I'd thought of this in advance. This was a tension wracked operation and when I finished, about 4:30, I decided to let the rest wait for tomorrow.
  25. I decided I wasn't happy with any of the adaptations I came up with to use a regularly available grease cup because the area I have to work with is very tight. So, I decided to make one to fit the available space. The first thing I made was this nut... 5/8 across the flats. The rebate at the bottom will center on a fiber washer. The nut screws on to the long 3/8-24 threaded section. The big end, where the cap screws on, was threaded 7/8-18 which is an old SAE spark plug size. I thought I'd have to make a threading gauge but I remembered that I bought the tap to thread the caps that go over the intake valves. The Mitchell originally used pipe thread plugs but, because they fit Model T's, NOS plugs are really expensive so I made my caps to take the other size. I still have the original caps so I can use either type of plug. According to the late Harold Sharon, no modern plug is hot enough for a brass car regardless of the thread so I was able to buy a set of 6, nearly new, for something like $30. Most of the big threaded end will be cut off to make the top of the cap. and the long 3/8 section will be inside the pump. I have to cut it off and drill a hole through the entire piece, then make the cap. I would have liked to use brass for the nut but didn't have an 5/8 hex bar and didn't want to wait for it to come in. I doubt it will be noticeable, especially as, if this comes out right, it will look as if it was originally designed that way.