JV Puleo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. I found it but this computer has a problem copying things. Do a search on "1911 Buick Model 14" and you should find it. The pictures, which were from Photobucket, are trashed but the description of what he did is there. I think I'd already made mine when I read this and thought "what a good idea."
  2. Yes. And you won't find anything on the internet. I pretty much dreamed this one up myself but I know it will work because I did it many years ago with a 1911 REO. I had to store it for the winter and the only way to get it to the storage garage was to drive it. I simply added a contact to the center of the cap, mounted a coil (a very old one) on the firewall and wired it as if it was a distributor. I'm happy to share what I've figured out but you might also do a search on this site. Several years ago a fellow restored a two-cylinder Buick and did something similar although he used a 12-volt alternator from a Kubota loader mounted inside the mag case. I think something like that might work better on the Humberette. I'm not satisfied with the job I did. It was just about the first thing I made and I made several errors. There are very small 12-volt alternators that might work just fine.... I've decided to go to a Bosch ZU4 mag and mount a generator or alternator where the oiler went. I haven't yet thought out how to disguise it but it will be something similar to the one I made from the mag... only without the distributor. You'll need a "parts" 2-cylinder mag, preferably the largest that will fit in the space or make the case to fit the distributor head on the mag. I don't understand the "V-angle". It would seem to me that a 2-cylinder mag or distributor would just have 2 lobes opposite each other but you know a lot more about electrical engineering than I do.
  3. I hadn't thought about that but it must be the case with this engine as well. I'm going to have to figure the valve and ignition timing from scratch because even if I had the original specs (which I don't) I've changed the compression and the cam...it might be rather complicated and I can't say that is one of my strong points.
  4. I think the Mitchell is offset 1" which is the most I've ever heard of. I drilled the hole for the cam bearing retainer this morning. And then reamed it to 5/16". The holes will now be in perfect alignment with each other and the retaining bolt. I also counterbored the cap so the bolt will sit in it firmly. Next, I cut a piece of 1-1/4 hex stock to make a lock nut. Because it is larger than my hex collets I had to resort to the "3-jaw in the 4-jaw" chuck setup. I faced one side, drilled and threaded it. I'll finish this later, after I've taken the chucks off. Next I put the steel hex stock that will be the actual bolt in the machine to turn it round on one end. This didn't work. There isn't enough material in the chuck to hold it without slipping back. But, this piece is going to be drilled and threaded on the hex end to receive a banjo fitting so I decided to do that first. To get a flat bottom on the hole I used a 29/64 end mill - the hole size for the 1/2-20 banjo bolts. After threading the hole, I put a piece of threaded rod in a collet to hold the hex end of the bolt and keep it from turning. I'll use this to finish the lock nut as well. I got about half-way through turning it round before I decided to quit for the day. Hopefully, I'll finish this piece tomorrow.
  5. Mike... I looked into fitting a tach to my Mitchell and found that they actually aren't geared to the shaft. They use something akin to an old engine governor...spinning weights pressing against a spring. The reading on the dial is determined by the strength of the spring. I've never taken one apart to look inside because I eventually decided not to do it but I still have the tach...it's yours if you can use it. j
  6. No but it was a fairly common aspect of engine design at the time. In this case it is rather exaggerated. I forget now what the reason was. I think Model T Ford cranks are off cnter but not as much. (Never having worked on a Model T engine, I can't say that from personal experience.)
  7. I should have moved on to putting the inserts in but I've promised to do a little job for the foundry next door and didn't want to tie the mill up... so I finished the water pump greasing tool. This is a piece of 3/8 brass rod with a hole drilled through the center and threaded 3/16 on one end. I also made an aluminum slug to put in the cup when I solder it as solder won't stick to it... And soldered the brass rod into the grease cup. Then filled it with water pump grease and tried it. This is how it works. You have to remove the cap that hold the pump in place but the shaft from the drive gear holds it firm while you grease the pump. That went smoothly so I decided to try one of my really critical jobs...something I've been putting off because it scares me. Drilling the hole that will allow me to get oil to the center main under pressure. To do this I bought an extra long 3/16 "chip clearing" drill. The scary part is that you are working blind. The hole has to come out so that the connections will fit between the blocks. I measured it quite a few times and finally went ahead with fingers crossed. And thankfully, it came out just about perfect. The little brass screw is in the hole any you can see the bodge in the casting where I suspect it had originally been intended to put the oil line. I also forgot about daylight savings time so I thought it was only 4:00 when it was really 5:00. So, I made this tool to drill and ream the center camshaft bearing and it's retaining cap. This is a piece of 1/2-20 threaded rod with a hole in the center that is 1/64th under 5/16. It's a "one time" fixture...I soldered the nut on so I could tighten it. The idea is to use it to locate the drill perfectly centered on the retaining bolt. The hole will be reamed to 5/16 so I should have perfectly aligned holes in both the bearing and it's cap. The actual bolt (that I've yet to make) will have a 5/16 projection on it that will lock the bearing and it's cap in place under pressure. It will also be drilled 3/16 and have a banjo fitting on top so I can feed oil from the center bearing to the camshaft.
  8. Yes, definitely. If the rod was has hard as the insert for the bearing has to be it would be much too brittle. I'd bore the big rod to take one of the HD inserts - that way you would know that the bearing is more than adequate for the stresses involved.
  9. Both the driver and the passenger are wearing WWI British uniforms. The driver is an officer (you can tell by the rank insignia on his lower sleeve). I'd suspect the only the car is American. A lot of US cars and trucks were exported to Britain during the war...the Pierce Arrow and Peerless trucks come to mind and the British Red Cross used Buicks.
  10. If you machine them from scratch, there is no need to copy the original dimensions exactly, especially the taper to the long section. Clearance is the only thing that matters. The conventional shape of a con rod was dictated by the need to remove it from a forging die, not the actual stresses on the rod. If you look at the "machined all over" rods used on some very expensive cars (Simplex comes to mind) you will see that the center portion is often straight. The highest stress comes at the center. It should be perfectly acceptable to increase some of the dimensions to the maximum amount the clearance allows.
  11. I've finished the threaded inserts. These are 7/16-20 inside and 9/16-18 outside. I'm hoping this is the end of making them though I'm certain there will be a few more...at least I won't have to make so many. Next I'll make bolt that will hold the camshaft bearing in place, drilled so I can get oil pressure to the cam. After that, it is back to working on the crankcase, putting the inserts in and, eventually boring the main bearings.
  12. I'd have serious reservations about welding con rods, mostly because failure would be so catastrophic. I've heard of it being done but my guess is that you'd need to x-ray the welds afterward to make certain they were perfect. How about making them whole out of 7075 aluminum? Because of the way they are constructed it would be a lot easier than a conventional rod. The only serious problem would be getting the hole for the bearing perfect and that could be done with a reamer ground to the exact size needed. 7075 is tougher than the conventional 6061 - the tensile strength is very close to mild steel. It's commonly used for gears and, I think, aluminum rods as well. I know it is stronger than Lynnite - the alloy used around 1918 for pistons and for Franklin connecting rods a little later. The big proponent of aluminum for engine parts was Laurence Pomeroy, once chief engineer at Vauxhall. After WWI he moved to America where he worked for Alcoa developing alloys for engine applications. I have some period SAE papers on the subject I can send you.
  13. Yes...it's an old expression. We still have 10d nails...
  14. Thanks Ted. I pressed on with the threaded inserts...this is one of those jobs that takes time and hardly shows at all when it's done. I would have bought them if they were available. Both of my two "old car" friends from my youth visited yesterday, one to make something and the other to drill and tap a hole in a Corvair transaxle for a drain plug so I didn't quite finish threading the inside of the inserts until this morning. The inserts for the sump...in keeping with my one superstition I made an extra insert because if I have it, I won't need it. Now I'll make 12 more for the rod caps. Those will be 9/16-18 OD and 7/16-14 ID.
  15. Wow Jeff, You've come a very long way in a very short time from that first lathe. With a few more bits & pieces you'll be able to repair just about anything.
  16. Thank you... I'm still feeling the after effects of jet lag. I didn't bother me in the past but the older I get, the more it leaves me completely knackered. While waiting for the die I need I decided to make the threaded inserts for the sump and the studs that will secure the connecting rod caps. I need 30 of these, 18 for the sump and 12 for the rod caps. It isn't a difficult job but since I have to make them one at the time, it is tedious. Neverrtheless, it's going faster than it did in the past since I've finally worked out a system. The first step is to drill the rod for the internal thread and thread it. Then it's cut off... It is easy to do but since I'm constantly changing tools, and got called away for a couple of other small jobs I only got 10 made today.
  17. I've long been of the opinion that rebuilding antique machine tools is much better practice for working on brass cars than working on modern cars is. They have a great deal in common, not the least of which is that most parts are "machined". Ironically, machine tools are much more demanding than 90 percent of any car where precision is required so if you can get old machines up and running you can probably handle almost all early car work.
  18. This morning I went back to some finishing touches on the water pump. The first step was to lightly lap the shaft and the extension that will hold the drive gear in place with everything tightened up. I did this with Time Saver lapping compound because it degrades, making it nowhere near as important to get every bit of the residue out which, in this case would be impossible without removing the bearings. Time Saver is a powder that you mix with light oil. I used an old veterinary syringe to force it into the bearings through the grease holes and fitted the hand wheel I made for my unsuccessful radius turning tool to turn the shaft. While I was away, I bought this grease cup. This will be made into a tool to force grease into the front bearing. I have to remove the threaded portion. Unfortunately, the threaded area for the cap is raised so I can't easily grip it in the chuck. The body of the grease cup is 1-1/4" in diameter so I put a piece of 1-1/4" ground stock in the chuck and indicated it. Then loosened two of the jaws and replaced it with the grease cup pushed far enough back so that the jaws don't touch the threads. The pipe threads were turned off, after which it was drilled and reamed to 3/8" I need to make an extension so that when it is screwed in it will clear the OD of the pump. I also need to thread one end 3/8-16 and discovered that my only die is too big for my die holder. I ordered one and will get back to this when it arrives. The extension will be soldered into the grease cup. The whole thing is a bit awkward but not really a problem because I doubt the pump will need to be greased more than a two or three times a year. I intend to include running board tool boxes fitted for the special tools I've made for the car...there are several others as well.
  19. The battery was up in half an hour and I'm now back in the shop having one of those "what do I do next" moments. But, I will have more tonight even if it isn't much. j
  20. It looks as if Eames went into the business of selling components for assembled cars. This would be after he left the Pope Mfg. Co. and before he was associated with Studebaker. It is interesting that he references the Norton Grinding Company. Norton effectively invented cylindrical grinding, a technique that was slow to be adopted in Europe as it was feared the grinding process would leave the surface of the parts with abrasive particles embedded in them. These would likely have been very high quality parts made as accurately as the technology of the time permitted.
  21. I got home last night after about 22 hours of travel - much of it spent waiting at Heathrow. Everything went very smoothly except that my truck won't start having sat in the drive way for a month. It's on the charger now and I'm catching up on emails.
  22. Yes, by all means post a photo. The number of teeth and the diameter is critical as that is what determines the diametrical pitch. If we know the size of the gear it is much easier to find a new one. The gears Terry mentions often have to be modified so it is still a "one-off" machine job but often doesn't require cutting gear teeth. Timing gears don't have to be hardened so that makes the job quite a bit simpler than making transmission gears.
  23. I depends on the size of the gear and the diametrical pitch. I might be able to do it or your friend could use the same source as Harm for the 1903 Cleveland. I believe that was in the UK. It's 7:00 AM as I type this and I'm off in about an hour...I'll be back in the shop tomorrow. There aren't many sources for a one-of gear (short of frightfully expensive) but it's quite likely that there is an off-the-shelf gear that can be modified if it isn't identical.
  24. It's been my most successful research trip and I've been here more than twenty times in the last thirty years. I have a pile of work to get through when I get back just collating and transcribing the material I've found but I am happy to have it. I leave tomorrow morning. It's a long trip back even living on the east coast but I'll have plenty of time to read on the plane and I've my usual pile of books so, aside from the airport, I'm looking forward to the flight.
  25. It's an unusual name, especially with the archaic spelling, and I've come across it twice. The first time was when I edited a book on US Navy small arms and his name came up. The second time was in a very good little book entitled "Horseless Carriage Days" by Hiram Percy Maxim. If you haven't seen Maxim's book you should get it. I believe a reprint is available. The original edition was published posthumously in 1937 so it is pretty rare. Maxim's book is dedicated to Hayden Eames.