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JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. I had a similar experience with a 1910 REO... The corrosion to the shaft is the natural, and unavoidable result of the differing metals involved and the water acting as an electrolyte. The good news is that this takes a very long time...if you replace the shaft with a piece of ordinary steel it will not wear out in your lifetime. But, it is extremely likely that your radiator, and probably the water passages in the block, are partially blocked...the car should not overheat at idle if it ran all day, much less than 15 minutes and the Evans coolant is just a band-aid covering up a mo
  2. Why does the water pump shaft have to be stainless? It wasn't to begin with. Using a good grade of ground carbon steel like 1144 Stressproof would work fine. 99% of the deterioration in water pumps comes from electrolytic corrosion, not wear. The steel shaft lasted 100 years...unless you are planning to live for another 100 years I don't see what the problem is and a steel shaft will take on a proper color in the exposed areas quite rapidly.
  3. I'm inclined to feel that a subtle difference is fine. It's tough to judge from photos on the internet because what we see is largely dependent on our individual computer monitors...they are never accurate unless you are working with sophisticated color correction software and then you are at the mercy of the camera that took the original picture. That said, I like it. and think a fine pinstripe in a contrasting color could really bring out the difference while keeping the elegant quality of a subtle difference I've been giving some thought to the motorcycle restoration I'm going t
  4. That's sage advice. I can't tell you how many times I've made something that had a tiny flaw that really bothered me...two days later I had to look hard to find it. I think it's a curse all of us who do much of our own work suffer from...we want perfection and we know what perfection looks like so we see things no one else will see and, given time, don't even see ourselves.
  5. Today I finally cut the short tapers on the ends of the water pump shafts. I admit that I put this off a few days while I worked on something else... I didn't want to do it until I was relaxed and there were no likely distractions. The first step was setting up the taper. I started with this grinder mandrel and used my offset center and indicator to make sure it was perfectly straight. On the bed of the lathe you can see a 4" gauge block. I set the indicator at zero and a stop at the end of the gauge block. Then removed the gauge block and moved the saddle down exactly
  6. I did the threaded ends of the water pump shaft and the test piece today. The piece that fits on the end of the shaft came in late this afternoon so I had a chance to measure it. It looks as if my original measurements were good – at least good enough to use as the starting point. With the mating piece in hand I can check the fit as I go which is a big help.I will do all the figures over tonight and send them to Mike M so he can check them. I'm pretty sure I have it right but, as I've said before, I don't have implicit faith in my math skills. Not wanting to do that until I've chec
  7. The first step would be to measure them...you'll need a micrometer to get the OD of the male part and a thread gauge. 60-degree thread gauges are cheap and, when working on pre-WWI cars, are essential as this pre-dates the adoption of most of the threads we think of as standard today. An odd tapered thread flare nut is going to be almost impossible to find today and they would not be an easy thing to make as the tap needed will be even more rare than the nut. What sort of fitting does the nut attach to? It may well have a 1/8 NPT thread on one side and the thread for the flare nut on the other
  8. There is an old rumor – perhaps apocryphal – that some of the Springfield-made parts proved to be better than the English ones. The original supervisory personnel at Springfield were sent by the parent company so they were in a position to know. (One was Eric Platford who had been one of the apprentices that worked with Henry Royce on his first car.) While RR wanted it known the cars were "Made in America" they certainly did not want to admit that the Americans did some things better than they did. One part I remember being mentioned was valve springs. Supposedly, when tested, the American sp
  9. There is hardly a more inappropriate material to use...you'd be better off with some of the old fashioned "muffler cement" but that doesn't work either. The original manifold on the RR I repaired was a complicated and poorly designed casting. Only about 700 of the cars were built and all the remaining spare parts were destroyed in the only German bomber attack to actually hit the RR plant. The manifold was literally held together with muffler cement, tin cans and hose clamps.
  10. Edinmass posted it a few months ago... look through the thread on the 1903 Cleveland. It came up in the discussion of repairing cracks in the block of that car. In the end the gentleman who is restoring the Cleveland did it himself but he's very good and he's in the Netherlands so shipping it to Massachusetts was a major undertaking. The problem with an engine or parts car is that there is a good chance the manifold is no better...though if you did go that route it would be critical to get the faces planed perfectly flat before installing it...and, (though you probably know this) B
  11. I did some experiments this morning to devise a better technique for cutting the short taper on the end of the water pump shaft. They seemed to work although thus far none have been perfect. Tapers are an interesting problem...in theory they are easy but in practice cutting an ACCURATE taper is not easily done, especially when you are trying to match something that uses what today would be considered an unusual taper and you don't have the original prints to look at. Even the old machinist's books talk about doing it several times and adjusting the measurements to get a proper fit. I suspect t
  12. Ed is spot on. The problem with welding exhaust manifolds is that all the issues that come with welding cast iron (which is never easy) are magnified by the heating and cooling cycles. By now, the actual chemical composition of the iron has changed. As a temporary repair I might try brazing it but that would call for making a fixture to hold it perfectly flat and the broken faces would have to be antiseptically clean. You can't do it on the car and it's probably warped in any case. I suspect that a lot of the cracked manifolds are the result of warping putting immense stress on the casting. T
  13. When I get the piece from Ed I'll take he measurements again and send them to you. Then we can both work out the numbers and if they match we should be right on. I always have second thoughts about figures...though I have to admit that I don't often get them terribly wrong. I hack sawed the chain of the Royal Enfield today in the hope of taking the wheels off as it will have to be carried out of the place it's in. I doubt I'd ever get the wheels to turn because the brakes must be rusted stuck. I probably shouldn't be taking on another project but I'm an addict. I'm going to do this
  14. It turns out that turning between centers isn't practical in this application because the overall length of the work piece (it's 11-1/8" for the real shaft) effects the offset and there are limits to how much you can safely offset a piece. So, I've ordered an electronic edge finder and I'll use the "Mike McCartney method" to set up the compound. The taper itself is only about .760 long. The trigonometry Mike demonstrated when he made his C5 adapter should make this relatively straight forward. Thanks Mike! The center turning fixture is perfect for making the B&S 10
  15. That engine was introduced in 1910 and discontinued about 1925. It was first used in the Model R, then "Reo the Fifth" (in 1912) and later in the Speedwagon. Most of the engine parts are interchangeable right to the end...I once used the Northeast generator/distributor unit from one of those on my 1910 R. The bracket that held the generator just bolted on in place of the magneto bracket. There have been at least two people on this forum looking for engine parts in the last year or two.
  16. Great. That will make it much easier to get it right. I didn't realize the generator wasn't on the car. With that in hand I can finish the shafts. j
  17. Every so often I run into a problem that really requires some thought and today was one of those days. I set up the test pump shaft to cut the taper. You can cut a taper by offsetting the tail stock but that often isn't particularly accurate and its such a PIA to get it straight in the first place that I am extremely reluctant it mess with it when it's right on. I made this this fixture from a boring head. In theory I can adjust the offset very accurately and I was gratified to see that it worked exactly as planned. I used the indicator to make certain the piece was pe
  18. I has to from from the left if you are going to use the gear train. There will be a bit of a learning curve here but I've ordered a copy of the B&S treatise on gearing - I already have "Formulas in Gearing" which just about makes my head spin. It's no different from learning to thread...after I've done it a few times I'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
  19. I still have my box of RR tools for the Ghost & PI...chances are I'll never use them again but you can never tell.
  20. I was told it weighs 87 lbs. so it's about the same weight as my big lathe chuck. If it were much heavier I'd find it a chore to shift at the end of the day. This is a good example of a tool you will only use once in a while and you may go years without using it at all but when you need it, nothing else will do the job. I think all of us who fix old (i.e. really old cars) know all about that.
  21. I drove to rural eastern Connecticut this morning to pick this up...the Brown & Sharpe Universal Dividing Head. The gentleman who sold it thought it dated from the 1950s and was fairly surprised when I told him it was more like the 1890s. This was such a good design that if you do an ebay search on "dividing head" you'll find numerous copies, all of this B&S type. It will need some work and I may have to dismantle it to get the dried grease and other grunge out. There are also several bits missing but as far as I know, everything that isn't there is something I can make.
  22. Yes... obviously it has to. The wall thickness is 5/16. I'll use 5/16 set screws and the notches in the shaft will bring the top to just below the surface.
  23. With the OD of the gear and the area that rides in the bushing done I had to trim the ends to match the measurements I'd taken. This involved taking about .065 off the front and back of the piece. The front was relatively easy. I also put the chamfer on the edges. Holding the piece to do the other end proved easier than I'd expected...I used the hex collet to hold it from the screwed-in projection. Both of them trimmed. One came out .002 short but that is hardly measurable. I then drilled and ta
  24. I didn't get my license until I was 18...I never took a "driver-ed" course.
  25. It's actually a long time favorite of mine, to the extent of finding the period articles about it in Motor and Horseless Age. I even entertained the fantasy of replicating the 4-cylinder engine and spent some time trying to think of a way to make the copper water jackets. I like the design of the engine and the use of separate water jackets brings it just into the realm of possibility. But, I won't live long enough to do all the things I've thought of.
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