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JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. I made the hollow shoulder screw for the driven dividing head gears to rotate on. The problem here is that the gears have to be mounted on a keyed sleeve so that they rotate together and, since there is no access to the sleeve when it's assembled, it has to be oiled from the inside. I bored the sleeve out to 5/8" (it was 1/2") and then made the fat end of the shoulder bolt and drilled it 5/16" through the center. Then both ends were threaded 3/8-16. The tap won't go all the way through so this had to be done by flipping the piece around. I then
  2. That may be the case but I can't say I've met many people of any age that grasp the complexity of making things. I'd go so far as to say that only people who do that, and it may be to make anything, have an inkling of what can be involved. That said, the demise of manufacturing in this country has certainly exacerbated that problem.
  3. Boy, do I agree with that. Quantity and quality are not the same thing although they are frequently confused... As a society, we tend to conflate wealth with expertise. I'm sure that gentleman has plenty of expertise making money but that doesn't mean he has a "great" collection. What he has is a large collection and it isn't the same thing. My real collecting interest is not cars – it's 18th and very early 19th century arms (mostly English and American). I started when I was 12 so I've been at it for 57 years now. I've also edited a large number of books (I forget how many) o
  4. I would say the printed ads are invaluable. The internet is wildly overrated in this...99% of what you will find there is reproduced at far too low a resolution to be the slightest bit useful for details...keep in mind that computer resolution is 72 dots per inch...the minimal print resolution for digitized images is 300 dots per inch. Most of those ads are period half-tones or line drawings...the halftones are barely reproducible with the best equipment and, even there, you are going to get what's called a "moray" pattern in the dots. Very few people do a professional job of reproducing them
  5. I wonder if it isn't Dr Goodman's' car. (He must be long gone now.) If it is, it's an 8 Liter and began life as a big closed car. Virtually all of those have been given sporting bodies by now and most have been shortened. I remember being told the shop that shortened his car made an error and removed more chassis than he intended...he went from a long chassis to the shortest 8 liter in existence. In any case, vintage Bentley people have never adhered to the "as it came from the factory" idea. Most, if not all, embrace all sorts of modifications not the least of which is creating a 3 — 4-1/2, a
  6. No. It just unscrewed. It needs to be lubricated better, something I didn't think of because it turns so slowly. I'll make a hollow bolt with an oil hole and that should fix everything.
  7. The table of the mill set for the 20-degree angle of the gear teeth. This is what is called a "universal" mill. It was intended as a tool room machine rather than a production machine. Most mills don't have the swiveling table and this is actually the first time I've used it. I'd like to know what a machine like this cost new. I expect it was more than most cars - perhaps a lot more. I finished the second test gear and started cutting the teeth. Everything was going just fine until the two intermediate gears on the dividing head fell off. It lo
  8. Yes...when I opened my garage/restoraton shop, which was close to 40 years ago, there were multiple machine shops in the area. The demise of real manufacturing and the capitol expense of purchasing the latest computer driven machines has killed most of them although I know of a few that survive and one or two that are thriving but here we find owners who have a lot of imagination, which isn't terribly common. There is definitely room for a few shops that will do specialized, one off work but no one wants to work for the relative wages their grandfather made - and why should they. In my case, I
  9. This is the formula for calculating the lead... Once you have the lead, you go to the lead tables which will tell you which gears go on the dividing head. Most, but not all, dividing heads have a 40:1 reduction. That was standard for Brown & Sharpe and I use the tables in the B&S manual, "Practical Treatise on Gearing" (1906 edition), where you select the gear train that will give you a lead closest to the theoretical number. In this case it is 22.93 so the difference is .033 meaning that my lead is 33 thousandths shorter than the perfect theoretical number...wh
  10. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. Yes, Gary's gear meshed perfectly.
  11. I finished the second test blank this morning but then decided I had half of the surface of the original one that hadn't been touched so why not see if I could cut the teeth to the full depth. The biggest value to this, aside from looking at the finished piece is to work out a sequence of operations that can be followed on the finished piece. Rather than each tooth to a given depth and go on to the next,,,rotating the gear several times, I decided to do each tooth to the finished depth. This minimizes the number of times I have to rotate the handle on the dividing head.
  12. No.. but the gentleman who has them is a long-time friend and I know he's been very busy with other work. He's just about to quit doing outside work so I expect I'll see them soon. I did tell him I was in no hurry and he's been a big help with advice on how to do things - I was on the phone with him yesterday talking about this job.
  13. He'd be welcome any time...we've spoken about that before but lets make sure I've got it working correctly!
  14. And, the math involved is way beyond my capacity. Fortunately, this was all figured out at the beginning of the 20th century and there are published tables that tell you what gears to use to get a specific lead.
  15. I'll try to explain it...but keep in mind that until a few weeks ago I didn't understand what was involved. Think of the gear teeth as a giant screw thread. The teeth aren't actually straight although this isn't immediately obvious when you look at the gear. They twist slightly. The amount of twist is called the "lead" and it is a function of the number of teeth, the diametrical pitch (DP) and the helix angle of the teeth. This gear has a DP of 8, 20 teeth and a helix of 20-degrees. The lead is something like 23 inches...(I forget the exact number) so each tooth would make one turn
  16. Today I reached the moment of truth on in cutting the spiral gear. I added the two additional gears to the gear train and addressed a couple of minor issues with the dividing head. And took a test cut...it wasn't right and I couldn't see why but a friend stopped in and made a suggestion which proved to be the answer. There are times when you can't see the nose on your face...I've often asked people who knew nothing about what I was doing (my late father was one) to look at the job and see if anything didn't look right. Quite often, they see something I'd missed complet
  17. Thanks Ed. I'll look forward to that. I expect there will be a lot of adjustment after it actually makes engine noises.
  18. The 1910 Mitchell was slightly more than half the price of the 1909 but wasn't smaller. It was a drastic attempt to appeal to a larger market. I attribute most of the cut corners in the production of my car to that. You can't built a car of the same size, with roughly the same umber of parts for half the price unless you make some compromises and it looks to me as if they made lots of them. The new, cheaper design must have had a lot of problems too because it was only used for two years, 1910 and 1911. In 1912 the engine was completely redesigned again...so the '10-'11 cars are a design unto
  19. Completely different engine...I don't know about the chassis parts. I have a set of jugs and one valve cage for one but nothing interchanges. The parts came with mine...All the jugs have cracked water jackets and one has a piston stuck in it but if someone needed them they could be saved and used. In any case, "they are too good to throw away" and don't take up much room so they'll sit until I find someone who needs them.
  20. It's going to need more than some Diamond tires. What is it? I looks as if it may be an earlier Mitchell but I've never seen one and I'm too lazy to look through my old MoToR magazines for an ad.
  21. The "F" on the front of the radiator has nothing to do with the make. It is almost certainly someone's initial. That was a popular accessory at the time...you see them most often on radiator caps but the auto accessory suppliers offered several different kinds, almost always in "Old English" letters.
  22. I think I'd be more concerned to put an air filter on the car, if that is doable. The dust and grit that got sucked in with the air was far more damaging than anything else. If you change the oil regularly and don't let it get terribly dirty I doubt an oil filter will do much.
  23. To deal with the fact that the test gear blank is too close to the dividing head I made this mandrel. It's actually a piece of the feed rod from a long dismantled lathe...a piece of 3/4" shaft with a key way. Threaded 3/4-16 on one end for a nut. And a key way broached in the blank. This setup approximates the water pump shaft. It's critical that the blank be held tight because if it were to move, the teeth would be ruined. There is a set screw collar on the shaft for the nut to tighten everything against.
  24. That is Ralph Stein. The car was a Packard roadster he bought from ??? (I've forgotten the name) but he worked for Marcellus Hartley Dodge, the grandson of Marcellus Hartley, a principal of Schuyler, Hartley & Graham - the military goods dealer. Hartley's business was extremely successful...in 1888 he bought the Remington Arms Company and was also the owner of Union Metallic Cartridge. He also founded an electric company that he sold to George Westinghouse. The grandson merged the two companies in 1912 resulting in Remington/UMC. That picture, and a description of the car can b
  25. I think your instincts are good on that one...they are rarely as bad as they look. Most of the critical surfaces are cast iron which rusts at a far slower rate than steel and almost never rusts very deep unless it's in constant contact with water... this is why steel water jackets rust out while engine blocks rarely do.
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