JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. Yes...it's an old expression. We still have 10d nails...
  2. Thanks Ted. I pressed on with the threaded inserts...this is one of those jobs that takes time and hardly shows at all when it's done. I would have bought them if they were available. Both of my two "old car" friends from my youth visited yesterday, one to make something and the other to drill and tap a hole in a Corvair transaxle for a drain plug so I didn't quite finish threading the inside of the inserts until this morning. The inserts for the sump...in keeping with my one superstition I made an extra insert because if I have it, I won't need it. Now I'll make 12 more for the rod caps. Those will be 9/16-18 OD and 7/16-14 ID.
  3. Wow Jeff, You've come a very long way in a very short time from that first lathe. With a few more bits & pieces you'll be able to repair just about anything.
  4. Thank you... I'm still feeling the after effects of jet lag. I didn't bother me in the past but the older I get, the more it leaves me completely knackered. While waiting for the die I need I decided to make the threaded inserts for the sump and the studs that will secure the connecting rod caps. I need 30 of these, 18 for the sump and 12 for the rod caps. It isn't a difficult job but since I have to make them one at the time, it is tedious. Neverrtheless, it's going faster than it did in the past since I've finally worked out a system. The first step is to drill the rod for the internal thread and thread it. Then it's cut off... It is easy to do but since I'm constantly changing tools, and got called away for a couple of other small jobs I only got 10 made today.
  5. I've long been of the opinion that rebuilding antique machine tools is much better practice for working on brass cars than working on modern cars is. They have a great deal in common, not the least of which is that most parts are "machined". Ironically, machine tools are much more demanding than 90 percent of any car where precision is required so if you can get old machines up and running you can probably handle almost all early car work.
  6. This morning I went back to some finishing touches on the water pump. The first step was to lightly lap the shaft and the extension that will hold the drive gear in place with everything tightened up. I did this with Time Saver lapping compound because it degrades, making it nowhere near as important to get every bit of the residue out which, in this case would be impossible without removing the bearings. Time Saver is a powder that you mix with light oil. I used an old veterinary syringe to force it into the bearings through the grease holes and fitted the hand wheel I made for my unsuccessful radius turning tool to turn the shaft. While I was away, I bought this grease cup. This will be made into a tool to force grease into the front bearing. I have to remove the threaded portion. Unfortunately, the threaded area for the cap is raised so I can't easily grip it in the chuck. The body of the grease cup is 1-1/4" in diameter so I put a piece of 1-1/4" ground stock in the chuck and indicated it. Then loosened two of the jaws and replaced it with the grease cup pushed far enough back so that the jaws don't touch the threads. The pipe threads were turned off, after which it was drilled and reamed to 3/8" I need to make an extension so that when it is screwed in it will clear the OD of the pump. I also need to thread one end 3/8-16 and discovered that my only die is too big for my die holder. I ordered one and will get back to this when it arrives. The extension will be soldered into the grease cup. The whole thing is a bit awkward but not really a problem because I doubt the pump will need to be greased more than a two or three times a year. I intend to include running board tool boxes fitted for the special tools I've made for the car...there are several others as well.
  7. The battery was up in half an hour and I'm now back in the shop having one of those "what do I do next" moments. But, I will have more tonight even if it isn't much. j
  8. It looks as if Eames went into the business of selling components for assembled cars. This would be after he left the Pope Mfg. Co. and before he was associated with Studebaker. It is interesting that he references the Norton Grinding Company. Norton effectively invented cylindrical grinding, a technique that was slow to be adopted in Europe as it was feared the grinding process would leave the surface of the parts with abrasive particles embedded in them. These would likely have been very high quality parts made as accurately as the technology of the time permitted.
  9. I got home last night after about 22 hours of travel - much of it spent waiting at Heathrow. Everything went very smoothly except that my truck won't start having sat in the drive way for a month. It's on the charger now and I'm catching up on emails.
  10. Yes, by all means post a photo. The number of teeth and the diameter is critical as that is what determines the diametrical pitch. If we know the size of the gear it is much easier to find a new one. The gears Terry mentions often have to be modified so it is still a "one-off" machine job but often doesn't require cutting gear teeth. Timing gears don't have to be hardened so that makes the job quite a bit simpler than making transmission gears.
  11. I depends on the size of the gear and the diametrical pitch. I might be able to do it or your friend could use the same source as Harm for the 1903 Cleveland. I believe that was in the UK. It's 7:00 AM as I type this and I'm off in about an hour...I'll be back in the shop tomorrow. There aren't many sources for a one-of gear (short of frightfully expensive) but it's quite likely that there is an off-the-shelf gear that can be modified if it isn't identical.
  12. It's been my most successful research trip and I've been here more than twenty times in the last thirty years. I have a pile of work to get through when I get back just collating and transcribing the material I've found but I am happy to have it. I leave tomorrow morning. It's a long trip back even living on the east coast but I'll have plenty of time to read on the plane and I've my usual pile of books so, aside from the airport, I'm looking forward to the flight.
  13. It's an unusual name, especially with the archaic spelling, and I've come across it twice. The first time was when I edited a book on US Navy small arms and his name came up. The second time was in a very good little book entitled "Horseless Carriage Days" by Hiram Percy Maxim. If you haven't seen Maxim's book you should get it. I believe a reprint is available. The original edition was published posthumously in 1937 so it is pretty rare. Maxim's book is dedicated to Hayden Eames.
  14. Hayden Eames (pronounced "Ames"...the "E" is silent. It is a very old name in Massachusetts) was an ex-US Navy ordinance officer. He inspected Colt revolvers for the navy (his initials can be found on the M1899 Colt Navy revolver) and was later assigned to the Bridgeport Projectile Company where he became very friendly with Hiram Percy Maxim. When he left the Navy he went to work for Col. Pope of Columbia Bicycle (and Pope Hartford, Pope Toledo etc.). He introduced Maxim to Pope and his general manager. Maixm (who was the son of Hiram Maxim, inventor of the Maxim gun) became the chief automotive designer for Pope. Eames later went to work for Studebaker and was instrumental in Studebaker's purchase of EMF. He was a very important, if little known, player in the early American Auto industry.
  15. Your' are more incorrigible than I am Jeff but it's a good find. In addition to being able to sharpen cutters and drills I suspect it will be useful for things it was never intended for. I've used my valve grinder for some odd things but that looks a good deal more useful.
  16. That is an extremely common repair and doesn't generally cause problems. I have done it myself with a one-cylinder Cadillac. But, I don't know the one-cylinder REO engine so, were it my car, I'd certainly look at it and, if possible, balance it.
  17. Keep in mind that dynamic balancing was not invented in 1909. It doesn't appear until much later. Auto engineers understood the value of precise balancing much earlier but the only effective way to accomplish it was to make certain that the weight of the reciprocating parts was equal. I am not certain how this works out in a one-cylinder engine where there are no counterbalancing weights on the crankshaft. The one-cylinder engines I've worked on (not many) did not have any facility for balancing. That said, I suspect that you are more likely to have a problem with flywheel balancing or other parts like the transmission. I'm assuming the 1909 REO has a planetary transmission but I'd look at parts other than the engine first. Dynamically balancing the crankshaft will do no harm and will likely make some improvement but I'm not sure it will solve the problem is the imbalance is pronounced.
  18. Unless someone in recent times has created them, this is something you are not likely to find. It is unlikely that contemporary plans existed outside the factory. The "shop manual" as we know it is a much later invention. The maker would have presumed that anyone taking an engine apart knew what they were doing and, to an extent, they would have been correct because these early engines are very simple. Today, many people attempting this work have never seen the inside of a brass-era engine. Despite the advances in technology, in an odd sense most people today are less qualified to work on them than the village blacksmith was in 1909. Having done this sort of work...go slowly and carefully. It is easy to take a ton of digital pictures as you go. If something is difficult to take apart that is because you aren't doing it right. Look for hidden pins holding things together. Do not assume that the way it comes apart is the way it goes together unless the engine has never been apart. People made mistakes many years ago just as they do today. And...when you get it apart post some photos and ask how you might go about repairing things. There are several very experienced brass car enthusiasts here, with years of practical experience, probably more than you are likely to meet anywhere else.
  19. It's an odd thing to say for a guy who is in the habit of making almost everything but I'm always thrilled when I can buy an original part in extremely good condition. e-bay lunacy excepted, it is always a good buy.
  20. I have been told by a very prominent restorer of high-end brass cars (who I don't feel free to name) that the salient point is condition, not age. Wood shrinks across the grain, not in the direction of the grain so while it may be necessary to shim the spokes outward from the hub to tighten them, if they are entirely sound they are no weaker when they are 100 years old than they were when new.
  21. I agree. I am very reluctant to do anything to original parts that cannot be reversed and only do it when there is no practical alternative. A tapered thread plug should be tight enough to hold without anything on it. There is a protocol for using tapered taps. I think it is to stop about 5 threads from the end. However, this is for pipe fitting. When I use them to plug holes I generally go deeper so that the threaded area will be flush with the surface. It probably doesn't make any difference in this case but I'd use a hex or square socket plug and try to get it flush with the face of the flange.
  22. Chances are the stains are there because the wheels were painted. You don't say how early the car is but "natural" spokes are probably a product of the late 20s and 30s. Prior to that virtually all wheels were painted and the chances are that most were painted right up to the end of their use. Varnished spokes on a brass-era car are likely never appropriate. (I say "likely" because I'm judging from period photographs, never having seen any of these cars when they were in daily use. I've yet to see a photo of a pre-1925 car with wood wheels that looked as if the wheels were varnished.)
  23. The castings would be a challenge but I confess to have thought about it. It would certainly be a challenge but I'd wonder if I'll live long enough to finish it.
  24. Harm, is the LH thread a problem? I'm guessing here but if your lathe isn't set up for Imperial threads (and that is what it has) I'd be happy to make you a nut.