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ROD W

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Everything posted by ROD W

  1. Check this out in the Buy/Sell section.
  2. Iowa cyclone, What a great 1918 Buick and in amazing condition. The sedans are certainly rare. I wouldn,t like to try and put a price on your car. Rarity does not always equate to a high dollar value. Tourers are more popular than the sedans in this period of car, but due to the fact that so few of this model were manufactured and less than a handful survive, I am sure there is somebody out there who would love to have this car in their collection. As Frazer said, put this in the pre war section of this Forum, to get more replys.
  3. Wow, What a find. Hubert is right being a 1926/27, But I would say a 27 as it has the one piece windscreen. It doesn,t look like it needs much restoration to me. A good clean, get the engine going and your away. Probably drop the pan, remove the sludge in the bottom, clean the oil pick up. Clean out the fuel tank and fuel lines, and then your away. Post some more photo,s and don,t forget to keep us informed on your new purchase.
  4. The gearbox looks the same as this one, which has BOHNALITE written on it. A Google search found this was The Bohn Aluminum and Brass Corporation who made aluminium and brass specialty castings for Packard and other auto companies. Also sponsored the Bohnalite Special which raced in the 1934 Indy 500. using Bohnalite cylinder heads and pistons.
  5. A Google search found it was a company making Brass and Aluminium parts for a number of other company,s. Bohn Aluminum & Brass Corporation
  6. Morgan, What sort of price would you be looking at for one that isn,t working. I wouldn,t mind having a clock in the dash. I only have a clock in the rear view mirror.
  7. I have never even seen those before,? What material are they made of.
  8. Gavin, Thanks for the update. We all love to see how a restoration is progressing. In an earlier post, I could see a round petrol tank. This is probably out of a later 4 cylinder car as the 6,s had an oval tank.
  9. Philip, New coil showing 17k on the secondary and 1.2 ohm on the primary. Ensure you get a coil that says with resistor as this gets the primary resistance down to the 1.5 ohms which is suitable for a 6 volt system. My 1920 Buick would idle nicely, but run very poorly and smoked on higher revs. Checking the secondary resistance and couldn,t even get a reading. Surprised the car even ran.
  10. On a 6 volt coil the primary winding should be reading 1.5 ohms when set at 200. The secondary should be reading from 4000 - 10,000 when set at the 20k
  11. These mailbox coils have the resistor at the front of the coil. The resistor limits the current flowing through the coil when the points are closed so the coil will not get too hot. In this coil, the resistor is broken and a external ballast resistor has been added. If a newer coil is used, ensure there is a ballast resistor in place.
  12. Thanks Terry, I just use the name that sounds appropriate at the time. I should look up the manual for the proper name.
  13. Even though the 1915 has the starter commutator at the back of the s/g and the generator commutator at the front of the s/g it still has a similar set up to engage the starter gear and the starter brush. Also check that the one way clutch is actually working. Turning in one direction and locking when turned in the opposite direction.
  14. On removing the screw, found it does not allow for adjustment but a location pin to align the lever in the correct position. But if this pin has come out or is loose it would allow the lever to slide on the shaft.
  15. Mark, On the 1920 and I feel the 1915 would be similar, there is adjustment on the shaft that engages the starter gear, with a lock nut. Maybe the locknut is loose and the lever is sliding on the shaft. There is also a small amount of adjustment on the shaft that engages the starter brushes. This lever simultainiously engages the starter gear and the starter brushes.
  16. I know a number of people with pre 1925 Buicks, on this Forum have done a lot of work on their starter/ generators and have a good knowledge of there workings, But I would like to give a step by step explanation of the S/G for those who find them a bit of a mystery. I am not an auto electrician, but have been lucky enough to be able to play around with these S/G for close on fifty years. My experience has been on the S/G from the late teens and early 20,s, so the earlier one,s starting in 1913/14, will look slightly different but function in the same way. I will include a bit of phy
  17. Hugh, I will order a set. Can you ask if there is asbestos in them. If there is I couldn,t get them into Aust. Rod
  18. Kennybubs, That,s a 2010 posting, but it looks a pretty nice cap
  19. Larry, No I didn,t get a round disc with it. Size and photo would be appreciated.
  20. Received my Buffum Valve Remover today, so now I can throw away the crowbar
  21. Budd, I have seen top hold down clamps, cap wrenches and service manuals on Ebay recently. Don,t know if 23 had the clamp type hold down or the small rest type. Mine are 7 inches long on my 1920. Brian H should be able to send you a photo of his and the size. Buick Heritage Alliance also sell the manuals, but a reliable sauce has told us it can take 3 - 4 weeks.
  22. Here,s a windsceen on Ebay. Looks like a Master, $350. In Vintage Car and truck Parts, Accessories
  23. Gene, It was a 1925 standard Buick. Photo taken in 1970. A friend from school helped me get it running. He had a 1924 Dodge and showed me how to tune the car, being more mechanically minded than me. The starter didn,t work so always needed starting by hand. It would only start when the engine was cold. So it spent many nights down the back paddocks.
  24. Kyle, The main difference between the earlier S/G pre 1921, and the later 22 - 25 is the orientation of the armature and commutators. The earlier had the commutators on the distributor side of the s/g, where as the later had the commutators at the back of the s/g ( much easier to get to )
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