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ROD W

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Everything posted by ROD W

  1. Will be interesting to see what she looks like when all that dust is removed. Paint looks too good to me to be original. Possibly a 1950 - 60,s restoration ( red water pump and fan hub ) When I got my 1920 roadster it was running with two bent push rods. I guess they wanted to get the car running for selling. The 1918 four cylinder is a model E 34. Hope she,s the right girl for you.?
  2. Mine also has the capacitor/condenser on the outside of the distributor.
  3. Don, My Manual for the Master says to keep the clutch well lubricated ( this is referring to the flywheel reduction clutch ) to prevent jamming. But there are no specific oiling points for this clutch. There are oiling points for the shafts, and a grease nipple number 10 for the shaft that the overrunning clutch ( Thanks Terry )? runs on. Hopefully oil finds its way onto the clutch. It is not a simple operation to remove this clutch to repack with grease. Don,t over oil, you don,t want it on the clutch plates. The standard is slightly different to the master. There is an oiler for the front s/g bearing, I think this also oils the clutch. Others jump in if I,m wrong here.
  4. Ensure the brushes are making good contact with the small commutator
  5. Mr Lucky, Good to here your 1913 is running well. I don,t have a carburetor for my 1912 201 cu in engine . There was a Model O Schebler on Ebay a while back, but as it was in poor condition I did not bid on it which I regret as it is the only Model O I have seen for sale. Plenty of Model R,s. What model Marvel is suitable for the 201 engine. Can you post some pics. Rod
  6. I agree. It was the same story with this car . Only difference is this green one is a fairly new restoration. On the market a few years back for 35k now back on the market for 40k. I also remember seeing that cream car on the market in the past. Can,t remember how long ago
  7. Love the car . Doesn,t look factory to me, but I,m no authority on 1916. Terry out Doo-Dah way should know the answer to this one. Looks like it also has poorly painted wheel stripes just to be picky.
  8. Bubba, You would wonder why somebody would spend so much on a restoration as in that Sagebrush green 25 and then paint on those poorly done stripes.. Well painted wheel stripes really enhance the look of the car. Larry, When you say the top/hood is in the 24 style. How does it differ to the 25, 26
  9. I prefer the slightly lighter blue than the nearly black blue. The colour of this 26-48 is what I think of as Cobolt Blue. Cobolt Blue is what I was originally thinking of for my 25-55, but as the 20 roadster is in dark blue I thought I might go for a different colour. 24-55,s were done in Maroon such as this 23 which looks spectacular Don, What is the story or the 65 on your car. It would be a petty to lose the history, but white doesn,t enhance the qualities of a Buick. After seeing the 25-55 in the darker green for the top and the lighter green sides I prefer this to the lighter Sagebrush green of the car posted by Larry ( Thanks Larry for your PM) Is the car in the black and white photo the sagebrush green car?
  10. Have been undecided what colour to paint my Sport Touring. The chart says Sagebrush Green. Found a photo of this 25 Master that I think looks pretty nice. Is this sagebrush Green.
  11. Here,s a 1925 Standard for sale on Long island craigslist. Says $22, Best offer. California top. Looks very complete. In garage for 35 years. I wonder what sort of price he is thinking of. Phone 718 598 1954
  12. There has been a large range of prices for 1913 Buick models 30, 31 and 1913 McLaughlins. Ranging from $64,000 to $13,500 1 Been on the market for 64 K for a long time, can,t see it selling at that price. 2 McLaughlin at 35K 3 Roadster for 25k many things looked incorrect, but looked very nice. 4 13 1/2 k Wish I had the money to get this one. But for me shipping costs double the price. 5 McLaughlin 13 1/2 K was on the market for quite a time. 6 McLaughlin Will be interested to see what this goes for. Asked the auctioneers for more information but no reply There have been other models for sale but have not kept a record of price
  13. The Gabriel Snubbers are on the rear axle on my car
  14. That was Buick,s most expensive car in 1923 at $2195. Compared to the cheapest 4 cylinder roadster at $865
  15. Great Photo. I like the way all the cars a facing the large windows, with the benches along the windows for the light, and what about the row of new cars at the back.
  16. This is on the left side of the spare wheel carrier on a 22 - 48
  17. Worked picking oranges over christmas at $1 per hour. Made $250 which was the price of the car, when I was 17. Taking my father for a drive.
  18. Ron, Some photo,s please
  19. Kyle, Here,s page 165
  20. That car has been for sale a few times over the last ten years. I was enquiring about buying it when it first came up for sale, but the seller wasn,t interested. Can,t remember what price it was then.
  21. Here,s the workshop manual
  22. Brenden These engines are 90 years old. Some engines I have pulled apart, the oil in the sump was a thick sludge and the oil pump screen was completely blocked with sludge. Use an oil of the correct grade. there has been much discussion on oils on this forum. Ensure the cam rollers/lifters are not worn. Check on previous threads on oil pump refurbishment, The shafts become worn and wear occurs on the bottom plate. It has been a long time since I have done an engine rebuild, but others on this forum are rebuilding there engines at the present. A mob in Bulimba rebuilt a 25 standard engine for me 30 years ago use aluminium pistons from EGGE, but they probably aren,t there any more. Will have to catch up some time.
  23. Barry You did not answer Taylormade question, how long ago was it running fine. If it was running well and then sat for a period of time, and now will not start. I do not feel as though the compression is the problem regarding why it will not start. If you are getting a good spark at the plugs, it should be attempting to fire when fuel is put down the jugs. Double check that number 1 piston is on the firing stroke ( both valves closed ) when the rotor is under the contact to number 1 lead. Did you remove the distributor. Maybe the timing is out. I would look at all electricals before removing the head. Try another coil.
  24. If your getting a spark at both the points and the plugs. Ensure you have the leads going to the correct plugs. The rotor turns in a clockwise direction.
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