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Everything posted by ROD W

  1. Volucer Look in multiple craigslist, good restoration projects regularly come up. It can be accessed through Buick Buy/Sell top entry
  2. ROD W

    1918 tyres

    JB the body is a full restoration, but there is a E-46 body in Inglis Florida. No coupe,s were imported into Australia, so it would make a very interesting restoration. From the photo,s it looks like there is bad pitting rust in the rear section of the body around the trunk lid. Is there anybody in the Inglis area that could have a look at this coupe body. The bottom of the cowl and under the doors is rusted out but these are easy to replace. Rod
  3. ROD W

    1918 tyres

    Thanks everybody. It looks like these are smaller wheels than were normally on 1918 tourer 118" wheelbase. Maybe at some time the wheels were changed over because they could not get the correct tyres.
  4. Am interested in a 1918 Buick tourer that has 5.00 x 23" tyres. Seventy Years of Buick says the 118" wheelbase cars have 34 x 4" tyres. Are these the right size wheels for the car. Rod
  5. I have the same problem on both my 1920 and 25. I turn the vacuum tank off to stop the car, that way I don,t forget to close it and come back later with fuel everywhere which as silerghost said, a real fire hazard. I,ve tried adjusting the float, reseating the needle etc, etc, I think the needle and seat only have to be a tiny bit off centre and they leak. My carby was rebuilt, and still the problem. there is side play in the pin that holds the float and needle, maybe a shim to stop that side play would work, as long as it doesn,t prevent free movement.
  6. If the vacuum tank is full, the motor should run for about ten minutes. If your only getting a couple of minutes running, its only running on fuel in the carburetor bowl. when I turn off the vacuum tank mine runs for a minute or so. Sounds like fuel isn,t draining properly from vacuum tank
  7. Peter Most people use the original wood as patterns for making their new wooden frame. Most of what was said in the thread, 1926 floor plan is the same for the 1919. The 1918,1919 and 1920 six cylinder roadsters were all on the 118" Wheel base chassis so I think the bodies were the same. 1921 had a different body shape. Rod
  8. Chris The seven passenger had a 124' wheel base. Th 5 passenger had a 118' wheel base. Also the front seat on the 7 passenger was straight. Yours looks like a 5 seater Model E-45 Touring, if there are no small folding done seats in the rear. Rod
  9. Peter. Start your own Thread, you will get more reply,s. Go into Buick- Pre War and click onto New Thread
  10. Phil The chassis number on my 25 is on left hand side behind front wheel. Riveted to chassis See photo.
  11. Thanks Everybody, I have the locking nuts with Ash wheels Detroit on them. Some are bronze and others are aluminium . Also have four good 21" wheels and a number of 22"wheels in not so good condition, pitting on inside of rim. The rear axle I have has different brake,s to the one,s on the car.
  12. Picked up wire wheels and axlse,s for a 1925 master Buick, but not all of the wheels are the same. Some with low central hubs and others with raised hubs. Also the brake mechanism,s are different on the two axlse,s. See photo,s. These are both different to the brakes on my 1925 master. I have wooden wheels on my car, thinking of changing over to the wire wheels. Any advice. Rod
  13. Bernie Buick had the same box behind the front seat in their Opera coupe Rod
  14. John These fan hubs run in an oil bath. They probably wore out when the oil wasn,t replaced. 30 years ago I replaced one with a roller bearing that fitted over the shaft, and braissed a tube for it to run in to the fan driven pulley assembly. Never leaked oil after that. Rod
  15. Clint That frame/chassis number fits into the 1923 range. 4 cylinder 826497 - 1060178 6 cylinder 879623 - 1064325 916420 looks like about the middle of the 1923 range but Dave Corbin will be able to tell you exactly A plaque on the fire wall will tell you the model eg 6cylinder tourer model 23-45 Rod
  16. ROD W

    1920 Buick

    John The engine number is 702668 but I was not able to find the Chassis/ frame number, must have been removed at some time. This places the engine towards the end of 1920. The previous owner who baught the car in about 1980 said it came from Melbourne Australia and was originaly a tourer before the sedan body was built on it in 1925-26. This sounds right, as the body construction looks more middle to late 20,s than early 20,s. Also it has 21 inch wheels. Attached is photo of where car was originaly purchased, sombody in Melbourne might have information on Lanes Motors, Buick dealers Mos
  17. Could anybody give me an approximate cost of transporting a car from Chicago area to either Los Angeles or New York Rod
  18. ROD W

    1920 Buick

    Thank,s Bill and Tom. My wife and the children are heading over to USA next month but unfortunately I can,t get over at the moment. Got the car home last weekend an 800km round trip.I think thats about 500 miles. Slow trip home because the trailer would get a sway up over 80km/h and a hilly winding road, in many cases having to get off the sealed section of road when a truck coming the other way. Anyway got the car home. Its got a rumble That comes and goes, sounds like the front of the engine. Do the gears that drive the water pump and generator make a noise when worn. I was told the sed
  19. Just baught a 1920 Buick sedan. I saw the car 30 years ago, just after the elderly owner had finished restoring it. It has been sitting in his daughters garage for the last ten years up on blocks and has not been run for more than ten years. Will get some better photo,s when I pick the car up and get some numbers so Dave Corbin can positively identify it. Am looking forward to getting it home and getting it started Rod
  20. Catrinus. click on Buick pre-war. click on NEW THREAD. This will start your own thread [ story]. At the moment you are in the thread 1927 Buick sharp clutch
  21. Ben My 25 master manual reads. drive out tapered pin in generator coupling. Hold heavy block underneath so as not to spring shaft. Remove plate on end of generator.Remove cap over rear shaft bearing and slide generator coupling forward. Remove packing nut at front end of shaft which will uncover the bushing. Drive out the taper pin in this bushing. Remove three cap screws holding front bearing assembly to gear case and slide assembly forward. Id this the same as your instruction manual. I have a 25.55x and am in Bundaberg. Rod PS It might be easier to remove generator first.
  22. Mark you were right I did build a wooden tray on the back. I was able to pick up a tub and rear doors from a 1927 tourer but the moldings didn,t match up with the 25 front. For a 17 year old it was too complicated and no other cars to compare it with, so just built the wooden tray. See photo,s of before and nearing completion. But now with a few more years under my belt and a complete car, am looking forward to getting into another 1925 Buick. Thanks 50jetback. The car has come with many spares. I will be joining the Qld branch of the buick car club and as you said the Buick Club of Ameri
  23. Thanks Leon a lot of the hard work has been done, mechanicals ,engine,new woodwork, better than starting from scratch Rod
  24. Baught my first Buick 40 years ago, Worked picking oranges over christmas at $40 a week to save up the $150, A 1925 standard tourer that had been converted to a ute. Just baught another 1925 a 25-55x. Now will have to join the local Buick club in Queensland Australia.
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