ROD W

Larry, were you driving the car when that happened or on start up. Nice painting.

Mark, did you order the brushes with the recess. there the ones I got for my 1920. Not sure if 22 is the same.

Morgan, It looks like your front axle has been put on back to front at some time. The stearing stops should be at the back, which prevents the wheels turning too far.

Morgan, This is what you need

Advance Electrical Rebuilders in Michigan make the brushes for most model S/G Not cheap. On EBay for $120

That seems to be about the price for teen,s cars in that condition. This one was on HCCA for $2000 recently

Terry , what price did the car sell for.

For anybody who hasn,t already got this list.

Charlie, I agree with Hugh. You need to unbolt the rear spring hangers that attach to the rear axle housing so you are able to move the axle and torque tube back. If you remove the rear tires, you are able to move the rear axle and torque tube further back creating extra room. This will allow the room to install the engine and gear box. Then you can move the rear axle and torque tube forward and attach to the gear box. I place blocks of wood under the wheels so the axle doesn,t drop down too low.

The Buick Heritage Alliance has reproductions of 1915 reference books and parts lists, Also manuals do come up on Ebay.

Stuart, Are both parts of your locking caps and rings Aluminium. All my locking rings are steel and the caps are aluminium

Thanks for the Photo,s. Beautiful car.

Alex, Put this in the Buick Buy and Sell and the Buick pre war- Technical sections of this Forum and you will get more replys. and sugestions

Larry, ( dibarlaw ) what does Beulah mean.

Garry, Unfortunately in Aust, complete unrestored brass cars are unobtainable. If you pick up a trailer load of parts you consider yourself lucky, and then look for missing parts and parts that can be used for patterns. My engine number is 6011 which makes it a 1912. I would have prefered to buy a complete or older restoration. This one was recently for sale for US $36,500 but with the low Aust $ it put it out of my reach. You have a beautiful car. Hopefully when I get over to the US, I,ll get to go for a ride in your,s and Marks cars.

Now I,m getting confused. I,m also after hood bows for my 25, Thats top bows not bonnet bows.

Is there anybody in the Sacramento area that could pick up this hood for me.

Bob, Its hard to beat red to get that WOW factor. Looks fantastic. Roger, I always feel wire wheels give a more up market look to our Buicks. I picked up a set of wire,s and hubs for my 25, but they are 21" not the 22", Still unsure wether to put the smaller wheels on. Do you still have the car.

Apolo. What are your plans with this car. Are you considering a full, body off restoration or getting the engine running and then refurbishing individual parts. As you have a very complete car, if it was me, I would work on one part at a time. The problem with dismantling a car is often they never get back together again and you end up with lots of parts. All the best with your new project, and keep us informed on your progress. We love to see updates on what people are doing on their cars.

Thanks for the video Morgan. Engine sounds great. Over the years I think I have used the crank for starting more often than the starter motor. Congratulations on a great job.

Terry, I wish that Buick was following me home😢

donald w, We love seeing pictures of peoples cars. Can you post some pics of your car and what your plans are.

In the earlier engines the big end bearing was lubricated by the dipper

Mark

Hugh, On my 1920 it is attached to the upper windscreen glass