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Everything posted by Vila

  1. If your state accepts it as is then what's the issue?
  2. Sounds to me like he does not have the hubcap, but wants to unload everything he as on you.
  3. As I recall from painting my TR4 around 5 years ago, the Auto Color Library will mix and spray a sample 5x 7 inch of any color you request. Seems like the cost was $25 6 or 7 years ago. Cheaper then buying quarts of automotive paint. You can find their phone number at this website:
  4. Grimy, who says the "khaki sunhats with back-of-neck flap and chin strap" isn't cool. Anything would look cool when you are driving a Speedster.
  5. Joe Your one photo appears to be a Zenith Carburetor, not a SU. SU Carburators Zenith-Stromberg carburetors (or as the Brits say carburetters) like the one pictured on the left were used on numerous European cars from 1967 - 1975.
  6. Looks like a 1923 Chevrolet coupe.
  7. Anyone see episode 3 of Pennyworth on the EPIX channel? Alfred drives up and gets out of a nice looking Triumph TR4. In episode 4 he mentions that he sold his car since he lives in London and does not need one.
  8. edhd58 The car looks great with the new tires and I am glad to see you went with black walls. Way to many people are going with white walls on antique cars that most likely would not have originallly come out of the factory with them.
  9. I frequently use my speed wrench for putting in phillips head wood screws and the sliding T handle with a 9 inch extension and socket for nuts and bolts. I am not a fan of cordless tools. I would rather use pneumatic tools or electric power tools with a cord that have an endless amount of electricity provide by the nuclear power plant attached to the other end of the cord.
  10. Back in the 1960s I would have thought 60,000 was high mileage, today it is more like 200,000 when I may consider it high mileage, but then again maybe not. I bought a 1975 Saab new and drove it over 300,000 miles before giving it to my son to drive for a few more years. Never any major work except 1 clutch plate at around 250,000 miles. I had it in for an inspection in 1983 with 130,000 miles and a custom was in the garage looking at it while I was waiting and his first question to the mechanic was "what year is this". Then he looked at the odometer and said, "this Saab looks brand new, does it really have on 13,000 miles on it" and the mechanic said "you better look at the odometer again" and the next words out of his mouth were "HOLY $&%" My next car was a new 1986 Audi Coupe GT and I drove it for 350,000 miles when I gave it to my neighbor's son who drove it another 60,000 the last I had heard. It only ever needed oil changes, brake pad, rotors and drums. Never did any engine work and never replaced a clutch plate. At the same time as the Audi I had 1986 Saab Turbo that I bought used at 35,000 miles and drove to over 300,000 when I gave it to my daughter, who drove it for a few more years. Then I bought a 1992 Saab Turbo that when for over 300,000 miles with no issues. My current daily driver is a 2002 BMW Z3 with 190,000+ miles and never had an issue except for a Kenworth's front wheel that destroyed the left side on I-85 near Kannapolis, NC around 2008, when he could not see me and decided to change into my lane. $12,000 and 11 years later it is still on the road and still looks nearly new. I also have an all original 1984 BMW 633CSI with 130,000 miles on it that won an AACA Grand National award at Williamsport in 2016.
  11. First I did a google Image search of Laher Automobile and images of Laher Golf Carts and other such industrial carts came up. A Google Image search of "Laher Electric Golf Cars" has an Aqua colored advertisement with a standing woman steering a golf car that looks like is has these hubcaps:
  12. Does it look like the one in the link i am supplying? Says it is a 1941 thru 52 Chevrolet dome light switch. You may want to avoid buying it if you live in California. They say it could expose you to chemical known to cause cancer just like everything else they sell in California to include water and air. LOL.
  13. You do not need to install the diode in the cutout, especially if you need ambient air to cool it. Using a single Diode in lieu of your cutout contact you could install a jumper wire in the cutout, to short the two terminals. and install the diode anywhere along the wire between the cutout and where it terminates at the other end. You would need to cut the wire to install the diode unless you were install it at the other end where the wire terminates. Here is a Lucas voltage regulator for a positive ground Triumph TR4 that I converted to solid state last year. A bit more challenging than a single diode for a cutout.
  14. Unlike Edinmass, at the other extreme I painted my 1962 Triumph TR4 in my garage in 2013 for approximately $1,500 in supplies. I got my AACA 1st junior at Hershey in 2015, 1st senior at Hershey in 2016, Preservation at Hershey in 2017, and AACA Grand National at Greensburg in 2018. The car was also nominated for a National Award last winter, so it can be done on a small budget. Not the most durable paint, but I used acrylic lacquer since I was attempting to duplicate what the car looked like when came out of the factory. This was the first paint job I had done in over 40 years.
  15. For a 1932 Chevrolet I would go to the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America forum and ask this question. I have seen photos of 1932 jack posted there before and as I recall, it looks nothing like the jack Tinindian posted.
  16. I would use Boeshield T-9 on it. I used it on the metal parts of the 37 ft Sailboat I kept year round in the salt water of the Chesapeake Bay and never had a corrosion issue.
  17. I would not trust ebay to identify parts. I have seen to many items listed that are not what the write-up says they are without verification from other sources.
  18. I have not seen them mounted on cars for quite a while, but when I did they were usually mounted centered on the front bumper.
  19. To be short and to the point, I totally agree with edinmass.
  20. Back in the early 1980s I bought a house built in 1872 and restored it while we lived there and I did all the work myself. Around 1985 the guys I flew with in the PA Air National Guard gave me the nick name VILA after Bob Vila, originally from This Old House. In the early 2000s I designed the house we now live in and I was the sub-contractor to install the: 1. Fiber Cement siding 2. All flooring to include mostly Hickory hardwood, and brick entry and kitchen floor along with 2 1/2 baths of vinyl flooring. 3. Kitchen cabinets and major appliances 4. All bathroom cabinets and Master bath ceramic tile shower, counter, and bath tub surround. 5. Bonus Room / Yoga Studio above 3 1/2 car garage from bare studs and sub-floor up to finished room to include Electrical work, Drywall, Hardwood floor, Stair Case, Banisters and railings 6. All painting My daily driver's license plate is VILA, and my grand children even call me Papa Vila. Pictures are from 2004, the first Christmas we lived in the new house.
  21. This is my 1962 Triumph TR4. Yes it came from the factory in British Racing Green with a Red interior. Only 1 of 3 I know of in that color combination. Most BRG TR4s came with a Black interior, although Red was the other interior option for the BRG exterior. Photo taken last fall.
  22. Post Alan's address and see if anyone living near that location can investigate for you.
  23. I have owned several Triumph sports cars to include my current 1962 Triumph TR4 and have never had a problem with the Lucas systems. The only issue I ever had was with my current TR4. When i bought it the previous owner converted the Lucas positive ground generator to a negative ground Delco Alternator. That was a serious problem until I switch it back to all original. I have not had a problem with this car since.
  24. I just ran across my original posting and noticed I forgot to mention how I adjust the valves with the engine running. 1. Set the valve with .002 to .003 extra clearance with the engine cold. 2. Remove the windshield wiper vacuum hose from the manifold fitting and connect a vacuum gauge. 3. Select the feeler gauge with the correct clearance and one other feeler that is .001 or .0015. You will partially overlap the one thousandths feeler over the correct sized one. 4. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. The vacuum gauge should be rather steady at this point. 5. At slow idle, loosen a valve adjusting nut while at the same time you are holding the adjuster with a screw driver that is moving up and down as and the valve opens and shuts. I normally start at the back and work my way to the front. 6. Insert the proper size feeler gauge under the rocker arm, then slide it over to include the overlapped .001 or .0015 feeler while watching for a fluctuation in the vacuum gauge. 7. When the valve is adjusted properly the gauge will be steady with only the proper sized gauge and bounce around with the addition of the thin feeler gauge. 8. Tighten the nut while holding the adjuster in place with the screw driver, then re-check with the feelers to see if it is still adjusted properly. 9. Continue this process until all valves are adjusted. 10. Remove the vacuum gauge and reconnect the wiper hose.