Vila

You will limit your buyers if you ever decide to sell. What do I mean by that? If you keep it original, people interested in original cars and those interested in modifying the car in the future would be potential buyer. Modify the car and you just eliminated half of your buyers pool. Like stated earlier seat belts are safety items, a new and totally different engine is another issue When I was looking for a Triumph TR3 or TR4 back in 2008 there was a nice TR3 for sale. The only issue was it had a Toyota engine and transmission. That car was for sale for several years and I don't know if it ever sold.

Marty Yours looks like it could be for a 1933 Master. The 33 master is shaped exactly like your photos to include the holes several inches in from the outer diameter for the aluminum trim ring clips. There should also be a stainless steel ring approximately 1 inch wide around the outer diameter. 29 3/4 is correct for the diameter for a 1933 Master. I am not positive, but I believe the 1932 Chevrolet also used the same spare cover as the 33. I cannot tell from the photo. Is the diameter of hole in the center for the hubcap 6 inches ?

I remember back in the late 1950s and early 1960s my father saying he would not buy a new car because he hated the styling. Well for me we are there 60 years later. I am not a fan of SUVs, Pick-m-ups, or any of the current car designs, except: I always liked the original Minis from 1959 thru 2000. Basic same look for 41 years. The Mini Cooper S is the only car I would buy if I could keep it for 25 years and then show, but at that point I will be 95 years old. And this is the color combination and options. The new Mini has now been around for 19 years.

Whether it is a car or a house here is my opinion of flipping. I would never buy a flip, since you can always tell a cheap fix up job. On the other hand, if you put the money into either a car or house to accomplish the job properly as a long term investment, you will most likely not get all the money out of it in the short term. Someone putting the absolute minimum amount of money in a project, using the cheapest of everything to make it look good on the outside and in the end you still have a piece of crap.

The last junk yard I went to was 1977 or 78 while I was at Pease AFB, NH. As I recall, the junk yard was around 20 miles west of Kittery Maine.. All were 1930s cars and trucks in a similar condition to Jeffs photos. The only thing I got was a set of original Chevrolet Spark Plug terminals that I still have on my 1933 Chevrolet They had a lot of early Chevrolets to include a 1933 Chevrolet Master, and a 1933 or 34 Chevrolet Standard. They also had a 1937 Lincoln Zephyr.

1962 - 1966 Jaguar XKE convertible.

Yes you are missing a part. I would call The Filling Station. They specialize in Chevrolet parts and have similar steering parts for Chevys starting with 1927. Before calling, I would measure the outside diameter of the part you are attempting to duplicate. On 1927 and later Chevys the two pieces that fit agains the ball stud are the same. Their phone number is (800) 841-6622 and you can view similar parts they have for 1927 and later at the following link. https://www.fillingstation.com/detail/4209/Chevrolet_19271959_TIE_ROD_DRAG_LINK_REPAIR_KIT.html

I totally agree with most of the other comments about not putting radials on cars in the 20s and 30s. Just because you put radials on an car does not mean it will stop following the ridges in the road. My daily driver 2002 BMW Z3 3.0i has radials and it has wonders all over the road ever since it was new with just the slightest ridges in the road surface. I only put radials on my cars that originally come with radials as an option.

Great looking Corvette. The color combination is stunning.

I usually buy Automobile magazine when I am flying and the last one was for a vacation flight to Bermuda in mid October. I guess I will need to find another magazine in the future. As I recall, it had a good article on 1950s Corvettes.

When I had the pin stripping redone on my 1984 BMW 633 CSi in 2015, the gentlemen who took off the old and redid the new stripe used Easy-Off oven cleaner to remove the old stripes. Interesting story. He lives in Lansdale PA just outside of Philadelphia and I live in Mechanicsburg, just west of Harrisburg PA. He would only drive approximately half way, so we met at a Super Market parking lot in Lititz where he did the work. After my car, he was going to pin stripe several cars at a dealership near the Super Market. He sprayed on the oven clear and wiped it back of around 2 or 3 minutes later and the pin stripes came right off. Dennis McGoldrick did the Pinstriping and it looks great. https://www.dmpinstriping.com

Your parts are a thermostat housing for a 1930 - 34 Chevrolet and could also be for later years, but my parts manual only goes up to 1934. 3063255 is the upper half for 1929 - 34, but your lower half 3053265 is only for 1930 - 34. This Thermostat housing was only used when the car had the optional Interior Heater. You will notice the right side of the bottom half of your housing has a hole where you are supposed to screw a nipple in to connect the return water hose that runs to the firewall. The hot water supply hose connects to another part that screws into the back of the cylinder head where the temperature gauge sensor screws in. That part screws in first and provides another nipple for the supply water hose and then the temperature gauge sensor screws into the top of that part. This is the original way Chevrolet designed the parts to supply hot water to the optional interior car heater, but you will see people attempt to connect a heater using other methods that don't usually work as well.

I have to agree with you Jeff. Since the first time a saw a picture of one the 1906 to 1910 American Underslungs have always been my favorite.

I work 1/4 mile from Librandi's at Harrisburg IAP (KMDT) and have had all my Nickel and Chrome plating done by them. Like Mark, I have never been disappointed and they are worth the wait. For me it has normally taken 3 to 4 months. The question to ask yourself when getting parts plated is to you want a good job or a quick job. I many cases you will not get both.

Did you look for the serial number plate mounted on the floor just below the right front corner of the front seat and under the floor mat just inside the door sill. That is where it is located on my 1933 Chevrolet and that is where the info I found on google showed it when I did an image search of "where is a 1940 Chevrolet serial number located"

The color looks great to my 70 year old eyes. There was a topic on the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America 1933 thru 1936 forum approximately a year about the original engine color for 1930s Chevrolet engine. Someone asked what the original color of gray was used and the consensus of the answer was "Yes". Yes meaning Chevrolet used several suppliers and depending on the factory where the engine was built, the engine paint supplier, and paint batch the gray color could be different. Same supplier and different batches could even be a different gray color.

There may be a spiral shaped spring behind each escutcheon that would have pressed the interior door panel out against the escutcheon and handle so the door panel would not flex to reveal any gaps.

I remember those vehicles, my son used to play with them. One minute it is a car or truck and with a few twists it be comes a super hero. Designed by kids from the Transformer generation.

I understand the complaint about the toll costs. I am just trying to figure out why you would use the turnpike for these trips when I-83 north to Rt 322 would be just as fast if not quicker with no tolls.

Mercer09, are you referring to a specific state with reference to some of your comments. The reason I ask is that I bought a 1962 vehicle several years ago that was registered using only the engine number on the Title and I completed paperwork to get it changed to what the manufacturer referred to as the Chassis Number, which had a very unique format that started with the vehicle model number following by a unique 7 digit number. What we know of ast the standardized VIN did not actually appear until 1981. VINs were first used in 1954 in the United States. From 1954 to 1981, there was no accepted standard for these numbers, so different manufacturers used different formats. ... In 1981, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration of the United States standardized the format. Prior to the standardized VIN each manufacturer used there own methods for creating their vehicles serial numbers. 1. The manufacturers Serial Number, sometimes referred to by other names like Commission Number. 2. The chassis number 3. The engine number 4. A combination that includes part of the vehicle model number and the last few digits of the vehicles actual serial number. 5. Could be others Prior to the standardized VIN, the non-standardized serial number was not alway a good method for identifying a vehicle, since two manufactures could have produce vehicles with the same exact number. Vasquez7al, if you can't find any complete number on the car that matches the title, is there any chance your title number could be a combination of the vehicles Model number and several of the last few digits from a number you can find on the car?

I and I reproductions is another, and they are located in California. https://iandireproduction.com/CHEVY-CAR-PARTS_c_215.html

63RedBrier The best fit for you in retirement will depend on numerous factors: 1. Do you like mild weather with just a few weeks that are hot mid summer and cold for 3 months in the winter or extremely hot most of the year with milder winters. 2. We all want to live in a state with low taxes. Some have State income taxes on every form of income to include retirement and Social Security that will kill you but not much else, some have no state income taxes on any form of income but other taxes (sales tax, property taxes, etc.) that will kill you, and last are the states that may have moderate taxes in some categories that are tolerable and none in others you can live with. 3. Cost of Living. Take in to account things like the cost of housing, utilities, food, auto insurance on your daily drivers, etc. 4. I generally drive my antique cars from mid March thru early November, and that gives me time to do other home projects like painting a room or two in the house, rebuilding some car parts in the shop in my basement, etc over the winter I live 25 minutes from Hershey Pa and 15 minutes from the Carlisle Fair Grounds and would not move anywhere else. I grow up 15 minutes from where I currently live and plan on retiring, except for 8 years of active duty Air Force from 1972 to 1980 where I lived in Texas, Colorado, Northern Maine, Texas again, California (two locations), New Hampshire, and Washington state in that order. The only one of those states I would ever consider moving to is New Hampshire, except is gets a little to cold for me in the winter. I like PA because: 1. It does not have extremely hot weather, we have 4 distinct seasons. 2. Each year PA is usually listed as one of the 10 states for the lowest taxes on retirees. I like that, I don't like subsidizing the government. 3. Moderate cost of living. The cost of everything listed above is in the reasonable range. 4. Places like Lancaster PA has been listed as one of the top 10 towns to live in for the entire US the last few years. So where you choose to live should depend on what best fits your personal tastes, and of course LOW TAXES. I would make a list of what is important to you and do some research on each category to see which state has the best fit.

You are welcome. USAF (SAC) 1972 - 1980: KC-135A Navigator with the 509th Air Refueling Squadron Pease AFB NH and 92nd Air Refueling Squadron Fairchild AFB WA PA Air National Guard (AFSOC) Harrisburg, PA 1983 - 2005: EC-130E Navigator and the first EC-130J Combat Systems Officer (CSO) in AFSOC.

My wife knows nothing about cars other then putting gas in the tank and does not like working in my garage. but will hold a part or a light if needed. I normally go to sprint car races every Friday night from March thru October and she is not a fan of most auto racing either, but she now watches Formula 1 races on TV with me and has some favorite drivers (Kimi Raikkonen, Daniel Ricciardo, Romain Grosjean). Said she will go with me next year to the Belgian Grand Prix at Spa Francorchamps. I guess I am making progress.

I hate to be a jerk here, but buzzing is a rather harsh term for what I saw at the Hershey show. After flying in the military for 33 years, some on low level routes approved for flight at 300 feet Above Ground Level (AGL), I would say those guys overflying the show field at least 1,000 feet above the ground was far from BUZZING. As I recall, the FAA requirements are 500 AGL within a 2,000 ft radius of people in sparsely populated areas and 1,000 AGL in densely populated areas. Aviators generally think of BUZZING as an illegal maneuver well below the 500 or 1,000 AGL requirements in unapproved airspace.