c49er

The odometers kinda get wacky and don't work right on some cars. The top plug on the shortbextension housing is the one to remove for checkings trans pump pressure. 40+ pounds is plenty good to go. If it has been banging out of high gear too much the direct speed blocker ring/ sleeve and input shaft teeth get damaged by rounding off. Ifbthat does happen the trans will most always pop out of high gear under load. You say it pops out only light throttle and under a very light load? Be sure none of the trans wiring is bare, clean the governor points with contact cleaner...make sure all connections are tight. There could be a problem at the carb throttle kick down switch. Easy things first!

How many miles on this car Does the M-5 transmission look to be the original? You say the Fluid Drive is full...well what about the m-5 transmission? Low oil level and the pump pressure runs too low. You need 40 lbs to keep the direct speed sleeve and blocker ring locked up to the the input shaft to stay in high.

The lower thin steel piece with two holes mounts on one end of the lower control arm inner pivot shaft mounting bolt studs.Mounts over the top of the pivot shaft, then the two lock washers and nuts go on. Two of the brackets/clips go on each inner control arm pivot shaft. Total of four on a car.

Did you leave rags in the intake/exhaust ports while the maniflolds were e engined used abeing surfaced then not remove said rags? Those engines used a fiber camshaft timing gear...maybe damaged teeth...

Usually the top nut side is fine thread 7/16" X 20 tpi. As mentioned try ARP. They were able to supply 33 of the the correct studs for my 413 Dodge truck flat head six engine.

I don't think there were many if any torque specifications ever originally listed for cars or trucks before the mid to later 30's. First common use of torque wrenches started in the early 40's. You were to tighten the bolt just till the bolt head will break off.

When, if, you get it running ok and running for a while re-check the compression on the engine hot. Numbers should be higher. Throttle wide open for this compresson check.

The transmisdion e-brake shoes are probably stuck to the drum...that is if you left the e- brake on for 4 years. Trans fluid level is checked idling in nuetral.

The dimmer switch can cause no lights as can both bulbs high and low being burned out. There is only a small breaker box controlling the head lamps...not your problem. Make sure the hi/lo bulbs light up by 6 volt hot wiring them. On the car or on the bench. But back to the dimmer first. On, off, on,off etc. See if the lights flash.

You have it easy... just install the OD and shorten the drive shaft.

Your car has Fluid Drive and a short wheel base. Yes you can put a MoPar R10 OD in your coupe...but.. The driveshaft will have to be shortened and the longer Fluid Drive three speed trans input shaft will have to be installed in the over drive trans. There is also two types of syncro's used in the MoPar three speeds...pin type and strut type. Dictates what input shaft has to be used in the OD. Also driveshaft angle must be checked and adjusted.

With that carb you could use the Fluid Drive coupling and M-5 Hydraulically Operated Transmission!😏

Hat carb shown Takes the universal Ball and Ball 1 BBL carb kit for non Fluid Drive cars Most all the kits for these carbs include parts and many gaskets fitting many years of these carbs. A sample pic of the carb location # on a Ball and Ball..E7U2= 1951 Dodge 3 Ton 306ci. six.

I need the complete oil filter housing and cap cover for a 1949-52 Chrysler six. It bolts on the block with two bolts and the housing is aluminum. Looks like this...ike

I would install that starter...remove the lower bell housing cover, Use a remote starter and just really see what the pinion gear is actually doing. Have done this before on 40's FD MoPar cars and straight clutch trucks...easy.

Those ring gear welds have to be carefully be cut to remove the ring gear. Also the ring gear needs to be carefully positioned and re-welded. Welds equal to maintain FD balance. Be sure you need a ring gear to solve your problem.

Plain answer...nope. No high flow WP. So as long as the block and radiator are clean and have good flow...and the proper thermostat with proper reading temp gauge the car should run temp wise just fine. Oh and a rust free clean water distribution tube and proper timing. This assuming the engine runs out well at all speeds.

There are seven 1-5/8" core plugs. Five on the drivers side, one on the front behind the engine support plate and one at the back between the block and bell housing. Rear core plug shown... Front and rear factory installed core plugs on the Chrysler flathead 265 six are brass. No need to replace unless clean out or rebuild.

Not too impressed..Interior is well...Plain, poorly done and kinda ugly sorry to say. But each to his own😉

With no electrical to tbe transmission driving the car if it won't upshift it's too low of trans oil pump pressure or a damaged input shaft, a blocker ring and direct speed blocker sleeve. You need a new NOS MoPar parts to fix it 100%. I ised to do lots of these m5/m6 transmissions. BTW..Idle speed and oil levels must be correct for proper upshifts with electrical hooked up too.

I remember doing a lot of slant six distributor drive gears, valve adjustments and exhaust header leak repairs back in the day. Good runners though. Oh...Gotta watch for cowl rust through...water onto the fuse block.

Lexol leather conditioner has been around for over 40 years... Use to use it a lot back on the early 70's..

Also 1946-48 Chrysler C39 eight cylinder radiators are tube and fin...NOT HONEYCOMB!🤣

The clutch disc can only be installed the correct way in a fluid drive coupling. The disc cannot be put in backwards.

Slotted side of piston is installed opposite of valve side of engine. Not on the valve side.