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Everything posted by c49er

  1. Chrysler "8" manifolds don't weld repair. As said already. I've seen and heard of several failures. I only replace then with good used. Even then there are a few things to do before installing a used manifold on one of these engines. Long engines require the manifolds to be able to "creep".
  2. Don't have it. The most common section to crack. The outer ends fit all 323 eights thru 1950. Center sections are tough to find let alone the whole manifold on any eight.
  3. Which section of the three is cracked? Possibly I can help.
  4. Sounds like/ looks like one cylinder is down.🙁 Hopefully after running awhile it will clear up and idle so you can balance a nickel on it's side. Those 265's are a good engine.🙂 I have two.
  5. Permatex #1 hardening is what I use on this bolt situation.
  6. I only use asbestos linings on my Lockheed brakes now days as the modern after market linings perform very poorly. I use a ammco 1750 or the MT19 Miller tools and arc each shield set to each drum. Old stock asbestos linings work extremely well and correctly as I remember back in the 60's and 70's. Todays modern linings are too hard. Too weak of stopping power and after sitting for amount of time ...even in dry storage brief wheel lock up can happen. JMO on these 30's thru 50's MoPars using Lockheed double anchor and Center Plane brakes.
  7. Ebay is good to the buyer....except for the endless hassle of using the right search tools....it shouldn't have to be so hard. Ebay is pissing people off...losing many buyers and sellers. I feel sorry for the sellers. Wish it was as it used to be 20 years ago.
  8. So your master cylinder was not new or rebuilt and possibly had a torn cup caused by pushing the piston and cup too deep I to the pitted sludgy part of thecylinder....? That is very common... On modern cars doing a pad and rotor replacement never push the pedal farther than normal when doing a pedal bleed. Otherwise a piston cup in the M/cylinder might get torn. Result endless bleeding till the cows come home.😄
  9. Fluid-Matic...9-1/2" Fluid-Torque Torque Drive...10-1/4" 1953 NY'er Hemi V-8
  10. Did you make sure the brake shoe linings match the drum curve exactly? If not the new shoes need to be arced to fit each drum. Then as mentioned the major brake adjustment is necessary. Go to the p15/d24 site for more info. Use the factory shop manual too for tech info on Lockheed fixed anchor brakes.
  11. 1/2" and 7/16" open ends. Easy to adjust. I have always used regular length wrenches...not tappet wrenches.
  12. What's up with the fan blade?!!!!💣
  13. Sometimes the floating oil pickup adjustment tangs are out of calibration. Even though the oil level reads full the pickup float is sucking some air. I recently fixed this on a 50 chrysler 8 having fluctuating oil pressure at the full mark....added a quart of oil to figure it out.
  14. I'm glad I still have a couple of those 46-48 radiators. Your core is a 3" too I suppose. I think 10 g's is too high and wait time tooling but what do I know. You have excellent drawings to get quotes....interesting to see what comes up....not too many shops left to do this type of work. Maybe you will get lucky on price and turn around time. Australia also has a great radiator restoration company...shipping though would be expensive.
  15. Buy the correct front engine harness from Y and Z or Rhode Island Wiring....make it right...make it easy. I have done several complete 1946-48 Chrysler harness jobs that way and over the years. I have also spliced in new cloth wire on certain old but good repairable Chrysler harnesses too. It's hard to do unless you are real good at it...I've done this type of work for forty plus years so it's easy either way for me...
  16. I sold a couple radiator shop cleaned and checked 1946-48 radiators in the late 70's for $100.00 each !!!!
  17. The 1946-48 Chrylser eight cylinder radiator measurements... Top to Bottom...27" add 1-1/4" for rad neck Overall width... edgeto edge of rt/left mounting flanges...34-1/2" Centerline to centerline width of mounting bolt holes..33-1/4"...three each on mounting flanges Core thickness...3" Top tank thickness front to rear....7" Part#1155287
  18. Dave.....I'll get those dimensions this weekend! Three years and up to 10 grand....OMG! The price of my rads just went up big time...ha ha....I better keep them for my cars for sure now.
  19. "Bob, do you know the max width, height and thickness of the '46-'48 straight-8 radiators? I have a feeling, although they look really similar to the '41, that they are a bit squatter, and possibly wider. The mounting bolt holes are definitely in the wrong places, but the interesting thing is that they both have that oddly angled bottom tank, which is the same shape as the support. Maybe I need to send my radiator out to your guy..." This weekend I could go to my parts and measure one up (1946-48 eight cyl radiator) with pictures if you want... Bob
  20. I'd spend the money and do it right.. Copper recore. I have a couple 1946-48 eight cylinder Chryslers that have that same shape Or very close to the same ...tube and fin radiator. They where never honeycomb type. I spent over $1800.00 to have a local guy do my old 4 ton Dodge truck radiator...he did a beautiful job and it's the real deal.... looks and cools right. He hesitated to do it...but I got him to do it. I was very thankful as I dreaded going long distance for a huge heavy rad record job. Should last at least another 50 years. Aluminum no way....
  21. 343 ft lbs of torque on a 413 six..! .
  22. Sawzall with a six tooth blade. That ought to do it. Kidding of course. I being in the car biz have cut hundreds and hundreds of hoses using a quality made hose cutter...they come in two sizes.. smaller heater hose size and the larger radiator size. Wet the cut area on the hose with water/antifreeze ...rotate and cut the hose. Perfect square and smooth looking cut hose. This if you care about beautiful cut hose work.😄
  23. 160 to 180 is typical. Little higher in hot summer weather...190 max. The lower block soft plugs and water tube might have to be removed. This to check for plugging or rusting of tube and to also flush sludge out of the lower part of cylinder block.
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