c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. It's true there was a long and short (primary/secondary) lining set put out by Chrysler Corp. in 1946. Good luck finding one of those sets. They were not used on all models and were discontinued sometime around 1950? All linings today unless custom ordered will be full length...modern linings which IMO are too hard do not work as good as the original now mostly obsolete asbestos linings.
  2. The front and rear brake shoe sets are the same. They (shoes) should be arced to fit each drum to do the brake job right.... read the shop manual and search MoPar/ Lockheed brakes on line...this will show you whats needed to fit the shoes to the drums for quicker wear in and a high firm safe pedal.
  3. Don't let anyone in the back seat rest there fingers over the top of the door gap while the car is driving over a severe angled driveway! I did that and got a blister from the door gap closing up. Park the car on a flat surface to be sure you can close the top up too. A friend used to love those ( woody leBaron) cars and found the body structures flex.... a lot.
  4. Just like using a dolly in body panel work. Feel is the key.
  5. The Hollander book shows 1941 to 1942 cpe frames are a different part number. It also shows the frames are the same part # 1942-48 Not sure whats the difference in the body's.
  6. Jesus buddy back off....I'm not trying to start a fight. I'm not trying to tell you anything. If I was close I'd help him fix his issue and all for free. I do that a lot for local fellow car hobbiests...I'm retired and have the time and good will... Ihope you will some day too... God bless you says Tammy Baker.
  7. Wasn't picking on you or anyone else just stating that hammering on steering gears is not a good thing. The service manuals, All Data will state this. I've had to do jobs on cars and trucks people have damaged things because they don't know to to do the repairs right or use the wrong tools. Good tooling makes the jobs quick and easy but good tools cost money. Good tools can be rented when in need to do the job right.
  8. Be careful pounding on a Pitman arm hanging off a steering box sector shaft.... you can damage the box bearings or gears. Also using a pickle fork can damage the gear box case. A smooth pull is the way to go. JMO.
  9. Use the correct heavy duty Pitman arm puller tool...it will pull it right off. I do several of them every year. You can rent one if necessary. The one shown below is a cheap Chinese one... See the jaws bending... Chinese crap. Use a good one.
  10. I have a set of Go-Jaks...one person can roll any car ...even big heavy Chryslers
  11. That is one beautifully restored 42 Windsor 3 passenger coupe! A couple minor issues but NICE! Too bad this is likely another Ebay farce.
  12. Jeez...and I thought I knew these 3 passenger Chrysler 3 passenger coupe's! I didn't even pick up the 1941 yet knew it was a 42 grille... getting older.............................. Scammers.
  13. The trans in a 1941 is the M-4 Vacamatic... the 47 is the M-5 hydraulically operated transmission. That's a problem as the vacuum/electrical controls and shifter rods, control cable etc.differ a lot. Using the M-4 on the 47 Engine would be a good idea. Also the throttle linkage is mounted different. You would need both engines and Transmissions side by side to do a swap properly.
  14. I'd like to see the dash and door "mottled" plastic, engine and trunk... not much info on this car. Looks nice exterior wise though..
  15. Most likely driveshaft or the rear diff... ring and pinion or spider/side gears. Easy to figure out.
  16. That engine does not looked bored out.. just honed out?!!! Ball hone?
  17. Carb automatic choke slow to open holding the fast idle cam on too long....
  18. Swap the driveshaft end to end... if the noise changes dramatically ... bad ball and trunnion joints.
  19. I'm not sure you have the four sets of steel slotted cone nuts and thick counter sunk brass washers in the correct places on your manifolds. Don't they belong only on the two ends of the exhaust manifolds? I might be wrong on the older engines.... The purpose of those special tapered cone huts and 3/8" thick countersunk brass washers is to let the ends of the exhaust manifold flex and move preventing the ends from cracking. Some pics of this special washer arrangement. What and where they are placed. Four .167" thick steel washers are used at the red X's
  20. It's an oil pressure relief valve .. it dumps off excessive oil pressure.. say it limits the maximum pressure at 55lbs. Normally the threaded part of it stays in the block and only the "domed" portion comes off to adjust it... It really never needs to be adjusted to change the oil pressure.
  21. Looks way older than any early 50's MoPar interior courtesy lights. I'd say late 30's.
  22. You couldn't begin to restore that 28 Chrysler for $52,000.00.. looks to be a pretty nice car. The 30 Imperial... barely a hope it runs type of driver!