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Everything posted by c49er

  1. What about the one off 1949 T&C hardtop supposedly made? Where is that car.... I thought I had a lead on it back in the mid seventies....yea right! Or the T&C six cylinder roadster ......never was produced... but John Slusar and Loyd Mayes built one and it's been around the auction market a few rounds making a lot of money.
  2. There is only one T&C cpe in existance... the "David Wallace" car. The first 2 dr hardtop. Loyd Mayes owned it for awhile as have a few others... a very nice original car with a few minor touch ups over the years. Supposedly seven were made .... no others besides the Wallace car have ever been located.
  3. Turn the car upside down,. no need to jack it up.
  4. The 1946-48 8 cylinder Saratoga, NewYorker and Imperial cars use the larger threaded bolt pin A-Arms. Sedan, cpe, and convert all the same arms upper and lower. Six cylinder car A-Arms won't fit. Smaller threaded bolt pins.
  5. I have one too... excellent quality charger unlike the DIY'er chargers today.
  6. How many MoPar woodies do you have now?
  7. I have always liked the 1949 MoPar split tailgate window woody wagons... even more so on the big body cars. That looks like it has real nice original wood too.
  8. Pull the front nose off with radiator...raise front of engine a couple inches... remove front pulley and timing cover to access seal.... check front pulley hub for seal wear groove and pitting. If worn install speedi-sleeve.. install new modern seal from backside of timing cover properly. Re-assemble reverse order.
  9. You wouldn't want it not to stick to the block...plugged pick up screen.
  10. Yes new cars are selling to the millennial people and they are ugly... Ugly cars and belt lines.... really ugly grilles.....awful looking things.
  11. That T-bird should have the factory Midland brake booster that works properly for good brakes.
  12. The right answer is ATF in new cylinders and new pump. It's just a pump and hydraulic cylinders like a car lift or P/S system... use a safe, clean, cheap long lasting fluid.
  13. Is your water pump a "Brand New" replacement pump or rebuilt pump. I don't see the original two zerk fittings....no drilled spot for them. I'm curious as to how good the new 1946-50 Chrysler replacement pumps being made hold up.
  14. Those springs look slightly rust pitted. They all should be replaced IMO.🙂
  15. " That upside down manifold system is interesting too." Very common Chrysler Straight 8 intake/exhaust...ALL 1946-50 323 Chryslers and pretty much the same on all 323's back to 1935?
  16. The big 384ci. Imperial and CW Airflow engines also have a stamped steel water jacket cover that's full length on the drivers side of the engine.
  17. Just because it has air brakes doesn't mean a CDL in all cases....38,000 lbs though is an issue.
  18. Split rear upper tail gates W/ 2 pieces of glass are 1949 plymouth wagon only.. 1950 plymouth uses a 1 piece rear glass like 1951 -52. It's for sure a 1951 or 52 as mentioned'..... hard to tell with out any factory trim on it . 1951 instrument gauges have a black back ground.... 52's use a light gray back ground. ....if they are even in the car.. that will ID the year correctly. P-23-..... is the original engine # above the generator. Looks the be the cheaper line wagon- because of no chrome around the front windshield glass.... unless they stripped that off too!. I had a 1952 upper line Savoy wagon years ago.
  19. The M-5 "Hydraulically Operated" trans needs no cooling... it's what it is and there is no way to plumb it for cooling. It will be fine.
  20. It will be interesting to see how the straight 8 pulls that trailer. Keep us informed!
  21. A 265 out of a 1952-54 Chrysler should already have a "Spitfire" head. If it was a 1953 up Dodge 2-1/2 ton truck engine 265 it would not have the "Spitfire" head.... just a plain head. Compression ratio for the car 265 ..... 7.0 " " for the truck 265 ......6.8
  22. Just remove the BIG 1-7/8" FD clutch plate nut-bend over the metal locking tab first...... this opens up the area so you can remove the upper and lower bushings. Be gentle when handling the Fluid Drive unit as there is a copper bellows seal that is flexing a bit now that there is no main shaft installed into the FD unit holding the clutch driven plate firmly in alignment. If you have access to good tooling ....Snap On, Kent moore etc.. use the correct bushing remover to remove the deep smaller diameter bushing and larger upper "Oilite" bushings. You won't find the original factory Miller Service tool. So If you don't have the proper tools you can use two accurately sized wood dowels that fit the bushings or steel round stock. You pack thick grease or watered bread down into the bushing... fill it full with no air pockets to top of the bushing being removed. Pound the wood dowels or round steel rod down into the bushing till it pops up and is loose. Might require a refill or two of grease. To find the correct bushings try Roberts , AMS Mopar or Andy Bernbaums. Install the new bushings with a proper fitting drift.