c49er

A properly installed factory seal cannot fall out. A modern replacement seal without the steel reinforcement... all bets are off. Pictures required.

Take it out, check the shaft for side play...probably will find none. Pull the cover wash it out with brake cleaner. Clean up the points with contact cleaner. A couple drops of oil on the shaft. Re-install the governor back in the trans and on you go. They are a really trouble free unit except for occaisionally seeing a tiny bit of old oil on the points. The trans cannot be over filled.

There are no oil seals used in these 1946-53 M-5/M-6 governors.... Too much oil in the transmission or completely wiped out shaft or bushing will let large amounts of excessive oil quickly into the points cover. I have never come across a severely worn shaft/bushing.

No one should trust "that" culprit...he's a hoser.

The governor most likely is good as long as it's contacts are clean of oil and assembled correctly and the original good cover gasket is used. A different thickness or no gasket will change the transmission upshift speed. With the wire disconnected from the governor stud... then connecting one lead of an ohm meter to the stud, othwr meter lead connected to the governor case you have a very low ohm continuity reading. Say less than 1/2 ohm. Mine shows .4 ohms. Meaning the points are closed and making good contact. To see.if the govermor points open drive the car up to about 17 mph in high range ...the points should open up, digital meter will show "OL" meaning open continuity or over load. Slow back down under 5 mph meter should read less than 1/2 ohm meaning points closed as they should when coming to and stopped. Same testing can be done on the bench. Just have to spin the shaft quickly with your fingers a couple times to see that the meter shows "OL" when you spin the shaft fast enough. Simple test.

That must have been awful when fluid leaked inside the doors or 1/4 panel and dribbled out all over the bottom wood door frame staining the wood.😒

Yeah?

All 1949-53 M-6 Gyro-Matic governors are the same regardless of what car said transmission is in.

Won't fit a DeSoto...

Not much in a Fluid Drive Coupling...just two grape fruit halves and bellows/and graphite ring seal up to middle of 1950. Some pics...

A rare D41 3 passenger cpe with the M-6!

I have never seen one of these governors full of oil. It is typical for the smallest amount of of to get into the governor and contaminate the points after years of service but that's it. Is the transmission over filled? Unscrew the governor and drain it out.

What body style Wayfarer? Rare to ever see a Gyro-Matic M-6 in one.

Typically a seal retaining plate is used on 1941 Chryslers rear outer seals. The seal in that plate with the five mounting holes seals on the inner hub of the rear brake drum, not on the axle shaft... But you are installing a seal into the backing plate and the seal seals on the axle shaft likeb1946 and later MoPar cars. As fornthe inner axle housing oil seal... You have to pull the axle out...it's a tight fit (tapered Timkin roller bearing). Use a slide hammer with a seal hook to remove it. Carefully install the new proper seal supporting the seal face fully till seated in housing. Check the axle seal surface too for wear and pitting.

That truck is a 1951-52 "B3" series truck. Probably a B-3-B 108 1/2 ton, 108" WB Open the drivers door and there will be or should be a model and VIN plate. Plate looks like these..

All that restoration work...your were rewarded. Congratulations!👍

I have removed many M/cyl's from underneath the car on 1946-54 MoPars. These pics are on a 1946 NewYorker I r&r'd the master cylinder. Takes about 25 minutes for me to remove and replace this way instead of removing the seat and full floor pan on cars up to 1948. I always secure the clutch pedal in the up position so it cannot slam down on my hands with the linkage rods removed. The clutch over center spring is strong! Even if the shaft won't move in the cylinder you can still twist and angle the cylinder and shaft to slide the pedals off and leave them hanging in the floor board. That shaft is supposed to be a press fit in the cylinder. Helps keep the pedals tight and in alignment to the floor hole openings. Use the open end jaws of a 13/16" wrench to force the horse shoe clips off the shaft...two wacks on the end of the wrench will knock them off.

A 10-1/4" diameter clutch is used with FTD.

If the FD coupling is not leaking...leave it alone!!! I have heard several horror stories of out of balance cut open rebuilt fluid drive coupings...done to replace the front bearing and possibly resurface the graphite ring seal surface...if it works leave it alone. If the M-5 Hydralically Operated transmission is working fine leave it alone too! You don't need to rebuild these two pieces just because you think you should. Have owned and still own several 1946-50 Chrysler T&C's/ New Yorkers.

Disconnect the 6v power feed to the circuit braeker/resistor block and drive it around the neighbor hood to see if it fully upshifts and won't bang drop out of high 4 th gear. Temember wit out electrical it will not ever auto down shift till you come to a complete standing stop and push the clutch in. Also do not try to back up unless the transmission has downshifted at a complete stop. This way of testing with out electrical controls is only to see if it will always upshift and stay upshifted. It will prove the transmission internal gears and pump are good. If the trans still pops outnof high gear (2nd or 4th ) most likely a internal transmission issue.....direct speed blocker ring ans sleeve, input shaft and possible oil pump pressure or drive pin issue.

R10 OD....1952-54 Plymouth and Dodge when it first came out. But now days people mostly use them in 1946-55 Plymouth and Dodge cars....with out Fluid Drive on the Dodge. The date of manufacture is stamped on the left front of trans by side cover...

Sun turns the lclear glass lenses purple after a long time.

The 1946-48 Chrysler M-5 transmission square fill plug is marked yellow as shown in the picture half way up.. Use that plug... no others as they access pressure control springs/valves or the piston shift rail screw.

Just about all these special Chrysler Corp. Miller service Tools on one of my walls.... Shoe arching machine and other old brake tools I still need and use them though!

Water pump grease gun....though I still use one occasionally.