c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. I'll add a couple things.. Smell the fuel in the gas tank... If it smells like varnish do not let it get pumped into the carb by turning the engine over....remove the fuel line from the carb or pump before even turning the engine over. The old gas is probably by now root beer colored...nasty stuff varnished fuel. The tank and fuel lines/ hoses will need to be removed and cleaned or replaced as with the fuel pump. The carb...rebuild... I don't know if that engine has a rope type rear main seal but if it does some caution about a dried up rear main seal from years of sitting.. ..they can stick to the crankshaft because of lack of oil in the fibers of that seal..upon start up the rope seal can tear apart and a severe leaking rear main leak can be the end result...to help prevent this....put 4- 5 gallons of a thin oil, kerosene etc in the engine to get the seals wet with oil...letting it soak a couple days....then turn the engine over by hand at the ring gear or front crank nut...oil in the cylinders too. If the rear main is a rubber lip type no special warnings. Get the oil pressure up before starting with the spark plugs out and by cranking it over till the oil light goes out or gauge shows pressure...
  2. We will agree to disagree then🙂 I have done many vintage car brake jobs...a lot of modern linings can be grabby or not so... The late 30's thru mid 50's MoPars with lockheed brakes have some special brake adjustment requirements...Ammco 1750 or Miller MT19 tools and a shoe arcer which I use on all the brake jobs....a must to make the brakes right from the start. Most of todays modern linings on the Lockheed type shoes don't give a safe feeling when stopping and are weak at best under. Can be grabby upon 1st few stops and after heating up too soft and weak under hard braking. JMO
  3. I strongly suggest asbestos shoes as mentioned^^^^..not the modern slow and soft stop lining material probably made in a far off country of clay and charcoal.
  4. The designation for the above Chrysler marine straight "8" also known as the "Royal" Chrysler marine M-43-S engine. The Chrysler straight "8" industrial engines also have a brass ID tag generally on the right rear of the block .. Industrial 8's will have a IND9, IND12, OR IND12A Stamped tags...could be a couple more designations too. The industrial 8 shown above is a IND12.
  5. c49er

    Brake Fluid

    DOT 5 CANNOT be used in any newer cars with ABS systems... Most all modern cars specify 3 or 4. No way I know of to tell the difference between them DOT 3 AND 4 fluids. I have to check for DOT 3 AND 5 fluids in vintage cars quite a bit when doing brake jobs..The customers don"t know!
  6. c49er

    Brake Fluid

    Is your wife's car an antique car? If it's a typical modern car all it should have is DOT3 or 4...never DOT 5 silicone. If an old car DOT could have typical DOT3/4 or silicone DOT 5 which doesn't mix with 3 or 4. To tell which type is in a car.. Put some water in a glass..put a few drops of the brake fluid in the water.. Stir..wait couple minutes..DOT 3/4 will mix in with the water Silicone DOT 5 will be seen as a oil blob at the bottom of the gallery of water.
  7. c49er

    Fluidrive interchange?

    Old dead thread...but you cannot easily swap in a later 1946-48 TipToe trans in place of the 1941-42 Simplimatic transmission. The wiring,vacuum and electrical controls are completely different between the two.
  8. c49er

    High idle

    Check for vacuum leaks...throttle body gasket leak?
  9. Add .002" cold....That's what I do on all the MoPar new flathead rebuilds... Then...adjust them HOT... Depending on year/model .008",.010" intake .010",.012" or .020" They must be adjusted hot as a final adjustment..
  10. I'll check back in a year for progress.
  11. The vacuum tank is a large reserve tank to supply extra needed vacuum for the frame mount brake booster and wipers when under a heavy load. Leave it. The booster might have it's own fresh filter air intake or use the air cleaner for filtering intake air to the booster. The frame mount booster requires both fresh intake air and full checked intake manifold vacuum. Leave the oil bath air cleaner as it is good at filtering air but also acts as a carb air intake silencer. Drive that bus for a bit without the air cleaner and you will see how loud the carb sucking noise is going up a hill!!!! Really loud. Get a factory service manual for your bus if you really want to understand how and why it operates.
  12. Great addition to this thread^^^^^
  13. You need new pistons and rings and a valve job.
  14. That radiator # 1494469 is for a 1953 to 54 MoPar V8 car. Reason is that 1494....came.out in 1953 and comes close to matching the numbers in the MoPar parts books. I found your rad # was updated to 1494643 in the 1961 MoPar Superceded parts.list book. That's all I can find on it. I think it's for a 53-54 chrysler V8 car myself. A lot of times the number on the part last few numbers never matches the parts books numbers..off by three.
  15. No total thickness specified but shows each asbestos plate thickness as .133" This for a 9-1/4" 1937 Ply clutch. National Data Service Book1948
  16. It's almost zero access to get to the plugs and yes those manifolds must be dealt with care.
  17. The biggest problem is access to the plug...remove the manifolds as an assembly. Then full access to the core plug.
  18. High tech modern chargers suck big time. Old time Transformer chargers for wet cell batteries are the way to go.
  19. Wow a lot of money back in 1918. 1018? Just havin fun. ^^^^^^
  20. The shop has changed hands 2-3 times..was in Seattle....then off to Ellensburg, Wash.....small time operation Owner operator...Buzz Raz...
  21. Ray Reis in Seattle had both a 5th Ave three pass S10 cpe...blue.. went to Sweden and a red 42 5th Ave S10 convert. He sold it after many years..went down south..Texas? Ray was extremely knowledgeable about all 42 sota's. He possibly still might have something as for parts...
  22. c49er

    Fluidrive interchange?

    Should bolt in fine.
  23. I have one of the Franklin Mint 1950 Chrysler Town and Country's.