c49er

Take good notes and pictures when taking a car apart...later to be put back together.

Inner cable is pulled out from the top.

Simply use a bearing splitter and a large two jaw puller. Be sure to leave the nut on flush to the top of the threads on the tube. I then push against a 7/16" or 1/2" bolt and washer that fits down into the steering tube. This makes sure the steering tube threads don't get damaged/crushed as those wheels are usually really tight to pull off.

Thanks.....I am addicted now too!

Hope they can keep it balanced.

Pressure relief valve sticking wide open hot.... Oil pu too high..or oil level low inaccurate Worn bearings...

That's Arnold the pig....Green Acres Riviera... is the place for you!😂

The p15/d24 pilothouse forum guys will know....

The carpet heel pad wouldn't be so trashed as is the front of the interior unless a pig drove it to 19,000 miles. The driver door hinges should have zero up down movement....engine should last longer than 19,000 too. Why would anyone let a super low milege car go to such waste?

Wow....19,000 original miles...and it needs the factory fan shroud? Hmmm.. Good to fix it up and enjoy for sure.

Glad to hear you sealed the big leaks!

Deleted...posted reply before reading old thread completely.🥴

I have rewired a couple 1941-48 wiper motors with the factory cloth cloth wiring. A bit tight and some what difficult. Have done lots of old MoPar cloth wiring resto work over the years.

That 4001 wiper motor pictured above is not a 1941-48 DeSoto/Chrysler wiper motor. EWH 4001 is the correct one. The pictured one is a later 1949 up wiper, maybe a EWJ 4001 which won't bolt up to your factory under side of cowl studs.

I appreciate your post! Your picture was great...thanks for posting it!👍 I use a single chain and "L" bracket attached by one head bolt when pulling straight eights and other flat heads out of my Chrysler/MoPar parts cars with a full size backhoe. Kinda brutal but have never dropped one.. the Chrysler 8's are around 850lbs. I never would use a single chain installing one in a car though.😯 Over the years have done many many engine R&R's of all types. We all have our own ways of getting things done.

I have only found one proper C39 cap years ago. I have always left my 1946-48 Chrysler "8" radiator caps slightly loose and the coolant level down a couple inches. The top tank is huge and deep. Coolant never runs or leaks out. This as a C39 Chrysler owner for over 40 years. You don't want a failure with that radiator! A very large and unique radiator as to the shape and size. Huge $$$$ to repair properly. Zero pressure for me. Your block/D tube and radiator hopefully has no sludge build up.🙂

I hate Horrow Freight...only thing I ever bought there was some lead cotter pins....they imediately wilted on my rear brake drum castilated hub nuts. Cheap crap.

Me....I'll use the chains/L brackets always...each to their own...be safe for sure. I don't want to drop an engine.

How many miles are on it please?

Idle mixture adjustment screws if possible should be adjusted using yourfingers.

These 3 speeds don't leak even with 75/90.... Clean the case good...wait and wstch where the leak starts or add dye and use a black light.

All MoPar flat heads take ported vacuum advance above the throttle plate...not full intake manifold vacuum. This with the Stromberg and Carter Ball and Ball carbs used on most all 218/230,236,251 and 265 car and 1/2 to 3/4 ton pu engines.

MoPar Industrial engines generally don't have vacuum advance distributors. In a car yes...better performance and better mpg. The compression #'s are low and kinda even...as long as it always starts and runs fair run it. Possibly worn ring lands and compression rings. Common in old high mileage/hours four ring MoPar flatheads. Run it...enjoy it!

There is no input shaft seal on that 3 speed. Was the bell housing to transmission gasket installed? Sometimes the countershaft that the cluster gear rides on will leak at the front end of the case. It is supposed to be a tight fit in the case....but have seen them get loose aad leak at the front lower case.