c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. If needed and always is on a quality brake job reline and new hydraulics.. Reline the shoes using lining material...... .180"thickness up to .030" oversize drums....... .200" for up to .060" over size drums ( too thick of lining on .030" and under drums and you won't get the drum on! The shoes have to fit even to the drum or the shoes twist....low pedal! Arc each set (2) of shoes to fit match each drum...find someone to do it... a big truck shop or brake rebuilder. Do this step! Move the shoes up/down to center them in the drum using the lower anchor bolts ....and them adjust them outward to lightly rub the drums for the last adjustment ( 1-1/16" hex bolt) in the middle of the backing plate. one for each shoe. READ your factory shop manual !!! Pictures showing arcing of MoPar shoes and doing a major adjustments with the ammco 1750 and the miller factory tool set.... pictures showing shoes that the linings don't match the drum at all. Also the tools to do the job quickly and correctly. But not available. Others can chime in on other cheater ways to get the shoes to fit the drums enough for wear in.
  2. I have have the same happen to my MoPar inline sixes and eights. Not too often but only when sitting. All with the rubber tipped needles. I just lightly rap the nose of the carb hearing the float drop. This never used to happen...might be the ethanol. I live with it. I have other things needing attention.
  3. PM me your address and I'll send you a couple.
  4. Shipping has turned into a real killer in the instance you just posted...those sellers are real asses for not understanding your situation and will lose a possible new loyal customer.
  5. I have purchased those horse shoe clips (Brake "C" clip washers) off Ebay and from Napa. Also might try Robert's Mopar, AMS, Bernbaums, Vintage Power Wagon just to name a few. You could if you must use a "E" clip or external snap ring. I have plenty of used ones if you cannot find them. One or two hits with the hammer and the wrench positioned firmly and equally on the clip legs normally won't damage the clip. The same clips are also used on all eight wheel cylinder anchor bolts too.
  6. How many EV cars will end up dead on the roads running low on charge? Owners trying so hard saying I think I can make it... A new huge market for EV tow trucks.
  7. Was the K car a reliable well built car? Not in my opinion... But when running ok and not leaking oil they drive ok. Used to work on them back when they were relatively new. JMO
  8. Yes ...#42 drill. You will probably not find the Miller tool #C-723. Probably has not been made for 60 years!
  9. I think the adjustment pin/rod diameter is a # 42 drill size.
  10. Read the factory shop manual for setting the "sisson" choke... A special sized rod was used for an accurate adjustment but a letter drill that fits tight will work.
  11. The accelerator pump piston pushes a strong jet of fuel up that drilled passage. Running rich on cold start... Is your electric choke adjusted too rich? Is this carb on a 46-48 chrysler Windsor/Royal or T&C sedan? Getting at is it the right carb for the car. Why does it run just right now with out the ball plug.... Wrong main/step rich up jets could mask a weak accelerator jet... Just speculating...don't know This advice is worth what you paid for it..I need to get back to my E7A1
  12. The drilled passage under that ball plug is pressurized with fuel each time the throttle is pressed forcing gas through the accelerator pump jet. There is an aluminum access plug right at the end of the jet too. With out that aluminum plug or the small missing steel ball plug in place place the strong accelerator jet stream will be lost out of the missing plug and not be completely forced through the accelerator jet into the venturi. The small steel ball approx .140" is firmly pressed into the top end portion of the accelerator pump drilled passage. After it was drilled a steel ball was pressed partially down into that drilled passage and staked. Some I've seen are not staked. That accelerator jet also has a hole in the side to push fuel into that small square box cavity to mix air/fuel for emulsion of the venturi jet spray.
  13. In one of my first posts I did say the ball seals off a drilled passage way🙂
  14. The plug ball is just bigger than the hole. .It is pressed just to just slightly above the casting and staked in place. Last year I also rebuilt a carb with that ball missing...a core carb. I did measure the diameter but don't now remember the size. That is not a check ball. It must be in place to make the accelerator pump jet have a 100% strong squirt into the venturing area....otherwise fuel will spray up through the missing ball hole and do nothing but possibly cause a hesitation on quick hard acceleration.
  15. It's just a ball plug to seal off the end of a drilled passage way. Put the right size ball back in as OE. I have the same carbs on my MoPars.
  16. The 1951 131" WB NewYorker wagon is an extremely low production wagon of the 1951-1952 models. 251 were produced..it used the heavy suspension components and brakes/booster with the 331 Hemi. I have only seen one. The front end is six inches longer than the Windsor or Saratoga 125" WB cars and has more ornate die cast grille and front end chrome. The 1951-52 Windsor and Saratoga wagons are basically the same car on a 125" WB...not trimmed out quite as nice as the top of the line NewYorker wagon only built in 51. The Saratoga wagon had the 331 hemi ..the Windsor had the 251 or 265 flathead six. The 265 started in 1952. 1967 of the Windsors and 1967 Saratogas supposedly were made in 1951-52 model years (70 Years of Chrysler). Front ends and trim is the same on the Windsor/Saratoga cars. The Saratoga having more performance than the Windsor No Imperial station wagons were ever produced in the 1951-52 model years. There is a or was a Windsor wagon just south of Seattle I used to see and the NewYorker wagon was in Rainier Valley in Seattle back in the late 70's. Beige was the color of both.
  17. That is one nice Chrysler Windsor wagon...most are pretty rusty and had a rough life. Nice to finally see a real good original one!
  18. Keith is right...you must have to remove the big over center spring nut to relieve tension on the spring...my bad I thought 53's were the same as 1946 thru 1952 six and eight Chrysler cars. Just screw the nut back on exactly as it was.🙂
  19. Slides out of the metal retainer groove next to the wind lace. Pull it Towards the front of the car. The kick panel is very rigid and it's packed tight in the lower A pillar area with the cables and E-brake. Just did some on a 300C.
  20. I knock the 2 outer horse shoe clips off each end of the master cylinder pedal shaft using the two jaws of an open end 13/16 wrench hitting the other end of the wrench. Remove the 2 steel brake fluid lines..top booster bleed back and 1 rear line. Remove both pedal smaller return springs... Also remove both the clutch and brake adjustable push rods...NOTE Be aware to not let the clutch pedal slam down and whack you! With out the clutch linkage push rod installed on the clutch pedal if you push or pull on it, it can slam down to the frame...watch it! If it does leave it down or just push or pull it back up depending if you are under or up in the car. This only with the big clutch pedal assist spring still connected. As Keith shows and advises remove the big nut on the rear of the spring to relieve tension to remove this spring. Now remove the three master cylinder mounting bolts. With the three bolts out now you can remove the pedals and M/ cylinder up and out of the car with the floor panel removed. Then slip both pedals off the pivot shaft and press the pivot shaft out of the cylinder. I usually do not remove the floor pan for typical master cylinder replacement...no need and saves a lot of time. I just remove the cylinder from underneath by maneuvering the cylinder enough to slip each pedal off the pivot shaft (the horse shoe clips are already removed) leaving the pedals hanging in the floor pan. Then pulling cylinder down and out of car for replacement. This way does require horse shoe clip removal on the car. If you do remove the floor pan for access then the clips can be removed after the cylinder and pedals are pulled out from above. Take pictures and you will have to re- adjust both clutch and brake pedal free play on re- assembly so take note of both before dis- assembly! Shown is using the factory horse shoe clip tool and a cheater open end wrench to remove clips.
  21. Grinding into reverse (a non synchro gear) means clutch is not releasing. So....is the pressure plate pulling back away from the clutch disc .020-.050" ? Is the clutch disc bent enough from improper trans install or removal causing input shaft drag.. Maybe the pilot bushings are dragging on the input shaft..called up. Normally there should be 1" of pedal free play...lengthen the clutch fork rod just enough to get rid of the free play...if there is still grinding you need to pull the lower cast bell housing cover for more serious inspection. Fluids in the FD or trans won't affect releasing the clutch. Hopefully the over center spring adjustment has not been changed from factory setting....somewhat hard to adjust correctly with out the Miller tool which is not available.
  22. You didn't road test with the seller and know that reverse was pull back and up? Rusty posted the correct shifter pattern Find an original owners AND Shop manual and read them so you will understand the basic operation and service of your C38 model Chrysler with the M5 Hydraulically Operated Transmission with the Fluid Coupling. You also need to have a very good E-Brake to prevent a roll away.
  23. Original manifold with the front outlet welded on Extremely common to find this being done...even now days..George Ashe does em.
  24. Also a old company near Seattle/ Tacoma..."Red Head Steering Gears" Auburn, Washington 1 (800 ) 808-1148