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Everything posted by c49er

  1. Yes...just barely enough to push the shaft out of the handle....once down to the little washer...remove it and see if it will push out...if not continue just enough till it will push out. Grind it flat as you go as you will need some of the shaft to still stick up beyond the counter sunk hole in the handle. This so you can drill and tap or re-flare the shaft end to retain it firmly but still able to rotate that shaft with out excessive looseness. The cup spring/ wave washer on it when new always keeps tension on the shaft so there is no loose shaft play. Hopefully you can reassemble
  2. I also have a 15 year old real commercial Rotary 12,000lb open front 4 poster. A real quality lift...but$$$$.
  3. A real "Commercial Rotary" or a DIY home owner full import Rotary branded under different names?
  4. I've had a HD 14 Bendpak for 11 years... never a problem.. They custom built it for me too. Extra long, extra tall 2 rolling jacks.
  5. Some more description pics...some pieces are not original...just shown to show orientation/description I don't have any floppy's apart with all good parts....very hard to come by.
  6. If your floppy handles all feel tight.. not loose and they actually feel like the floppy spring works (holds/ pulls the floppy) back against the handle then all your handles should have all usable parts.. *Flipper spring *detent plunger *detent plunger spring *handle swivel pivot shaft bore not loose/worn *swivel pivot shaft not worn *swivel pivot shaft cupped spring washer (small tension washer ...keeps firm tension on swivel shaft while turning floppy). Right under flared end of shaft. The detent plunger and spring fit into a drilled 3/4" deep hole hole i
  7. You have to use a very high quality correct sized punch .060" to push that tiny short pin down .330" so the plastic can be removed. I used a stubby .060" punch when I had to take one apart. I never had to drill the pin out. Be careful when removing the plastic insert as the plunger and spring could shoot out or fall out upon removal. There is no other hole than the tiny pin insertion hole....060". In pic #4 it sure did look like it. I re-posted better pics of the floppy chrome part. Also you have to carefully grind down or drill out the end of the swivel pivot sh
  8. Pivot stud 1st and 3rd pics. 3rd pic shows flared over end. Some flared ends of the stud are just flat. Somewhere I have the plastic insert to show but can't find it. This is now an easy project to take these apart and then get them back together tight and operating like new. A very costly and hard part to find piece in good condition.
  9. Push the tiny pin into the plastic insert...then pull the plastic insert out. The flared over pivot stud needs to be drilled out to remove the lavalier floppy handle. You will need to make new pivot studs to re-assemble.
  10. It's the six hour airplane trip I'm concerned about....nope.
  11. This thread is so lame. Did the OP think of these items.... Do the headlights come on bright? Do the heaflights stay on bright while trying to crank the engine? Does the horn or heater sound strong? Does the dome light come on bright? Simple quick electrical system tests when not having a volt meter. Regardless....A voltage test really needs to be done on the battery sitting and while under cranking load.. ..cable connections checked cleaned well... If the starter still will not crank...check for voltage at starter cable connection sitting and when
  12. That a Miller 232 steering wheel puller that also came with a thick protective leather backup collar. I use mine occasionally. I have a friend of has one too. Took four years to find one for him though. It is a rare tool for sure. I have a lot of 30s' 40's Miller MoPar service tools...use them doing mechanic work.
  13. Go to the p15-d24 board website....find downloads...download the copy of the over center spring tool. Line up the three holes in the tool with the three pivot pins by adjusting the turn buckle. Adjust the clutch fork free play to 1" first. Shown is the factory Miller tool being used on a 1948 Chrysler T&C.
  14. I have a running twin carb 306 Moly Block.
  15. That small six sided part is the interrupter switch. It is one very costly part if you can find one. They are a single stud interrupter switch. 1949 and later are two terminal and cheap. The drivers side fender well mounted transmission 6 volt relay # HRM-4102 is a five terminal six volt Autolite relay. Wiring diagrams are online. >>>>>>System will only work using six volts. Be careful rewiring this M-5 transmission...do it exactly as the wiring diagram is shown for all 1946-48 chryslers.
  16. Too many wrecking yard owners want too much $$$ so possibly good projects end up getting scrapped. They don't care.
  17. Do you have the OE Part # to search it online?
  18. Good question. Hope they are OK... Not a good time to be traveling.
  19. Yeah... Unless it's a rare car nobody is really serious on parts or whole car.. And the shipping costs Too bad
  20. I did a restoration on a 1935 CW Airflow. It used the same rollers but made with a stamped roller mount base. Maybe the smaller more common Airflows used the same...possible source.
  21. The ladies dress..cool A lady driving the car cool The house is so so cool Cool photo!
  22. Arcing linings to fit drum....Misc adjusting shoes
  23. Types of Lockheed push rods, length and piston design and general piston height/length .. Piston length/height measured with Starrett ball micrometer from piston push rod radius socket to rear backside of piston. This measurement plus either return spring, piston stop button or bottom piston rubber cup determine how far the pistons can be bottomed out in front single cylinder lockheed front MoPar brake systems. Which also can be a factor if the new brake shoes can be retracted enough.for drums to be installed. There are also different length's of push rods that were availab
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