c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. A too high of idle speed can cause delayed upshifts..idle seed needed 450 500. A worn shrunken accelerator pump piston leather cup or plugged jet can cause acceleration hesitation. Step up piston could be stinking or stuck too.
  2. Some Misc.Carter Anti Stall pics...single and dual terminal And the Kick down SW and info...There are two styles of this Anti-Stall solenoids ... a single terminal and a two terminal for the 1942-53 Chrysler carter carbs with FD and M-5 or M-6 transmissions..
  3. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia....... A velocity stack', 'trumpet, or air horn, is a trumpet-shaped device of differing lengths which is fitted to the air entry of an engine's intake system, carburetor or fuel injection. The Anti Stall component mounted on top of the carb is a small solenoid that causes a slow return to idle preventing the engine from stalling coming to a sudden stop. It is energized when the trans governor points are closed pulling a small steel ball onto it's seat blocking off the main dash pot plunger port forcing the fuel through a small port . The dash pot plunger is connected to the carburetor base throttle linkage This causes the dash pot plunger to return slower to the idle position in it's bore. So when coming to a sudden hard stop this prevents the possibility of the engine stalling out. Used only on cars with a fluid drive and the M-5 and M-6 transmissions. Also there is a mechanical type dash pot used on some model of cars.
  4. Here's where to ID the carb.. top of air horn..this is a Ball and Ball off a Dodge truck..
  5. I thought only the long 145" wheel base Crown Imperials had the vacuum cylinder can brake booster .
  6. A stuck clutch on a Fluid Drive Mopar usually requires removing the lower cover and using a thin blade to wedge the disc loose with the clutch pedal pushed down. There is no shock load to break the clutch disc loose because of the fluid coupling. I had replaced a clutch in a 1948 Chrysler 2 weeks prior to the customer parking the car over his new shop concrete slab. A week later the clutch was stuck. I had to pry the disc loose... surface rusting from moisture coming up from the new concrete.
  7. c49er

    50 Windsor

    I should have stated to use a 10"-15" stiff wire as I do. No danger of it falling in or bending.
  8. Those lavaliere flippers have always been very pricey. They were $20.00 or more back in the 70's. Unless you got very lucky at a swap meet and the seller didn't know what they fit and the rarity of them. The Lucite clear one is the 1946-48 Chrysler mid to upper line cars. The middle is 1941-42 Chrysler and bottom is 1949-53 2 dr rear... short handle ...some models.
  9. I used to see those license frames here in Seattle all the time...absolutely of no value till today! Maybe a want ad in the Seattle craigslist might find one.
  10. Presto-Matic was the name of the semi-automatic 2 range transmission with the Fluid drive coupling used in 1949-50 Chryslers. That is a mint mint Chrysler. The steering wheel doesn't even have a crack....this is the one to buy if that' fits the bill.
  11. I have one...I don't text..PM me if interested.
  12. That does look like it would do the job on 1950 and later MoPar internal E-Brakes on the M-6 and later Automatics...I've done many with the factory Miller tool.
  13. I might.... have the correct one... a 2 bolt ( not the later 1946-50 4 bolt) exhaust flange but it will be a complete 3 piece manifold. They are very difficult to separate. I will look this weekend. Shipping and crating will be costly I'm afraid.
  14. I patch my old tubes too... never an issue. New Chinese tubes are garbage..... paper thin.
  15. 6 quarts to fill the pan to the full on the dip stick... I just fixed this same issue on a 1950 Chrysler T&C. Going around the corner with a full pan and losing oil pressure is the clue of a oil PU float set too high.
  16. c49er

    50 Windsor

    The 230 engine has a head length of approx. 23"... the 251 head is 25" long ... To check the engine's stroke length.. There is a 7/16" hex plug over # 6 cylinder... remove it and measure the piston stoke length with a straight piece of coat hanger or welding rod inserted down to the piston top. Rotate the engine over and measure the up down movement of the rod .......4-1/2" is a 251.... 4-5/8" is a 230
  17. c49er

    50 Windsor

    A crow foot used to remove starter bolt....
  18. Those 323 three piece exhaust manifolds tend to break too..
  19. They might have siliconed it on too. The pan on all the 323's come straight off...easily. Work it carefully off with a wedge type tool...wide thin screw driver etc. The oil PU float tangs are bent wrong letting the PU float ride to high for the full oil level...
  20. c49er

    50 Windsor

    I use a crow foot, 5/8 swivel and a short 5/8" combo wrench to pull starters on 46-52 Mopars.
  21. It's made of recycled dog poop. That's why it smells like that. But really it's the type of material used back in the day....cellulose acetate butyrate. When it starts to break down it smells awful.
  22. I have a couple of them...rare breed...
  23. I also use the same battery as above in most of my six volt cars and trucks... a group #4 six volt...long lasting and very powerful. I have to make up new hold downs.
  24. c49er

    50 Windsor

    You have to take the starter out to properly check it out and repair it...probably a solenoid issue?
  25. c49er

    50 Windsor

    If the battery is over 3-4 years old get a new fully charged battery. Don't waste your time charging an old battery. Get a New group 2 six volt battery. Then try starting it before tearing into the starter. The positive battery cable connects to the block as the ground cable. Negative cable to the starter solenoid