c49er

Too many wrecking yard owners want too much $$$ so possibly good projects end up getting scrapped. They don't care.

Do you have the OE Part # to search it online?

Good question. Hope they are OK... Not a good time to be traveling.

Yeah... Unless it's a rare car nobody is really serious on parts or whole car.. And the shipping costs Too bad

Arcing brakes shoe...

I did a restoration on a 1935 CW Airflow. It used the same rollers but made with a stamped roller mount base. Maybe the smaller more common Airflows used the same...possible source.

The ladies dress..cool A lady driving the car cool The house is so so cool Cool photo!

Arcing linings to fit drum....Misc adjusting shoes

Types of Lockheed push rods, length and piston design and general piston height/length .. Piston length/height measured with Starrett ball micrometer from piston push rod radius socket to rear backside of piston. This measurement plus either return spring, piston stop button or bottom piston rubber cup determine how far the pistons can be bottomed out in front single cylinder lockheed front MoPar brake systems. Which also can be a factor if the new brake shoes can be retracted enough.for drums to be installed. There are also different length's of push rods that were available...generally short rods on dual cylinder front brakes... longer push rods on single cylinder rear brakes. Over the years piston styles and push rods.... changed and got mixed up causing difficulties of drums not being able to be installed no matter how you adjusted all cams...especially if shoes are too thick..over .180" factory max spec.

I forgot to tell you I cannot answer if piston color means anything as to size. I have seen gold ones like yours. I guess for future reference I should gather them all up and measure piston heights. Won't matter as to which push rods you use. Rods sometimes are at a very slight angle. Make sure they are seated as you know. In your case the shortest push rod is the only choice. Use them if you have them.... I will check to see what is the shortest rods later today just to see. I think 1-1/8" is it. I arc the linings which I always do to to accurately pre-fit each shoe to each drum. Does not take too much over size lining to create drums from slipping over the shoes.

Possibly the carb needle/seat is leaking and flooding the cylinders Washing down the cylinders. Loss of compression end result. Plugs black or wet with fuel possible. Maybe install new needle/seat...lube the cylinders again lightly, new plugs and fire it up.

You should hunt up the shorter push rods.....easiest solution looks like. Your problem is very common. I can measure one if you need.

Well then.... All that is left...taller different design pistons... * Re-use your old pistons * Use shorter push rods ( yours have a tiny hole at the open end slot? * Have the lining ground down on a lining arcer

These are your possibilities... 1) New linings are thicker than new OE .180" 2) Anchor cam bolts are not rotated to let shoe retract 3) Wheel cylinder replacement push rods too long...some are longer than others.. 4) New replacement wheel cylinder pistons too tall....there are three different wheel cylinder piston styles.. ****When the drums have been turned usually .040" or more generally there is no trouble getting the drums on after retracting the shoes. This by retracting the cam and anchor bolts fully. Brake linings should be no thicker than 3/16".....180".

Trans full of fluid, idle speed 500 or less...wiring pulled off.solenoid...still will not immediately upshift..... Trans then most likely will need a new direct speed blocker ring and sleeve. They do fail...I have replaced quite a few over the years.

1154 is the correct bulb #. Bulbs can be installed only the correct way. Connect four alligator test leads...one at each light socket base to use as a temporary grounding wire to see if the bulbs are all bright and working and blink at a normal rate. And that non working bulb....if it still won't light with a ground test lead wiggle the bulb in the socket...still won't work try another good quality bulb. Basically as auburnseeker said. I have owned many 49 - 52 MoPars with.this same issue. Usually bad bulb, weak socket ground, or a bad flasher .

Are both bulbs real bright and strong on the left turn? Same brightness as right turn? If not you have a bad bulb or weak socket ground...that would be noted by a dim bulb and no turn signal flashing... So try this ...... If the LS turn signal bulbs are bright and strong like the properly right side turn signal bulbs.. With the turn signal switch on left turn..very lightly wiggle the lever up/down to see if you can find a spot the left signals will begin to flash.. If it now works... dirty switch contacts. Otherwise as already mentioned try another flasher. Modern chinese 6 volt flashers are very very poor quality. You Need to find a "Heavy Duty" NOS Tung Sol # 535 six volt flasher. Not a new NAPA 535...that will flash too fast and no audible clicking...chinese made. Does the T/signal green light in the speedo flash on rt turns?

It's funny back in the day when say that 1951Buick Roadmaster was new petite ladies had no issue driving a car like that.Nor did the 140 lb gentleman. Now days a lot of people are a bit delicate and need things to be effortless. Me ....I have my newer vehicles but really like driving my big , my old heavy and slow to respont cars. Plenty good and fun as they are. My low mileage 50 NewYorker Newport Hardtop is one of them. I Love it. To the OP maybe the Buick forum people here can help you out on the PS.

You will never get a good firm high brake pedal unless the shoe lining arc matches the drum surface 95%. This if the lining radius is smaller then that of the brake drum. Thst's why brake shoes were arced to fit each drum for fast wear in and good pedal feel. Unless this procedure is done when needed proper toe and heel clearances will be wrong or not attainable. Yes I know those machines were outlawed back in the late 80's because of asbestos. Today the cost of any old used ammco/Star brake lining arcer is through the roof because of how quickly they eliminate new brake job issues on lockheed style brakes.

That one looks like my 1951-52 Plymouth's... It fits earlier years too. A very common part on ebay and at swap meets.

I'll add a couple things.. Smell the fuel in the gas tank... If it smells like varnish do not let it get pumped into the carb by turning the engine over....remove the fuel line from the carb or pump before even turning the engine over. The old gas is probably by now root beer colored...nasty stuff varnished fuel. The tank and fuel lines/ hoses will need to be removed and cleaned or replaced as with the fuel pump. The carb...rebuild... I don't know if that engine has a rope type rear main seal but if it does some caution about a dried up rear main seal from years of sitting.. ..they can stick to the crankshaft because of lack of oil in the fibers of that seal..upon start up the rope seal can tear apart and a severe leaking rear main leak can be the end result...to help prevent this....put 4- 5 gallons of a thin oil, kerosene etc in the engine to get the seals wet with oil...letting it soak a couple days....then turn the engine over by hand at the ring gear or front crank nut...oil in the cylinders too. If the rear main is a rubber lip type no special warnings. Get the oil pressure up before starting with the spark plugs out and by cranking it over till the oil light goes out or gauge shows pressure...

We will agree to disagree then🙂 I have done many vintage car brake jobs...a lot of modern linings can be grabby or not so... The late 30's thru mid 50's MoPars with lockheed brakes have some special brake adjustment requirements...Ammco 1750 or Miller MT19 tools and a shoe arcer which I use on all the brake jobs....a must to make the brakes right from the start. Most of todays modern linings on the Lockheed type shoes don't give a safe feeling when stopping and are weak at best under. Can be grabby upon 1st few stops and after heating up too soft and weak under hard braking. JMO

I strongly suggest asbestos shoes as mentioned^^^^..not the modern slow and soft stop lining material probably made in a far off country of clay and charcoal.

The designation for the above Chrysler marine straight "8" also known as the "Royal" Chrysler marine M-43-S engine. The Chrysler straight "8" industrial engines also have a brass ID tag generally on the right rear of the block .. Industrial 8's will have a IND9, IND12, OR IND12A Stamped tags...could be a couple more designations too. The industrial 8 shown above is a IND12.

DOT 5 CANNOT be used in any newer cars with ABS systems... Most all modern cars specify 3 or 4. No way I know of to tell the difference between them DOT 3 AND 4 fluids. I have to check for DOT 3 AND 5 fluids in vintage cars quite a bit when doing brake jobs..The customers don"t know!