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1950Dodge

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About 1950Dodge

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  1. Following your advice, I did the following: Check all 4 lights with the engine off (generator not charging the battery), results: Directionals off, checking lights only: right rear, left rear, and left front bulbs light up, right front bulb does not light up. Start car, generator charging: All lights light up, same brightness. Directionals on, engine not running (battery only): all directionals flash much faster than normal, but are very dim. Directionals on, engine running: same, but directional lights are brighter. Additionally, my ammeter shows a constant state
  2. auburnseeker, Thank you for that advice. I didn't know that the flasher could lose just one side of operation. I will check that, and hopefully that will fix it, because getting at the switch is not easy as you say, the wheel has to be pulled.
  3. My 1950 Dodge Coronet D34 Sedan has the optional factory-installed (integral with the steering column, not added on) directional signal. It worked fine until yesterday; now it flashes for right-hand turns, but nothing for left. Replaced left front and left rear bulbs (1154 6 volt), and the lights work, but no flash. Usually when a bulb is out, that side will flash rapidly, but there is no flashing either front or rear left. Again, flashing OK on right front and rear. So, what should I suspect? Flasher, directional switch bad on left only, wiring problem? Any insight will be appreciated
  4. All the literature and classic car databases I have seen concerning drive lines for the 1949-1952 Dodge Coronet (mine is a 1950 D34) say that the axle ratio on the 3-speed manual models is 3.9. That is incorrect. All 1949 Dodges came standard equipment with Fluid Drive, which is NOT the transmission; it is a hydraulic (fluid) coupling that takes the place of the conventional flywheel. With the fluid drive, you had a choice of two transmissions: a conventional 3-speed manual that did not shift by itself, or a Gyro-Matic transmission, a so-called semi-automatic which was in realit
  5. "How do you know if oil is actually going through the bypass filter?" Easy. After the engine is warm, feel the outside of the canister (side away from the engine block). If it is warm, oil is flowing through the canister. I would question the 50% in 60 minutes result. If you look at the link I provided in the original post, you will see that a filtration engineer did some tests, and his results showed a much better turn than that. My own observation is that the oil flows through pretty quickly, a sad lesson I learned when I did my first filter change on my old Dodge and the gasket did
  6. Thanks for the response. My car has a cigar lighter, a clock, and integral (with the steering column--not tacked on) directional signal lever. All of these were "options" on this car, so I am guessing that that is what the Accessory group consisted of, because there is no listing of those individual items on the build card. "Heater" and "Radio" are listed as individual items, so those could be ordered separately, it appears. I have the Accessories and the Heater, but no radio, and that is how it shows on the card. I am going to guess that "1" under Transmission is the 3-speed manual, bec
  7. Finally got the build card and certificate from Chrysler Historical. The problem is, they can't furnish the "decoder" matrix. The only thing I know is that the color is "05," which is "LaPlata Blue." I know this because I do have a paint code matrix, but I don't have the chip showing me what kind of blue it is (light, dark?). So here are the other codes: Access Group 5, Transm 1, Stone SHLD 1, Spec Tires. Can anyone tell me what these mean? Thanks
  8. In 1954, you could still get a Dodge gyro-matic (the M6 so-called semi automatic transmission), same thing as the tip-toe shift. I think the last year for the M6 in the Desoto and Chrysler lines was 1953. You could also get the Plymouth Hy-Drive transmission in 1954. That was a 3-speed manual transmission with a clutch behind an engine oil fed torque converter. A high school friend had a '54 Dodge with the gryo-matic. The car had been his father's. He told me his father liked the M-6 transmission, but he had to special order it from the dealer because there were none on lots in his area.
  9. There is nothing wrong with wanting to convert a 6 volt classic to 12 volts. There are many good reasons for doing so. If you want to add modern conveniences such as air conditioning or a state-of-the art sound system, 12 volts is a must. A 12 volt upgrade is the best way to increase the power output of your system, and if you need to do that, I certainly recommend a conversion.<o:p></o:p> That said, however, if your intent is to leave the car stock without adding accessories, I vote for keeping the car 6 volts. An early ‘50’s 6-volt cruiser will not run any better if it is con
  10. I’m tired of reading on internet blogs and forums about how “ineffective” a by-pass filter system is on our old cars. I’ve even seen posts and comments from supposed knowledgeable mechanics that advise against adding back the by-pass circuit when doing rebuilds of engines that have them.<o:p></o:p> I’ve got one of these systems on my 1950 Dodge Coronet, and all this “ineffective filter” commentary was counter-intuitive. Why did manufacturers add them? Cadillac, known for its superior engineering, used a by-pass filter on its new 1949 OV design, and did not change to full-flow fi
  11. Biscayne, I agree with your analysis. 5 years ago, almost no FOR SALE signs on cars at shows. Now, they are commonplace. Older folks (like me) realizing that working on/maintaining the old iron becomes more difficult as time marches on. I'm 67 years old and on my last old car, a 1950 Dodge Coronet. I've decided to maintain it and drive it until either it or I won't go any more. Flathead 6, 3-speed manual transmission behind a fluid drive unit (Not the M6, a real 3-speed), on the original 6 volt system (works just fine, thanks), and not one breakdown in the 8 years I've had it. Drive it
  12. Apart from the 1973 Chevvy Bel Air, the 3-speed manual column shift car that surprised me the most was a 1970 Dodge, either a Monaco or a Polara, I don't remember which. It was a 4-door sedan with a 318, power steering, power brakes, and 3-speed manual coumn shift. Here's the story, which I got from the owner when I saw the car for the first time in late 1973: The owner always owned Oldsmobiles and always had 3-speed standards in them. It was time to trade in his 63 Olds standard shift for a new model so he went to the local Olds Dealer who told him he could not get the car that way. The l
  13. Great discussion. To Tomcarnut: your dad did not have the only 1971 full-size Chevrolet with a 3-speed stick. I had one too. It was a '71 Biscayne (entry level model) with a 250 cu in 6, 3 on the column, power steering and power brakes. I bought the car used in 1973 when I got out of the Army. It had 42,000 miles on it and I paid $975 for it from the local Chrysler-Plymouth dealer who had taken it in trade. That price included a new clutch disc and TO bearing. It was also the first car I owned with PS and PB. I believe the PS and PB came standard on the car, which is probably why Mr.
  14. You could not get a 1973 Impala or Caprice with the three-speed (column) manual. Only the Bel Air, and only in 6-cylinder form. That is what the guy who had the '73 Bel Air told me.
  15. The last year for a full-size standard manual shift US car was 1973, and the car offering it was the Chevrolet (Bel Air model). Interestingly, that car was also available in six cylinders, and in fact, if you wanted the six, the only available transmission was the column-mounted three speed manual. I believe this is the only example of a 1970's US full size car that was available only with a manual transmission. What prompts this posting is that I actually recently saw a '73 Bel Air with the 3-speed/6 cylinder at a local car show. I would guess that less than 1000 of these were actually pr
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