c49er

On the outside just down from the top curve of frame towards the rear.

The engine # is on the LR frame just as ply33 says...

The axle puller on the seat is worth 20 bucks.

Best bet maybe remove a couple main and rod caps just to see if the bearings are completely dry. Some assembly lubes we're white assembly paste....I've seen that dry up and turn hard after time.

The engine really should be running before you will see much oil oozing/ spashing in the lifter area's of both straight 8's. If I were you I would use an engine pre-oiler pressure tank..to pre lube both engines thoroughly as they have been sitting so long. Turning the engine over 90 degree's at a time while pushing oil into the main galley. Running 2-3 quarts into the engine. The 323 being hard to turn over is concerning. The 385 looks to have progressive wound valve springs...tighter wound coil at one end. Generally the tighter wound end always goes to the block not the valve retainer. The 323's are this way as are all the MoPar sixes up to and including the 377/413 truck sixes.

He's probably looking for the special fittings at the wheel cylinders or up by.the M/cylinder....can be tough to find.

^^^^^👍

High quality commercial lifts do not de-rate load capacity on WB length... Most all hobby lifts do.

If you are a real car guy...a lift and a good air compressor are a must...JMO.

Yes...just barely enough to push the shaft out of the handle....once down to the little washer...remove it and see if it will push out...if not continue just enough till it will push out. Grind it flat as you go as you will need some of the shaft to still stick up beyond the counter sunk hole in the handle. This so you can drill and tap or re-flare the shaft end to retain it firmly but still able to rotate that shaft with out excessive looseness. The cup spring/ wave washer on it when new always keeps tension on the shaft so there is no loose shaft play. Hopefully you can reassemble just as tight as it was before you have taken it apart.

I also have a 15 year old real commercial Rotary 12,000lb open front 4 poster. A real quality lift...but$$$$.

A real "Commercial Rotary" or a DIY home owner full import Rotary branded under different names?

I've had a HD 14 Bendpak for 11 years... never a problem.. They custom built it for me too. Extra long, extra tall 2 rolling jacks.

Some more description pics...some pieces are not original...just shown to show orientation/description I don't have any floppy's apart with all good parts....very hard to come by.

If your floppy handles all feel tight.. not loose and they actually feel like the floppy spring works (holds/ pulls the floppy) back against the handle then all your handles should have all usable parts.. *Flipper spring *detent plunger *detent plunger spring *handle swivel pivot shaft bore not loose/worn *swivel pivot shaft not worn *swivel pivot shaft cupped spring washer (small tension washer ...keeps firm tension on swivel shaft while turning floppy). Right under flared end of shaft. The detent plunger and spring fit into a drilled 3/4" deep hole hole in the plastic insert. Helps keep the floppy under firm spring tension when you grab/ use it. When the insert is pulled out of the chrome floppy housing the plunger and spring will want to come out possibly fast...watch it. "Will the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring come out through the floppy, out the plastic insert end?" .........yes it will I have both drilled and tapped the swivel stud using a 6-32 screw and re-flared same to retain and tension the swivel stud. Re-flaring is very difficult to do properly. Parts are not available unless you are good at sourcing them from commercial sources. Don't damage the good parts you have. This is not an easy project unless you are mechanically well skilled and have total confidence going in head first! My pictures are of one real nice complete original handle and pieces from three cores...none had the plunger and springs...I laid out just to give you an idea what these handles consist of.

You have to use a very high quality correct sized punch .060" to push that tiny short pin down .330" so the plastic can be removed. I used a stubby .060" punch when I had to take one apart. I never had to drill the pin out. Be careful when removing the plastic insert as the plunger and spring could shoot out or fall out upon removal. There is no other hole than the tiny pin insertion hole....060". In pic #4 it sure did look like it. I re-posted better pics of the floppy chrome part. Also you have to carefully grind down or drill out the end of the swivel pivot shaft stud as that's necessary to remove it from the handle shaft. Be careful not to damage the cup spring washer. With the plastic insert pulled out of the floppy the swivel stud and cross pin with 2nd spring will come out. The pin you drove into the plastic insert is there forever. To re-install the plastic insert flip it over opposite what it was... Insert it into the re-assembled handle...drill a new .060" hole down into the plastic...insert a new .400" long .060" pin back through the original floppy pin hole just flush as original. The plastic insert is the very last part to install when re-assembling one of these handles. The swivel stud,spring plunger etc.all has to be installed first. I'll let you decide when and how.... I'm wore out. These handles were never made to be taken apart and repaired. You bought a new one at the dealer. The handles I just took apart were missing the plunger and correct spring...very common. These handles could be easily worn out if not carefully lubed and used gently. Pretty but not practical. Some more pics.

Pivot stud 1st and 3rd pics. 3rd pic shows flared over end. Some flared ends of the stud are just flat. Somewhere I have the plastic insert to show but can't find it. This is now an easy project to take these apart and then get them back together tight and operating like new. A very costly and hard part to find piece in good condition.

Push the tiny pin into the plastic insert...then pull the plastic insert out. The flared over pivot stud needs to be drilled out to remove the lavalier floppy handle. You will need to make new pivot studs to re-assemble.

It's the six hour airplane trip I'm concerned about....nope.

This thread is so lame. Did the OP think of these items.... Do the headlights come on bright? Do the heaflights stay on bright while trying to crank the engine? Does the horn or heater sound strong? Does the dome light come on bright? Simple quick electrical system tests when not having a volt meter. Regardless....A voltage test really needs to be done on the battery sitting and while under cranking load.. ..cable connections checked cleaned well... If the starter still will not crank...check for voltage at starter cable connection sitting and when attempting to crank engine...if full 6.2 volts at starter and still won't crank...starter contacts most likely 1st check with starter still in car... if they are OK.....next and last ...pull starter to find deeper issue...kinda un likely need to do this last option.

That a Miller 232 steering wheel puller that also came with a thick protective leather backup collar. I use mine occasionally. I have a friend of has one too. Took four years to find one for him though. It is a rare tool for sure. I have a lot of 30s' 40's Miller MoPar service tools...use them doing mechanic work.

Go to the p15-d24 board website....find downloads...download the copy of the over center spring tool. Line up the three holes in the tool with the three pivot pins by adjusting the turn buckle. Adjust the clutch fork free play to 1" first. Shown is the factory Miller tool being used on a 1948 Chrysler T&C.

I have a running twin carb 306 Moly Block.

That small six sided part is the interrupter switch. It is one very costly part if you can find one. They are a single stud interrupter switch. 1949 and later are two terminal and cheap. The drivers side fender well mounted transmission 6 volt relay # HRM-4102 is a five terminal six volt Autolite relay. Wiring diagrams are online. >>>>>>System will only work using six volts. Be careful rewiring this M-5 transmission...do it exactly as the wiring diagram is shown for all 1946-48 chryslers.