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jeff53

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  1. Great photos and will help a lot later-- But what I'm trying to figure out is when it comes time and the vent windows are ready to go back in.. . I know I would normally just reverse the process and put them in the way they came out... and there in lies the problem- I didn't take them out and can only assume how they go back in. and without actually knowing or seeing them being taken out. I don't know if I should try and put them back in 1st before the door channels and window- or after the door window. My main concern is by not doing it in the correct sequence-I may end up breaking or scratch
  2. Has anyone ordered headliners- specifically for a '48 4 door Pontiac.. I know there are several companies. I was going to order one from Kanter or J.C. Whitney... And does anyone have a lead on a youtube video on "Taking out and vent window". I can find a ton of videos- all trucks and newer than '48-that show the vent window already out. But can't find a single one on how they are taking out.. The reason I ask the question this way is a shop took them out. and it's up to me to finish the job.not sure if anything is missing or not (yet)
  3. These bows were inside a pontiac at a junkyard . Headliner was still covering them, so I don't think it was made as a hippie thing. I just thought it may be original to the year and car. They came out of a 1948 Pontiac and the headliner looked original.
  4. Trim 71-,Paint# 18,Top-ACC.,Style 48-2609DN#C5019 Vin#c5019 Fisher body Style-B- I did order 1 interchangeable book by GM covering years 46-53 Chevy-Pontiac-Buick and Olds, I got several books from "Faxon and they are terrible- but non returnable because "they are book". If you're old enough you probably remember xerox machines where the copies came out so bad and dark you couldn't make any details out. Also the watermark in the upholstery book is dark enough and right on top of some printing it's hard to read.... My car runs okay- but qualified sources
  5. I know this topic is dated Has anyone used the tack strips from Kanter?
  6. The restoration shop needs- door parts for the windows- I'm not exactly sure what's missing except I know the sash and bracket on 2 of the doors are missing. They suggested I buy complete junk doors and take out the parts. Does anyone exactly what other make and models are interchangeable or if there is an aftermarket website where I can buy new that will work. My only other choice is to change over to 12 volts- then gut the doors and put new automatic windows in. Since I don't have proper names of the parts- all I can do is guess. I think what they are looking for is something called a regula
  7. The restoration shop just called and they said - parts inside the door were missing that operated the windows and they can't install my windows ( on the front doors). It would be better if I could find the parts or find new door with all the parts... Anyone know of a close to Wisconsin junkyard.... or which car is interchangeable- For the shop to spend time searching would cost me about $92 bucks an hour. My car is a 1948 4 door Pontiac Streamliner
  8. Well it was a "prof. x auto paint shop owner that started-- he put Evercoat Epoxy/ Primer/Surfacer on the 4 doors/hood and trunk lid and started in 2018 ( that's why I finally decided to get the parts back and finish) What the problem I think began- was he painted the underside of the trunk lid with the urethane based color coat and clear coat. So being inexperienced I asked the auto store what would they suggest. Simple ans... stick with urethane based products all the way thru so I did, not knowing how bad fumes would be. I should have undone everything and taken it back to the metal and
  9. I'll try and start a new thread- just gotta figure it out - not to computer savvy, but thanks for the suggestion. As far as room goes I don't have a lot either- and I can't spray outside either- my neighbors have a pool and wouldn't be right for me to send paint dust their way when the wind blows... So what I did was tackle Wally World ( Walmart) nought 3-4 or more of their 9x12 plastic rolls that come in small box and in different thickness including the kind of clinging stuff..(auto store charges too much) then told my wife it's either get it done this way now or wait 'til winter and her car
  10. Okay guys--- To begin with thanks for all your help,just a shame I had to bother you guys- but you guys seem to know your sh*t pretty good. Now me being an old greenhorn I have another question actually more but I'll stick to the painting part for now. You guys have guided me correctly so here's the greenhorn question that couldn't be found on youtube.....Details you may need for you answer... My pontiac was originally a 2 tone-- so I decided to stick with that scheme when I was trying to get the pros to paint my car. The top part is considered charcoal gray metallic-- I got that do
  11. Thanks, I was just trying to avoid clearcoat altogether. I was going to use or buy a bench but figured it wouldn't be any higher than the 2 step/step ladder I have. My friggin problem is the big guy figured I needed bigger arms not a set of longer legs or a longer reach. Oh by the way guys, just in case you're wondering-- You guys steered me correctly- per the factory techs. at Omni. I finally got a hold of them also- ( been trying for a while)and just as you guys said--- put on the base coat then put on the clear coat--THEN wet sand and stuff. So I'm gonna give my paint supplier the benefit o
  12. Thanks and I've seen and read a ton of them, even dug out one from 1981 ( back then I wanted to do this-- work and life just got in the way as they say). Most painting books and videos don't really go into detail- just the standard and normal stuff-- How to clean the gun/ how to get the football pattern/ angle - what orange peel and mottling and other spray look like and they all show how to do it on a vertical surface or something lying on a table. The perpendicular part for the roof is the hard part, I've been using a small 2 step step ladder- but I guess I'll need a little higher platform.
  13. Well 1st part I guess I did right by accident--- I laid down what I thought was too thin of layers of the basecoat. Putting on the clear coat, all I was trying to do was skip changing over and then back to base to do the bottom then back to clear again. and my wife and I kind of I liked the "matte" color and I thought "well if she's happy I'm happy and maybe I can just forget the clearcoat. Guess not huh... I read all the scary stories about how hard it is to lay down, and how easy it is to get runs. I never would have even considered metallic paint -- if I knew I was going to end up doing the
  14. I did and will heed the recommendations -you guys know your stuff and just as when I trained guys to drive semi- sometimes there just isn't another option when backing up a 65-70'- large car. Not to Sand- as I stated, I was just wondering if there was another way to - put the "clear coat on-- outside of the flash time or dry time ( that's why I listed the spec times)... The "clear coat isn't on yet.... I plan on putting on 1 more coat, but just couldn't find the time to do it all at once anytime soon. I know there are some paints that " do not need" a clear co
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