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About jeff53

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    1948 Pontiac and photography

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  1. Oh I take some blame- because I choose them--- but I didn't know their character before hand- One Pro had done work for me years ago years and the other actually owned his own paint and body shop and I met him while I was a locksmith--- choosing to leave my car really seems to be standard for all auto shops whether here or there- kinda like leaving you car to having an engine overhauled. and the 2nd pro--- my car is here since I got my car back in pieces from the first "pro", the plan was to finish taking doors and trunk and hood off- give them to him- he would do the priming ,I would then bring the pieces home and we would put the car together- I would drive it to his place- and there he would finish it. Only reason for me taking it down to the metal and taking parts to him was to save him time and because he was pressed for room ( no I didn't expect to save money by sanding it to the metal- just figured that would be a lot of the labor, plus give him time to make an opening for my car... As they say no good deed goes unpunished--- but all behind and lessoned learned " the art of good business ethics are gone- I know I sound like a serial complainer and I would believe it myself- if I hadn't paid money upfront- if I was complaining about actual craftsmanship- If this car had been actually painted let's just say late 2018- or early 2019 or early 2020--- but I can't even complain about the work- coz money moved hands upon their request- "We need a deposit before we start" which is quite common practice in this area.... My major mistake- was not becoming an A-hole, and taking them both at their word not not saying "" It's been xxx number of months or years- and with no problem I gave you your asking for amount of deposit- didn't even argue to try and get the amount down- or maybe I should have demanded my money back and said" You should've have asked for a deposit upfront if you didn't have time to do the job.... You sound like one of those bad business people that own your own shop--- I was spending the money and had no problem with there Prof. fees ---- because I did know I wasn't capable of doing the job right- and knew the fumes were bad for me- no way in hell did I wanna get stuck with asking these question, I never have to ask again or did I want to start buying equipment I may never use. And sell the Damn car--- guess what- last year I did put a sign on it and ---- problem is---- no one wants a car in pieces... I even ask the 2nd pro painter " With the way the car sits today- what do you think it's worth???? His reply- in pieces like it is now without completely being painted--- maybe---$4500-5000. In short no even the amount of deposit I gave him----- Now get this--- but you don't want to sell it like that- I can for sure get to it in Dec 2019- April 2020- really it's next he says---- So serial complainer tight with money not a friggin chance- $1500 at Maaco- plus the tow- hell that's less than what I would owe the pro..... and that I have put back to give the pro ( his asking price with no haggling)--- but it's hard to keep an eye on it 80 miles away- and they like I said and someone already suggested- and I agreed are an option---- and spend the time I have left getting the cat done-- please go back over the threads- that is exactly what I've been doing- and have been trying to seek out proper info from you guys - on what products work or are compatible with Mar-Hyde Epoxy Primer Surfacer and Omni MP170 --- because even as a locksmith- I know some lock brands are interchangeable with other lock brands and some are not... which is where you guys come in--- auto store didn't tell I was putting on " for professional use only" stuff- I just happen to spot it... Let me ask you this- If you have let's say 3 $25. dollar locks sitting around and you're not sure if they would work on you basement doors- would you try and find out 1st or just automatically toss them out and go buy the others from the hardware store--- after all hardware stores sell good ones but very seldom sell commercial grade or higher end for homes and cheap 25 dollar ones may fit.and they aren't going on an main entrance. I'd be willing to bet you would try and see if your $25. ones worked first instead of going to a locksmith- or buying more expensives.--- You're not being "cheap" your just being smart before you run to the local hardware store spend $ 240- when want you have will do the job... That is ALL I need to find out - Is what I have on hand would work with what was done and is ALREADY on my car- put there by a professional--- and would work with what professional sold me.... I was looking for an alternative not a "CHEAPER" way of doing sh*t because... 1. Because of the fumes and my breathing problems and 2. because I have some crap on hand already- so why NOT use it if it's compatible and you guys say you've had no trouble.... It would be kind of stupid to throw it away and THEN ask.... But you guys say you've had trouble- so I'm not going to use it -it's that- simple- I'm assuming you guys have no reason to lie- you're not selling me anything and I've never mentioned who the pros were. I even knew there would be fumes- but not worse than the epoxy--- So I took to you guys to Find that "alternative". I found 2 and whether I like the choices or not I'll have to choose one--- neither seems to be a great alternative. But Macco seems to be the better choice and cost about the same. But serial complainer- really??? with only trying to get it painted twice since 2017 and even the courts found in my favor and I wasn't the one that filed the small claims case-- matter of fact when the judge asked me what I was asking for-,instead of asking for it all- I said well since they claim to do some of the mechanical work--- they should be paid something- Just $ xxxx.xx dollars... again my bad because I didn't know they didn't have to turn over the paper work as proof they even did the work--- so I am getting stuck with having to pay a mechanic $ 90. an hour just to check to see if the work was done------ doesn't sound much like a serial whiner too me---- Okay let's end this thread-- good bye you guys
  2. Thanks, to the point- exactly what I wanted- but not what I wanted to read- just hoping to use up the RustO somehow- since I no longer have the receipts- Question- is it because of the end paint being Urethane based? If so, can it still be used but I would need to change to a different type - Like finish with acrylic/enamel- or just because it just won't adhere to the epoxy... Cause I'm not tied into the Urethane ....
  3. I'm almost afraid to ask--- But here goes---- simple question again--- set -up--- I haven't used them yet--- but I have several rattle cans of Rustoleum brand Primer Sealer and Primer Filler and Sandable Primer- all 3 from Rustoleum---- My car as you've seen has "Epoxy" on it--- the next step doesn't have to be but " should be" putting on the "Filler"... Can you put Rustoleum FILLER OR SEALER on top of/ as the next step and have it adhere okay/properly???? If you need to know--- the base color coat I plan on using is Omni urethane base...... Please I'm not looking for other suggestion- just yet... I just want to use up the rustoleum filler and sealer- and this seems to be the perfect spot or time--- but only if they are compatible... I can always change the Urethane base finish color---- but the Mar-Hyde AND MP170 epoxy are already on and sanded.--- or I could donate them if they are NOT compatible .... Oh, by the way- for those that don't like Rustoleum- I don't either - but I will use them- Here's another photo when I used the Rustoleum brand Farm Implement line- back then I had it stripped down again - and wanted to keep it from rusting---- I was amazed-- and I choose Implement paint because it has to be tough and stand up to UV and all kinds of weather--- farmers leave their tractors sit out in all kinds of weather- without fear of rusting-- This photo was in 2003 and it lasted- no additional surface rust until I went over it with the blue and gray- in 2016--- the next year is when I thought it should have a "professional paint job"--- stupid me- I almost got rid of the car because of the "professionals"
  4. Thank you but as mentioned I already have the "correct colors" and there are a tone of online place that will mix- even that web-page " Actual" color may be different" What I'm looking for is the actual-- FORMULA OR RECIPE-- so I can take that to the local auto paint store and have a sample made up- to see if I even like the color--- doing it online is a headache--- You pick what you think is the right color ( according to your monitor) order it at about 7-10 bucks a pop- plus S&H because after all it's usually not free for that little of amount.- then wait, then pray- it's the right color and shade---- if not-then start over.... By having the formula/recipe- go to the store -they make it according to you- you say- well can you make it a little more bluer or lighter-they go to the back room add whatever and your done-- depending on the store they may or may not charge for adding. or for a addition sample but thanks
  5. Okay guys,thanks for all your suggestions and input.. They helped a lot. Time for the next question-- Is there a website that has the actual mix recipes for colors- The original colors were called Blue Lake Blue ( metallic) at some sites and Oyster grey... which actually looks like an 18% Gray--- I wanted to use the actual original color scheme and maybe updated it a little by using metal flake or making both colors metallic.. but I wanted to have samples made 1st ( may not even like the metallic look--- The rustoleum I had on it in the 2017 photo is close- but it wasn't metallic nor was it the original Gray or Blue. 1st one - left column, Top left should be the original colors,- Yes, I know the colors are reversed- but since this has landed in my hands and it's only primed- I can go with any color scheme-- I'm also open for suggestions
  6. Just got my quored estimate back from Maaco- $900-$1500... which isn't to bad at all- I figure I would spend at least a half to 3/4 of that in materials left to buy.. Just need to scrutinize their small [print and meet the people face to face.
  7. We will be- Although I found my answer- I keeping my options open only as a back-up though--- getting tired of the new "business ethics". Customer service used to mean real service- now it means- we hired someone to answer the phone and say " I can put you thru to their voicemail... So another pro I'm not to thrilled about
  8. I know they and Pima Jr college used to do that back in the 70's ... But last I heard- insurance was way too high and a lot of school only let student bring their own registered to them or family cars. And yes- most of them do excellent work--- and they have teachers that specialize in all the different areas. Monday comes I'll try the local place. I would really prefer to have it done right- that's why I paid the "pros"- but I am at a no return point and schools might be an option- but another professional shop is out--- besides winter is coming- 1st prof. had the car 4-5 months. and ths 2nd professional said maybe done in spring time- that was spring of 2018- 2019- it would be done around march, oct- 2019 for sure in dec.2019- in 2020 april xxx now it's July- I have to either let it sit yet another year and trust "the pros" or take matters into my own hands and settle on the fact- there are no real pros and to quit searching- because at this rate someone will inherit a huge problem... besides as fast as our generation is dropping off- I want at least one more ride... But I've given up on professionalism and ethics in this area-- I can do this bad all on my own.
  9. Thanks for all your help guys- I'll consider all the options and just so you know- money is only a consideration but not the bottom line-- because the money bottom line would cost a ton more than towing the cat 160 miles round trip or tossing expired pot life chemicals or paint- 1 sm visit to an E.R. or a 1-2 day Hospital stay would cost a ton more. So while I was just a factory rat tossing money at and over priced trylon- is not where I want to throw the dart... I did find a direct answer to my question which I was actually asking wrong--- ( because I'm not an auto painter).... I should have asked" Can I put the base color coat-- directly over the Epoxy Primer Surfacer??? and skip the Urethane Filler step or if there was a rattle can paint BRAND that would work with my 2 kinds of Epoxy Primer Surfacer---- wrong question to ask... To all that this applies to or don't know it--- The answer is a simple--- YES you Can Put a base coat color directly on top of Epoxy Primer Surfacer and go directly to using color coat base.... But you need to let the Epoxy cure- sand to your liking - but don't sand thru epoxy- wet sand seems to be prefered apply your color..... Now with that said- it's recommended and only a recommendation - to use a primer filler with urethane ( urethane also acts as another moisture and protection barrier)--- This way it might cost a lot more- but you can have your "Urethane Based Finish coat put into rattle cans" and use the paint brand you choose---- However the pros don't like rattle cans and they are not even prefered by most amateurs- except for small areas- Again I'm not an expert and some of this info came from a trusted source we all know--- Eastwood... So rather than trust another pro 80 miles away--- it'll only cost couple of hundred bucks- to find out as oppose $ 1000 or more again. To me it's kind of like tipping before the meal- $ 50 dollar meal vs a $10 dollar tip- even if something isn't quite right with the $50 meal. Again thanks for all your info- Here's photo with the way it looks now- in about a month or less I'll post a finish color coat ( with luck) Now to fix my next "Professional Craftsman job done by the Amish- but they have at least offered to reimburse/ refund some of the money- they are just to busy to fix it now ( next photo)
  10. - And that's exactly the way I plan most things now- if it takes a normal person to do a job in about 3 hours- I allow myself and schedule for a 2 day job... but the mixing and pot life somehow doesn't seem to care- and still goes bad. Going to Maaco seems to be the next to the last option, the towing cost isn't the problem- Main issue is after getting burned by "pros" tahing it 80 miles and not being where I can just run over and check on it- coz seems around here the word " professional craftsman" is a generic term for I get paid to do it so I must be a professional".... So I figure they can't do any worse than I can-- but would I pay for someone to do a job as bad as mine might come out? But would I pay to not have to breath the fumes --- yes- I tried twice maybe the 3rd times a charm...
  11. Okay I want to thank you all- sending it out seems to be my next and best option-and I check and the closest on is about 80 miles away. however it makes me kind of skitzy or gun shy trusting it to another "pro" shop- where I won't be around or have any control.. But seems to be my best option--- Here's my last question and may be workable........ I know rattle cans are a but I think that isn't because of "rattle cans themselves" it's because of the paint companies and quality of the paint- example- No one likes Rust-Oleum because it peels after a year or a few years. So here's the question--- without considering the non professional results look--by me..... Simple question---- can a person put a color coat/ base coat "DIRECTLY" over Epoxy Primer Surfacer ?? Has anyone actually done it? I know I would have to sand the EPOXY anyway ( it's been past 7 days)... But my problem seems to be the my level of expeirence with a spray gun and this type of paint-shelf/pot life because I know after mixing- I would run the risk of not being able to finish that same day and possibly end up throwing a bunch of expensive stuff out. and of course the fumes... However here's my line of thinking--- It's because Of my breathing problems, wearing the mask which restricts my breathing even more and not being able to stop for long periods....that I don't want to use a spray gun or actually mix the "URETHANE myself. However if any of you have gone directly over EPOXY with the color/base coat -- then I could stay with the omni paint I already have- just have them mix it and put in rattle cans--- That would eliminate the shelf life/pot life worry- I would be able to stop and start however long I needed and not have to throw anything out--- Get rid of most of the measuring and spray gun worries- and most of all get rid of a lot of the fumes.( not all but most) So again - is it possible to put the base color coat directly on EPOXY PRIMER SURFACER--- naturally wet sanded first
  12. Bloo- sorry to hear about your friends and I do have the proper PPE. it 's an automatic no brainer for me always- my problem is asthma- serious enough for 3 lung procedures in 2017- So I'm quite aware of the danger- that's why I'm digging so hard to find an answer- Farm it out would be a god send and I tried it twice not once.... and I'm at a lost how to finish .So it may not be perfect but at least look decent.... heck at this pace- the no rust anywhere car will be a bucket of rust just sitting there Okay guys- here's the 2nd big what if and be truthful as you can be---- Now assuming Maaco isn't open any longer - and I have to finish in rattle cans- even tho I don't want too. which brand would you proceed with For the " FILLER" with the base coat/ finish color and clear coat if needed) and that's buying about 16-20 cans. of Filler and 16-20 of Base coat ( or the color) Only rattle cans will do. But now Bloo has me considering house/metal shed type building paint with UV protection.
  13. Terry B - but what brand?? 55er farm it out would be ideal and I'd jump at it in a flash- and monday I may end up calling Maaco-- just was thinking they would even touch the car if someone already started it. TAKerry- that's the brand that was being used by the author- of the article on Hagerty website... to 55er again-- I know I wouldn't be that happy with rattle cans and am only really wanting to use rattle cans on this Urethane Filler step"... but funny you should pick the exact same words my current professional uses every time I would say " you're just to busy to finish- maybe I should do it in rattle cans and just get it over--- No, No no he would say- you wouldn't be happy with it... I'm miserable now- thinking of how to finish- at 2-3 in the a.m.I'm wide awake and I'm having coffee trying to be the heat and humidity ( that's makes for some tight chested moments) trying to figure out my next step or searching if there's another decent way- one guy did an excellent job- using Duplicolor ( but just on a small car and painted little fender but no epoxy primer- another guys shows how to get an excellent job with rust O. but again no epoxy and all I've ever heard was how it peels, Haderty article was the best-- but not a single one addressed epoxy prime and the brands it will except -- I already have 2 brands on the car- just not on top of each other... So rattle cans or Maaco now is the choice.. I would use rattle can in a minute if someone said how long it stayed on their car and if it was a different brand other than rust O. Heck I just want to stay asleep again.