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jeff53

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  1. Great photos and will help a lot later-- But what I'm trying to figure out is when it comes time and the vent windows are ready to go back in.. . I know I would normally just reverse the process and put them in the way they came out... and there in lies the problem- I didn't take them out and can only assume how they go back in. and without actually knowing or seeing them being taken out. I don't know if I should try and put them back in 1st before the door channels and window- or after the door window. My main concern is by not doing it in the correct sequence-I may end up breaking or scratching the glass... But by your photos I can at least get them ready do go back in... Here's best way to think of my project--- I'm a locksmith- You bring a safe to me to work on the dial and the lock and the locking bolts. Now I take it completely apart-- hand you back the safe with everything in a box unlabeled--- You can get all the pieces back together-with a little problem. Now when it comes time to reinstall everything-- you have 1 chance to do it right---- If you put it in wrong and some locks will seemingly operate right with the door open... If it's not right when you close the door and try the dial- you're basically screwed and locked out of your safe. Now it will cost you to have it drilled open, which destroy the U.L.rating If not repaired correctly.or buy a new one. I don't want to buy all new seal and glass because what looked like the correct way to reinstall wasn't. My hood doesn't seat correctly anymore because the last painter took it upon himself to spot weld the 2 halves. when the hood was off the car.. (misaligned) I'm sure-- but the cars painted so it's hard to tell- if that the real reason. but I've checked and rechecked every possible other reason. Once again thanks those photos will be helpful- I got my stuff from Steel also. Now on to the headliner- strange seems no one has dealt with Kanter.
  2. Has anyone ordered headliners- specifically for a '48 4 door Pontiac.. I know there are several companies. I was going to order one from Kanter or J.C. Whitney... And does anyone have a lead on a youtube video on "Taking out and vent window". I can find a ton of videos- all trucks and newer than '48-that show the vent window already out. But can't find a single one on how they are taking out.. The reason I ask the question this way is a shop took them out. and it's up to me to finish the job.not sure if anything is missing or not (yet)
  3. These bows were inside a pontiac at a junkyard . Headliner was still covering them, so I don't think it was made as a hippie thing. I just thought it may be original to the year and car. They came out of a 1948 Pontiac and the headliner looked original.
  4. Trim 71-,Paint# 18,Top-ACC.,Style 48-2609DN#C5019 Vin#c5019 Fisher body Style-B- I did order 1 interchangeable book by GM covering years 46-53 Chevy-Pontiac-Buick and Olds, I got several books from "Faxon and they are terrible- but non returnable because "they are book". If you're old enough you probably remember xerox machines where the copies came out so bad and dark you couldn't make any details out. Also the watermark in the upholstery book is dark enough and right on top of some printing it's hard to read.... My car runs okay- but qualified sources ( key word "qualified") are shall we say very limited--- I found one place that the people are great- but said they would have to charge 90+ per hour to do the research to find the correct parts.... Which I understand -because that ties up man hours-not working on something else.( no one is in business to go out of business). and so far I have spent hours- just looking someone who has "actually" replaced the door guts --or modified/upgraded the windows and knows what parts and where I need to order from. ( which I don't really want to do)The places I have found all say- They will only guarantee their product for which it was made- ie stuff for a 1948 Chevy "might" work- but no guarantee and if altered- no return. I got a wiring harness from Ron F. and I had 4 mechanics tell me not to pull it out because the wiring was for a 12 v. not a 6 and very well might overheat and catch fire.( it still sits in it's box because I cut some of the wires- non returnable) So that is why I now ask for people who have "actually" done the work or ordered the parts"-- My next step is to start customizing it and go from 6-12v and find out what the guys at H.A.M.B. or Lowrider have done to convert their windows-if I can't find the right company or correct parts.
  5. I know this topic is dated Has anyone used the tack strips from Kanter?
  6. The restoration shop needs- door parts for the windows- I'm not exactly sure what's missing except I know the sash and bracket on 2 of the doors are missing. They suggested I buy complete junk doors and take out the parts. Does anyone exactly what other make and models are interchangeable or if there is an aftermarket website where I can buy new that will work. My only other choice is to change over to 12 volts- then gut the doors and put new automatic windows in. Since I don't have proper names of the parts- all I can do is guess. I think what they are looking for is something called a regulator and the sash with bracket. I don't really want to buy all 4 doors-just the guts. My car is a 1948 Pontiac 4 door. The problem seems to be no website knows for sure what is interchangeable and won't guarantee it ,if I but parts from a specified model into a different model. I have checked "The Filling Station and Chevys of the 40s websites.. and the Fisher Body body I have-only list Buick Special,Olds 76-78 and Caddy 61 as being the same body. A schematic would help me figure out exact names and parts.
  7. The restoration shop just called and they said - parts inside the door were missing that operated the windows and they can't install my windows ( on the front doors). It would be better if I could find the parts or find new door with all the parts... Anyone know of a close to Wisconsin junkyard.... or which car is interchangeable- For the shop to spend time searching would cost me about $92 bucks an hour. My car is a 1948 4 door Pontiac Streamliner
  8. Well it was a "prof. x auto paint shop owner that started-- he put Evercoat Epoxy/ Primer/Surfacer on the 4 doors/hood and trunk lid and started in 2018 ( that's why I finally decided to get the parts back and finish) What the problem I think began- was he painted the underside of the trunk lid with the urethane based color coat and clear coat. So being inexperienced I asked the auto store what would they suggest. Simple ans... stick with urethane based products all the way thru so I did, not knowing how bad fumes would be. I should have undone everything and taken it back to the metal and either put lacquer or enamel on... it's was never intended to be in a show or compete. There are not 4 coats of either on ( clear or color)... The top ( black area)has 2 maybe 3 coats of color and only 1 coat of clear and the paint is metallic
  9. I'll try and start a new thread- just gotta figure it out - not to computer savvy, but thanks for the suggestion. As far as room goes I don't have a lot either- and I can't spray outside either- my neighbors have a pool and wouldn't be right for me to send paint dust their way when the wind blows... So what I did was tackle Wally World ( Walmart) nought 3-4 or more of their 9x12 plastic rolls that come in small box and in different thickness including the kind of clinging stuff..(auto store charges too much) then told my wife it's either get it done this way now or wait 'til winter and her car would be parked outside most of the winter or pay thousands to try another another "Pro"... Sh e opted for now... So with the 9x12s I went to work using blue painters tape.. Even figured a way to put it on the garage door so I could have a place to make test patterns ( ok,ok, so I wouldn't get killed ).... I had to paint the doors on the car because their was no way to stand them up and I don't bend so swell at this age. Only thing I wish I had done was pay the lousy extra $100 bucks and bought another set of 10,000 lumens LED shop lights--- There are spots that are thin by the front of the left headlight. I would never recommend urethane paint too anyone without some experience... I had none and my biggest problem was having to get the other coats on "within" the 24 hour period or scuff everything up and put another layer of paint on... now cold weather is setting in and I have to try and finish when it's above 60-65 to put the clear coat on the bottom- therein lies the headache- 48 hours ago I painted the bottom and now it's to late to spay clear or repaint that front area...I was told I have to scuff up everything if it's longer than 24 hours. Anyhow-- if you have a 2 car garage and a very understanding boss (my wife) you can do it.. Oh I only went with urethane because I was told to stick with the same kind of paint all the way thru urethane based"... If I had known what I know now before I started------ I would've stripped what the pro did, back down to the metal- and started with either lacquer or enamel--- because I had no intentions it being a show car..... that's for someone much younger and with big bucks...
  10. Okay guys--- To begin with thanks for all your help,just a shame I had to bother you guys- but you guys seem to know your sh*t pretty good. Now me being an old greenhorn I have another question actually more but I'll stick to the painting part for now. You guys have guided me correctly so here's the greenhorn question that couldn't be found on youtube.....Details you may need for you answer... My pontiac was originally a 2 tone-- so I decided to stick with that scheme when I was trying to get the pros to paint my car. The top part is considered charcoal gray metallic-- I got that done and it does have "clear coat on it" and as you can see the clear coat looks shiny in some areas and not in other areas -- someone mentioned I could simply wetsand the clear or buff it out later. so I moved on and did the bottom as you can see.. and yes the runs are gone and it looks okay ( not perfect nut green horn perfect) Now it's time to put the "clear coat" on the bottom.. Here's the question-- do I put clear coat over the whole car or mask of the top and just add it to the bottom. 2nd question If I wetsand the "top" do I have to reapply the clear coat" what grit? or will buffing do the job? 1 more thing awhile back, I was concerned about my serious asthma problems and working with urethane and pot life and all that stuff. I contacted Macco and price was way upthere. plus things they wouldn't or couldn't do. If this helps anyone and by no means am I recommending it- but it worked for me. I used a painters mask with the 2 filters and under that I had a dust mask. Those 2 together did restrict my air more( naturally) but I gave me enough time to paint a section--- go outside catch 15-30 minutes of fresh air..... What I did also was mix up enough to paint the whole complete area I wanted to paint. What didn't fit in the spray gun cup- did fit in a Sargento parmesan cheese container and those have lids that also fix a measuring paint cup. This way I only had to mix paint once for that day. I put the 2nd coat on within 24 hours( aka the next day).... I put the 2 mask on together just before painting- after checking the pattern/ mixing the paint and while doing that stuff I wore 1 mask.... Warning for those with breathing problems--- If you even begin to feel a little light headed--- stop go get fresh air... I was worried about the pot life--- don't- 1 doctor/hospital visit will cost more than the paint.... 2 I kept my nebulizer within 50 feet and with the mixture in the cup. I also to the time to see about how long I could handle 2 mask- before I even started- I worked in the yard with both on...1st. But for any other greenhorn follow these guys advice always 1st take your car to Maaco- if you don't have the right PPE. or like the one person said--- you might get your car painted - but someone else may end up driving it. I only attempted this because I was out of options. Here's some photos-1st photo April wo17 ,drove to a shop this way ,rattle can by me and I wanted at least a Maaco quality job -- 3 days work,--- 2,3 photos I put a stop too... but this was after 4-5 months at a shop- we ended up in court. last 2 is where I'm at now I don't have photos of what was done from another pro- from Dec. 2018- July 2020. The photo is of my brother and I in'74...... I didn't think too ask "how to save the paint job back then- Az. sun faded the paint and it was kind of chalking-- Didn't realize all it needed was maybe just some buffing and polishing
  11. Thanks, I was just trying to avoid clearcoat altogether. I was going to use or buy a bench but figured it wouldn't be any higher than the 2 step/step ladder I have. My friggin problem is the big guy figured I needed bigger arms not a set of longer legs or a longer reach. Oh by the way guys, just in case you're wondering-- You guys steered me correctly- per the factory techs. at Omni. I finally got a hold of them also- ( been trying for a while)and just as you guys said--- put on the base coat then put on the clear coat--THEN wet sand and stuff. So I'm gonna give my paint supplier the benefit or the doubt and say I had to of heard him wrong, however the factory tech. couldn't figure out why they gave me Omni MBC for the top and Omni MBP-Plus for the bottom--- even tho I had a can from the pro of Omni MBP with me. He did say they will be okay together. So thanks again and if everything runs correctly- hopefully the complete paint job part will be done by the end of next week--- whew!! When this is done I should have arms like a great ape- a ton of sanding and re-sanding for a greenhorn.
  12. Thanks and I've seen and read a ton of them, even dug out one from 1981 ( back then I wanted to do this-- work and life just got in the way as they say). Most painting books and videos don't really go into detail- just the standard and normal stuff-- How to clean the gun/ how to get the football pattern/ angle - what orange peel and mottling and other spray look like and they all show how to do it on a vertical surface or something lying on a table. The perpendicular part for the roof is the hard part, I've been using a small 2 step step ladder- but I guess I'll need a little higher platform. I was trying to avoid making one--- ( safety reason) but I guess I'm gonna have to make one.Everything else looks pretty decent. Glad to know about the clearcoat . so I won't fret to much if I get some runs.... I have an Eastwood Cat. but thanks for the other. Only person I know that's willing to give out info is the at the auto paint supplier and good thing I checked here before putting on mu clear coat- because they said to " wet sand " the base coat and then put the clear on and wet sand that also. ( wet sand in between base and clear). Personally- I just wish this didn't need a clear coat at all.... but this is what the 2nd auto painter started with- so I guess I have to see it thru. 2 curious questions- When watching the shows like Kindig and others- they seem to have guys covering the "whole body" in filler type stuff- I thought filler was just for small areas or it would crack. 2nd question--- All painting videos seem to show almost a cloud like foggy mist..... I can get the football shaped pattern okay and a fine somewhat okay mist- the tip is a 1.4 - but I can never seem to get the very fine mist.... My way seems to use a lot of paint..... But I'm not getting any fisheyes or orange peel ( the books and videos point out the gun settings but never really an optimal starting point.... Kind of like me telling a new driver - just stick it in gear and and start down a 7-9% grade.
  13. Well 1st part I guess I did right by accident--- I laid down what I thought was too thin of layers of the basecoat. Putting on the clear coat, all I was trying to do was skip changing over and then back to base to do the bottom then back to clear again. and my wife and I kind of I liked the "matte" color and I thought "well if she's happy I'm happy and maybe I can just forget the clearcoat. Guess not huh... I read all the scary stories about how hard it is to lay down, and how easy it is to get runs. I never would have even considered metallic paint -- if I knew I was going to end up doing the beast. Problem I seem to be having now with this last layer is--- not being tall enough to get the top of the car "evenly" I use a small step ladder ( 2 stepper) but doesn't give me the best reach ( as I noticed) I'm getting what I would call heavy and light streaks- didn't really want to try a 6' ladder- figure that's just asking for trouble. and as a past freelance photographer--- I know lighting is everything and lighting in my garage is only fit for critters like me -- but not for painting a car without several "do-over areas". Oh I have 4 shop lights on those tripods- but they are still pretty bad.Can't paint outside ( neighborhood issues) I would consider myself a backyarder---except this is the one and only time I ever paint a car and I'm only doing this- because after trying to get others to paint it since 2017 ( and losing money in the process) I figured if I didn't do it -- it would never get done in my lifetime... So I had a choice-- either sit and watch it rot before my eyes or take over and at least try to get it painted and back together... I so much wanted someone else to do this. Makes me puke just to think of all the leftover stuff I either have to throw out or find a spot for... My poor wife has never ridden in it and bless her heart-- she's been pretty patient with me saying " Sorry but we can't park your car in the garage until this thing is at least finished being painted Again thanks to all
  14. I did and will heed the recommendations -you guys know your stuff and just as when I trained guys to drive semi- sometimes there just isn't another option when backing up a 65-70'- large car. Not to Sand- as I stated, I was just wondering if there was another way to - put the "clear coat on-- outside of the flash time or dry time ( that's why I listed the spec times)... The "clear coat isn't on yet.... I plan on putting on 1 more coat, but just couldn't find the time to do it all at once anytime soon. I know there are some paints that " do not need" a clear coat--- that why the question... I kind of like the Matte finish and just thought -- what the heck maybe I can forego the clear coat all together.... I hear even some pros have trouble putting on clear coats.. So I know I'll have trouble. I also thought maybe just buffing and polishing it would be okay. Doesn't clearcoat,take a special spray gun? By the way thanks for getting into the tech part, ie there's a good reason for coming to you guys--- There's more to backing a semi, than hop in,check your mirrors and start backing. Again thanks
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