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c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. Yep... Compression is a #1 requirement for a good running engine. All six cylinders at 100-110lbs will let the engine run well. 125lbs/130lbs is as good as it will get. Read a shop manual on compression tests for a full understanding.
  2. The DeSoto and Chrysler heat riser package shown above is MoPar #1316267. It also sounds like the car has a severe hesitation from a dead stop? Check the spark plug and point gaps. Accelerator pump leather cup might be shrunk and or the accelerator jet plugged up too. Bob
  3. Sorry I didn't even look at the picture of your sender. :confused: That is the wrong sending unit for your C38 chrysler shown in your picture though. . It will not show a #1 and 2. It looks to be for a 30's car. Pics of the right one....
  4. Your gas tank sender has a #1 and #2 stamped on it. Clean it well with a brush to see these numbers. Two wires connect to your gas tank sender with the two screws. The two wires at the tank unit were originally medium blue-that wire connects to screw terminal #1. The other wire remaining was originally yellow and black..it connects to #2 terminal at the sender. Your wires are old and discolored but by carefully scraping the cloth wire covering you will be able to see enough of the original colors to re-attach the wires properly. The small braided ground wire is attached to the spark plug wire
  5. My brother still has my dads 1967 GS340 Buick factory 3 speed column shift car. He bought it new. Two colors white or Silver mist poly with two lower racing stripes and a chrome air cleaner.
  6. From the album: Chrysler

    Lastest addition to my woodie collection and the twin uncrated 1950 NewYorker all steel body Newport
  7. Glad to help Carl...I own 1946-8 Chryslers and know them well! Also 1953-54 Dodge , DeSoto and Chrysler top parts should probably be the same. Bob
  8. No pump is used on the 1946-8 chrysler. There are two 6 volt screw drive actuators that raise and lower the top.
  9. Glad you figured it out!!!! Just some more tech pic's for others who want to see 1949-54 housings / Fram C192PL O-ring info ect. Take out of it what you want! Bob
  10. The Ever-drys on one of my Chryslers....Yes they do keep the plugs dry. Bob
  11. I think I did not look at your hood strainer cross bar to rear center hood vertical bracket carefully enough!. I do think it is on your car. I put a red arrow pointing to this bracket in the attached picture. This bracket is how you adjust the rear center hood height to cowl. As for Ever-dry covers, all the 1946-8 chryslers had them factory installed. Yes the water can leak through the hood center under the hood center chrome strip. Thats up to you as to how to seal it up. Probably back in the day not many worried about it as long as the car always started and ran ok. Bob
  12. The inside of the chrysler trunks except converts are a special trunk and underside of floor pan color-a blue/green. Your car is supposed to be dove gray regardless of the dash color. Dash colors and plastic are another color option. Bob
  13. There are two types of oil filter housings for the 1946-54 flathead chrysler engines. Each type uses a different type of oil filter housing to top cover gasket. 1946-48 all steel oil filter housings used on chrysler engines use a thick hard fiber type top cover gasket-it is the exact diameter of the top cover. This top cover has a large domed acorn shape nut that tightens the top cover down to the oil filter housing onto the hard fiber type gasket. There also is a non servicable copper sealing washer under this large acorn style nut that seals the nut to the top cover to prevent oil leakage.
  14. Your car does not use the flat fiber type round gasket. It only uses the large round rubber O-ring.
  15. Your 1949 windsor oil filter housing uses two rubber O-rings as seals where it bolts to the block. Two 3/8" bolts hold the housing to the engine block. Changing the oil would not cause thes two seals to leak. The oil filter housing cap uses a large diameter rubber O-ring for sealing. Did you replace it or re-use it? Generally the replacement modern day filters including the Napa 1062 do not have the new O-ring included and you usually can re-use your old cover O-ring. Just don't mess with it and carefully push the cover with O-ring carefully back down onto the oil filter housing and re-attach
  16. I have tried to find the correct, proper fitting, easily available oil filter element for the 1946-8 chryslers and have not found found one so I have always used the originals. I have found the Mopar OE filters at swap meets and old chrysler dealerships. They are made of a tightly woven string type material and have a fine screen mesh in the center of the filter full length. I have been using them for over 35 years-no issues with any of my eight cylinder cars. When I have some time I will look through my filter books and try to find a modern material replacement-maybe! Bob
  17. Some pics of a 1946-8 Chrysler eight oil filter housing and Mopar element.... Plus a Hemi oil filter housing shown that is the same as 1949-54 Chrysler housings that oil filters can be purchased easily almost anywhere and which could be interchangable with the earlier 1946-8 oil filter elements-maybe different size and materials between the two.
  18. The Napa 1062,1073 or Wix #51073 are correct for the chrysler eights including a lot of the early hemi's. The oil filter housings on the six cylinder cars have 1/2" external oil lines and is full flow. The eights have no external oil lines-cannister is bolted directly to the block. The correct OE factory Mopar oil filter element that properly fits and completely full flow filters the 1942-48 chrysler straight "8" --- and it also fits the six cylinder cars is... MoPar #1123387, it's a woven string type filter . You can use this MoPar filter element to be sure of the element internally sealing
  19. If you have the drivers- not passenger side hinge pillar serial #(vin) I can tell you what year and possibly who has owned it last-if it is a T&C chrysler.. C39N =eight cylinder NewYorker or Town and Country car. C39 is the beginning of the engine numbler which will match the same # stamped on the rear of the drivers side of the frame just forward of the bumper bracket. The 3"X4" Firewall data plate will tell all options ect on your car and body model. Post a pic of the Firewall Data plate and I will decipher it for you if you post it today-I will be gone to AZ tomorrow. Bob
  20. If you have the drivers- not passenger side hinge pillar serial #(vin) I can tell you what year and possibly who has owned it last-if it is a T&C chrysler.. C39N=eight cylinder NewYorker or Town and Country car. C39-...... is the beginning of the engine numbler which will match the same # stamped on the rear of the drivers side of the frame just forward of the bumper bracket. The 3"X5" Firewall data plate will tell all options ect on your car and body model. Bob
  21. From the album: Chrysler

    Miller Service tools 1940-1956
  22. c49er

    Chrysler Service

    From the album: Chrysler

    Miller Brake Shoe Setup Posioning tool Old 30's Style
  23. c49er

    Chrysler Service

    From the album: Chrysler

    Some 1940-56 Chrysler/Miller Service tools
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