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Jemattson18

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About Jemattson18

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  • Birthday 11/18/1992

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  1. Hey guys, so after a lot of head scratching and trying different things I finally got this car running again last night. Last night I replaced the cap and rotor and tried to start it but got nothing. After that I shortened the wire going from the coil to the distributor because it was looking a little sketchy at one end and it was about twice as long as it needed to be anyways. I also replaced the points and condenser and set the gap and after that the car started and ran just about perfectly. I got to tell you, it's one of the best feelings in the world to fix a problem like this.
  2. Thanks for the advice. Carbking, I'll try your method this weekend and let you know how it goes. Why do you guys suggest keeping the old carburetor? Yes, when I took the carb apart I actually replaced the mixture screws with new ones that came in the rebuild kit. I believe they call them idle adjustment screws in the manual I have. I also screwed them in until they seated and then backed them out 1 3/4 turns as it states in the manual. I didn't have any compressed air, but I made sure to blast out every passageway with carb cleaner.
  3. So I emailed Daytona Parts, which is where I bought the carb rebuild kit, asking what they recommend the float height to be. They sent me a page from what looks like a Carter WCD technical manual and that says for a '54 Pontiac to set the float height at 3/16". Before I had set it at 3/32" because that is what I had read in a different manual. So, last night I took the carburetor off, set the float height to 3/16" and cleaned out the intake manifold as best I could so that there wasn't any gasoline sitting in there. When I put the carburetor back on the car, however, it still wouldn't start. I
  4. Thanks, you guys are a huge help. This weekend my dad and I replaced the float valve on the carburetor with the flat rubber valve that came with the Daytona rebuild kit. We did have to adjust the float down a little bit because with the floats all the way up, it wasn't seating the valve. We had the carb cover upside down so that the floats were at the highest level and the float valve was closed and there was a little bit of a gap between the float and the valve. We adjusted the floats down just a bit so that they were making contact with the float valve when the floats were all the way up. We
  5. Sorry for the late response. So I did both a dry compression test with the engine cold and then a compression test with some marvel's mystery oil squirted into the cylinders. Dry test --- #1- 50 psi #2-60 psi #3-40 psi #4-30 psi #5-32 psi #6-58 psi #7-60 psi #8-52 psi Wet test --- #1- 105 psi #2-112 psi #3-100 psi #4-110 psi #5-80 psi #6-105 psi #7-105 psi #8-110 psi Now, I know the pressure was low in cylinder 4 and 5 during the dry test and in #5 during the wet test, but it sounds like the engine is firing on much less than 6 cy
  6. Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 54 Pontiac Chieftain. It was working fine until a few months ago when it sounded like it wasn't running on all cylinders. The next time I tried starting it, it wouldn't start at all. It sounds like there's a few cylinders firing, but not enough to actually get the engine running. I was wondering if any of you have any suggestions as to what the problem could be. Since I started experiencing this problem I have replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires and made sure that the spark plug gaps were correct. I also made sure the points gap was corre
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