1941_Saratoga

Members
  • Content Count

    118
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About 1941_Saratoga

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

698 profile views
  1. Yes, it's 3" deep. I've already sent out my radiator to a shop in the Northeast, and (fingers crossed) may have it back before August. Just before the radiator popped, I replaced the tie rod ends, new brake shoes, drums turned and had the cyIinders resleeved, replaced steering arm bushings, and bought 4 new Firestone white walls. It would be great to get a little driving in this year!
  2. Thanks Bob, as I suspected, the T&C radiators of that vintage are wider than mine. Here are some diagrams I made up to send to a couple of radiator fabricators before I decided to go in a different direction. I believe that my radiator was only used for 2-3 years, ending in '41 (or '42). $100 for tested radiators...who would have thought that hanging on to those would have made a great retirement plan! Dave
  3. Joe, you actually undersold it. 🙂 If I'm going to drive around with a $10,000 radiator, I'm not putting the front clip back on, because I want people to see it! Dave
  4. As usual, Bob, great pictures. The '46-'48 8-cylinder radiators are strikingly similar to the '41 core that has stepped wings. However, aside from looking wider, the side mounts are also different, which would require some customization of the support. If it's not too much trouble, I'd still be curious about the width of one of your radiators, just to know for certain. I wasn't sure if I wanted to mention how much the quotes were for a full copper recore, but since this is an informational forum...I had several quotes all around the $10k range and a 6 month to 3 year time frame. I'm afraid that's a bit much for my budget and my patience (might be different if this was a T&C). I'm going to have something a bit different done, at ~1/5 the cost, which should give me close to the same coolant capacity, and be more efficient. That's the hope anyway - I'll post pictures when I get it back. Dave
  5. Thanks Art, I've actually pursued a solution with my existing setup that I'll post (hopefully) this month. Hang onto that radiator though - I hear they aren't making them anymore Dave
  6. Nice pictures, Jack. I'm gathering my options at this point, wanting to be original to the car, but also wanting to drive the car this Summer. We're already at July 4th, and in my experience, the day after the 4th is Labor Day. Bob, do you know the max width, height and thickness of the '46-'48 straight-8 radiators? I have a feeling, although they look really similar to the '41, that they are a bit squatter, and possibly wider. The mounting bolt holes are definitely in the wrong places, but the interesting thing is that they both have that oddly angled bottom tank, which is the same shape as the support. Maybe I need to send my radiator out to your guy... Dave
  7. Jack, I may, at least temporarily, put a Champion radiator in. I've had a couple specialists look at the radiator and both agreed it needed a re-core. Just curious, did you have to cut any of the supports to get the unit to fit? Because of the shape of my radiator, I'm going to have to fabricate some mounts to hold a rectangular radiator. I don't want to cut anything that is stock in the car, just in case, down the line, I find a NOS unit. Dave
  8. "How original does it need to be?" That will likely be decided by price, Jack. My preference would be an original one, or a re-core of this radiator. Dave
  9. Just circling back to update. Thanks, Narve, for the input! I'm leaning towards having the radiator re-cored, and I've spent the past couple of weeks digging up some names in the Northeast of radiator guys who have had experience with this particular style radiator. It's not a honeycomb radiator, which surprised some very knowledge Chrysler people I spoke with. It appears that to have it re-cored will require a custom core to be fabricated. I'd go for the repair, but if the radiator is becoming fragile, I'd prefer to take care of the entire problem, rather than continually have to plug leaks as they develop. I don't think it's going to approach $5k, but it's certainly going to be pricier than a repair. So...anyone care to talk me out of this? 🙂 Dave
  10. Hi Mike, She developed a bad leak in the back, about 3-4 inches above the bottom tank. I didn't see any damage (like the fan hitting or something like that) so I'm assuming a seam burst, or it was just her time. There isn't a lot of room to see what's going on when the front clip is on, so I removed it. Also gives me an opportunity to do a few touch-ups on the wiring and detail the engine compartment again. As an update, I removed the 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding the radiator to the support, and I can see there is a trick to this (although I haven't quite figured it out yet). The battery tray on the left is pretty tight to the radiator, and on the right there are two shielded wires that go to the headlight/parking light that are in the way. Guess I have to take those out too. Dave
  11. Looking for some input before I remove the radiator from the supports... I've taken off the front clip and have clear access to the radiator, but I was wondering if there's a specific method for taking out the radiator that would be easiest. It's a pretty heavy unit, so should I support it or have a second person standing by? Does it lift out, or turned left or right while sitting on the bottom support. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Once it's out, I'm sure I'll have questions about the best place to send it for repair or re-core. I've checked several places to find a replacement, but no luck. I'm sure even a NOS radiator may need a re-core after sitting for 80 years. Thanks in advance! Dave
  12. Just wanted to pop back in and thank everyone for the great advice. Got the new cylinder pins and everything fits together like it's supposed to. Put a new line in between the upper and lower cylinder as long as I had it open. New bearings, seals, shocks, shoes, tie rod ends, steering arm bushings, rebuilt cylinders. I may need a new project to get me through this pandemic... Thanks again! Dave
  13. Thanks Ply33, I'll try the feeler gauge method. I've always gone with the "feel" of the shoe against the gauge, then adjust the cams accordingly. But the gauge should give me the consistent clearance to get the drum on. Dave
  14. Thanks Bob, I'm going to bookmark this page, as those pictures are invaluable. I found a few other pistons and will measure in the morning. Ply33, I used the Ammco gauge initially to get a measurement across the 12" drum. The eccentrics I set with the arrows facing their adjacent cylinders, then put the gauge on the axle and set the cams until there was a consistent light drag around both shoes. I expected the drum to slip right on, but it did not fit. Even with the cams set all the way in, the drum wasn't close to fitting.