1912Staver

A difficult job on an otherwise reasonably easy to work on car. I have replaced them about a dozen times. Worked in a shop that did a sideline in Volvo's, plus my own car. The first one was time consuming , but later repeats go a lot smoother.

Do you live somewhere where rust is rare to non existent ? If not I would avoid a Mustang. . Great cars , but food for tinworms.

Someone was willing to spend over $22,000 on this ? ?

There is also a big difference between a roadster and fixed head coupe. XK 120 coupes are significantly less desirable compared to roadsters , for a number of reasons. I expect the project car in question will probably sell for something close to the asking price. One of the best post war British cars out there until you start talking about cars in the Aston Martin and Lister catagory. Needless to say , WAY more money. Notice the comparable XK series Roadster Hyman has { a XK 140, slightly down the pecking order from a XK 120 } is just shy of $300,000.00 not $150,000.00. I expect this car can be restored within a $250,000.00 budget by a capable owner. And then you know what you have.

Almost every old car in my area seems to be high priced these days. { Burnaby is only about 20 miles away from me } This one actually seems reasonable compared to many currently on the market. I think in many cases the hope is to snag a U.S. buyer and sell the car for great big , highly desirable greenbacks.

As John says, your local MG club. Dead easy cars to work on, and good spares back up. Moss stuff is often suspect , but they are the main source these days. Compare carefully to your old parts. A joy to drive. I own one today and have owned several over the years. Bought my first one in 1975 and never been without one since.

Extremely nice cars, pitty they have become so expensive. Only around a thousand of the large Facel Vega 2 doors were built. Not extremely rare , but hardly common either. Not a big fan of the 4 doors or the small sports cars although I could probably be tempted by one of the sports cars if the price was reasonable enough. But even they are quite expensive these days despite their mechanical problems and very limited parts availability

Wow ! Like 3macboys says, it's a good thing they are a long way away. Plus a border, only the ones with titles can be exported as far as I know. I would happily give one or two of these a home. Heck, it is only 1800 miles each way. How cheap is land in Nebraska ?

These late Facel Vega's seem to be quite scarce. I have only seen one in person. Unfortunately now well out of my reach. The odd, affordable HK 500 used to turn up, but those days are long gone.

Todays win might not seem like much, but I was chuffed none the less. I inherited my fathers 91 F150 ( 302 V8 ) when he passed away a few years ago. It had a bit of an exhaust leak for the last 5 years or so, but as neither my father when he still owned it, or myself once it became mine drove it very often, fixing it always stayed on the low end of the priority list. But this week I needed it and I noticed the leak had become a lot worse. Crawled under thinking the manifold to Y pipe connection had failed and found to my surprise a very cracked exhaust manifold. Today I let it run for 20 minutes to warm up the head as much as possible,and tackled the manifold to head bolts. Extremely tight as usual , but only one broke off. And there was still a 1 inch long piece of bolt sticking out of the head. One of the long bolts and it broke off very near the hex portion. But not a lot of diameter left due to rust, so getting it out was going to be a touchy job. I heated the exposed portion red hot and let things cool a few times just to use a bit of thermal expansion to hopefully loosen the bond between the bolt and the head as much as possible . And then used some parifin wax in an attempt to wick some lubricant down the threads. Used my stud remover and the bolt amazingly came loose instead of breaking off as I 1/2 { 3/4 actually } expected. A new manifold and some hardware and the old girl should be back in service . If only all exhaust manifold bolts / studs ended up this way. A nice little win as far as I am concerned.

It looks to be similar in size to the T parts so a relatively small car. Circa 1915 - early 1920's. But there were many on the market. Try Chevy , Dodge , Studebaker, Overland, Maxwell, Small Nash, 4 Cyl Buick. About all I can say is that it is not Ford. Could even be a small truck.

The Canadian market always puzzles me. Canadian and a car guy all my life. Much smaller market than the U.S. , but most of the U.S. models available in one form or another { probably 80% percent or better } plus a whole bunch of unique Canadian lines. I expect it was mostly due to Canadian dealership brand needs. Examples like the Canadian version of the Ford Falcon, the Frontenac. Created so the Canadian Mercury dealers would have a car to compete with the Canadian Ford dealers Falcons. One year only , 1960. They sold almost 8500 of them so I guess the tooling costs for the unique trim was paid for . { around 17,000 Canadian Falcons in 1960 } Ford of Canada seemed willing to do whatever it had to to keep its various dealers happy. Also Mercury trucks. I have owned a few of them over the years. But Canadian Ford trucks are much more common than the Mercury's.

I think he is refering to the fact the outer cone is threaded on to the spindle like on a Model T Ford. It might even interchange with a Model T bearing if you are very lucky. If the Chevy version is different it will probably be harder to find. But people who specialize in obsolete Chevy parts may be able to help.

GM made them as well. One ton rating, usually with a longer box, larger wheels and tires and heavier springs than the base model truck. But not quite the more normal flat deck and dual rear wheels of what we usually think of with a one ton. Quite popular with farmers here in Western Canada.

I " drove " , steered actually a friends 1912 Reeves Traction Engine . Not the largest , but still a quite large " Canadian Special ". The Canadian market engines had better boilers and heavier gearing than what the U.S. market machines normally had fitted. A proper plowing engine rather than one that would do most of its work as a stationary power source, threshing, saw milling etc. I am licenced on boilers of this size , but modern semi automatic boilers. The intricacies of running a 100 year old , completely manual boiler are outside my experence. So my friend tended to the boiler and throttle and I just steered it. As Terry said previously , even steering machines of this type are something that takes some time to get the hang of. Slack is necessary in the steering chain , so for every change of direction you first have to take up that slack. Then the wheels move reasonably quickly and the change of direction is quite abrupt. Lots of over correcting and many , many turns of the steering wheel. Not my friends engine , but one that is very close.

Two identical vs matched set. I think DrData is refering to the float bowls and possibly the choke linkage , except this is hard to see in your photos. Many / most dual carb set ups will have one float bowl at the front and one at the rear. This gives a lot more room for all the choke links and levers. Your float bowls are both to the front. Unusual for a dual carb installation.

It looks very similar to what Packard used on the 1915 and older , chain drive trucks.

I have a spare Cadillac 314 rolling chassis. Pacific North West. It's going cheap and a lot easier than building a dolly for the body.

To start with I would make up a single carb adapter and start with a Morris Minor or similar stock spec S.U.. Like Terry says , those are much newer carbs than your car. My guess would be early Sprite or Midget, circa 1960. Way too much carb for a small displacement , side valve from the 1920's. Best tool for setting the mixture on a S.U. , assuming the carb itself is in the " ballpark " regarding size and needle is a Gunson Colortune. Morris Minor or early Austin Mini set up should get you close. Then it is just a matter of set up.

The big 427 Galaxies have always been strong in British Saloon car racing. It's an odd class. Where else do 7 liter cars go door handle to door handle with a field of mostly 2 liter or sub 2 liter cars ?

Will you mail it to British Columbia , Canada ? Extra cost for postage is not a problem. Thanks , Greg

They were a popular project for High School auto shop classes back in the 1960's and early 1970's. When I did my teacher training back in the 1980's several school shops I was at had something similar gathering dust at the back of the shop. Usually based on something small like this Fiat. They were a great way to introduce grade 10's and 11's to basic vehicle construction. Usually some small car donated by a parent or former student. Cars today are too complicated and young people don't generally seem to have the ability to stick with a laborious task to build things like this anymore. Seems like a lot of money for something that is in reality a dust collector.

I am not saying there is a true parallel to automobiles , but for my working life re- powers were a reasonably common undertaking. Ships mostly { the last 30 years of my working life } but heavy equipment before that. As a machine got older parts became harder to obtain, but primarily the newer power plants got better fuel economy. Still the same machine { or ship } , just lower opperating costs per hour. Re- powers have been around a long time. I have a few advertising pieces talking about early truck re- power kits . Budda etc mid 1920's advertising drop in kits to update yout teens Mack, Federal ,White,Packard etc.

In the UK it would be considered quite restorable. But North America isn't the UK. It looks like a very good parts car. I think pkhammer has the right idea. I expect someone in the North West needs it. Have you tried advertising it on North West / Pacific North West , British car forums ?

E Type's and Healey 's are worlds apart from a driving point of view. The 3000 is a really great looking car that has a chassis firmly based in the early 1950's. Worm and peg steering with lots of links. The Jag is a big step forward with rack and pinion. and a well engineered , very modern for the early 1960's chassis. Good examples of either are a ton of money these days. So- So examples will send your wallet into cardiac arrest in pretty short order. SU carbs are nothing to be afraid of. Actually pretty simple once you understand them. Neither is a good choice for a non mechanic unless very deep pockets for maintenence and repair is part of the owner profile. The SL's are great cars, but hardly what I personally consider a " vintage car". A mid 1960's Vette is a pretty decent car. But lots have been through the mill over the years and may suffer from trouble beneath the shiny paint.