1912Staver

They all seem to be more or less identical in design. But they vary in size to suit the application. My 1918 Packard truck used them as well on the shaft that ran from the trans to the rear end. The shorter shaft from the clutch to the trans used rag joints. I suspect the ones for the GMC are going to be larger than the automotive Kissel ones. I am not sure how many different sizes were made .

In that case the V8 conversion seems like a reasonable choice. Looking forward to your updates. Too bad they are so expensive these days, yet another one I would like to own but can't possibly afford.

Nash Healey's can command some pretty high prices. Would the V8 swap effect the price in a similar way to what happens to Austin Healey's with V8's ? I know you are doing it for yourself, but sooner or later they all get sold. Is the V8 swap easily reversible ? It looks like a great project !

Nice car, but 100 Mile House is about 5 hours NORTH East of Vancouver. The location shown on the map in the CL ad is way off. Use Google maps to see where 100 Mile House actually is. Nice enough place, my sister lives there.

Did you see what the 5000 orig mile one sold for ? " Just " $75,000.00, and two other sold at the 60 K mark. Cheap wheels indeed.

Tr 6's have several problem points. I have owned a number of them starting with a TR 250 in 1975, same car as a TR 6 except some of the sheetmetal. The frames frequently fail where the lower control arm attaches { front } and where the rear trailing arm attaches. The mounts for the rear diff. assy tear out of the frame. Brand new , thicker material and re - inforced frames are available. Ratco, great product , BUT ! $6,500.00 plus $350 for the pallet plus shipping . Rear diffs break , fix is a Nissan R 200 rear diff and preferably the CV joint axle upgrade. Goodparts, axles are around $1,200 / pair. Much improved stub axles and axle bearings are part of the package. Diff kit is around $650. Engines spin their thrust bearings, Gearboxes break and O.E.M. parts are getting rare. 5 speed conversions cost a bomb. Decent cars, but a good one is getting very pricy.

Just a word of warning. I am pretty sure they came in both his and hers versions.

Same feeling here. Curious about the car. It's beyond my reach, but I like Locomobiles and would like to know more about this example. But I am not going to create some sort of account just to have a look.

Music to set your brain at ease while you ponder a problem out in the shop. { Substantlal sound system needed }

The ones I got paid to do. They get finished. Owned by people much wealthier than those of us who work { or at one time worked ] in the restoration game. The shop I worked at years ago produced some nice machines and I thoroughly enjoyed my part in the process. I like most aspects of vintage car work, some of the dirty jobs not so much. But as an average , middle class joe, I have never had the financial resources, shop set up etc. to complete a restoration of one of my own cars at my own place. Been picking away on some of my cars for almost 40 years now, perhaps some day I will win the lottery. It's a process, not a destination.

The last ship I worked on had a news stand / gift shop. Mostly staffed by middle age and older women. They played Abba almost non stop on the local PA . I finally had to tell them I would not correct any of their defects, loose shelves, stuck latches show case burnt out light bulbs in display cases etc. with that sort of sound going on in the background. Drove me right around the bend after 5 minutes or less . Please ladies, play some Soundgarden or Chains or something !

Morgan bare frame, typical of all the Morgans , post war, right up to the V8 cars. Not much to them , the V8 frames are quite a bit stronger.

Marcos is more or less a unit body but constructed with marine plywood.

Morgan chassis frame is steel. Flimsy , but 100 % steel. Construction is much like a T series MG or almost any 1920's American car. Here is one with much of the sheet metal removed.

Volvo 240's are great cars. I have owned a few of them. Rust kills them , but not as fast as many other cars. Most body parts and much trim is now NLA. Some repro parts are available, but very little sheetmetal. Using one as a daily driver gets harder with each passing year.

I often think it would be nice to have a new or almost new truck. But then I look at the price. Base price for the most basic model is $60,000 . Truly knock your socks off these days. All my life I have used old beater trucks. But that is getting harder with each passing year due to the same factors StanleyRegister mentions in his original post. I really only use my trucks for trailer towing and the odd large item pick up. Most years perhaps 8 or 10 trips , some years as little as 2 or 3. Gas around here is almost always the highest or nearly the highest priced in North America so I can't even think of using a truck for daily transport. I may just start using rentals. A reliable unit woud be nice, but for my needs I can't even remotely justify the cost.

On the 1991 F 150 I inherited from my father I am already running into parts availability problems. Most things are still reasonably easy to find , But something as simple as an engine oil dipstick seems to be pure unobtainium. Fits about 1988 - 1994 302's and NLA everywhere. None of the wreckers around here have anything that old. Had to be millions of them made. Even on ebay used ones are few and far between and priced very high when one does eventually show up.

The yellow paint is hardly appropriate. Probably not that bad a car , but by the time you paint it and tidy it up you better really want one.

Thanks for the information Peter. Lots of cars , and a few trucks. But most are machines I have never been in contact with. A few bread and butter machines , but most are what I would consider somewhat exotic.

I think a good number of them have been sitting long enough that is is a reasonably big task to get them roadworthy again. Cooling system problems, and a new set of tires / tubes can just by themselves set the owner back a pretty big amount. Both time and money. Prices are still quite high however. In my area at least. I have a feeling that will change over the next decade or so. Inflation is running wild and many households are clearly not keeping up.

The 25 year rule is fine by me. The HCCA cut off at 1915 does bug me to some degree. Quite a few 100 + year old cars that are too new for the HCCA. The 1915 and older cars still cary a steep premium as a result. A price obstacle I may never overcome with regards to having a running Brass Era car.

Does not look like a Jeffery. But I can only find a photo of a 1916. Several details wrong.

Looks like quite an odd distributor. What were they used on ?

I don't have anything against " newer " vintage cars. But I attend far fewer car events than I used to as a result of the dropping numbers of pre - war cars.

A scrapper had that ! Thank goodness you saved it. Clearly pre 1920 and probably a Brass Era engine. Great find. No I don't know what it is.