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Good news. The price negotiations went well and we arrived at a price both the seller and I were happy with. Got the car easily registered at the DMV today. New plates are in the trunk as the seller let me keep the YOM plates on the car. It was a nice sunny day, so I took the car out for a drive with the top down. A real pleasure to operate and slightly different from driving my ‘40 Chevy or ‘53 Packard. Each has its unique sounds, sight lines and handling which makes driving these old cars so much fun. Lots of waves and thumbs up from other drivers and pedestrians. The car has some minor cosmetic flaws, but I’m going to leave them alone. They’re part of the history of this car and I’m developing more of a “keep it original” mindset than trying to make everything perfect. I may even follow Ed’s lead and not wash it. Apologies to AJ and others, but I’ll keep the WWTs😀. No Trippe lights, spot lights or other accessories, however. Plan to drive it a lot and occasionally bring it to a local cars & coffee and maybe show it at the NC Region meet in Spencer, NC and SE Nationals in Charlotte this year and next. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and advice

The 32 3 window is different from the 5 window in a lot of respects. For one it has suicide doors. It also has a chopped roof and is sportier.

He is driving here from NY to discuss. I told him I would only work on the car after he had seen in person and we had agreed in writing how I would be proceeding. The rear wheel well wood was also done wrong. I believe only the floor with main sills I’ll be able to leave as is. What is pretty amazing to me is the owner supplied the body book and it shows a decent enough of pictures to recreate the wood at least in a usable way. While it might not be exact without the actual wood for patterns, the pictures would get you lose. The roof of this car is not close at all. The work is good enough for a Hollywood prop but that’s about it.

I am Currently working on a 1927 Buick Master. I had all intentions of making another aluminum hub with sealed bearings for the fan hub. So much so that I have updated my drawings with the dimensions so a person can make these hubs for a Standard or a Master. By the time I got into the cost of the aluminum and the machining, and the fact that the thing that I only really needed was to replace the felt seal with a modern lip seal, that is what I did. For Mid to late 20's Buick Master or Standard, the lip seal that you want is 26mm x 19mm x 5.5mm You can find these on Ebay for around $12. I did rough up the outer side of the lip seal using coarse sandpaper. I cleaned the area with lacquer thinner where the lip seal replaces the felt seal inside the fan hub I used silicone to adhere the seal into the place where the felt seal was. Others have used black RTV sealant. I used a deep socket to hold the seal in place for 24 hours to let the adhesive dry. I made two new 1/64" paper gaskets for the fan hub. You can see the lip seal inside the back end of the fan hub housing. I filled it with oil and everything looks great. A big improvement over felt. Hugh

Wow.

OH, I see what you mean. I forgot that we are looking at the strut from the back, not the front. You may be right on this. I'll go check it out.

I have seen it before……but can’t remember what it was on.

Absolutely nothing unusual about hack work……..and people paying thousands of dollars for it. Sadly, if the car were 90 points and running down the road, it would be a hard sell at 30k.

Here is the culprit!. Finally left handed drilled the broken piece out, started with a 1/8 that drilled thru and all the way to 1/4 that finally grabbed. Tedious job of slightly tilting and aligning the top to expose the bracket to be drilled. All with a little help of my friend (Not the Beatles)

Based on the picture showing the back fuel tank, it seems to be a Roadster does it run?

Here you go....rod bracket on the engine side of the hangy-down bracket.

Ford Australia imported these same Wheel Covers for our local 1973 Ford LTD. However, they painted the centre the same colour as the car. This local LTD replaced the imported 1972 Ford LTD 4 door Pillared Hardtops. No big Fords were available in Australia after the 1972 model.

I agree with Rod P,Someone may have that door and have no idea what it's off of,so pictures of the one you have,inside and out,handle and workings if possible. Measurements are also important. Good luck.

If I wasn't going to be moving in a few months I would grab them just to hang onto them in case someone needs them down the road. Would be a shame to send that stuff to the scrap yard.

When I was at the Reynolds-Alberta Museum in 2007, a 1918 was near completion in their restoration bays. The engine was a symphony of polished brass, bronze, and copper. Here's a good shot of the engine compartment, Wayne Shultz narrating: https://www.google.com/search?q=1918+Winton+at+Reynolds-Alberta+Museum&rlz=1CAQRFK_enUS752US752&oq=1918+Winton+at+Reynolds-Alberta+Museum&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160l3.18873j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:5d09c830,vid:1VPLQZ4I5mc,st:0

I think if you look more closely at the parts car guy's photo you will see the rod bracket is on the engine side of the hangy-down bracket. Looks to be on the flat area of it and not in the u-shaped area of it. And....the bend in the rod bracket is bending the wrong way. I think you need to flip the rod bracket around and attach it to the side of the hangy-down bracket closest to the engine. Make sense? That will also square the bottom, black angle bracket that attaches to the steering column collar. Call me if you want me to explain what I mean. 541-five three five, one eight nine zero.

How you going to break the bad news to him about the "quality" work he just had done?

I looked through two hood ornament,mascot books tonight and couldn't see it. It may be from one of the more limited production big trucks.

If you noticed the side roof rails are made up of pieces nailed with blocks in between the roof bows. Roof bows are all uneven heights. The side roof rail pieces aren’t even flush with the height of the metal in some places while others they’re too high. The rear roof upper rail is not under the nailing ovals in the sheet metal so there is no wood to nail the roof in. The outer edge of the drivers side roof rail is not wide enough to support the nail line for the roof edge and the installer hammered in the steel to fill the space left at the front of the roof header. What are your thoughts on this work?

Type “Tom Telesco Muscle Connecticut” into you Google browser for Tom’s phone number. Or open this older link from this forum.

Still more.

More.

If someone bought it all or even most of it, they would get an even better price !! I only bought it for the Wire Wheels & I hate junking any early parts ... but the clock is ticking & China is getting closer & closer ....

I had speaking with a customer with a 31 caddy who mentioned he also had a 30 Nash. He wanted to send me the Caddy and told me the Nash was out in Ohio where the body wood was being replaced by a guy considered one of the best. The guy ended up finishing the wood work so the owner called ad said he wanted to send me the Nash first. We discussed that the car would be a driver restoration and the owner mentioned some specific issues the car had because of a previous owner’s decision to cut out the rear of the car but I told him I was willing to look at the car and attempt to get it back together. The car arrived this past weekend end and I got a better look at the car. While I knew of the metal work issues i was assured the wood was expertly replaced to the tune of thousands by “one of the best in the business “! After looking at the car i called the owner to discuss. Have a look at the pictures and post what you think.

Thanks!