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  2. I have a 6k car.. Here is the last time I drove it.. Maybe it is time to pull it out of storage..
  3. Good family should be cherished as much as one can, while one can. I can see you have some good family there. Day by day, enjoy the lucid moments. Remember the better days. Make the best you can with time you have left. If I ever get my project looking like a real car, I will try to post a few pictures.
  4. Those Buicks had the most incredible looking mohair upholstery! I have seen several with the remains enough to be amazed by how beautiful it was! I have seen a few that were good enough to preserve and enjoy. But I cannot recall ever seeing one look as wonderful as this one does.
  5. I am sure I speak for us all when I say that we can’t wait to see pics when you are done! Thanks for hour kind words. This is what he looked like just 4 short years ago. 😢
  6. vl2, I have read many comments about your dad here. Good to see a picture of him. Mental issues are particularly sad and difficult to deal with. You have my sympathies. By the way. Grass Valium here today hit 80 degrees!. I may yet get my project painted.
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  8. I love it! Wish I could find a way to buy something like that. As to realistic value? An old friend of mine passed away about fifteen years ago. Among his cars were a couple late '20s Packard sixes. One of them was bought by a money-grubbing investor. A couple (maybe three or four now?) years ago, it came on the market again. A '28 (maybe '29) if I recall correctly, mostly original sedan with a mediocre '60s paint job. Otherwise, a very decent car. The investor marketed the car, listing after listing on eBad. The price started out at over $30K. Went down, and down, month after month, lower and lower. I really would have loved to have gotten it, but I am WAY too broke. But I watched. Decent, running, tourable. Took about a year. It finally sold, for just UNDER $10K. With the current interest in "true original survivor" cars, I suspect this one should go for somewhat more.
  9. You can try peyton auto salvage yard.. http://www.usedautopartsdealers.com/state/nebraska/eastern_nebraska_auto_recyclers.php
  10. hello , I have an excellent roof mounted exterior sunvisor/shield that came off a 51 Kaiser im not going to use, it is adjustable for width and angle, asking $200, also a nib 51 Kaiser steering wheel, asking $400, shipping x-tra on these ,doug 740-285-2298
  11. Amen to that. If the price of owning cars like that is being a member of that family, I'll thank God for my somewhat rusty drivers. (Thankfully there are are tons of great people who also own and build top tier show cars.)
  12. After having a closer look to the front axle I realized that both front shocks are missing. The whole equipment is gone. Don't know how they drove like this and how the handling of the car will be... According the books the type is a Delco-Remy 1500-A and 1500-B for right and left front. It fits Models 47-47S-48-50-51-54C and 55 I also need the two shock absorber strap studs for the front axle.
  13. absolutely correct. sorry, my mistake.
  14. I believe your car is a bargain at $3400 and I don't think a starting price of $4500 was unreasonable. That starting price gave you some room to work with a buyer. Since you purport to be a car collector and you track the prices of cars on Craigslist all the time, I'm surprised you are doing such a poor job of marketing your car. Although it is a hard fact to swallow for anyone selling their car, the amount you paid for the car and the amount of money you have spent on the car has very little influence on what a buyer will pay for it. I know this all too well because I have probably got twice as much in my Reatta as I could get out of it. As a seller you should do everything you can to make the buyer want your car when they see your ad. With all due respect it seems you tried to do right the opposite. As much as you look at CL ads you have to know that photos are the most important part of a CL ad, but the photos you posted seem to be an afterthought. Potential buyers look at the photos first and then move on if they don't like what they see. Photos are what hooks a buyer and makes him want to read more about your car. Look at the photos below and you will see what I mean. We both took photos of our cars in the driveway. I just put more effort into taking mine. Photos describe your car much better that words ever can. In your ad you did a decent job of describing the car but it seems you were mad at the car when you wrote it. If the car is dirty why didn't you run it through the car wash so you didn't have to say that? If the window needs a new switch why didn't you fix it instead of saying you will work on it? Comments like that plus the comment you removed about the car NOT being collectable is what I call shooting yourself in the foot. Your strategy of dropping the price everyday might work but it's going to cost you a lot of money. That strategy is only encouraging a buyer watching your ad to do as Dave said and wait as long as possible before making you an offer. You would be much better off if you pull your current CL ad and post it again with lots of good photos that show the car in a way that would make someone want to buy it. Lots of interior photos are important. They tell a buyer how well the car has been treated. Write text in your ad that will highlight the good things your car has to offer and fix anything that would cause you to write something negative about the car.. I'm not wanting to put down you or your car. I wrote this to help you see that the ad you posted is hurting the sale of what appears to be a really nice Reatta at a decent price. If you want me to delete this post just say so and it will be gone.
  15. Has anyone attempted to modify a mid-'30s engine originally equipped with a bypass oil filter, to become full-flow by modifying the block to support either a period-correct canister with replaceable cartridge or possibly even a modern spin-on? Another possibility might be the combination full-flow/bypass system utilizing a "dual-range" spin-on filter. For either option, how was the block modified? Obviously, the oil path within the block would have to be altered, at least slightly. Vintage bypass oil is highly filtered, but doesn't go directly to the moving parts. A full-flow system would seem to suggest all moving parts receive oil having at least some filtration. Encouragements and caveats welcomed. Thanks, Bill.
  16. That is an interesting tire on the front in the second photo. What is it? It doesn't look like "chains" or anything similar.
  17. www.restorationstuff.com sells the copper/asbestos substitute gaskets. Think metric though. I think I had an easier time of duplicating the size in metric ID.
  18. Anyone have a 35 Mopar parts book to know if that is what this is?
  19. There is a company out there called RG Relining. You can find them on the internet. They reline old, overcut brake drums with new cast iron. I found them for one of my cars with overcut drums and spoke with them. I never used them because I eventually found a pair of passable drums.
  20. These are likely special six pistons, 19 to 26. In 19 the special six was called the light six and renamed in 1920 to the special six. As the new light six line was introduced in 1920. I believe the special six might have been exported as the light six also.
  21. Steve, Your bodywork skills are impressive. Dick Arnett 29 HUPP
  22. Take a flat file and shine up the copper on both sides of the banjo and also on the top of the tank or vacuum tank, and on the caps. A little Permatex helps too.
  23. 395 point judged 1971 "If you want the best." https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Buick-Riviera-Riviera/254204482157?hash=item3b2fc4926d:g:Pm0AAOSwQXdcuR9i
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