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I'm from the San Diego La Jolla area and I didn't know they had a car show there. I would have thought that it would be impossible to park all of those cars. La Jolla cove area is notorious for having parking spaces tight as a drum!

As I’m sure most folks have already seen, I picked up a free roached 1950 Nash Ambassador. I was able to get the hood open today and found a very complete decent looking inline-6. It probably ran when parked, the plugs are fresh and the oil was very clean which was surprising. I’m betting it’s solid, will need some TLC to be perfect of course but it looks good and well taken care of. It’s a bit soon to be asking as I haven’t fully looked the car over to see if it’s worth saving as a whole, and I haven’t fully decided if I want to start parting.. but should I decide to pull it what can I do with it? Whatever I put it in, I don’t want the hydramatic behind it. Nothing personal against it, I’d just prefer a simpler 3-speed or so but I’m not sure what bolts up to it yet. Any help appreciated, thank you!

Don't you just hate people who can do things like that? 😉

Wasn't it Elon Musk's grandpa the creator of the Tucker? Or is that just a rumor?

I can guarantee you, I don't see these on the road everyday, week, year, decade, and maybe century. Very great car!

Thank you for the info 1939_Buick !

I need to make a correction about this pic. The flange in this above pic is mounted backwards on the steering column collar. The black flange should come out over the shift lever side.

My observation has been that the number stamped on the sensor is to match the gauge upper limit rather than the ohms max. Seemed to correlate to me as being "pressure". FEW people understand "ohms", but they know about "pressure". BTAIM I've found factory gauges (of any brand) to be two things. Accurate enough and "for reference". BUT you have to check them to see what they are doing! Happy Spring! NTX5467

John, I do believe you are right. I've already fastened the upper steering column clamp to the dashboard, but I still screwed the strut to upper flange. It makes the strut hang straight down, which I think is the best way. Great illustration by the way as you always do. Marc.

They wouldn't let you guys have any fun

Good news. The price negotiations went well and we arrived at a price both the seller and I were happy with. Got the car easily registered at the DMV today. New plates are in the trunk as the seller let me keep the YOM plates on the car. It was a nice sunny day, so I took the car out for a drive with the top down. A real pleasure to operate and slightly different from driving my ‘40 Chevy or ‘53 Packard. Each has its unique sounds, sight lines and handling which makes driving these old cars so much fun. Lots of waves and thumbs up from other drivers and pedestrians. The car has some minor cosmetic flaws, but I’m going to leave them alone. They’re part of the history of this car and I’m developing more of a “keep it original” mindset than trying to make everything perfect. I may even follow Ed’s lead and not wash it. Apologies to AJ and others, but I’ll keep the WWTs😀. No Trippe lights, spot lights or other accessories, however. Plan to drive it a lot and occasionally bring it to a local cars & coffee and maybe show it at the NC Region meet in Spencer, NC and SE Nationals in Charlotte this year and next. Thanks again for all of the suggestions and advice

The 32 3 window is different from the 5 window in a lot of respects. For one it has suicide doors. It also has a chopped roof and is sportier.

He is driving here from NY to discuss. I told him I would only work on the car after he had seen in person and we had agreed in writing how I would be proceeding. The rear wheel well wood was also done wrong. I believe only the floor with main sills I’ll be able to leave as is. What is pretty amazing to me is the owner supplied the body book and it shows a decent enough of pictures to recreate the wood at least in a usable way. While it might not be exact without the actual wood for patterns, the pictures would get you lose. The roof of this car is not close at all. The work is good enough for a Hollywood prop but that’s about it.

I am Currently working on a 1927 Buick Master. I had all intentions of making another aluminum hub with sealed bearings for the fan hub. So much so that I have updated my drawings with the dimensions so a person can make these hubs for a Standard or a Master. By the time I got into the cost of the aluminum and the machining, and the fact that the thing that I only really needed was to replace the felt seal with a modern lip seal, that is what I did. For Mid to late 20's Buick Master or Standard, the lip seal that you want is 26mm x 19mm x 5.5mm You can find these on Ebay for around $12. I did rough up the outer side of the lip seal using coarse sandpaper. I cleaned the area with lacquer thinner where the lip seal replaces the felt seal inside the fan hub I used silicone to adhere the seal into the place where the felt seal was. Others have used black RTV sealant. I used a deep socket to hold the seal in place for 24 hours to let the adhesive dry. I made two new 1/64" paper gaskets for the fan hub. You can see the lip seal inside the back end of the fan hub housing. I filled it with oil and everything looks great. A big improvement over felt. Hugh

Wow.

OH, I see what you mean. I forgot that we are looking at the strut from the back, not the front. You may be right on this. I'll go check it out.

I have seen it before……but can’t remember what it was on.

Absolutely nothing unusual about hack work……..and people paying thousands of dollars for it. Sadly, if the car were 90 points and running down the road, it would be a hard sell at 30k.

Here is the culprit!. Finally left handed drilled the broken piece out, started with a 1/8 that drilled thru and all the way to 1/4 that finally grabbed. Tedious job of slightly tilting and aligning the top to expose the bracket to be drilled. All with a little help of my friend (Not the Beatles)

Based on the picture showing the back fuel tank, it seems to be a Roadster does it run?

Here you go....rod bracket on the engine side of the hangy-down bracket.

Ford Australia imported these same Wheel Covers for our local 1973 Ford LTD. However, they painted the centre the same colour as the car. This local LTD replaced the imported 1972 Ford LTD 4 door Pillared Hardtops. No big Fords were available in Australia after the 1972 model.

I agree with Rod P,Someone may have that door and have no idea what it's off of,so pictures of the one you have,inside and out,handle and workings if possible. Measurements are also important. Good luck.

If I wasn't going to be moving in a few months I would grab them just to hang onto them in case someone needs them down the road. Would be a shame to send that stuff to the scrap yard.