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  2. The way most cars are wired the front turn and indicators use the same circuit. The rears to keep from back feeding the fronts and causing the fronts to also light with the brake pedal pressed are run separately. Since the brake lights and turn lights are the same bulb.I would suspect the turn signal switch. I would disconnect the wires from the switch and send power to each bulb from that point. If they are bright then you have a bad switch. If they are dim I would trace the wires back.
  3. Yes indeed, repro. It’s getting to where original signs bring as much as old cars.
  4. Try a thermostatic fan clutch. It worked beautifully on our Caballero. For long runs, with air, I added a temporary electric fan in front of the radiator. The electric was necessary for long stop lights.
  5. Matt that was something that confused me as well. You however posted a link to Robert's Rules For Dummies which stated something to the effect you cannot vote not to accept minutes unless you offer a correction which was a surprise to me. Seems to me there were a couple corrections requested that were changed prior to the vote. Then when it came time to vote some members voted against accepting the minutes because they wanted dialogue added to the minutes which isn't so much of a correction as it is an addition. Minutes as a rule generally are not a verbatim conversation of everything that was said at a meeting consequently it wasn't considered a correction and their votes consequently ruled null and void. I'm not agreeing or disagreeing with any of the actions, but that is how I understand it. If I'm wrong hopefully someone will correct me. If the board members want a conversation added to the minutes perhaps if they make a motion to have something added that would be the proper way to include more information or dialogue.
  6. Studebaker used the same Bendix part #R11X from 1920 to 1929 regardless of using a Wagner or a Remy starter. Starting in 1930 they used R11XV which used a larger counterweight for better cold weather starting.
  7. That sure looks like a shortened version of the Otis electric van: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?48299-Orphan-of-the-Day-1975-Otis-Electric-Delivery-Vehicle Craig
  8. Check First Born's chronicles of his highway fuel economy improvements. In theory, a TBI is just a fancy electronic carburetor, which makes any improvements in the areas of fuel atomization, not specifically better performance due to a possibly higher cfm flow through the unit at WOT (for the 2bbl TBIs). The GM TBI for the '87 5.0 and 5.7L V-8 pickups was 1.56" throttle bores, but the one for the 454s was 1.69" But they used their "normal" 3-bolt hold-down rather than a more normal 4-bolt hold down. I suspect that the 454 unit would flow close to 475cfm, as the same size throttle bores on a Holley 2300 2-bbl carb was 500cfm. The smaller unit might be closer to 375, which might well be equal to or a bit better (in air flow) than the earlier 4bbl units of the '50s. So, it's more about more efficient use of fuel due to better atomization (which also impacts general drivability) than massive increases in power. Seems like Electromotive was the first one to offer a universal in-tank fuel pump module? Had to hole-saw the top of the tank to install it, as I recall. That was several years ago. Now, Holley has many OEM-style in-tank units for many vehicles, to their credit. Enjoy!' NTX5467
  9. Yes......although the shifter is in a strange position.
  10. Tried all the usual tricks to no avail. Not wanting to pull the tranny but apparently no choice. Advice? Never worked on a '39 tranny. I assume we can remove it without pulling engine? Anyone been there and done that?
  11. I don't want casual observers of the site to think we all have our heads in the sand. really? that's a concern?
  12. Today
  13. All the Daniels I've seen had port holes in the hoods, the one feature that stands out in my memory. Bob
  14. Is the L29 totally manual shift? Bob
  15. I wonder how many cars used the friction-drive system. Cartercar started in 1905, but John W. Lambert patented the system Carter used in 1904. A few dozen makers followed, including Waltham, Metz, Sears, Lambert, etc. It would be interesting to search the "Standard Catalog" to see. Phil
  16. Hi Jan I plan on replating whatever I find. So long as the dimensions match and the curvature of the bars is similar to the photos, I'm interested in what you have. Do you have brackets ? Thanks. Jim
  17. A difference which applies to both Fords and Plymouths of the 1920s, and maybe others, is the use of Robinson screws in Canadian cars vs Phillips in US cars.
  18. Peter, Please clarify, is this a place to discuss the minutes, or simply a place for an announcement that the minutes are available for viewing? It seems that whenever any real discussion of the minutes occurs, the discussion gets deleted. I am still trying to understand how 3 board members can approve a set of minutes when 5 board members disapprove of the wording of those minutes. In previous discussion, we learned that those 5 members votes were ruled out of order and the minutes were approved over their objections. When a majority of the board does not agree that the wording of the minutes is an accurate representation of what occured in the meeting, but the minutes are approved anyway, that seems like a subject worthy of discussion, if this is actually a place to discuss the minutes.
  19. 1936 Buick Model 40 Four Door Sedan. Great Example of a survivor! Vin number 2993487. 79,237 showing on odometer. I have copies of Previous owner spent over 10,000 on this car at a restoration shop. Original “Straight 8” engine runs and sounds great; gauge show 50 pounds of oil pressure and generator charges good. The gas tank was removed and taken to Roppel’s Radiator Shop where they cleaned it thoroughly, soldered up any rust holes and coat the tank inside and out with baked epoxy coating, in March of 2019 I installed a new Carter electric fuel pump. It has a factory radio which does not currently play. Older paint job that looks good as is for the “GO CAR”. Some windows are cracked or are delaminating allow moisture between the glass, but it is all flat glass that can be cut by a local glass shop. Windows Raise up and down smoothly. Brakes are weak and will need attention to be safe on the road. Mohair Upholstery may possibly be the original interior, front seat lower cushion has badly torn area. White wall tires were installed by previous owner but have had little if any mile put on them. Located in Hillview near Bellsmill Road and Preston Hwy. Calls or text 502-550-2797 Payment in Cash only. PLEASE NO CHECKS, WIRE TRANSFERS OR TRADES CONCIDERED. Local Pick up only, I WILL NOT SHIP THIS CAR TO YOU. PLEASE DO NOT CONTACT ME TO HELP ME SELL THIS CAR!
  20. Same sealers that you use for a gas tank. I've been using the Bill Hirsch alcohol resistant gas tank sealer for gas and vac tanks since it came out about 20 years ago. Works very well with all brands of ethanol and e-free gasoline. . Paul
  21. A number of years ago, I wanted to take my Cord to the ACD meet and have it certified. The shifting had become problematic on the car, however, so I called a well known fellow in the ACD club about doing some work on the car. "Are you going to drive the car?" he asked. Yes, I said, not a tremendous amount of miles but I do plan to drive it. "Then YOU need to get into the shifting mechanism and fix it, so that you understand it. If you break down on the side of the road, YOU need to be able to figure out the problem, because I guarantee that no one else can help you...." So, I dove into the shifting issues, step by step. Yes, I'm an engineer. Yes, I'm handy, having restored numerous cars over the years with my own two hands. And I was successful in fixing it, from eliminating slack in the shifting mechanism to replacing vacuum diaphragms to sorting out the wiring and switches. The Cord shifting sequence is fairly simple, when you break it down into it's component parts. The thing that one must remember is that EVERYTHING must be in tip-top condition and EVERYTHING must work. Each shift is a sequence of events where electrical switches and routing of vacuum (solenoids) and usage of vacuum must all come together to get the correct gear engaged. I'm reminded of an HTST pasteurization machine (high temperature short time) that I became very familiar with in the dairy industry. It was simple in concept, but had SO many things that could shut it down. It, too, was a sequence of events and every event had to be dead on, I always stated that it was designed NOT to run, and only if everything was perfect would it run. The Cord shifting is similar to that..... One side note, regular engine vacuum is actually too much for the system to work properly. Of course, it's not the vacuum that's causing the force, but rather the atmospheric pressure on the other side of the diaphragms that move the shift lever. If a shift cylinder is engaged, one cannot exert enough force physically to move it from that position, it's that strong. Someone in the ACD club sells a vacuum regulator, so that you can adjust the vacuum supplied to the shift cylinders. When I was installing the copper vacuum line on my car, it accidently got crimped slightly. It so happened that it was the perfect crimp, holding back just enough vacuum to make the shifts smooth on my car! That won't win any awards judging, but neither will the rest of the car, so I left it as is....
  22. I agree with Dave about no recommended service interval for the timing chain. If you had a 88 I would do them at 100K. Mine had 110 on it when I did mine. 88's have a small timing chain tensioner from factory that was revised in 89. On my car the tensioner was shot and chain had lots of slack in it. I installed the revised tensioner which has a much larger contact surface then the small one.
  23. Right hand lane of cars. Next to the blue VW Beetle thats driving up to the crest of the hill.
  24. As far as I know there is no service interval for the timing chain. The Red had 260,000 and never changed the chain. When we took it apart after doing the engine swap it was pretty loose. The Black has over 300,000 on the car but about 200,000 on the engine [second one] and haven't swapped it out and probably won't as I plan on one last winter and then get rid of it. The 'vert has 120,000 and still seems fine. So my opinion is until you get the code 041 I would leave it be. When that happens do the magnet, sensor and chain.
  25. Thanks for your help Jon37, I will try Mr. Cooper. Jim
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