1955 In Dash AC Install

[KAD36]

Have wanted to add AC to the Buick for a number of years and finally took some time to figure it out and settle on an approach.  Read numerous posts, some of the more informative ones on the AACA, HAMB, and Tri Five chevy sites, on everything from universal systems to custom (you pick and mix/match the parts) systems. Also picked Mikes (Buick5563) experience as I saw his underdash system at Charlotte and that it blew ice cubes.  There are no prepackaged systems for a 55 Buick out there.

 

My intent was to have an install approach that

1) didn't look too much like an aftermarket add on - keep the clean dash lines to the greatest extent possible (i.e avoid an underdash unit or generic component type brackets visible unless there was no other way to make this work),

2) avoid cutting or drilling the firewall or the dash 

3) keep as much of a glove box as possible and sacrifice the factory radio if necessary (a hidden stereo installed since the 80s and the factory unit has only hummed unused for 30 years - I have no plans to restore it)

4) retain present dash control operation for defrost, vent, heat, integrate with the AC where feasible (intent to keep the cable controls), keep the factory heater system and 

5) avoid adding any additional controls beyond what the factory would have used for AC in 55 (a fan and thermostat switch assy).

 

I narrowed my choices down to Vintage Air (VA),  Old Air Products (OAP) and Classic Auto Air (CAA).   I'm not going to start a favorite AC supplier war, but suffice to say internet research and customer reviews are all over the map on everything from unit performance to service and there was no smoking gun winner.  I think its safe to say any of the above 3 will cool a full size car and there are numerous variations that can affect performance from condenser sizing, airflow, proper charge,  and much to be said for the condition of vehicles weather strips and interior insulation for the AC to be effective.  So my intent is to share my supplier experience and what fit this car best.

 

Tearing the dash apart (have had lots of practice at this), removing the glove box, ashtrays and clock, defroster air plenum and 4 defroster hoses, keeping only the head unit for the radio, and making some cardboard mockups gave a good idea of free space to work with:

 

 

Below is a comparison of the Old Air Products Hurricane system and the Classic Auto Air system evaporators.

 

And the Hurricane unit compared to a Mark IV underdash mockup just to get a comparison in case the in dash approach went in the ditch

 

 

I looked hard at Vintage Air for the Mark IV and the Gen 2 as Jay Lenos 55 advertises a Vintage Air Gen 2 unit.  For the life of me with a cardboard mockup and much swearing I could not fathom how they got it to fit behind the dash and both the lower radio chassis and glove box had to go to make it fit.  A Gen 4 would not go either, and a Gen 2 compac would probably fit, but it was unclear to me from conversations with the supplier and researching posts if the compac had the same capacity as the full size Gen 2.  My Q&A session on the phone with VA was fairly brief and I came away with no new information.  My call to CAA was fairly informative, no real input on how to install it for the Buick but would help if I had issues, and was possible to integrate with the dash controls - details TBD.  What the CAA had going for it was a shallow profile (depth and height), but it was wider (intrude more into the glove box where my stereo was) and the defroster ducts were facing front and back, necessitating a few inches of additional drop and forward positioning to make an S-turn to hook into the factory defroster ducts.  It would fit behind the dash.  The Old Air Products Hurricane unit fit well, only hung down below the dash about 4 inches (less than a underdash unit), offered a cable operated version, and didn't interfere with the passengers leg room or the glove box.  Plus the defroster ducts conveniently lined up under one of the factory defroster ducts - straight shot with only 5 inches of hose.

 

 

The OAP tech I spoke with, John, was very patient with my questions and although it was after his closing hours he stayed on the call with me and worked through my design details and concerns.  He mentioned their sales manager, Rick, would be at the Syracuse Nationals and I could see one in operation there.  I met Rick at the Nationals bringing my 3 pages of dash and wiring drawings, vent options,  firewall and engine compartment measurements, hose routings, dash control push/pull to activate/inches of travel of each of the dash cables and the cables current and new length needed if integrating to the AC unit, water flow through the system for heating purposes, my proposed itemized parts list, and remaining questions.  He got kind of quiet, tossed my daughter a package of Oreos and a free T-Shirt and said "better have a seat dear, this ones gonna take awhile".  Almost 90 min later we were done and I was carting 3 boxes of AC parts home. 

 

Super knowledgeable guy - my experience with Rick and John was that both listened carefully taking a genuine interest in the projects design objectives and offered some good suggestions and concerns unique to the design (all which turned out to be accurate), gave me some extra parts "just in case", told me what I didn't need and why, and I saved shipping costs and got a show discount.  Incidentally, VA was also at the show so was able to see how well the units performed and sounded side by side - I was pretty happy with the Hurricane unit.  The unit was quiet and the only noise was the air coming out the vents in the demo setup with the blower on high.  I felt this supplier took time with me where others either had not or simply quoted me general sales brochure information thus lacking fresh ideas or solutions to unique problems.

 

One of my ideas which turned out to be a lapse in judgement was routing two of the centered dash vents behind and through the radio grill (where the speaker used to be), and there are designs that OAP has that do that effectively, however on the Buick Ricks concern was the radio speaker slits were so narrow they would diffuse the air creating a cool spot vs moving in and it might be noisy, vs a clean blast of air pointing up high that you want to circulate air through the vehicle and help cool occupants. I had calculated there was enough open free space through the grill so it "should work", but to be sure tried a more practical approach with a hair dryer on a hose through the vent for a test run and he was right - not much flow up toward your face - my hope was if I could block off the back of the speaker area in its entirety the CFM of the AC unit would push the air through and make a difference (it didn't).  The "through grill" option OAP offers worked better on grills with much wider slots - one of those was on display.

 

These are the two ineffective through the grill vent designs.  Take the grill away and the vents airflow will knock you into next week.  Currently left 1 vent behind the grill (can feel some air to the mid center) and put a slimline vent underneath the dash next to the lighter (that blows a force of air up to the roofline and to the back of the car).

 

 

The 2100 series unit has plumbing mounts on the side vs rear.  The install plan was to run the refrigerant hoses through a blockoff plate that would be added over the passenger floor vent door and through the vent housing that holds the deforster motor, having the hoses exit to the far left and lower part of the housing so the cutouts in the firewall duct would not be obvious.  The defrost cable on the dash would go to the defrost lever on the evaporator (the Hurricane unit).  What used to be the passenger vent control would be hooked to the factory defroster damper door outlet on the kickpanel.  Removing the defroster plenum from the damper door outlet and slightly rotating the existing 4 inch hose routes fresh air toward both the passenger and the inlet of the AC fan.  Provided the Ranco valve is turned off with no leak past the valve, the air should be the same temp as if coming through the floor vent.  To mount the unit, I made up some brackets from 1/8 inch steel that used existing standoffs on the firewall.  These standoffs used to hold the passenger vent grill, firewall insulation, and/or retaining clips to the firewall - all existing mounts that were within a few inches of the retaining pattern for the Hurricane unit.   A 30 amp relay was added to the accessory

terminal of the fuse panel and switched in 30 amp battery source jumped from the 10 gauge wire on the headlight switch - thanks to Willie for that lesson learned so the Ammeter works right (i.e - remember all loads should be downstream of the ammeter vs the typical initial thought of jumping off the battery switch block on the fender for 30 amp power).

 

 

With power hooked up and trying out the fan, it verified the through grill design had to go.  I kept 1 vent behind the grill and mounted one of Ricks slim line "just in case" vents between the control pod and the lighter.  I made an engine turned control panel to match the engine turning on the dash.  Also mounted 2 vent pods in either corner of the dash.   The passenger ashtray had to be shortened a few inches so when retracted it would not interfere with the hoses to the center vents.  The wires to the lighter, clock, radio dial light, and glove box had to be slightly extended to provide for better routing.  The interior was done - the stereo and a new glove box liner design would come later.  Wiring in the last picture is for the stereo, not the AC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Under the hood, the condenser made me loose my religion.  The unit is 16 x 21 , biggest that would fit.  Mounting it even with the outer edge of the radiator support was a fail as once it was all assembled, I found out the hood latch support wouldn't fit.  Trashed a perfectly good set of stainless steel mounts that were thrown in the kit "just in case". There were a number of designs where the condenser was inches from the radiator and worked fine, however the research consensus was it should be 3/8 or so from the radiator to pick up the flow from the fan and maintain a smooth flow of air over the radiator - further away from the radiator was reported by some to cause cooling efficiency loss over the radiator due to air turbulence between the condenser and radiator, and not forcing the fan to pull air through the condenser at idle.  Others said no issue.  Closer seemed more practical to me - the radiator measured out at about a 2.5 deg angle tilted back toward the engine so I made some brackets to copy that alignment.  I am quite certain the neighbor must have come in the garage when I wasn't looking, stole my beer and changed all my notes because at 3 am the measurements were dead nuts and at 8 am when cutting metal everything changed.  There was no obvious reason to double check it (HA! - cut twice and still too short) It turned out 1/4 inch space between condenser and radiator on the bottom and about 1 1/4 inch on top.  I may fix that later and can converge on the right dimensional fit.  The drier was mounted to the left of the condenser behind the grill with the binary switch on the drier and in the moving airflow.  The remote mount drier kit (mounts drier to condenser) ended up not fitting.  When it was all assembled, the passenger horn didn't fit any more - the hoses were in the way, so got to do it over a third time and drop the drier down about an inch or so for the horn to fit.

 

 

 

 

Last was the compressor.  Thanks again to Buick5563 for the main bracket.  I made up a support brace for the rear of the compressor, measured up a 13/32 x 61 5/8 belt at NAPA, and had the local shop add in about 1.8 lbs of R134, with the result in the last photo going full blast at idle (note it was only in the low 70s so not a hot day yet to test):

 

 

Additionally, without linking to the dreaded fan clutch thread, that a 19.25 inch 6 blade Derale fan was added to the engine on a standard fan clutch and the radiator recored at a local Endicott shop from the standard 9/16 on center spacing (which was a current recore - not factory original) to 3/8 on center Heavy Duty recore.  The 19 inch fan is the largest that will fit in the shroud and I had to adjust the shroud up a few tenths of an inch to center the fan in the opening and not rub.  I may still opt for a HD fan clutch but will wait for a 85+ degree day to test it all out.  My prior overheating issues have been solved with the increased capacity radiator and fan - if the temp gauge gets up past 200 (200 = N on my gauge) revving the engine brings it down - AC on or off.  The fan will suck paper to the grill and to the condenser, so it seems to be moving the air pretty well.  More checking to do.  Once there are a few miles on it, will add in the second belt drive to the compressor pulley. Does not seem to be required but prefer the looks.

 

It hasn't been hot enough here yet to really try the system out - I ordered some insulation for the floor - there is some "Reflectex" from Home Depot n there now and its not very effective.  I also need new weatherstrip but not doing that until the door jambs get painted.  Pretty happy with it so far - already experienced the evaporator freezing up through one of my "tests", so know how to avoid that if on the road.  There will still be a few quirks to work out, like did we get enough charge in it (instructions say 28-32 ounces - we have the pressures on the low side - want to say it was 25 lbs on the low pressure side and it was about 60-65 deg ambient that morning).

 

The dehumidified defrost is a big plus.  I'm debating hooking the heater up - you can't "blend" heat and cool with this unit, you have to turn the AC off and then run the heat.  I don't know why that would be needed unless heated defrost was wanted - actually to do that the passenger aux heater can be turned on, and with the vent control opening the old defroster damper door, the warm air blows right on the AC fan intake and it circulates the warm air to the windshield.  Pretty neat.

 

Anyone have tips for keeping the aluminum compressor looking fresh and not chalky?  Its the raw unpolished finish version. Don't really want to paint it black.

 

Hope this helps anyone considering AC for their car and perhaps they can improve on the design - was a fun project, very doable. 

 

 

 

 

[Beemon]

Great write up and great pictures Ken. I've been trying to figure this one out myself, and finally settled on a system. You should made a post a while ago! There's a guy local in Washington that is making a direct bolt on unit that is near identical to the 56 setup, but also for the 55s, too. It goes through your normal duct system, too. I can't tell from your pictures, did you route the hoses through the drain hole on the plenum?

[KAD36]

Thanks Beemon - saw that system before on eBay and had a couple of concerns with the approach and how it would perform on a really hot day.  I was after something for less cost with a wider proven user base and a warranty.  I thought tucking an electric fan out of site behind the condenser was a good idea if a person wanted to use one and didn't want to see it.

 

2 holes were cut in the air plenum out of site and the lines were run through grommets in all cases, not the bulkhead connectors (they didn't fit the curve).  I tried going through the drain holes and the loop up of the refrigerant line didn't look right.

 

I still have to fiddle with the center venting somehow, but will wait until a hot day and see how it works.

 

[EmTee]

8 hours ago, KAD36 said:

Anyone have tips for keeping the aluminum compressor looking fresh and not chalky? 

 

Ken - awesome installation!  (I'd expect nothing less from you...)  My first thought on the compressor would be to spray it with a clear urethane.  I guess second best would be a silver paint.  A local auto finishing supply should be able to mix any color you desire and package in rattle cans using better quality material than you'd get from the hardware store shelf.

[MrEarl]

Ken, I moved this here from Me and My Buick so it would get more visibility and make for a better search. I also considered changing the title to "Genius At Work".....

 

Great ideas and thanks so much for the wonderfully detailed write-up. It's got the makings of a great Buick article, eh Pete?

 

BTW I am still working on getting an original switch base for you, but dang, yours looks great.!!!

[KAD36]

Got it - thanks for the comments Lamar - wasn't sure which place to put it.  Still hoping you can find something in your travels.  Happy to help with an article if folks are interested.

 

2 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

My first thought on the compressor would be to spray it with a clear urethane.

 

Tim - thanks - like that first thought.  I was almost going to ask if I had to prime it but then that would be a dopey question.

 

 

 

Edited July 28, 2017 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

Congrats on a great install and a riveting write up!  You make everything look so easy!!!  Where did you put the drain from the evaporator?

 

[KAD36]

Thanks JD.  The evap hose was run through an opening in the floor pan just below where the drain hoses are attached to the body so when the air ducts drain hose is seated in the toeboard clamp, it hides the evaporator hose.  Running it right below the evaporator or following the crease between the floor pan and transmission tunnel would have dripped on the transmission.  The vinyl tubing didn't look right sticking out so I painted some 1/2 inch PCV fittings, used a right angle fitting and brought it through the floorboard.  A small cut in the insulation and it was all level.

 

 

Incidentally, anyone who has ever touched the petrified rubber strip that is attached to the bottom of firewall insulation and had it crack and shatter, a cost effective alternative until you want to "fix it right" is to use regular garage door seal which is in the first photo above.  Some contact cement on both sides and it can be cut to fit and will sit good and snug against the carpet.  None the wiser unless you hunt for it.  The rubber seal on my car was tattered and shattered (similar to the fragile seal on the steering column to firewall base).

 

To clarify the evaporator mount points - in photos below 1) is the standoff to the left of the radio that holds the control cables, 2) the bracket mounted to the standoffs that held the black grill around the passenger floor damper 3) the 3 mount points of the evaporator rear and 4) the three 1/8 steel brackets - the long straight piece goes across the back of the evaporator to the top 2 bolts and picks up the control cable standoff and the "offset piece"  on the right of the bracket in photo 2.  The third small piece picks up the bottom bolt on the evaporator and also attaches to the bracket in photo 2.  The firewall insulation did not have to be disturbed.

 

 

Am working on fabbing a metal housing for potentially two 1 3/8 x 3 3/4 rectangular vents in place of the one behind the radio grill.  They can fit pretty centered under the current dash controls and the lighter.  Metalwork painted gloss black with aluminum trim will look better than plastic and will get more air moving. Alternatively thinking about hinging the radio grill and "opening it" for air, or dare get a donor grill and double the opening width of the slots.  Have to save some space for a factory switch pod ....

 

 

 

 

Edited July 29, 2017 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

On July 29, 2017 at 6:48 PM, KAD36 said:

m working on fabbing a metal housing for potentially two 1 3/8 x 3 3/4 rectangular vents in place of the one behind the radio grill.  They can fit pretty centered under the current dash controls and the lighter.  Metalwork painted gloss black with aluminum trim will look better than plastic and will get more air moving. Alternatively thinking about hinging the radio grill and "opening it" for air, or dare get a donor grill and double the opening width of the slots.  Have to save some space for a factory switch pod ....

 

Have you considered using the factory ends for the '55 clear plastic shelf tubes on those under dash vents. You woud need to fab them as oval instead of square but if memory serves they are adjustable to direct the air where wanted. They may be larger than what you are currently planning to the point of being obtrusive looking but could add a somewhat "factory" look to the install. If you want to consider that, I KNOW I have a pair of them as I saw them while looking for that elusive switch pod. I can shoot them to you for fitment/consideration if you like. 

 

On July 29, 2017 at 6:48 PM, KAD36 said:

or dare get a donor grill and double the opening width of the slots.

 

I like that idea. That would be some tedious work there. How would you do that? A dremel tool maybe. 

[MrEarl]

Are you by chance making templates of these brackets and other pieces (compressor mount). 

 

 

[KAD36]

8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Are you by chance making templates of these brackets and other pieces (compressor mount). 

 

 

 

Yes - everything that was fabricated is documented.  Needs minor fine tuning.  Same as any Serial # 001.  The compressor main bracket was Mikes, once you see and understand his approach its not hard to reproduce/create if need be.  The compressor rear support bracket back to the intake manifold has a template.

 

9 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

Have you considered using the factory ends for the '55 clear plastic shelf tubes on those under dash vents. You woud need to fab them as oval instead of square but if memory serves they are adjustable to direct the air where wanted. They may be larger than what you are currently planning to the point of being obtrusive looking but could add a somewhat "factory" look to the install. If you want to consider that, I KNOW I have a pair of them as I saw them while looking for that elusive switch pod. I can shoot them to you for fitment/consideration if you like. 

 

 

I like that idea. That would be some tedious work there. How would you do that? A dremel tool maybe. 

 

Those vents are a great idea.  Pictures and measurements (length, width, depth) or a sample package would be great.  Email me if need be.

 

Would you happen to have a donor 55 speaker grill you'd be willing to part with for experimentation?  Agree that would be best. A dremel with a cutoff wheel although it would have to be a pretty small diameter wheel to only cut every other slot out and not nick the next one.  Or maybe every two.  Maybe nip them with small cutters and grind back with a Dremel?  Hmmm.

Edited July 31, 2017 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[MrEarl]

I'll get some pictures with dimensions to you. And pretty sure I have a 55 grille. 

[old-tank]

 

If this is what you are thinking of forget it (too cheezy for that location) 3"x7"

If removing some of the grill ribs does not work, just remove all.  Flat black paint inside and vent registers will 'disappear'.

[MrEarl]

They are a bit larger than I was thinking when I made the suggestion and yea are a bit cheesy, imo, even in their original application. 

 

But for purpose of illustration here they are, nice condition, available if anyone needs them 

 

and  dash piece, both about the same condition,  I'll send best. $30

 

[60FlatTop]

That 30 degree discharge temperature is a little disconcerting. Your evaporator could be running around 24 to 26 degrees and the condensation might freeze and block the air flow. A 38 to 40 degree discharge air would be more appropriate. With a 5 degree approach temperature that would keep you evaporator a few degrees above freezing.

 

Check you air flow and the superheat. A little fine tuning and you got it.

Bernie

[JohnD1956]

Go for the fold down speaker grill.  You can put a pair of bottle holders on the inside and then place your brews right in front of the AC vents.  That will keep em cold while traveling! ?

[KAD36]

3 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

That 30 degree discharge temperature is a little disconcerting. Your evaporator could be running around 24 to 26 degrees and the condensation might freeze and block the air flow. A 38 to 40 degree discharge air would be more appropriate

 

Check you air flow and the superheat. A little fine tuning and you got it.

Bernie

 

Agreed. think that happened.  Called OAP and spoke with them as there was water blowing out the vents over the weekend and your suspicion likely correct.  It got cold then warmed up with fan on low, I turned off the compressor and ran the fan on full and got a shower.  Have been fiddling with it. It was 85 here today and with the temp control on its "detent" position and the fan on med (OAPs recommended measurement point) it was blowing 36-40 as the compressor cycled on and off (1700 rpm on fast idle cam).  The thermostat in the evap keeps a consistent 4 deg temp swing.  When I took that 30 deg it was a 70 deg day and I had the thermostat cranked full cold which is 1/4 turn past it's detent (normal) position.  The tech said if the fan is on low and its not real hot out to lower the thermostat about 1/8 turn to avoid a freeze up. When lowered 1/4 turn it was cycling in the low 40s.  Also with the condenser size and using almost all the supplied kits std hose length he recommended an even 32 ounces for the charge - spec called for 28-32 and checking the vent temps and pressure to fine tune it.  Going to let it be for awhile and observe, putzing with the HD fan clutch or not or moving condenser closer.

 

I read about superheat but didn't fully understand it the first time through, don't yet have access to the caliber of equipment unless I go to my friends shop off hours and jury rig it.  This was the reference article I used

 

http://www.achrnews.com/articles/93445-troubleshooting-with-superheat-subcooling

 

Lamar - thank you for the pics and measurements.  Will pass on the vents - they are a little too long for what I'm envisioning albeit it was a good idea.  Will pm on the grill.

[KAD36]

1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:

Go for the fold down speaker grill.  You can put a pair of bottle holders on the inside and then place your brews right in front of the AC vents.  That will keep em cold while traveling! ?

 

Visions of Denver.  Built in tailgate-ability

 

Maybe a piano hinge and a magnetic catch.  Or a slide to the right:  http://www.55buick.com/Carputer/carputer.htm

Edited August 1, 2017 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

We had an under dash unit in our '61 BelAir. The summer we went to Houston, after the Astro Dome opened, the evaporator would freeze up.  When it started to thaw out, the fan would propel water drops all the way to the back seat, where "the rain" ended up.  With careful aim on the vents' angle, fan speed modulation, "cold rain drops" landed on the unsuspecting rear seat passengers . . . as my cousin and I giggled in the front seat.  Fun ended too soon!

 

NTX5467

[60FlatTop]

As the ice forms it blocks air flow across the coil and increases the air velocity in the open areas. That is what causes the droplets on the wetted coil to blow out the vent.

 

Superheat is gained in the last few passes of the evaporator. Up to that point there will be a combination of gas and liquid in the coil passages. When gas and liquid exist together there is a pressure/temperature relationship measured on your low pressure gauge. Superheat is a way of confirming that you used up all the liquid refrigerant and are adding just a bit of sensible heat. Doing that assures efficiency and avoids liquid refrigerant from entering the compressor and possibly causing damage.

 

Binghamton, New York? Better hurry, I live near Rochester and I think we used up the three days of annual air conditioning weather. I saw manual window cranks on your door, something stuck?

 

Bernie

[MrEarl]

13 hours ago, KAD36 said:

Lamar - thank you for the pics and measurements.  Will pass on the vents - they are a little too long for what I'm envisioning albeit it was a good idea.  Will pm on the grill.

 

no problem if you don't need any of it, was in the closet so didn't even have to go out to the barn.

[KAD36]

2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

. I saw manual window cranks on your door, something stuck?

 

Bernie

 

Good eye.  I just reinstalled both doors

 

 

[KAD36]

Finished up this project a few weeks ago and thought would get caught up on posting final progress.  JD had a good idea about either designing a set of vents or moving the existing vents right up flush to the edge of the grill instead of at the base of the dash, so some careful measuring, fabrication of some metal bracketry and side panels to match the curvature of the dash friction fits the vent assembly in the proper position until the speaker grill can be mounted into the dash.  The two lower grill screws to the grill hold everything in place firmly.  No welding, riveting or other mangling of the factory grill needed.  The alignment and sealing of the vents to the grill works out to force all the air through the slots at about a 45 degree angle upward.  That angle moves cold air right up to the roof center of the car to circulate and cool things vs blowing air at the bottom of the seat. These vents preserve the full diameter of the hose and airflow, rather than compressing the hose into a oval to fit a narrow rectangular underdash center vent.

 

 

 

:

 

Vent mods not noticable when in the car

 

Alternatively, using a rusty donor grill to chop up and experiment on opening the vents up:

 

 

This one really moves alot of air up to the roof and it can be felt all the way into the back seat. This would also be a good base if fabricating vents from scratch similar to how the 56 dash vents work and are adjustable.  Kinda wondering about the looks though.  Lamar - a dremel was too big to open up the slots and messed up the adjacent slots.  Easiest was a set of wire cutters to cut out the metal piece, and used the dremel with a cutoff wheel to clean up the edges.
 

The two corner pods under the dash are positioned and adjustable to get some cool air up to your face.  Those chrome vents tucked inconspicuously into the corners, center switch/thermostat assembly (still hunting for a factory one), and about 5x6 inches of evaporator are all that give the system away.

 

 

 

Last job was fabricating a plate and installing the mounting cage for the stereo, which used to be in a box tucked under the factory radio.  Will cover up the metal with some felt fabric similar to the glove box.  Then wire it up and then finish an interior panel as there is still ample room under the radio for storage.

 

 

 

New Daytona carpet, floor insulation and door sills, and road report on changing L78 bias ply to 225 Diamondbacks, next installment.

 

 

Edited September 16, 2017 by KAD36 (see edit history)

[Fr. Buick]

Nice job!

[buick man]

 … Ken real nice write-up … and thought I was over the top about details … good work ,  oh and here is a link to help solve your clear coating of the aluminum compressor to keep it from chalking as aluminum will do  :

 

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Maxx-Clear.html

 

 

[PONTIAC1953]

hello ken, i'm impressed by your a/c project, much more customizing than what i'll expect out of my project, i'm installing into my 1953 pontiac chieftain custom catalina is the 1954 pontiac factory in dash a/c AND installing in the rear the 1955 buick roadmaster factory trunk a/c. for the rear a/c vents, i never liked the clear tubes going up to the headliner,so i'll be mounting vents on the package tray that were used on lincoln rear a/c, chrome plated and adjustable. 

Edited December 15, 2019 by pontiac1953 (see edit history)

[KAD36]

Thank you for checking out the thread. Happy to help with any "brainstorming" and lessons learned. So you'll have 2 evaporators - one front one rear?  

[PONTIAC1953]

23 hours ago, KAD36 said:

Thank you for checking out the thread. Happy to help with any "brainstorming" and lessons learned. So you'll have 2 evaporators - one front one rear?  

yes two evaporators.

[PONTIAC1953]

Here's the 54 Pontiac a/c evaporator mounted on the right front inner fender