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1932 Buick


BuickTom87

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So after reading some discussions about the wheel wobble.

 

My mechanic finally had the time to take my car in and do some work on it.

 

-Replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings on both sides . Replaced the wheel seals with metal ones which were very difficult to find .

- Drop the oil pan cleaned about 15 pounds of sludge . Found some metal chunks in there kinda scary no idea wheee they came from looked like wrist pins or something related .  He asked if the car ran fine while driving we agreed and said some issues with the carburetor but that’s being resolved as we speak . Waiting for it to arrive with a rebuilt heat riser . 

- Drained and Radiator flush it out . Replaced all the hoses on the car they were terrible the 2 of them were petrified they were so old.

-I had gave them my engine overhaul gasket kit from Olsons , they said the water pump gaskets were too small . Has anyone had issues with Olson before .


 

I also got some stuff from the macblair collection. I also was very fortunate to find a set of nos kingpins for the 90 series only thing is missing the bushings 


 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Soo over the fall and winter been getting together some parts ready for my 32.

 

- rebuilt fuel pump

- acquired fuel pump push rod

- freshly rebuilt and restored carburetor


 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After installing the new rebuilt carburetor, all I can say is this car is a joy to drive now, before it used to be a chore to drive it. Now I just need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket , is there a trick to doing that??

 

I also gotta put back the stock fuel pump and push rod. The car doesn’t have one, for some reason they bypassed it after speaking with the owner before he said when he bought it never had it either 

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There are quite a few threads on how to replace the exhaust manifold gasket. I would read up on how to do it without causing the manifold to crack. My 31 had the correct curved washers but I had to source one that was missing. I used a paste of oil and graphite to coat the manifold and gasket and did not overly tighten the attaching bolts. The idea is you want that large piece of unobtanium cast iron to move when it expands and contracts rather than break. I had to go back and gently snug up a few times but so far so good.

 

Again lots of good threads on this I would search for them before doing anything.

 

Dave 

Edited by Dave39MD (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Attachment.jpeg.756405b725cb15e1e42fc9ea248cf9c7.jpegAttachment.jpeg.756405b725cb15e1e42fc9ea248cf9c7.jpegAttachment.jpeg.0b985d148aa3ace8b52d40cd75fe875f.jpegAttachment.jpeg.756405b725cb15e1e42fc9ea248cf9c7.jpegAttachment.jpeg.756405b725cb15e1e42fc9ea248cf9c7.jpegSoo spring is coming the car will be running brand new , the carburetor was completely overhauled . The heat riser was completely we done ,

 

I’m just waiting to get the the exhaust manifold back from the welder . Since it has a few cracks in it but he was confident it’ll be brand new . After that it’ll be heat coated with silver ceramic coating .  All new hardware for mounting . Waiting for those to take pictures of 

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Edited by BuickTom87
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Yeah I’m definitely missing that , I guess I’ll have to look at my spares , I have 2 other heat riser spares that I bought for parts . If not the car ran fine without it . Maybe I’ll just figure what else to put there for the time being . Since those hex screws are prob impossible to find 

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A standard 10 -32 screw will work in place of the original hex screw.  There is some kind of material in the linkage that keeps the screw from backing out.  If you look closely at the link you will see what I mean.  

 

Bob Engle

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I looked at my spare I was lucky enough to find it. I’ll put it on once, I receive  the new riser in the mail. Just soaking the screw in degreaser. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Soon hoping to have it running soon. I’m not to happy with my powdercoater , I told him to use the grey silver for the manifold, exhaust valve and heat riser pipe.  He went and used the black grey saying it’s better quality and has a higher heat tolerance level .

 

- new exhaust manifold gasket 

- new exhaust manifold

- rebuilt heat riser 

-new exhaust valve 

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Posted (edited)

Yeah I have one , just didn’t put it on yet . I was too tired last night . It was a hassle to put it all back together . It’s always easier to take apart to put back together is always harder. I looked at it and go not today. I’ll tackle that sometime this weekend . 

Edited by BuickTom87 (see edit history)
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After 2 days of adjusting and everything between working job where I’m gone 18 hours a day .

 

I figured out the electric fuel pump is dumping way too much fuel . The car when i bought it never had a facrtory pump . Which always seemed to be a problem but more so now more then ever .

 

So the car will be towed to my mechanic to put on the new fuel pump and push rod that, I was lucky to find on here for sale . So that being said I’ll be using the electric fuel pump as a secondary ( the electric fuel pump looks to be a Carter p4259. I’ll be adding a aeromotive low pressure 1-3 carburetor regulator as well as a Russell gauge . Ill have them tuck everything underneath the car so it can’t be seen.

 

anything else I should look into or consider ?

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3 hours ago, BuickTom87 said:

anything else I should look into or consider ?

Tom,

If you go with the original fuel pump, it also has a vacuum pump on the bottom (small hole on bottom of pic).

 

Do you plan to replumb the wiper vacuum lines to connect to the pump, or would you leave the pump openings as-is?

I seem to recall that if the vacuum pump remains disconnected, one of the openings needs to breathe - maybe it was the inlet toward the front of the engine that could be plugged, and the exhaust side toward the firewall might be the side to keep open?

 

Replumbing looks good when done, but its quite a pain to thread the fittings into the vacuum pump.

 

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That I’ll look into once the car is running properly. The car ran beautifully for one day, til the exhaust manifold cracked and gasket crapped  out .  Hoping to have this car running soon , have to tow it Monday to the local classic car mechanic Monday  
 

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On 4/5/2024 at 11:04 AM, BuickTom87 said:

Soon hoping to have it running soon. I’m not to happy with my powdercoater , I told him to use the grey silver for the manifold, exhaust valve and heat riser pipe.  He went and used the black grey saying it’s better quality and has a higher heat tolerance level .

 

- new exhaust manifold gasket 

- new exhaust manifold

- rebuilt heat riser 

-new exhaust valve 

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Your powdercoater made the right call. That looks great and higher heat means it'll last longer. Any shinier or brighter and it wouldn't have looked like cast iron.

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On 4/5/2024 at 10:04 AM, BuickTom87 said:

Soon hoping to have it running soon. I’m not to happy with my powdercoater , I told him to use the grey silver for the manifold, exhaust valve and heat riser pipe.  He went and used the black grey saying it’s better quality and has a higher heat tolerance level .

 

- new exhaust manifold gasket 

- new exhaust manifold

- rebuilt heat riser 

-new exhaust valve 

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What heat riser to exhaust valve tube set did you use?  I’m not used to seeing the outer tube having as large of a diameter as yours.  Is it still functional with an inner tube as well so that exhaust gas can flow roundtrip to heat the inlet air?

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24 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said:

That I’ll look into once the car is running properly. The car ran beautifully for one day, til the exhaust manifold cracked and gasket crapped  out .  Hoping to have this car running soon , have to tow it Monday to the local classic car mechanic Monday  
 

Did your exhaust manifold crack after the welder repaired it?

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I sent out the heat riser out to get restored . Im not entirely sure but the whole thing was overhauled . The outer tube is the  original

one to my knowledge 

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1 minute ago, kar3516 said:

Did your exhaust manifold crack after the welder repaired it?

He fixed 3 out of 4 of them . Called me saying he fixed it and went to fix the 4th one crack but it was too big and it just disintegrated. I was lucky to buy one off Mac Blair estate .  

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23 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Your powdercoater made the right call. That looks great and higher heat means it'll last longer. Any shinier or brighter and it wouldn't have looked like cast iron.

I know , I just gotta get used to it . It’s been growing on me, following the steps you did with the Lincoln’ with the electric fuel pump, I think you Also told me to run a low pressure aeromotive carb regulator . 

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12 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said:

He fixed 3 out of 4 of them . Called me saying he fixed it and went to fix the 4th one crack but it was too big and it just disintegrated. I was lucky to buy one off Mac Blair estate .  


 

Welding exhaust manifolds………is never a good idea. Ever. Your lucky you found one. Just removing the manifold is an invitation to if failing when being reinstalled. I recommend buying another spare if possible. Use copper gaskets, not the modern stuff. Go gentle on tightening it up. Be sure your electric pump is NOT connected to the ignition system, or you will burn out the Hershey switch and under volt the coil.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Yeah, that’s the one thing I have to fix also . The previous owner has it hooked up to the ignition switch.  Yeah I’m gonna look for spares just to have on hand . Since once they are gone , I’ll never be able to find others .

 

 

I always use copper gaskets , usually get them from Olsons 

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2 hours ago, BuickTom87 said:

He fixed 3 out of 4 of them . Called me saying he fixed it and went to fix the 4th one crack but it was too big and it just disintegrated. I was lucky to buy one off Mac Blair estate .  

If it makes you feel any better the engine I recently acquired from Colorado has a big ugly weld repair on the exhaust manifold.  If it has integrity (as it was from a running engine), we will grind the weld down and use it.  I won’t be trying to re-weld it.

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Yeah, my manifold was strong, not sure exactly what happened might try to send it out to someone who does  all the time just to have as a spare . I’m slowly collecting spare parts . I plan on keeping this car for a while, if I ever decide to sell it the next owner will be very lucky . 

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After reading other members issues , it seemed like the issue I’m having is common . 
The carburetor top cover was shooting fuel out of the small hole like a faucet . I hope by putting the factory fuel pump and everything . Will solve this issue, also thank you @edinmass . I’ll have the electric fuel pump wired differently because having it run the second the ignition on is not smart idea . Can’t believe they wired this way and the previous owner before said he had a classic car expert install it . 
 

So I’m keeping my fingers crossed, kinda frustrated with the whole thing .

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I have been playing with a 32 96C lately. Fun car……

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Posted (edited)

That’s beautiful, I also peek  the trim rings ! I also notice the driving lights that turn ! That’s a beautiful one .  Once the car is mechanically sound and also the wheel wobble is gone . I’ll be looking to add some accessories . 

Edited by BuickTom87 (see edit history)
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I made the beauty rings for the 18 inch drop center wheels about 15 years ago…….they fit multiple makes. Made 400 of them and sold them out in les than a year. They are all long gone. I did the project for my 1932 Pierce Series 54 Coupe.

 

 

 

 

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Yeah , I know speaking with you on the phone you gave me the list, I’m always checking eBay and other sites for them . Maybe one day lll get lucky 

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