BobinVirginia Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 1 hour ago, edinmass said: I have been playing with a 32 96C lately. Fun car…… Sweet! Buick made some cool stuff! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 After getting the car back , it’s running worse now then before , The mechanic adjusted things .. I have new issues that, I didn’t have before car is spitting exhaust out. I wish there were better places where I can take these cars on Long Island Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 Ugh -- sorry to hear that. Did the 'mechanic' tell you specifically what adjustments he made? 24 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said: ...car is spitting exhaust out. Is it 'sputtering' at the tailpipe, or actually spitting something out? My '38 will sometimes spit some black liquid out of the tailpipe when started cold after sitting overnight. After checking things, I concluded that it's condensation from within the muffler picking-up carbon from inside the muffler and exhaust pipe. Do you have a dwell meter, timing light or vacuum gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Its idles horribly , pretty much will stall out after a min of running . Spits fumes out of the exhaust pipe where it bolts onto the heat valve, as well the outside heat riser pipe . I tighten everything and still does it. I’m gonna try really have to look into a place nearby that has experience in these cars and not just mustangs and Chevells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 14 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said: Its idles horribly , pretty much will stall out after a min of running . Spits fumes out of the exhaust pipe where it bolts onto the heat valve, as well the outside heat riser pipe . I tighten everything and still does it. I’m gonna try really have to look into a place nearby that has experience in these cars and not just mustangs and Chevells Vacuum leaks? I wonder if the intake manifold is true and the gasket is seated correctly? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 I have been fighting an idle problem myself on my 33.58. A critical point on these carbs is fuel level. the idle jets have a bowl shaped top. The fuel level in the float bowl must be at a level that has the fuel level in the idle jet bowl. Float too high and the idle jet will flood,causing leakage out the air intake. Fuel level too low, no gas in jet bowl, and the intake air not pick up the fuel properly. Adjusting the float level will correct these problems. The bowl on the idle jet is only about 1/32" deep. One other issue is needle valve not eating properly. This will allow excess fuel into the idle system. Needle valve setting can be observed with the top cover off of the fuel bowl. For your leakage issue, You can instal a vacuum gauge on the manifold vacuum line to the Wizzard control to observe any vacuum leaks. Bob Engle 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Yeah the car is missing the wizard control and mechanical fuel pump. Didn’t have a chance to put it on the shop ran out of time . I’ll order the vaccuum gauge and see if I have any leaks . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32buick67 Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Tom, I found a pic, just as positive confirmation that we were both talking about the same screw - also note the horizontal lock screw to prevent the idle screw from backing out. A good and easy test to find vacuum leaks around the carb, heat riser, brass shafts, manifolds, gasket areas, etc. is to use a propane torch - turn on the torch (of course don't light it) and direct the propane around the vulnerable areas to see if the idle increases. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Yes , I was missing the lock screw. I got home worked on it but need to turn the idle up it’s a little too low. So, I’ll look more into it this weekend . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8014haar Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 On 4/6/2024 at 5:53 PM, BuickTom87 said: That I’ll look into once the car is running properly. The car ran beautifully for one day, til the exhaust manifold cracked and gasket crapped out . Hoping to have this car running soon , have to tow it Monday to the local classic car mechanic Monday That’s what that air duct that Bob mentioned, on the side of the engine was for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Thank you everyone for the help, got it running great now especially for an original motor with 97k miles on it . What a hassle to adjust everything with side mounts in the way. Even in 80 degree weather car runs at 150degrees temp and 35 psi for oil pressure . next up going to have it detailed and washed professionally. No need for anything crazy.. Still waiting for the other shop by me to put the original fuel pump and the electric pump as a secondary. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 My next question is - the throttle advance on the steering wheel when I go to move it nothing seems to happen . Anyone have photos or information where I can see if I’m missing linkage or the hookup for that - Same as the spark advance pull out on the dash when I pull it out nothing seems to happen. I’ve been trying to look for photos and YouTube videos on these cars but never can find a photos of an engine bay etc On my 29 Buick those 2 things are very beneficial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Be sure to install the electric pump correctly. Do NOT hook it up to the ignition switch or circuit. Also, use a low pressure Carter pump that is 6 volts, and install a GOOD pressure regulator to bring it down to 1 1/2 psi. I usually install a gauge on the regulator so I can adjust it on the side of the road with confidence. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 That’s my plan the shop I originally brought it to told me it was no big deal for it to be hooked up to the ignition. At which point I immediately said forget it I’ll do that at a later time. You really don’t specialize in pre-war cars, mostly just 50s and 60s muscle cars. I’m going to bring it to another shop who told me that was a terrible idea having it hooked up to the ignition they’re gonna have it hooked up to a different power source to switch that’s to have it installed I plan on using fuel pressure gauge to the regular so I can dial in the pressure. As of now, the car runs decently, I’m probably going to order Waldron exhaust for it since they’re exhaust engine pipe has a small crack in it the flanges loose. So it doesn’t seal properly, which has an exhaust leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 The spark control is actually a spark retard. Pull the knob out and the distributor rotates retarding the spark. This can be seen with a timing light. I'll look for photos on the steering column throttle advance. I Have lots of 50 series pics, but I will need to search my files for 90 series engine bay photos. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 The lever on the steering column turns a tube that runs down to the bottom of the steering gearbox. There,is a lever arm attached at the bottom of the steering gear box. The attached photo shows the rod that is attached at the bottom of the steering gear box and the upper end attaches to the linkage on the carb throttle body. The lever at the steering gearbox is die cast and many are broken. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Yes I’m definitely missing those parts unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 6 hours ago, Robert Engle said: The lever on the steering column turns a tube that runs down to the bottom of the steering gearbox. There,is a lever arm attached at the bottom of the steering gear box. The attached photo shows the rod that is attached at the bottom of the steering gear box and the upper end attaches to the linkage on the carb throttle body. The lever at the steering gearbox is die cast and many are broken. Bob Engle After seeing this picture I figured out since I had the car the throttle lever was backwards , I flipped it around now it works correctly , still missing the one bar that goes from the lever to the steering box I can’t thank everyone enough . Figuring this out isn’t easy especially with no pictures . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 7 hours ago, BuickTom87 said: As of now, the car runs decently, I’m probably going to order Waldron exhaust for it since they’re exhaust engine pipe has a small crack in it the flanges loose. So it doesn’t seal properly, which has an exhaust leak. Is it beyond repair? Could you just have the flange re-welded to the pipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Most likely yes , the welding on the underneath of the muffler looks like Mr magoo welded it . So I was considering just replacing the whole setup . My exhaust guy said he could fix it all but it would probably be cheaper to replace the whole thing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted April 17 Share Posted April 17 If you have the piece attached to the tube at the bottom of the gearbox, The rod to the throttle body is a simple piece to fabricate. I think I have a spare block that threads onto the rod and has a through hole to slip onto the link at the throttle body shaft. I can give you specs on the rod. Threads on one end and a 90 degree bend on the other end. You would need to determine the length which isn't overly critical as the block threads onto the rod. Let me know if you want to proceed. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 I’ll have to check for that in the morning to see if I’m missing it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted April 17 Author Share Posted April 17 Few pics from this mornings ride down to the beach 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted Thursday at 10:51 PM Author Share Posted Thursday at 10:51 PM So next week, plan on changing the trans and rear end fluid . Plan on using Stalube 140wt gl-4. My next question is what does everyone use for steering box oil. I want to change that as well the manual says to use gear oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted Thursday at 10:58 PM Share Posted Thursday at 10:58 PM 5 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said: So next week, plan on changing the trans and rear end fluid . Plan on using Stalube 140wt gl-4. My next question is what does everyone use for steering box oil. I want to change that as well the manual says to use gear oil. Ed will give some good advice. He’s Mr. steering box. My advice is that it has enough thickness to not leak out of the box, but needs to be liquid enough that it continually lubricates the gear. I’ve seen boxes where they used practically grease, which just got thrown to the side. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raydurr Posted Friday at 12:18 AM Share Posted Friday at 12:18 AM I use the 600WT or STP when in a pinch. They are both equally messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted Friday at 01:18 AM Share Posted Friday at 01:18 AM Why not use what it calls for? OO liquid grease? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted Friday at 11:13 AM Author Share Posted Friday at 11:13 AM 9 hours ago, edinmass said: Why not use what it calls for? OO liquid grease? Ok that’s what I’ll be using then, I think tractor supply sells it . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted Friday at 11:31 AM Share Posted Friday at 11:31 AM 17 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said: ...I think tractor supply sells it . I'm using it in my '38 Century. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuickTom87 Posted Friday at 12:50 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 12:50 PM Thanks , just ordered a couple bottles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted Friday at 01:53 PM Share Posted Friday at 01:53 PM I like to use cornhead grease in the steering box. it has a lot less tendancy for leakage. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted Friday at 04:31 PM Share Posted Friday at 04:31 PM 2 hours ago, Robert Engle said: I like to use cornhead grease in the steering box. it has a lot less tendancy for leakage. Bob Engle It won’t lubricate and will score the surfaces of the worm among other things. It’s not the stuff to use in a steering box. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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