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Restoration/Build of a Hubley 1930 Packard Dual Cowl Phaeton


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I don't build a lot of pre-War stuff...I don't build a lot of vehicles that aren't race cars. But I'm tackling a project that will be quite challenging and it actually fits into the theme of the board so I'll share my progress. It will not be quick. 

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I was given this Hubley 1930 Packard kit several years ago. The box is disintegrating before my eyes, and it's entirely possible some of the parts I'm missing were in the box when I received it but have since fallen out and gotten lost. I believe this kit was made around 1961 but there is no copyright info on the box, paperwork or kit itself. 

 

Luckily the instructions are present, as well as an order form to order replacement parts. If only! 

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I definitely need the instructions because I've never built a kit with working steering before, and each model kit manufacturer does their kits a little differently. This is my first Hubley kit. I've built more than 400 plastic models and more than 500 diecast rebuilds (all NASCAR) but this is something in between. It's diecast but it's also a full kit. 

 

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Someone had started the kit a long time ago. One of the unusual things about the Hubley kit is that it screws together, so it can be taken apart and refitted repeatedly. That is surely going to help me. It was partially painted a metallic red, but the paint job is fairly poor- it appears to be done with a brush, it's chipped in several places and oddly not all of the car was painted. 

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Like so.  I will be removing the paint. Since I am going to try and save the interior panels, which will be a challenge, it will make more work to strip the paint off the body but in the end I think it will be worth it. I do not know yet what color I will make the finished car. I'm not close to that stage yet. 

 

The underside is nicely detailed but the screws do take away somewhat of the realism. Since I don't display my cars upside down, I don't really care about the undersides of builds. I probably will retain the original red there as a nod to this specific kit's life history.

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You can also see the three pour tabs on the running board that I will need to file off, top center of photo.

 

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Some of the parts that are ahead of me. All of the parts will need to be cleaned, and some of the metal parts will require some work to make them usable. The kit is supposed to have operable steering from turning the steering wheel but I'm not sure if I have all those parts yet, I think I am missing a tube. I can, however, fabricate my own to replace it so I'm not too worried about that. The tires all have whitewall stickers, which have not aged well. I'm hoping they come off when I get the tires wet to wash them, as they are all quite dirty.

 

The windows are going to be a problem. 

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The ones included in the kit are shot...but at least I can use them as patterns to make new ones. The windshield frame is broken in the middle and on both sides. That will be a challenge to fix. The second cowl's windshield frame is missing entirely which is a BIG problem. It's not particularly complex but would be the most complex shape I've scratchbuilt, if I go that route. I'm going to keep my eyes out for a parts kit for a bit, hopefully finding that part. I'm really glad the decals have survived unused and they look good to go. 

 

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There are supposed to be two each of these, the side mirror and the lights atop the fenders. However, I only have one of each. If I cannot find a parts kit, I will have to make resin copies of these parts and simulate the chrome plating on them. It's not easy but it can be done...I'd rather not have to. Even worse for me...none of the four door handles are there. If I had one I could make more, but I don't have that. I don't know yet how I'm going to solve that problem. 

 

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Some of the parts are still on the trees. and although they will need a cleaning they are in good shape. With how detailed and complex the kit construction is, I am surprised the headlights- the two round parts shown center, if not obvious, are so low tech. 

 

And that's as far as I got in day one of the project, taking photos. The next step will be unscrewing the body so I can begin paint removal and see if it will be possible to save the interior trim, which was provided as a decal. I will also need to wash the parts as they are a little dirty. 

Although these kits are from the early days of modeling, there isn't a lot of demand for them, and you can still find them fairly cheap...it would probably have been better to start with a fresh kit, which you can still find for around $40. The slightly odd scale plays a role too, as this kit is 1/22 scale. The standard in the hobby is 1/25 or 1/25, which are nearly but not-quite interchangeable. (plastic kits from the same time frame that were never reissued, if unbuilt, go for $200 or more, as there is a lot more demand. I've spent $225 on one myself, that was only ever issued once in 1960, but I digress.) I may get one of them to build while searching out parts for this one. 

 

 

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Looks like a fun project Billy. I built a ton of models, mostly the plastic ones, revell was my favorite followed by mpc (I think, Its been a while, lol). The Hubleys were expensive when new compared to their plastic counterparts. For that reason they were relegated to Christmas or Birthday presents. I have a Duesenburg dual cowl, and quite a few Model A's in different configurations. I am pretty sure I do not have the packard you are working on. They were a bit challenging as you have to remove the flash from the castings etc. I think they even included a file and screwdriver. All of my kits are stored in a space in the basement I cannot access easily or I would have had them dug out by now. About this time every year I tell myself that I am going to get them out and start restorations, just havent got to it yet!!

Hubley was from Lancaster PA, which is a short drive up the road from me, but I have never seen exactly where they were, in spite of being in that town about once a week for the last 30 years.

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This is a great thread as I just purchased on eBay a ‘23 Ford T huckster truck plastic kit in 1/25th scale by AMT. When I was a young teenager I restored a ‘23 Martin Parry bodied canvas side T that my dad bought to advertise the family business. I will be modifying this kit to make it more like what our truck was like and will be making up side curtains with the same artwork the original truck had. It will serve duty on my G scale railroad and sit outside of the Brito’s Meats and Provisions building (our family USDA slaughterhouse) that will be on the layout. 
      When I found the kit on eBay one of my initial thoughts was to do a build thread here because there have been other excellent model threads plus I am recreating a model of an actual antique vehicle. I need to pickup some building supplies for the kit but will be starting on it soon. I might actually build the body out of wood rather than use the supplied plastic body. Not sure yet. 

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Pretty neat. ....waiting for someone to comment on the whitewalls.😁

I remember making a metal Model A depot hack as a kid but this would have been more grand.

If you look online for modelling acrylic sheet you could find material for the windshields but cutting without making burrs or cracks is the challenge. I'm too far away from model making to advise but maybe someone here can. Cheers!

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I have built all of the Hubley/Gabriel models over the years and still have a couple left in my stash. The Packard was one of my favorites.  Mine was built like the box art except I painted the wheel spokes black and later discarded the whitewall stickers, a change that greatly improved the looks of the model. I'll be interested to see how your model comes out. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Billy, will be looking forward to following your build.

 

I have had great success joining broken model kit parts (both plastic and metal) by using a dowel pin made from thin brass rod. K&S make thin assortments that can be fixed with superglue.
 

Drill the hole size you need with a pin vice and a number drill. You could even use a pin or needle stem cut to length but brass can be bent easily if you need to tweak it slightly.

 

They also make brass angle and channel and other shapes that may be useful as do Evergreen who make styrene plastic sheet (including clear) plus useful shapes. 
 

We sold both these scratch building materials in our hobby shop and they were very popular with model railway builders and plastic kit builders.

 

Good luck with your build.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

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