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Power Brake Boosters


cquisuila

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Hello

My brake pedal is hard

so i think to change my power booster

 

it is cardon 5471324 as riviera 1965 (i have a riviera 1966) but it is difficult available in stock

 

so DO it exist an alternative as this booster please ?

 

image.png.ccce4aba3c6b45f5ce8748a8b2964d84.png

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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To ALL.

 

I have used Harmons Classic Brakes as recently as 2 weeks ago.

 

Pricing is always competitive & the turn-a-round time is very reasonable. Being closer to myself in the N.E. is an advantage as far as shipping goes.

 

Just my thoughts for the subject at hand.

 

Tom T.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/24/2022 at 2:41 PM, jframe said:

I tried the Card one booster for my 65, and the bolt pattern was wrong. I suggest Booster Dewey as a reduild in Oregon; he fixed me up right

Booster Dewey is no longer in business. I verified this last October when I was visiting Portland Oregon.

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Someone posted the following on the 68-69 Riviera Facebook group a few days ago:

"I purchased a Cardone remanufactured Power Brake booster (Delco) for my 69 Riv and it failed within a month. It's a piece of rubbish and not worth replacing under warranty. I've also learned that Brakebest and Wearever are 'house brands' who sell parts sourced from Cardone. Does anyone know where I can purchase a reliable new or remanufactured Power Brake Booster not made by Cardone?"

Edited by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, NC1968Riviera said:

Booster Dewey is no longer in business. I verified this last October when I was visiting Portland Oregon.

That is sad. 😢 I‘m happy Mine was done at Dewey two years ago.

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8 hours ago, NC1968Riviera said:

Booster Dewey is no longer in business. I verified this last October when I was visiting Portland Oregon.

Their Facebook page says they're still open; I think they just moved or were bought out.  With that being said, I use Harmon's; they have good communication and they seem to do a good job.

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You have a 1966 Riviera, correct?  If so, it had a single cylinder master cylinder from the factory.  Has it already been converted to a dual-cylinder master, or are you planning to do that together with the booster replacement?  If you are keeping the factory drum brakes, the dual-circuit master cylinder from a 1967 four-wheel drum application will work.  You don't want a master cylinder from a disk/drum application, as the drum brakes require the master cylinder have a residual pressure check valve that isn't used on disk brakes.

 

You can order the kit to rebuild your booster here: https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/  and they will ship the kit internationally.

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yes it is a car 1966

i have single cylinder master

 

and yes, in the future , i will change perhaps with this double brake system (master cylinder and new servo brake)

Unfortunatly harmonclassicbrakes.com doesn"t delivery the booster  to France  and only the kit to rebuild

> However, Performanceonline ships internationally.

 

---> i just ordered a kit to rebuild my single master cylinder on Rockauto.com because it had an output leak to the servo brake

and that's probably what was causing the lack of power in my brakes ! ;)

 

i will verify when i will rebuild the master cylinder

 

---> when i dismantled the brakes i sawn that the servo brake moves well when i press the brake pedal

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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Hopefully when you put the system back together you will find that the booster is working.  If you have not replaced your rubber brake hoses, do that now while the hydraulic system is open.  A collapsed rear hose on my '67 gave the impression that the booster was faulty.  Replacing the hose restored the power brake boost function on my car.

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57 minutes ago, EmTee said:

Hopefully when you put the system back together you will find that the booster is working.  If you have not replaced your rubber brake hoses, do that now while the hydraulic system is open.  A collapsed rear hose on my '67 gave the impression that the booster was faulty.  Replacing the hose restored the power brake boost function on my car.

yes i remplaced the 3 hoses (2 front and 1 in rear)

and the brake fluid comes to rear in the cylinder

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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so i rebuild the master cylinder and it no longer leaks OK

 

but now the brake pedal is no longer hard AND it is pumping effect with air noise and i haven't braking

i notice that the rubber dust boot rear the power booster decay !

do you think that it is very important and NOT only for dust ?

 

i know that i have opened the brake system with rebuild the master cylinder and perhaps it needs a brake purge

the fluid reservoir is full

 

i am tired!

 

help please !;)

 

image.png.eb839293acd740783f90c01c0e2dd8ac.png

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Buddy there's air trapped in the master cylinder. Look on you tube how to set up a pipe to bleed it internally. 

You also opened up the sealed system removing the master. You might get pedal back bleeding at drivers front wheel but bleed the hole system and then report back if you still don't have a pedal. 

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at this moment the brake pedal is normal

 

in position D it is efficient

but in REVERSE IT DOES NOT BRAKE

i'm going crazy🤪

I was told about a depression pipe....

 

i finally ordered a new master cylinder

and i will see

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The 'servo action' isn't as effective in reverse.

 

Servo action brakes definition

Brakes so constructed as to have one end of the primary shoe bearing against the end of the secondary shoe. When the brakes are applied, the primary shoe attempts to move in the direction of the rotating drum and in so doing applies force to the secondary shoe. This action, called "servo action," makes less brake pedal pressure necessary and is widely used in brake construction.

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I JUST received my new cylinder master and i sawn the OUT to connect the brake pipe

> This new part is opened at the 2 sides (end and out) and the metal is delivered separately

(on mine there isn't this screw)

Please what is the end screw for ? Bleed ? (see picture) ;)

 

When i will bleed,  i think to screw this metal screw ; ok ?

image.png.d66eb82c047bb783da579c177c6a61ed.png

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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I think it it simply a matter of stocking one part that covers multiple years, rather than having to maintain a '63-only part.  If the bore size matches the original it should work fine.  Just plug the unused port.

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13 hours ago, OldGerman said:

IMHO You should leave working with hydraulic brake to a experienced car mechanic or ask someone to assist. 

i didn't know a port on master cylinder for the brake light

it is often on the brake pedal with a switch

 

because i know a lot of of brake system ;)

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I believe Buick switched to a mechanical switch at the pedal linkage for 1964.  Up to that point, Buick used some form of hydraulic pressure switch.  If you search the post-war forum I think there was a discussion about a Harley-Davidson switch that seems to work pretty well.  If I recall, that came up in response to someone who had the opposite issue; brake lights didn't come on under light braking.

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On 1/23/2023 at 9:54 AM, cquisuila said:


 

i didn't know a port on master cylinder for the brake light

it is often on the brake pedal with a switch

 

because i know a lot of of brake system ;)

Ok, then I‘m relieved. 👍

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