Wood finish

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

I’m working on a truck bed. I’m using white oak for the exposed inside bottom,front, and sides. I’m going to add a light stain color to bring out the grain. If it was going to be in a conditioned space all the time, I know what I’d use for a clear coat. But since this is a truck and could be exposed to the elements, I don’t know what is the best clear finish to use. I was thinking on spraying a auto clear like the rest of the body. I’d like to know your thoughts.  Thanks Mike 

[Guest]

 I sprayed Imron clear on the wood sides of a woodie once and it all came off in sheets a few years after.

 

 When I did my pickup, I used varnish. which holds up very well.

 

 One thing that you could try is using clear truck bed spray liner.

 If you apply it heavy to the floor, it will smooth out but may be milky though

 

 TRY AT YOUR  OWN RISK (for a truck that you use, not a show truck)

[SC38dls]

On my 49 Ford pickup bed I used black walnut wood and multiple coats of TUNG oil. But be sure it is real TUNG oil not the big box store junk. It protects the wood brings out the grain but also needs to be refreshed every six months or so depending on weather. 100% TUNG oil can be found at wood stores for about $25-30 a bottle. If you don’t use it all squeeze the air out of the bottle then cap it. Air will harden any left over oil. 
dave s 

[stretch cab]

I would use a marine finish as boats are used to being left outside.

[Str8-8-Dave]

16 minutes ago, stretch cab said:

I would use a marine finish as boats are used to being left outside.

Epifanes is the best of the best marine varnish and Jamestown Distributors is a good place to read about and buy the appropriate product.  I used it in restoration of my 1965 Chris Craft and it was fabulous...

 

Epifanes Clear High-Gloss Marine Varnish (jamestowndistributors.com)

[Walt G]

Marine spar varnish applied with a good quality brush( which can be cleaned properly afterwards to then reuse the next time) is best. I make this judgement from having owned a Hercules bodied 1941 Packard Eight woodie wagon for decades and it got driven in the rain ( used it everyday to go to work in the early 1970s - an 80 mile round trip ) . Live on long island which is surrounded by water, had an uncle that worked in a boat yard as well. Sometimes the "old" way using products that were used for the past century is the way to go.

[Terry Bond]

I know you want it to look pretty, and the oak will, but most of those wood bottoms were originally just painted.

Terry

[TAKerry]

I always thought that marine varnish was overrated. Until..... My wifes boss is a boater. His office has a beautiful 150yr old carved entry door. We refinish it every couple of years. The first time we did so he insisted on marine varnish. It does a good job. Still not a permanent solution as it needs re done on a regular basis but this door also faces the direct sunlight most of the day. Anything else in my opinion would be a crap shoot.

[SC38dls]

I used marine spar varnish on three wooded boats we owned. A 25’ Jafco and two Chris Crafts a 36’ and a 42’ all with a lot of bright work on them. I used TUNG oil on the truck bed because it was a driver and stuff was going to be loaded and thrown into and dragged out of the bed. The varnish will scratch easier than oil will show them and TUNG oil is water proof if multiple layers are applied and redone occasionally. It shines up nicely also. 
dave s 

[bryankazmer]

Spar varnish is more flexible than ordinary varnish, and has some oil, usually linseed oil, in it.  It also has a high amount of UV absorber.  Epiphanes is a spar varnish, but uses tung oil.  I think that's the way to go.

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Thanks for all the replies so far. This is why I like this forum. 
 

After reading your responses, I just thought about using a hardwood floor finish that I used on my kitchen floor. Just need to see if it will hold up to the temperature swings from summer to winter where I live. I’ll have to do some more research. Mike

[TAKerry]

Mike that may work, but I doubt it has any uv inhibitors in it. Should be fine for flexibility. I did an experiment and put some on a spot in my shop on the bare concrete as a sealer. It turned yellow but is still there. It all depends on what the long term use is. If you are just going to look at it, and keep it mostly out of the weather any decent wood finish should be fine. Its just wood after all. I do my share of furniture work and have thought about putting an automotive clear on 'just to see' how it reacts and behaves. One of these days I will do so. I have done a couple of guitars with auto paint and they have held up fine. One was painted with imron in the late 70's and still looks good.

[NewOldWood]

Pure Tung oil would be my last choice. The proper application of it is very time consuming, it has a relatively poor abrasion resistance and no UV protection. Better for indoor use, and not many people even use it for that anymore. What are called Tung oil finishes are more similar to interior varnishes but still a poor choice.

 

Most varnishes are Tung oil based, with the addition of resins to increase durability, and drying agents. Spar varnishes include UV filters. Like gasoline, every brand has their own specific recipe. I think I have used probably every name brand out there and while their are minor differences in the way they apply, dry, etc, the end result is pretty good with all of them. Varnishes will all add a slight amber tone to the wood. This wouldn't be a bad choice.

 

The hardwood floor finish you mentioned is going to be a urethane based finish, although probably a one part finish and likely not recommended for exterior use. Automotive clears are two part finishes and (obviously) are designed for exterior use. They generally have very good UV filtering qualities and compared to varnishes are much more durable. Read the fine print on your stain, some recommend against use under two part urethanes. Whatever you use let it dry thoroughly before spraying the clear. I have used various stains under clear before and haven't had a problem yet.

[NewOldWood]

I should add that I started using automotive clear on wood car bodies almost 15 years ago. Back then nobody was recommending it. The first ones I did are still holding up just fine.

[bryankazmer]

In general, cured polyurethane finishes are going to be more mechanically durable but harder to repair/recoat than varnishes.  I see only advantage to using a material with UV absorber.

[Pfeil]

If you really wanted to protect the wood and wanted a deep look to it. I would do what we did to surfboards just right after WW2 when they were still made of wood. The availability of surfboard resin " Coating and laminating resin" really helped preserve wood. Also, the availability of fiberglass cloth in different Oz. thickness even further adds to durability and strength. 

[bryankazmer]

that would be using epoxy, as used in kit kayaks, etc.  You might need to allow for the relatively thick coat in fitting boards to metal channels.

[gossp]

Mike,  we did a model A station wagon with automotive clear but didn’t use enough of it. At about ten years later we are gonna have to re-apply. The car is in Lafayette if you want to take a look. 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

On 12/31/2021 at 9:22 PM, gossp said:

Mike,  we did a model A station wagon with automotive clear but didn’t use enough of it. At about ten years later we are gonna have to re-apply. The car is in Lafayette if you want to take a look. 

I would like to stop by this week after work if that’s ok. Mike

[gossp]

We have put up for the winter in a friends barn but could meet you out there. My schedule is the least predictable. Do you have my father Joe Goss’ number?  @gossjh 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Sorry I don’t mike