Super Bright LEDs in 1st Gen. Riv

[Jim Cannon]

I have my instrument panel and dash apart to replace the heater core and replace a few other parts.  While it's all in pieces, I thought I would put some LED lights into the instrument panels and indicator lights.

 

I started with the menus on the Super Bright LEDs website, the comprehensive bulb list in Section 10 of the Shop Manual, plus the list of bulbs from the Nov. 2017 Australian Region Riview.

 

I'd like feedback, and maybe photos, from people who have used the Super Bright LED bulbs. Did you use Warm White (3000K), as suggested in the Aus. Riview? Or other color temperature (Natural 4000K or Cool White 6500K)?

 

Is it worth putting LEDs into the indicator lights (turn signals, hot/cold lights, oil press., high-beam, park brake light)? Or just keep them incandescent?

 

What about the lights in the heater-A/C control?

 

For the speedometer, which I think we all agree is too dim with the stock bulbs, has anyone tried the LED bulb 194-WWCOB1W? 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/194-led-bulb-cob-led-t325-miniature-wedge-base-135-lumens/6325/14246/

 

It looks more like the original bulb than the one suggested by the Aus. Riview article:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/194-led-landscape-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-95-lumens/3305/6773/

 

The "COB" style bulb also says it has more lumens and it looks more like the original bulb.  Perhaps it was not available in 2017, so was not suggested? I don't know how well they will dim.

 

Is it worth putting LEDs into the console lights, sail panel lights, etc.? Perhaps by drawing less current, they will keep the door jamb switches working better longer? They don't dim, so LEDs are a good fit.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

 

Edited March 30, 2021 by Jim Cannon (see edit history)

[Riviera63]

18 minutes ago, Jim Cannon said:

I have my instrument panel and dash apart to replace the heater core and replace a few other parts.  While it's all in pieces, I thought I would put some LED lights into the instrument panels and indicator lights.

 

I started with the menus on the Super Bright LEDs website, the comprehensive bulb list in Section 10 of the Shop Manual, plus the list of bulbs from the Nov. 2017 Australian Region Riview.

 

I'd like feedback, and maybe photos, from people who have used the Super Bright LED bulbs. Did you use Warm White (3000K), as suggested in the Aus. Riview? Or other color temperature (Natural 4000K or Cool White 6500K)?

 

Is it worth putting LEDs into the indicator lights (turn signals, hot/cold lights, oil press., high-beam, park brake light)? Or just keep them incandescent?

 

What about the lights in the heater-A/C control?

 

For the speedometer, which I think we all agree is too dim with the stock bulbs, has anyone tried the LED bulb 194-WWCOB1W? 

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/194-led-bulb-cob-led-t325-miniature-wedge-base-135-lumens/6325/14246/

 

It looks more like the original bulb than the one suggested by the Aus. Riview article:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/194-led-landscape-light-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-95-lumens/3305/6773/

 

The "COB" style bulb also says it has more lumens and it looks more like the original bulb.  Perhaps it was not available in 2017, so was not suggested? I don't know how well they will dim.

 

Is it worth putting LEDs into the console lights, sail panel lights, etc.? Perhaps by drawing less current, they will keep the door jamb switches working better longer? They don't dim, so LEDs are a good fit.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

 

 

Hi Jim,

 

I did the LED conversion last summer. I followed the recommendations of the Australian Region when ordering mine. I ordered the warm white which to me seems to be the same look as the incandescent bulbs but, much brighter. Here is what I did and some things I found out as I did the replacements. 

 

1.) LED for the trunk light. No more pulling the bulb for shows.

2.) Did not replace the back-up lights with LED as the originals have more CP.

3.) I replaced all of the courtesy lights, sail panel and console with LED. I figured this would save on lens damage from heat and battery drain when I work with the doors open.

4.) Did not replace blinkers and high beam as felt those were bright enough.

5.) Used an LED green for the cold light and the LED red for the alternator light. Left the others as is.

6.) Replaced the dash lights with the LED suggested by the Australian Region.

7.) Did not replace the A/C and heater control lights. I tried but, I had trouble getting the sockets to reseat and the bulbs I had would not stay seated in the socket and would fall out into the cavity. After fishing 2 out of the that cavity I just put the old ones back in. There is still one LED bulb rolling around in that cavity.

8.) Found the suggested bulb for the shifter was too long. Replaced with an incandescent 57 which is brighter.

9.) Left ignition switch as is. LED will fit but, lighted panels will not line up to give illumination.

10.) Found the suggested LED will not fit for the ash tray. Used an incandescent 1816 which is brighter.

11.) Did not replace the glovebox bulb as the suggested LED was too large.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Bill

[TKRIV]

Of what I remember I did a complete change out of all the suggested Super Bright LED swap as per the Australian RIVIEW.

The dash really pops at night.

The result I am very happy with and would not hesitate doing the same again

especially if doing an interior resto which would make it an easy task.

But nice dimming control is lost on the dash.

Tom Kunek

Down Under!

[Jim Cannon]

Thanks, Bill!  Good to know!  I agree, putting an LED bulb in the trunk is the way to go.

 

I'm not going to put a bulb in the ignition key light socket at all. I never used it.

 

Tom, did you run into the problem with some of the LEDs listed in the table not fitting in the opening?  Like the Glove Box and the Transmission Selector lights?

 

I found some LEDs on the SuperBrightLED site that have 3 SMDs (surface mount diodes) facing straight out at you that I think will work well for the turn signal indicators, HOT/COLD lights, AMP light, etc. I'm going to try them.

 

I am thinking of changing the High Beam indicator to Blue (like on a modern car), instead of the stock Red color. Easy to do by removing the stock red plastic lens and then using a Blue LED in that spot.

 

Thanks!

[rodneybeauchamp]

Hi Jim, sorry. I could not see you post, the dash lights are blinding! 😀😀😀😀😀

 

Seriously it is one of those projects where the results are really worthwhile.

 

Every time I drive my ‘63 at night, I am amazed how great the effect is. it always makes me smile as the difference is night and day which is what prompted the article. No doubt the general clean and polish of the lenses is beneficial but the LEDs are magic.

 

I also did the sail panels and console lights, map light and glovebox. I tried to remove the globes first before ordering and found their figment guide was possibly incorrect on one or two. I used the base configuration as the guide plus either warm white, green or red. The colours really pop!

 

well worth your while!

enjoy!

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

 

 

[telriv]

I installed some blue ones for the dash lights only & was pleased with the outcome.

[Turbinator]

Jim, I changed out all my interior lights except 2 with Cool White super brights. I like a strong lighting system for work or moving about is what U like. I’ve heard the SuperBrite warm white LED are softer.

I matched up the bulb spec from the manual to Superbrite equivalent. All the bulbs went in ez except the glove box light and the light in the HVAC controls.

I left my tail lights with Red 1157 incandescent bulbs and they shine fine. I had problems with cheap LED 1157’s canceling themselves out. I saw a demo on YoyTube why it happened but I can’t explain why it happened.

Some suggested the better LED 1157 will work, I don’t know.

The amber light bulb in the corner lights doesn’t want to change to LED. I believe fitment in the socket is the problem. Had I to do it over again I would do the change to LED.

Turbinator

[XframeFX]

On 3/31/2021 at 8:52 PM, Jim Cannon said:

Tom, did you run into the problem with some of the LEDs listed in the table not fitting in the opening?  Like the Glove Box and the Transmission Selector lights?

Jim, for the Instrument panel 194s and C9s (clock/heater control), cool white is absolutely awesome. However, without a PWM controller, the dimming function will be disabled.

For intermittent indicator bulbs, I stayed with incandescent.

For the 6 courtesy interior bulbs, I chose a COB style warm white 300 Lumen that's popular with RV'ers. Lighting is as nice as original 1143s with reduced current draw (image below). From Amazon

I converted interior lighting only except for the Trunk which received a cool white 290 lumen 1156 equivalent and is bright (bottom image). From Superbright..

Our Fuse Panel appears to have the correct polarity to use an electronic flasher for LEDs if you choose to install LEDs for intermittant lighting.

GRV Ba15d Led Bulb 2.8W 1511 COB Light Double Contact Bayonet Base AC/DC 12V -14V 25W Halogen Bulbs Replacement Bulbs Warm White Pack of 2

1156 LED Light Bulb with Stock Cover - (36) SMD LED Tower - BA15S Base - Cool White

Part Number: 1156-CW3W-G

[Jim Cannon]

Thanks, John!

 

I kind of did the same thing. My bulbs arrived today but I am not in a position to start testing them for a bit. I just got the defective heater core out of the car this evening. What a job!!!

 

I debated about Cool White but decided to get Warm White.  I was afraid the Cool White would look too modern,  be a bit harsh. I also looked at the COB style bulbs but decided not to get them.

 

I will do the LED turn signals at some point, but my focus on this project was the interior bulbs while I have the dash apart for the heater core.

 

 

[crowvet]

Did mine about a year ago. you all wont be sorry.

[TheTaxMan]

Anyone done this on a boat tail? I would assume not the same bulbs but curious of results?

[XframeFX]

On 3/30/2021 at 7:55 AM, Riviera63 said:

9.) Left ignition switch as is. LED will fit but, lighted panels will not line up to give illumination.

Bill, I can't remember what I did here. Probably left it as incandescent. However, it had me perplexed. I lined it up to what I thought it should be and did not follow up with testing. I can't see how the design would work for illuminating the ignition switch.

On 4/6/2021 at 5:41 AM, TheTaxMan said:

Anyone done this on a boat tail? I would assume not the same bulbs but curious of results?

Simply cross-reference once you have identified the type of bulbs you wish to convert. Superbright is a start but google for cross reference charts. Many bulbs have more than 1 identifier.

LEDs are polarity sensitive but 194s must have a built-in circuit as they can be inserted either way and functions regardless. The same with 1142s (1511s) that have double contacts and the shell is not a ground.

[Jim Cannon]

Anyone fit an LED into the original Buick radio?  When I tried one tonight, it did not light up when the radio powered on.  But it flashed when I turned the radio off(?).

 

 

[Hazdaz]

19 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

Anyone fit an LED into the original Buick radio?  When I tried one tonight, it did not light up when the radio powered on.  But it flashed when I turned the radio off(?).

 

 

You probably already know this, but LEDs are directional.  Was it installed the right way? 

 

Here's a link that shows the overall process to installing an LED onto an instrument cluster that used to have a bulb.  As long as the rating on the LED fits the bulb you were replacing there aren't a ton of things that could go wrong except for direction.

 

https://www.instructables.com/Replace-a-Burned-Out-Automotive-Bulb-With-an-LED/

[XframeFX]

Jim, I believe the radio bulb is a BA9S. I couldn't wait to source an LED replacement. So, I adapted an extra 4-LED 194 to a miniature base. It is a single spectrum cool white and works awesome with the reflective coating inside the radio dial. It does not flash. But funny you should mention. I have the same 194 LEDs in the instrument cluster and they flash when I toot the horn! With reverse polarity, same thing.

Again, 194 LEDs must have an embedded circuit because they appear to be polarity insensitive. Not so with many 1142 LEDs except the COB versions.

 

This Forum is great in that we all encounter similar situations and share solutions in our projects.

[XframeFX]

I used Epoxy when soldering it in.

 

One of many charts on-line:

[TheTaxMan]

Any words of wisdom on removing the old bulbs from the housing (specifically the brake and backup lights).  I was able to remove the bulb & socket from the housing but two of the bulbs don't want to come out!  Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks!

[Jim Cannon]

It sounds like corrosion. Spray a little PB blaster in there and press in on the bulb while you turn CCW.

 

Clean all the PB Blaster out after you get the bulb out.

[TheTaxMan]

On 5/20/2021 at 7:30 PM, Jim Cannon said:

It sounds like corrosion. Spray a little PB blaster in there and press in on the bulb while you turn CCW.

 

Clean all the PB Blaster out after you get the bulb out.

Worked like a charm. Thanks Jim!

[wmsue]

SuperBright LED's have a sale for Memorial day - 15% off

I have no connection to the company - just passing along info I got in their email.