1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

If it’s aluminum, you can buy a kit from one of the big box stores. You use a drill as a power source. You will need to sand to 600 or 800 first. Then use the kit. Mike

[Professor]

I tried polishing it with a polish, and there is no way I can get it as bright as some I have seen.  I suspect that the factory chrome plated these, which means I will need to remove it and take it in to be plated.  Perhaps this is something I can do while the painter has the Chrysler apart.  Charlotte, NC has some chrome platers with fairly high ratings so I would be comfortable having it plated there.  I cringe at the thought of the cost.  LOL.

[Professor]

I have a spare grille that has the top tab broken off and will upload an image since it is the same as what is on my C8.  I bet you are right and it is not aluminum… it weighs quite a bit now that I think about it.

 

19 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Aluminum?   

        Everyone I've seen was chrome plated pot metal.  There was someone years ago, that had made a few hundred aftermarket grills.  God knows why because the part only fits C7 and C8 one model year cars.    Maybe it was made out of Aluminum and you have one?  Can you post some close up pics?  

 

    Aluminum (if its in fact bare metal) can be polish just like most metals. Straighten dents, sand out scratches, until very fine sanding, then polish with "never dull"... Great product. 

 

ERIC

 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2023 by Professor (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

35 minutes ago, Professor said:

I tried polishing it with a polish, and there is no way I can get it as bright as some I have seen.  I suspect that the factory chrome plated these, which means I will need to remove it and take it in to be plated.  Perhaps this is something I can do while the painter has the Chrysler apart.  Charlotte, NC has some chrome platers with fairly high ratings so I would be comfortable having it plated there.  I cringe at the thought of the cost.  LOL.

One of the problems with the way the Airstream was built, was that several items are captive on the front end.  This includes the grill, the hood ordainment, and those two small chrome pieces on the sides. To remove these, you have to take the entire front end off the car.  If the painter is doing a really good job, he will be painting the front end items off the car, and now is the time to clean up the chrome parts and have them plated as needed.  

   Today.....Chrome plating costs today are out of the world.  So, the best of luck....

ERIC

Edited February 17, 2023 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Piaras]

Eric is right on the complexity of removal of the grille. Since the car is going into paint it has to be done now and not later.

Pierre

[Randiego]

Professor,

There is a very good metal polish that I use on all metals.  I have tried every  polish out there and  over the years, polish has changed and improved.  First it is important to get all the scratches out of the metal.  That is accomplished (depending on the severity of the scratch) with multi stages of sanding paper.  Once the scratches are removed (I ususally wet sand up to 1000K grit), then I use "Flitz" polishing paste.  It comes in a tube and really does the job of getting that final finish. 

 

Years ago, there was a product from Germany  that I used on my Triumph Motorcycle aluminum cases......Simichrome Polishing Paste.

However, this product, Flitz, seems far superior to the Simichrome.  I use Flitz on all metals;  stainless steel (really gives a beautiful finish) aluminum, brass and chrome.  Once I  get the metal to the luster I want,  in some cases, I have clear coated the metal with a single stage clear urethane.  It just depends on the item and if it is feasable to have it sealed. 

We all know that chromium is "porous" and it is critical to keep it clean and sealed.  Never use an abrasive on chrome.  My plater instructed me years ago to wash the bumpers and other plated parts with a soft terry cloth towel and soapy water only. Then wipe it down and buff with a miracle cloth.  I then go over the chromium with Flitz, then WAX it with a pure silicone wax to "seal" the pores of the metal, preventing oxidation from getting a foothold in the bright work for outstanding results.  This keeps my chromium in "like new" condition.  The process will last a long time, especially if you do not drive in inclement weather.  Most know this but it is worth repeating here for any who don't.  

[Piaras]

Flitz, good to known.

Pierre

[36 D2 Coupe]

Randiego - I second the endorsement for Flitz. I used it after VERY GENTLY removing 80+ years of oxidation and dirt from the woodgrained dash and garnish moldings  on our '36 Dodge using 800 grit sandpaper. It required a really careful touch and I had to walk away many times when my hand got too heavy but I was able to rescue the original woodgrain complete with the worn areas on the door window ledges for authenticity. The Flitz polished the thin and fragile woodgrain as well as I could have hoped and I think it looks good. 

[AURktman]

Add another thumbs up for Flitz.  I’ve used almost all of the aluminum and chrome polishes out there, Flitz and Simichrome are some of the best.  For removing oxidization I prefer the Mothers Aluminum Mag and Wheel polish.  

[GARY F]

Try the polish that the truckers use on there alum. wheels. My son had his come out like chrome.

[VW4X4]

Hey Joe,

    How's things going?    Any updates on your car?   Wouldn't hurt to take a look at the progress, and show

that you really care about the work that's going on....... take a few pictures. 

 

ERIC

[Professor]

3 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

Hey Joe,

    How's things going?    Any updates on your car?   Wouldn't hurt to take a look at the progress, and show

that you really care about the work that's going on....... take a few pictures. 

 

ERIC

 

Hi Eric,

 

I have been so busy at work this semester that all I have done is drive the Chrysler (when it is not raining).  The shop that is going to do the paint is runnning behind, so they do not expect to be able to take the Chrysler before September.  The shop is currently restoring Mrs. Taylor’s Auburn Boat Tail Speedster (reproduction) and I want them to finish her car before they start on mine.  I am not in any rush.  I have some small tasks to complete, but nothing pressing… so all I am doing is having fun driving her!  

 

Thanks so much for checking in, Eric.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

Locally, here all the body shops are on a 6-12 months back log. Makes it bad for those whose vehicles were in an accident. Restoration shops are worse. Parts supply issues are continuing.

Pierre

[Professor]

Brief update:

 

I am having a new exhaust collector made after discovering a new hole in the factory cast iron part.  I removed the collector portion of the exhaust manifold and discovered that the “new” hole appears to be in an extremely thin portion of the collector, not too far from the section I welded.  I used a small metal dental pick and started probing the area around the hole, and it is so thin that I could easily push through the casting in various areas.  I am going to weld it up, but in the mean time, I am having a much stronger functional collector made that matches the original cast piece while I try to find a better original.  I am not hopeful that I will find the part I need since it appears to be a flathead 8 only part, and does not appear to match later L head 8 cylinder engines.  I am keeping my eye out in various online forums and of course, eBay.  I have not driven it for a couple of weeks, and I am already missing it.  Ugh.

 

On another note, I purchased my first electric vehicle; a Tesla Model S Plaid.  It took a couple of months for the factory to build and ship it to NC, but I am thrilled with it.  1,020 horsepower and silky smooth.  This car is unlike anything I have ever experienced.  This is my first new American made “car” (I have had lots of Jeeps and trucks) since 1983 ( a POS Buick Skylark)… and we have come a long way baby!.

 

Joe

[Piaras]

It will be tough to find that part! Good luck! 
 

As for the Tesla, please don’t be like the younger crowd who end up on the local news at 11! That is a lot of power for the street. A friend who does 1/4 mile gasser was blown away while getting a ride in a Plaid car!

Pierre

[Professor]

Hi All,

 

By way of a quick update, the new exhaust collector I had made arrived yesterday!  I am going to sand blast it today, clean it up, paint it, and put it on!   I will repair the original part again and put it on the shelf as a spare.  I am a bit worried that with all the heat cycles, the cast iron is as brittle as can be, so the original part may never be installed again.

 

Joe

 

 

[SuperJonas]

Joe,

 

   Would you be able to tell us who made the replacement exhaust collector? I always keep this type of information for future reference when working on my own Airstream, thanks! 

 

Greg

[VW4X4]

On 7/9/2023 at 11:07 AM, Professor said:

Hi All,

 

By way of a quick update, the new exhaust collector I had made arrived yesterday!  I am going to sand blast it today, clean it up, paint it, and put it on!   I will repair the original part again and put it on the shelf as a spare.  I am a bit worried that with all the heat cycles, the cast iron is as brittle as can be, so the original part may never be installed again.

 

Joe

 

 

While!     That took some work...  So, what about the heat riser valve?

 

By the way, how's the body work coming along?

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Greg,

I have asked the guy who made it if I can release his name and any contact information.  Stand by.

 

Eric,

I don’t think I need the heat riser here in southeastern North Carolina,  so I told him to leave it off.  No body work done yet since the restoration shop that will be working on it is not ready.  I expect a January-ish 2024 date to take it to the restoration shop.

 

All,

I will be heading out today to install the new collector and test it.  Wish me luck!

 

Joe

 

16 hours ago, SuperJonas said:

Joe,

 

   Would you be able to tell us who made the replacement exhaust collector? I always keep this type of information for future reference when working on my own Airstream, thanks! 

 

Greg

 

9 hours ago, VW4X4 said:

While!     That took some work...  So, what about the heat riser valve?

 

By the way, how's the body work coming along?

 

ERIC

 

[Professor]

@all,

 

The fabricator I used is named Ryan (Moose) McCombs and can be reached at moose@manifoldsbymoose.com.  At $540 (with shipping) this was an expensive piece to have manufactured, but it was so well done that it dropped right in as a perfect fit with no modifications.  I could not be more pleased with Moose’s work.  I have Moose’s permission to post his name and contact information.

 

Joe

[marcapra]

On 5/20/2020 at 4:42 AM, Professor said:

Hi All,

 

A few days ago, I became the owner of a 1936 Chrysler Airstream convertible that was being stored since 1971 in an old downtown building near where I live.  The gentlemen storing it has approximately 90 vehicles stored in various downtown buildings he owns.  Walking through these old buildings and seeing all of these cars that have been stored (some since 1950) is amazing.  

 

I have known the 92 year old gentlemen who owns the buildings for about six years, and he is a close friend.  I have told him that if he ever wanted to sell the Chrysler, I wanted to purchase it for whatever price he wants, no negotiation..  Two weeks ago he had a health scare that landed him in the hospital for a few days.  When he got out of the hospital, he called me and asked me to to meet him at his office (he still works every day).  I thought it was odd when he asked me to tell him when I was 30 minutes away so his wife could meet us there.

 

I get to his office and sit down.  His two secretaries and his wife gather around and he picks up this large envelope and hands it to me.  Choking up a bit, he says here... you are the only person in the world I want to have this car.  He told me I could pay whatever I thought it was worth.  The car is unrestored except for having been painted once over 50 years ago.  The upholstery was done at the same time.  There is no rust, and I have all the ownership documents since it was first purchased.  The only thing I can find missing thus far is one hubcap, the sun visors, and the ash tray cover and knob.

 

I am attaching some images.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I remember a guy in the San Diego WPC club who had a car just like that.  he lived in El Cajon in the 1980s, and his name was Russ Parker.  

Edited August 27, 2023 by marcapra (see edit history)

[keiser31]

8 hours ago, marcapra said:

I remember a guy in the San Diego WPC club who had a car just like that.  he lived in El Cajon in the 1980s, and his name was Russ Parker.  

My buddy, Russ Parker's 1936 Airstream....

Edited August 27, 2023 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[VW4X4]

Hey Joe,

    Where have you been?   I hope all is well......

Anything new with the Chrysler?

 

ERIC

[Professor]

Hi Eric!

I have been working, and the Chrysler is waiting to go into paint. Things have been so busy for me that I have hardly had time to breathe.  The Chrysler is running like a top and we are just waiting for the final step. 

Joe

[Stevegolf1]

Gorgeous car, looking forward to seeing it painted 

[Randiego]

Hey Keiser 31,

 

Wow!  A very small world indeed!  I was working at Frank  Lincoln Mercury located at the "National City Mile of Cars" in San Diego.  Across the street was Stanly Dodge.  We saw that incredible car pull up to their parts department.  

 

I went over and asked the owner about his car.  He said that I could see it at a car show coming up here in San Diego. He had to run and could not talk at the time but I did make it to the auto show and spent a lot of time looking and taking pictures of his car. 

 

This was back when we did not have that many car shows like today. But I was suddenly "tuned in" to the classic car shows and watched for them from then on.  At that show, accompaning the Airstream,  there was a beautiful yellow Packard convertible coupe and a  green Cadillac "Roadster".  All were stunning but the Airstream was the rarity and garnered the most attention.  

 

Randy

[Bjorn Klofta]

Hi you are asking for some decoding of the builders plate. I do have the "Service Card Record" dated Jul 7 1936 for my car. And as seen here the number C8 - 1091 is the MOTOR number. Body 844-272. Paint and trim : 104 -480 (if 104 is the paint the colour is deep red - almost burgunder red. Mine is correct according to documentation) Trim : Red leader. The car is in Norway - and I am told that this C8 CC is the only one in Europa. She is in a fair running condition, but as "normal" the rear seal ring on the motor is leaking. I do have 3 sets of "NOS" leader seals but I am wondering if I should put in a more modern seal - and I am also looking for a "how to do instruction" if anyone could tell. You might answer me om my e mail : bklofta@snipp.no. Thanks in advance

[Steve9]

NOS parts are great EXCEPT for seals! Modern seals are the only way to go. Beautiful car!

[VW4X4]

2 hours ago, Steve9 said:

NOS parts are great EXCEPT for seals! Modern seals are the only way to go. Beautiful car!

I completely agree.... I'm just figuring out seals for another project right now.   Its not easy.

Anyone have a list of updated seals for the 36 Chrysler Airstream? 

 

ERIC

Edited December 1, 2023 by VW4X4 (see edit history)