Piaras

There has been this clock sitting on a shelf at a local antique mall for a few years. I finally decided to buy it before it was discarded in error. Here are a few photos for people who have not seen one. A short video showing how the electrical part works to keep the spring wound. Pierre

It will be tough to find that part! Good luck! As for the Tesla, please don’t be like the younger crowd who end up on the local news at 11! That is a lot of power for the street. A friend who does 1/4 mile gasser was blown away while getting a ride in a Plaid car! Pierre

Locally, here all the body shops are on a 6-12 months back log. Makes it bad for those whose vehicles were in an accident. Restoration shops are worse. Parts supply issues are continuing. Pierre

Yes all my gauges are good, and have spares to boot. Pierre

The speedo was slightly slow based upon the reading from the gps unit. Research shows that 60 mph equals 1000 rpm on the drive cable. Disassembled the speedometer via removing the trim bezel and glass. Removed the needle by carefully pulling up off the pin and the face plate was set aside. Reinstalled the indicator. And placed a mark on the edge of the speedo marking 60 mph. Inside the unit there is a small loop indicated in the photo with the yellow line. That is the adjuster. I made a mark with a marker of the original position of the center of the hole, blue line. I set up my lathe to 1000 rpm and installed my collet chuck with a #2 Robertson square drive. In reverse, clockwise when looking at the spindle. Carefully placed the speedo onto the driver in the cable socket and started the lathe. I have a VFD on the motor so it is not a fast start. Takes about 5 seconds to get to speed. The indicator was slow. Stop and now I moved the adjuster (yellow line points to the loop) and moved it clockwise by a small amount and retested. Took a couple moves to be satisfied. The final position is shown by the new mark, red line in photo. The loop is centered on the new mark. Reinstall all the removed parts and reinstall in the dash.

Flitz, good to known. Pierre

Eric is right on the complexity of removal of the grille. Since the car is going into paint it has to be done now and not later. Pierre

Joe Try a chrome polish on the grille with a nice soft cloth. Might surprise you as the chrome can have oxidation on the surface. Pierre

When I bought and placed the spare grille into the shed, it seemed to be too heavy to be Aluminum. I thought it is made from Zinc, but I could be wrong. I will have to check it. As for the finish, it is chrome plated and then painted black all over and after that the front surfaces are cleaned of the paint. Aluminum will not stay polished as it is highly reactive to the environment. I do know the finish is not Nickel as it color is not the same as Chrome. Pierre

My car and the other one were built at the Windsor Plant in Ontario Canada. It has been documented that Chrysler and Ford built the Canadian market cars with a hodgepodge of trims from the parts bin. This is why Mercury cars in Canada are so different. Chrysler used a lot of Plymouth parts on the Chrysler models over the years. https://www.wheels.ca/news/canada-only-cars-part-2

My front grille emblem looks the same except not round. So I would say not really an outlier in my opinion and 99.99% would not know that it is wrong. The really nice one is on a car nearby, while the other is mine, which is the same but weather beaten. My spare grille in the shed, the emblem is missing. I am just happy to have found the grille! Pierre

Yellow metal corrosion is not entirely internet BS. We see it on a couple of our rolling machines that have brass bearing blocks and the bearings are cooled by a full synthetic Ester oil package. Not polyester. Mind you we are running at 500F unlike in a car where 300F is considered hot. What we see is a dark green slime and corrosion in those areas. The amount of corrosion is not huge but it is always there when we do maintenance. I personally doubt modern GL would still have that issue as the transmissions I have been into continue to have brass components.

Cold! We are at 2F as I write this. Still it is so cold I am doing some work on making a stencil for the gauge and speedometer plates to repaint them. This will take a while and I am still in the drawing stage in my cad program! Yellow metals require careful selection of the correct oils to prevent corrosion. In your case it is not likely the mileage but time will set when the lube is changed in the transmission. Pierre

While I was sewing up the burlap, “she who shall be obeyed” was amazed at the skill at doing the job I had! I told her the same as I told my mom, sewing is just a bunch of straight lines. I did order some high quality foam but could not use it with the felt pads at the same time. So it is set aside for now. Pierre

Yeah, the pivot can be tough to get set. Lack of space and spring pressures etc can fight against you. Sometimes a bigger hammer is the right tool! I have this one from about 40 years younger trany. Pierre

Hard to tell when under lights verses outside. That is a nice color. Similar to the battleship grey we see on an lots of cars lately.

I do recall that he wanted the car to be black with red interior like the one he saw many years ago. So you could honor his dream by going black, but black is the most unforgiving color as it shows EVERY wave, dip, bump, etc on the body. I watch Kindig Design and some beautiful cars were red interior and silver or deep blue comes to mind. Since you have spent the money on the interior to get it back to red, the current light green is not a good color.

The bottom frame was in good shape. The top wire frame was slightly warped but the springs being secured to it via the hog rings takes care of that. The springs were done, I could flatten them easily. I purchased new springs and burlap. I did go up in wire size from the original 12 to 9 gauge and @ $3 per spring it is an inexpensive repair.

So do the judges pay the bills, own and drive the car or you? Unless one wants the 100 points, paint it what you want. The next owner can repaint it. Pierre

Cleaned the seat tracks of grease, dirt etc and re-lubricated. They have a huge 9.5" travel!

Gave the cover a good washing in the bathtub. Water was black on the first pass. took another 2 washes to clear and 3 rinses. The silt in the tub was impressive on the first time! Now to tack the cover in place. Cleaned the car as the frayed old burlap was everywhere under the seat.

When I was still working the parts counter at my local dealership, we used an outfit called Fastener Center. Pages and pages of trim, interior, exterior clips etc. In the states there must be a similar company. Pierre

Got the frame stripped and now to order supplies to rebuild it. Pierre

Down to the base. Found an assembly tag.

The top pad under the cover is sewn to the burlap and hog-ringed in place.