VW4X4

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About VW4X4

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  • Birthday 11/12/1959

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  1. If such thing exists I have never ever seen them in the last 35 years, on any of the dozens of 36 Chrysler engines I've had. I'm thinking that in Australia the model year may not be the same as the US. Can you post a picture of where they are used and what they look like?
  2. Yes the head gasket, and block length are the same, 24 5/8", for 34-36. Old gaskets are not a good idea. Even the copper head gaskets had, (I think asbestos) in side of them, which over the year dries and fail apart.
  3. The clutch linkage is not shown in any book for any model. The linkage changed depending on several things: couple, sedan, overdrive, convert. Good luck finding parts. I had to make mine....
  4. I have several 1936 chrysler six cylinder ,C7, engine blocks , Heads, along with many other misc. parts. If your doing a rebuild and find a crack, I have what you need, cheap. If your missing engine components, brackets, I may also have it.... Located in Pgh. PA.
  5. You guy got it...... This add makes no sense... LOL Is there anyone moderating this group..... This should be deleted ...
  6. Sorry, but the 1936 six engine was a one year only engine. That's why its so hard to get parts for... 34, and 35 had no water jacket around the cylinders, along with several other changes.
  7. Hi Frank, To the best of my knowledge it would, but this is not something that I have personally done. Most 37-54 Chrysler/Desoto and industrial engine blocks were similar and bolt comparable. Minor bore changes, and valve stem / seats were tweaked in these engine along with a few other things. Others many be more knowledgeable than I. There are plenty of parts for these engines, still available at local auto parts. That said, it still doesn't justify damaging your original car. I can tell you that doing this would deteriorate the value considerably. If you really want to drive the car reliably, take the plunge and install a modern day straight six, with fuel injection, from a jeep. Its the only engine that will fit without cutting the frame. That way you can put the original engine back in at anytime. The Jeep straight six are very dependable and easy to find in a junk yard. This is the way I was going to go, until I found a spare engine for my 4dr Airstream. Who ever put that rear axle in your car did so because the original axle is not the best design. They are noisy and break axle shafts. Also bearing shimming is a problem, and often leak grease. Smart guy but was not looking out for originality of the car. Keeping your car original is definitely important to its long term health and survival... You might want to post some pictures...
  8. Warning: anyone using stainless steel to sleeve wheel cylinder! One major issue I have is dis-similar metals. My wheel cylinders were all sleeved with stainless steel (SS). The pistons in them are all Aluminum (AL). Turns out if you don't use the vehicle much, within a few months the wheel cylinders are stuck, because of corrosion. This is a major issue between raw AL and SS. This is exactly why a lot more stainless is not used in modern vehicles today. I'm trying to find a simple solution for this. The work was done by Applied Hydraulics. I wish Applied Hydraulics would have warned me about this . They did a good job , and at very reasonable prices but missed the boat on this problem. Anyone have a simple solution to my AL/SS corrosion problem?
  9. IF your engine is correct it should be a 241.5 C. I. These engines are one model year only. Head and block have a C7 cast into it, and the serial number starts with C7. Being one model year only, if you need a crank or the block is bad, most get replaced with a newer 1937 or later model years which are much easier to find parts for. I do have some good engine blocks if you need one. I've been trying to find good homes for these blocks. Weak links in these engines are piston/rings, connecting rod bolts, and cracks in the cranks. These engines do not rev. but with the overdrive and the original rear axle, these cars will keep up with 70 MPH traffic. I've done it, but would not recommend this for long periods of time. Specially with the original brakes. The coupe had a deeper rear axle gear ratio. The coupe also had a different inner front wheel bearing. (I can't figure this one out). Plymouth and Dodge are not the same in a lot of ways. You can always tell the amateur mechanics that try to tell you that, LOL. Your going to find this is a very lonely and special model vehicle. Feel free to contact me if I can be of further assistance. ERIc
  10. Bart55, I had to go find these. You can see they are in very bad shape, but these parts were saved only for this event, (to be used as a pattern) It sure would be nice to find a replacement for this. The chrome around the window frame is very impressive compare to the other cars from Chrysler at that time period. What you have is a very close match. I can take better measurements if you like. A quick tape measure shows about .4" across the bottom and .6" up the inside edge. This channel had rubber on BOTH inside and outside. The rubber on the inside was clearly just cut from a thin sheet to protect the glass. You could easily cut this yourself out of the right thickness of rubber sheet. The outside rubber is the real problem. The outside rubber covered the entire metal channel and even had a lip that protruded to the outside. You can see a little of what is left of the lip it in all three pictures. One last thing. The name AMCO is stamped on this channel several places. Sure would be a huge success to get all this back the way it was made. Please keep this page updated if you have any luck. Eric Pgh. PA