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SuperJonas

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Everything posted by SuperJonas

  1. This is probably my favorite mix when working on the cars...it's jazzy but with enough of a modern vibe to really keep things upbeat even after I drop that water pump stud or fan bolt down the front of the Airstream's straight 8 and landing somewhere under that 'floating power' engine mount!!😁🤣
  2. Nice looking Imperial! Car must have been sitting for a while and/or in the mud, take a look at those yucky looking tires on the drivers side...interior looks nicely done if not exact to original standards. Wonder where the 413 went...
  3. The oddly aligned and somewhat repetitive photos aside, this appears to be a nice car for the money, would like to see some engine views however for this price point, it's a good deal.
  4. I am super confused on the statement...so I can pay 24K without question, yet dicker down to 21.5K already knowing this is 'firm'...why would someone pay 24K if they already know he will take 21.5K? Unless he has it listed on multiple venues and is using CL as his last resort.
  5. Yes indeed this example does; the telltale pump/reservoir sitting upright behind the generator and the steering wheel hub has the words "power steering" marked prominently in the center. Quite a nice example this one is; well taken care of over the years for sure.
  6. Looks like a nice example, these are one of my favorite MoPars of the era, just a quick point - power steering was not standard on the Deluxe, it was still an option which truthfully was ordered almost all the time however there are a few around that have the 'armstrong' version. Mine is one, and I can tell you it's not so easy going at slow speeds! Greg
  7. Though the ad doesn't specifically state which engine this is, the photos indicate the base 230hp 283. In this case, the orange 'Chevrolet' valve covers are correct. The higher horse 270/315hp engines received the aluminum 'Corvette' script covers. And I agree with Dave, the C1s are a real treat to drive! Greg
  8. It may be slightly different than my '35 Airstream 8 Cylinder, but I was able to double nut one of the the water pump studs and remove it. Once that was done, I had just enough clearance to remove the pump assembly without removing the radiator. Of course I had to remove the fan first which also was a tenuous job. Re-assembly was similar but again, even in the best of circumstances I had about 1/2" of clearance with the water pump snout and the radiator, a careful job not to accidently damage the radiator. Good luck, perhaps if you can maneuver the radiator forward just enough, you can get the pump off. Once you have the pump removed, I recommend the Flying Dutchman to rebuild it, well worth it! Greg
  9. One of my favorite MoPars of the post-war era...gargantuan proportions! Perfect ride and good power...working on the Auto Temp II roughly equivalent to a living nightmare though...and the rim-blow horn...neat idea, but they never seem to work. I had a black 2 door - one of a few cars I truly regretted selling... Greg
  10. Just to update this after a few months - I was able to remove the water pump without removing the radiator afterall - I double nutted one of the mounting studs and turned it out....this allowed me the slightest room to turn the pump for removal. Now, I've gotten the pump back from the Dutchman (great service BTW); he upgraded the impeller on the back and rebuilt the unit. Got it installed on the car this Saturday last and am now in the process of reinstalling the fan blade, freshening up all the hoses, fan belt and general reassembly. I purchased new hoses and clamps from Restoration Specialties (also good people). I may have the car back on the road soon! in the process, I replaced the heater valve on the lower hose (somewhat tricky - had to drill the hose just so) and replaced the lower radiator pipe (had to custom up new one out of stainless from a local pipe shop) after the old one swiss cheesed coming out of my blast cabinet. If I can be of assistance for anyone working on a similar endeavor, please let me know! Greg
  11. Keep an eye out on eBay Motors....a pair comes up every so often with a commensurate price to match their rarity. Good luck and keep that CZ rolling!! Greg
  12. I really like the '54 NYers, I own two of them. I can say the interior is in no way original though appears nicely done with a two tone vinyl. I believe we see the remnants of the original color of the interior based on the steering wheel. While this is the exceedingly rare (for the model year) 2 door club coupe, the original 20k asking price is too high, I checked the link and see it's now a more reasonable 15k though being a base NYer and not a 'Deluxe' it may find to be a tough sell even at that price point. Seems (from the angle) like the LH rear flank 'New Yorker' script has broken, probably during a re-install after paint, these are fragile. Still, appears as a very nice car based on appearance.
  13. I would give the Flying Dutchman a call...1-888-595-1110; he is currently rebuilding my '35 Chrysler CZ pump and may have a some cores in stock for your engine. Super friendly guy, name is Wade. Hope this helps and good luck, that is a nice looking car! Greg
  14. Hello, On the '35 CZ Touring Sedan, all the jack components - jack, lug, handle, plate and engine crank are located under the front seat, specifically the passenger side as the drivers side has the battery box. Perhaps the '36 'vert is a bit different but not a lot of other places for storage in these cars. If no one else comes on here, I can take some pictures but it will be a little while as the car is put away for the winter. This is why I hadn't responded to your head light question in an earlier thread, I haven't been over to the car in a few weeks. Though once my water pump comes back from the shop, I'll be back over there. Hope this helps a little, Greg
  15. My Dupont charts show paint code 103 as black for 1936. Black body, black fenders, black wheels. Good luck! Greg
  16. Hello All, As we are effectively in the winter months here in Pennsylvania, I am tackling some latent projects on my ’35 Chrysler Airstream CZ. I am in the process of removing the water pump for a rebuild as it has developed a periodic leak at the shaft which has been exacerbated by my recent drives this past year. Since the condition of the car is such I have no reason to believe this has ever been removed before, I am proceeding slowly. I made good progress (just nuts and bolts really) in removing the radiator hoses, bypass hose & elbow, thermostat and housing, heater hose connector and fan. I loosened the water pump itself (2 bolts and 3 studs) and wouldn’t you know the studs do not allow enough clearance for me to pull the pump off without hitting the radiator. I only need about ½” but it’s a no go, the radiator has to be removed or at least tilted forward (bottom towards the grille) to allow the clearance needed to slide the pump off the studs. So my question is has anyone had experience in removing a radiator from an Airstream or a companion MOPAR make of similar vintage (’35/’36 I believe are closely related). I can see the hood stabilizers need removed and the 4 screws/nuts on either side of the core support have to come out. After that, does the radiator just tilt forward and lift out? (Of course removing the 2 hood cowlings to completely lift out) I am concerned particularly if there is enough clearance away from the grill cowl above the radiator (the radiator would have to tilt forward approximately 4” to clear this). Otherwise, I’d have to attempt to disassemble the front of the car, of which of course I would rather not try to do. Any tips are welcome regarding removal of the radiator. Two follow-up questions, assuming I get the radiator out, does anyone have a preferred shop they recommend to hot tank/clean it? I have no reason to believe it needs directly repaired but after 85 years, I figure it would be good to remove any accumulated mud/goop in the tanks. I am looking at taking it to Powell’s Radiator in Wilmington, OH, anybody use them recently? And the water pump I was going to send to the Dutchman, I have read very good things about him or maybe Gould’s in MA. Again, anyone have recent experience with either of these vendors? Thanks for bearing with me on this and taking the time to read through it; any and all assistance in most appreciated! Greg
  17. Got my relay back from JC Auto a while back and finally got it back on the car today - a quick twist of the key, the hemi was back to running normally again. Can't say enough good things about JC Auto, these guys go above the standard and made my relay look better than new, highly recommend them to anyone! Greg
  18. Hello, When I needed a new tank for my '48 NYer, I went with Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts... https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm I got the 20 gallon in stainless, it was a very nice piece and still doing it's job after 10 years. Don't think you will see it in their catalog, but call them they have or can make just about any tank needed. Hope this helps, Greg
  19. The first photo looks like a '35 Airstream handle to me, quite similar to the one on my CZ. Greg
  20. Well if eBay is any gauge, there is a fair looking set of these on right now for a cool $850.00...the price of unobtanium perhaps... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-1936-CHRYSLER-CZ-TAIL-LIGHTS/164461700262?hash=item264aae64a6:g:SXcAAOSw~qNfkFzt
  21. Quite a nice car and looks great! Couple items I noticed: Inexplicably, the latest shots of the interior of this car are mixed up. Some appear to show this car's interior but there are '53 Chrysler pictures interspersed, very odd. Also, I have never seen a '54 with the column shift indicator as this car has. It appears to be a housing with the 'Power Flite' script underneath. All I have looked at, as mine is, are a plainer "RNDL" display. Not saying it's incorrect at all but perhaps this is a late build car right before transitioning to the '55s. Greg
  22. Thanks to all that replied; I had the opportunity to remove it (the relay) last night and definitely something broke inside, as I can hear a small piece rattling around. I shipped it off to JC Auto to have them look at it and ideally rebuild it. It looks simple enough but didn't want to open it up myself. tom1954- $100 is a great price! I must of missed that one. I have seen them for $387-400 range on the few websites that display them. Thinking I am going to drop the starter and rebuild that and the solenoid while I am waiting on the relay return to ensure all is well across the board on the components, thanks again! Greg
  23. Hello All, Went out for a ride in my '54 New Yorker on Sunday, and turn the key, no crank, no start! Just the sound of my starter relay clicking (once). I began the troubleshooting, ruled out the battery and cables - lighting and all power items work fine. This is a somewhat regularly driven summertime type car, I last had it out 2 weeks prior without concern. Where I am in the trouble shooting is I fashioned a jumper wire to go from the battery lug on the relay to the "IGN" and "SOL" lugs on the same relay, per the '54 shop manual. When I touch the battery lug to the IGN lug, I get the same one click of the relay as I do when I turn the key from "on" to "start" and nothing else. When I jump to the SOL lug (starter solenoid), the engine cranks as normal. Thus, my deduction leads me to believe the starter relay is the culprit. It looks original and I have never touched it in the 10 years I've had the car. I suspect the contacts have corroded over the many years, interrupting current to the starter. Now, these are notoriously hard to find and expensive to boot. I can have JC Auto rebuild mine, which is the my likely course of action. Before I do that, I wanted to solicit some opinions from the experts here. Could I be wrong in my amateur analysis and perhaps the solenoid is bad? The way I see it, it comes to 3 areas...the relay, the solenoid or the ignition switch. I ruled out the ignition switch as it is sending power to the relay just fine (the click from turning the key) and since I can get the starter to turn by jumping to the solenoid lug, I believe the solenoid is okay. What do you guys think? Greg
  24. Joe, What a difference a year makes! My '35 tag clearly identifies which codes are which (CZ 4 door Touring, trim code is DG for Deluxe). I guess in '36, the layout changed (see what I mean in the picture). I looked at my Dupont color charts for '36 Chrysler cars, and I see your car could be "Kiltie Green" or "Polo Green Metallic" though I doubt it is "Kiltie Green" as the fenders are supposed to be partially black if that were the case. What is curious though is the paint codes for these colors (309, 311, 312, 313) do not show up on your tag. So the mystery deepens a little! On mine, paint code 213 corresponds to Viennese Blue which is correct for 1935. I scanned that 1936 page here also, take a look, sorry it's an old book and the scan quality is poor. Hope this helps somewhat, and what a great car you have! Greg
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