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  1. It may be slightly different than my '35 Airstream 8 Cylinder, but I was able to double nut one of the the water pump studs and remove it. Once that was done, I had just enough clearance to remove the pump assembly without removing the radiator. Of course I had to remove the fan first which also was a tenuous job. Re-assembly was similar but again, even in the best of circumstances I had about 1/2" of clearance with the water pump snout and the radiator, a careful job not to accidently damage the radiator. Good luck, perhaps if you can maneuver the radiator forward just enough, you can get the pump off. Once you have the pump removed, I recommend the Flying Dutchman to rebuild it, well worth it! Greg
  2. One of my favorite MoPars of the post-war era...gargantuan proportions! Perfect ride and good power...working on the Auto Temp II roughly equivalent to a living nightmare though...and the rim-blow horn...neat idea, but they never seem to work. I had a black 2 door - one of a few cars I truly regretted selling... Greg
  3. Just to update this after a few months - I was able to remove the water pump without removing the radiator afterall - I double nutted one of the mounting studs and turned it out....this allowed me the slightest room to turn the pump for removal. Now, I've gotten the pump back from the Dutchman (great service BTW); he upgraded the impeller on the back and rebuilt the unit. Got it installed on the car this Saturday last and am now in the process of reinstalling the fan blade, freshening up all the hoses, fan belt and general reassembly. I purchased new hoses and clamps from Restoration Specialties (also good people). I may have the car back on the road soon! in the process, I replaced the heater valve on the lower hose (somewhat tricky - had to drill the hose just so) and replaced the lower radiator pipe (had to custom up new one out of stainless from a local pipe shop) after the old one swiss cheesed coming out of my blast cabinet. If I can be of assistance for anyone working on a similar endeavor, please let me know! Greg
  4. Keep an eye out on eBay Motors....a pair comes up every so often with a commensurate price to match their rarity. Good luck and keep that CZ rolling!! Greg
  5. I really like the '54 NYers, I own two of them. I can say the interior is in no way original though appears nicely done with a two tone vinyl. I believe we see the remnants of the original color of the interior based on the steering wheel. While this is the exceedingly rare (for the model year) 2 door club coupe, the original 20k asking price is too high, I checked the link and see it's now a more reasonable 15k though being a base NYer and not a 'Deluxe' it may find to be a tough sell even at that price point. Seems (from the angle) like the LH rear flank 'New Yorker' script has broken, probably during a re-install after paint, these are fragile. Still, appears as a very nice car based on appearance.
  6. I would give the Flying Dutchman a call...1-888-595-1110; he is currently rebuilding my '35 Chrysler CZ pump and may have a some cores in stock for your engine. Super friendly guy, name is Wade. Hope this helps and good luck, that is a nice looking car! Greg
  7. Hello, On the '35 CZ Touring Sedan, all the jack components - jack, lug, handle, plate and engine crank are located under the front seat, specifically the passenger side as the drivers side has the battery box. Perhaps the '36 'vert is a bit different but not a lot of other places for storage in these cars. If no one else comes on here, I can take some pictures but it will be a little while as the car is put away for the winter. This is why I hadn't responded to your head light question in an earlier thread, I haven't been over to the car in a few weeks. Though once my water pump comes back from the shop, I'll be back over there. Hope this helps a little, Greg
  8. My Dupont charts show paint code 103 as black for 1936. Black body, black fenders, black wheels. Good luck! Greg
  9. Hello All, As we are effectively in the winter months here in Pennsylvania, I am tackling some latent projects on my ’35 Chrysler Airstream CZ. I am in the process of removing the water pump for a rebuild as it has developed a periodic leak at the shaft which has been exacerbated by my recent drives this past year. Since the condition of the car is such I have no reason to believe this has ever been removed before, I am proceeding slowly. I made good progress (just nuts and bolts really) in removing the radiator hoses, bypass hose & elbow, thermostat and housing, heater hose connector and fan. I loosened the water pump itself (2 bolts and 3 studs) and wouldn’t you know the studs do not allow enough clearance for me to pull the pump off without hitting the radiator. I only need about ½” but it’s a no go, the radiator has to be removed or at least tilted forward (bottom towards the grille) to allow the clearance needed to slide the pump off the studs. So my question is has anyone had experience in removing a radiator from an Airstream or a companion MOPAR make of similar vintage (’35/’36 I believe are closely related). I can see the hood stabilizers need removed and the 4 screws/nuts on either side of the core support have to come out. After that, does the radiator just tilt forward and lift out? (Of course removing the 2 hood cowlings to completely lift out) I am concerned particularly if there is enough clearance away from the grill cowl above the radiator (the radiator would have to tilt forward approximately 4” to clear this). Otherwise, I’d have to attempt to disassemble the front of the car, of which of course I would rather not try to do. Any tips are welcome regarding removal of the radiator. Two follow-up questions, assuming I get the radiator out, does anyone have a preferred shop they recommend to hot tank/clean it? I have no reason to believe it needs directly repaired but after 85 years, I figure it would be good to remove any accumulated mud/goop in the tanks. I am looking at taking it to Powell’s Radiator in Wilmington, OH, anybody use them recently? And the water pump I was going to send to the Dutchman, I have read very good things about him or maybe Gould’s in MA. Again, anyone have recent experience with either of these vendors? Thanks for bearing with me on this and taking the time to read through it; any and all assistance in most appreciated! Greg
  10. Got my relay back from JC Auto a while back and finally got it back on the car today - a quick twist of the key, the hemi was back to running normally again. Can't say enough good things about JC Auto, these guys go above the standard and made my relay look better than new, highly recommend them to anyone! Greg
  11. Hello, When I needed a new tank for my '48 NYer, I went with Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts... https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm I got the 20 gallon in stainless, it was a very nice piece and still doing it's job after 10 years. Don't think you will see it in their catalog, but call them they have or can make just about any tank needed. Hope this helps, Greg
  12. The first photo looks like a '35 Airstream handle to me, quite similar to the one on my CZ. Greg
  13. Well if eBay is any gauge, there is a fair looking set of these on right now for a cool $850.00...the price of unobtanium perhaps... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-1936-CHRYSLER-CZ-TAIL-LIGHTS/164461700262?hash=item264aae64a6:g:SXcAAOSw~qNfkFzt
  14. Quite a nice car and looks great! Couple items I noticed: Inexplicably, the latest shots of the interior of this car are mixed up. Some appear to show this car's interior but there are '53 Chrysler pictures interspersed, very odd. Also, I have never seen a '54 with the column shift indicator as this car has. It appears to be a housing with the 'Power Flite' script underneath. All I have looked at, as mine is, are a plainer "RNDL" display. Not saying it's incorrect at all but perhaps this is a late build car right before transitioning to the '55s. Greg
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