1936 Chrysler Airstream C-8 Convertible Restoration

[Professor]

Long overdue update:

 

After I returned from Hershey, I ran into a speedometer issue (actually, an odometer issue).  The main odometer “locked up” (for lack of a better term) causing the worm gear that drove the odometer to pop out of its holder (second image).  For some reason, when the odometer tried to transition from 1999 to 2000, it froze and caused the damage you see.  It turns out that the grease in the odometer wheels was petrified and would not let the odometer turn easily.  I tore the speedometer apart (Trick:  Use a fork under the speedometer needle to pop it off)), lubricated everything, fixed the bent tab, and put it all back together.  In the process, I turned the odometer to all zeros just for the fun of it.

 

The work was relatively simple, but a bit delicate; especially when driving out the pin that all of the odometer wheels press onto.

 

I have a working odometer again, and while I was in there, I calibrated the speedometer.  It is still two mph off, but that’s better than the seven or so mph that it was off previously.

 

Fun job… but I don’t want to do it again for awhile.  🙂

 

Joe

[r1lark]

Good job! Luckily nothing was broken. 

 

The odometer wheels look like they clean up as new. 

[Professor]

New (not so fun) update:

 

Driving home from getting fuel just now, I shifted into second gear and I heard a knocking noise.  I shifted immediately into third gear, no knock.  Slowed down and shifted into first, no knock.  Shifted from first into second…. Knock.  I drove home the roughly five miles shifting directly from first into third… no problems.

 

Looks like I get to pull the transmission.  Not such a bad thing since I knew that the clutch was on the weak side.  I just hope I can find the parts I need to rebuild the overdrive transmission, or perhaps, another already rebuilt or used transmission.

 

On the upside, I have always wanted to rebuild a manual transmission and now I will get my chance.  I would certainly appreciate any leads anyone may have on a 1936 Chrysler Airstream overdrive transmission and/or parts.

 

Thanks gang.

 

Joe

[Professor]

Thanks to @Jeff Perkins / Mn who sent me a link to the 1936 Overdrive transmission on Facebook Marketplace, I will soon have a transmission on the way.  I will pull out my current transmission and replace it and take care of the clutch and throwout bearing while I am in there.

 

How difficult is it to take a transmission out?  It seems that it would not be that difficult since I can remove the floorboard to access everything from the top.  If you have pulled a transmission out of an airstream, Is there anything I need to know or be aware of?

 

Joe

[Jeff Perkins / Mn]

Keith Barron @keithb7 has posted video of his 1938 Plymouth resurrection on you tube, search “Keith’s garage”. I believe he may have one on trans removal.

[keiser31]

34 minutes ago, Professor said:

Thanks to @Jeff Perkins / Mn who sent me a link to the 1936 Overdrive transmission on Facebook Marketplace, I will soon have a transmission on the way.  I will pull out my current transmission and replace it and take care of the clutch and throwout bearing while I am in there.

 

How difficult is it to take a transmission out?  It seems that it would not be that difficult since I can remove the floorboard to access everything from the top.  If you have pulled a transmission out of an airstream, Is there anything I need to know or be aware of?

 

Joe

Mark the drive shaft/u-joints so as to re-install it in the same position.

[VW4X4]

On 10/25/2022 at 9:04 AM, Professor said:

Thanks to @Jeff Perkins / Mn who sent me a link to the 1936 Overdrive transmission on Facebook Marketplace, I will soon have a transmission on the way.  I will pull out my current transmission and replace it and take care of the clutch and throwout bearing while I am in there.

 

How difficult is it to take a transmission out?  It seems that it would not be that difficult since I can remove the floorboard to access everything from the top.  If you have pulled a transmission out of an airstream, Is there anything I need to know or be aware of?

 

Joe

I've done this several time.  You must remove the floor. The shifter (top of the trans.) must be removed, so, the floor has to come out.  Tail shaft of the trans. is captive to the E-brake cable mechanism, so this mechanism has to be removed.  Clutch linkage is attached to the driver side of the trans. Each model, Coupe, 4dr, and conv. will be slightly different, because the pedals are in different places.  The rest is self explanatory.    Really not that hard.

Your worst part is going to be removal of the floor.  If it hasn't been out in a long time, prepare for dirt, rust, drilling out screws.  Post a lot of pictures, I would like to see any differences.

 

ERIC

Edited October 26, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Professor]

All,

 

Before I forget, I found a photocopy of an original 1936 Chrysler convertible top manual.  Here are the images:

 

w

 

Joe

[Steve9]

I love owning a Chrysler product especially when it’s time to pull a transmission. Ask anyone who owns a Ford or GM product of the era how they like transmission removal!

[Professor]

Here we go....

 

[Professor]

Drum roll please....

 

 

I dread to see what the cluster gear looks like.

 

Time to crawl to the underside and start taking it apart.  By the way, the overdrive unit is longer than the non-overdrive transmission, and honestly, looking at the room I have to move the transmission rearward, I am concerned that the transmission may not be removable from the bottom.  The X support that runs across the frame crosses towards the rear of the transmission, and the tunnel that the driveshaft goes through is not removable.  I am going to start taking things apart and will take some images.  An 8 cylinder convertible with overdrive may be a special case of "transmission cannot be removed without pulling the engine".  I sure hope not.  I guess we will find out.  🙂

 

Joe

[Professor]

Oh... I forgot to mention the good news.  It appears that first and third gear are fine and I think the syncros are okay as well.  I will take a closer look when I get the transmission out.

 

Joe

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

Drum roll please....

 

 

 

I dread to see what the cluster gear looks like.

 

Time to crawl to the underside and start taking it apart.  By the way, the overdrive unit is longer than the non-overdrive transmission, and honestly, looking at the room I have to move the transmission rearward, I am concerned that the transmission may not be removable from the bottom.  The X support that runs across the frame crosses towards the rear of the transmission, and the tunnel that the driveshaft goes through is not removable.  I am going to start taking things apart and will take some images.  An 8 cylinder convertible with overdrive may be a special case of "transmission cannot be removed without pulling the engine".  I sure hope not.  I guess we will find out.  🙂

 

Joe

I guess I should have mentioned the overdrive also.  All my cars have overdrive.  I have been able to remove the transmission with the engine and bell housing in place.  Clearly by looking at your floor panels, you are in a very different situation, with the convt., and the 8 cly. ...... good luck...

 

           On another note, I'm wonder why that gear broke?  Did you drain the gear oil yet? Any chance it was run low?

ERIC

 

[Professor]

Just drained the oil and these came out.  They appear to match the missing teeth perfectly and they do not appear to be chewed up.  Maybe there is some hope that the broken teeth did not bounce around in the transmission too much. I used second gear once when the failure occurred and a second time to test on the way home.  After the test, I drove first to third the five miles home and did not drive it after that.  I hope I can rebuild this transmission.  If I were a betting man, I would say that the first tooth failed and caused the second tooth to fail.  On tooth is sheared perfectly at the base and the other is about 2/3 sheered.  I will look at the teeth closely to see if I can figure out why they failed.  Stress fracture failures look completely different than shear failures.

 

See images attached.

 

@VW4X4, When I first brought this home, I drained and refilled the transmission.  I drained and filled it one other time to make sure the fluid was clean, and then I topped it off once with about 8 ounces of fluid.  I have a small leak at the speedometer and rear seal. It could have been run low before I got it, or, it could be that 8 or so ounces low could have caused the issue.

 

Joe

[Grimy]

I don't know about Chrysler, but my 1936 Pierce with X-frame and BW OD has the OD removable separately from transmission (not easy but not too hard), which makes the transmission infinitely easier to remove.  Carefully inspect the OD clutch gear, which is about 3/4 inch thick and has 8 "dogs" or "ears" (semi-oval rounded-corner projections) which connect the trans main shaft to the OD shaft.  The clutch gear is unobtainium!

 

Also, inspect the rear of the OD case.  The primary cause of failure in 1936-38 Pierce ODs is that the aft (exit) end of the OD case contains a bushing, not a bearing.  The bushing gets egged out which allows the OD shaft to wobble at the front--and this causes the dogs/ears on the clutch gear to be knocked off.  The fix is to substitute a bearing for the OD exit bushing, which will necessitate machining the inside of the case.  Then fit a modern lip seal.

 

Since you have to pull the trans & OD anyway, I urge you to make these improvements now so that you'll never have to pull that trans again in your lifetime.

 

When reattaching the control cable, be very careful that each end of the operating lever has reached the ends of its travel.  Have an assistant in the driver's seat while you are underneath the car.  Have your assistant depress the clutch while you move the OD lever to its two extremes ("in" and "out") and mark those positions with marker on chalk on a reference point under the car.  When you reattach the cable and its clevis, have your assistant declutch and operate the handle several times while you ensure that the lever on the OD fully extends to both "in" and "out" positions.  Adjust until it does get fully seated at both extremes.

[Bloo]

WHOOMP! There it is.

 

Have a good close look at @Professor's second picture from his last post.

 

 

 

[Grimy]

I must add that I do NOT claim that Chrysler or other makes with BW ODs have bushings rather than bearings at the exit end of the OD.  1936-38 Pierces have cases that are unique to Pierce--for mounting purposes, but the gears and shafts are shared with other makes:  those Pierces share gears, shafts, etc with Studebaker, and as far as I know, the "guts" of the R-1 mechanical ODs are common to all makes using them.  So your Chrysler and other may have factory-installed bearings at that critical point, but please check it out.

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Bloo said:

WHOOMP! There it is.

 

Have a good close look at @Professor's second picture from his last post.

 

 

 

I agree.  This tooth looks like some structural problem.  ITs likely it broke first.  Possible it was cut wrong, or metal issues, from manufacturing.  Then Joe comes along,  rebuilds the top end,  getting the engine to putting out Max. HP.

and it gave up.   

 

ERIC 

[Bloo]

 

 

[Professor]

The transmission is out.  I did not need to remove the overdrive unit, there is *just* enough room to slide the transmission back and drop the aft end enough for it to clear the driveshaft tunnel. The space is so close that I had to remove a small parking brake bracket that the driver's side parking brake cable pivots on.  Needless to say, I figured this out after I had the transmission almost out and had to push it back in a bit to remove the bracket.  The transmission is light enough for me to drop it to my chest and then roll it off my chest on to the concrete, but when I put it back in, I will purchase a harbor freight transmission jack to get everything lined up.

 

Next steps are to remove the bell housing after removing the starter and everything else and figuring out how to hold the rear of the engine up (the rear motor mounts are integral to the bell housing).  I will take a look at the flywheel and see if it needs anything and I will have the pressure plate surfaced and replace the clutch and throwout bearing.  While have the floorboards out, I will go ahead and replace the old mechanical brake switch with a new mechanical brake switch and rebuild a factory master cylinder and put it in.  The clutch release pivot points are a worn out disaster, so I will need to either figure out what parts are missing to cause it to be so loose, or replace the parts that are worn out if I can find them. I will go ahead and scrape all of the grime off of the frame and areas around the transmission and get everything clean.  As you can see from the images, it is disgusting down there.

 

I glanced over the stress fracture comments and I appreciate the feedback.  I will take some macro images of the cracks under a good light and see what shows up.

 

Thanks for the comments gang.  More to come!

 

Joe

[Professor]

Take a close look at the first image below.  There is a strike indentation in the face of the tooth, just above where the fracture begins.  This makes me think that the other tooth (second image) failed first and then impacted the tooth in the first image, causing it to break.  This said, it is absolutely possible that the tooth in the first picture failed and the impact shown on the face occurred after the tooth failed.  

 

Some more good news is that the overdrive unit is isolated from the main transmission by a shield that allows oil to flow through from the main transmission, but the holes are far too small to allow major fragments to travel from the main transmission to the overdrive.  With any luck, the overdrive unit is fine.

 

Regardless, If I can find a new second gear, I will completely go through my original transmission and keep it as a spare.

 

Now to go off and look for some replacement parts.  Fun.  LOL.

 

Thanks again everyone!

 

Joe

[Bloo]

That one is harder to interpret, but on first glance it appears that it was hanging by a thread.

[VW4X4]

5 hours ago, Professor said:

The transmission is out.  I did not need to remove the overdrive unit, there is *just* enough room to slide the transmission back and drop the aft end enough for it to clear the driveshaft tunnel. The space is so close that I had to remove a small parking brake bracket that the driver's side parking brake cable pivots on.  Needless to say, I figured this out after I had the transmission almost out and had to push it back in a bit to remove the bracket.  The transmission is light enough for me to drop it to my chest and then roll it off my chest on to the concrete, but when I put it back in, I will purchase a harbor freight transmission jack to get everything lined up.

 

Next steps are to remove the bell housing after removing the starter and everything else and figuring out how to hold the rear of the engine up (the rear motor mounts are integral to the bell housing).  I will take a look at the flywheel and see if it needs anything and I will have the pressure plate surfaced and replace the clutch and throwout bearing.  While have the floorboards out, I will go ahead and replace the old mechanical brake switch with a new mechanical brake switch and rebuild a factory master cylinder and put it in.  The clutch release pivot points are a worn out disaster, so I will need to either figure out what parts are missing to cause it to be so loose, or replace the parts that are worn out if I can find them. I will go ahead and scrape all of the grime off of the frame and areas around the transmission and get everything clean.  As you can see from the images, it is disgusting down there.

 

I glanced over the stress fracture comments and I appreciate the feedback.  I will take some macro images of the cracks under a good light and see what shows up.

 

Thanks for the comments gang.  More to come!

 

Joe

 

 

Joe,

     You are in for a real treat removing the bell housing and flywheel.  Its easier than a GM, or Ford but still not very good design.   There are two ways to do it, both are a PITA.  The problem is (at least on a 6 cylinder) the flywheel interferes with the bell housing before it clears its crankshaft mounting bolts. These bolts are splined into the crank shaft. There is very little room, but you can tap them back just enough to remove the flywheel.  The other method, which is preferred, would be to install the flywheel  with the bell housing simultaneously.  The bell housing would have to be held in place approx. 1/2" from the block, at the same time, the flywheel would be installed.  This is a real stunt, to do alone.    I've done both methods, and when done, I really felt as if I preformed a miracle.  

     As for the clutch linkage, most of those parts were missing on both of my cars. Anything I found used were all chewed up. I ended up making what I thought was right.  Great to see your pictures, and see what it is suppose to look like.  Is there some type of spring going to the clutch peddle ? I see a fairly large spring in several pictures, but I can't make out exactly where it is going? 

 

ERIC

 

PS  The last time I did a flywheel, I was thinking of machine the edge off of it.  There is plenty of excess material there, and this is why the flywheel is so difficult to install.  Once removed if your car has this problem you may want to consider clearancing  the edge. I figured a 1/2" chamfer would work but have never tried it.

 

Edited October 31, 2022 by VW4X4 (see edit history)

[Professor]

Update:

 

Olson Gaskets could not provide 8 cylinder overdrive gaskets (although they had 6 cylinder non-overdrive gaskets) but they referred me to Northwest Transmissions (937.442.2811) who had the parts I needed.  Northwest had a full gasket set, all external seals, small parts kit, and replacement bearings. The transmission in Iowa (from Facebook) is on its way today and should be here on the weekend via a Uship.com carrier.  The cost was $300 for shipping to my home in NC.  

 

I will spend the week and weekend trying to get everything cleaned up.  I still need to find a source for the throwout bearing, but based on Eric's feedback about how hard the clutch is to get out, it is likely that I will skip replacing this clutch.  The clutch is working fine... and well, if it ain't broke, don't fix it applies; especially since I do not have anyone to help me right now.

 

Once I get the clutch area cleaned up, I will rebuild the master cylinder and get it installed, bleed the brakes, and replace the brake switch with a new one. I am not really in any rush, other than I would like to drive the Chrysler.  I don't like having any of my cars down, but I especially do not like the Chrysler being down.

 

Standby for more.

 

Joe

[Randiego]

Joe,

 

It is a good thing that you found a replacement trans.  I took my 36 Plymouth trans out and has my friend who has a transmission shop go through it.  I called a supplier and got the last synchro assembly that he had (NOS) on the shelf.  For the future, he has to rebuild the clients synchro assy.   Walter Chrysler was unique in  the fact that nothing in the trans resembles the GM or Ford transmissions.  Chrysler Corp. made  unique and interesting units. 

 

If you venture into rebuilding yours so that you have a working knowledge of the trans (that is a good thing, by the way) be sure to note that there is a detent ball under the sliding plate.  My friend forgot (or misplaced) the ball and reassembled it. Lacking the detent ball resulted in gears locking up.  I had a hell of a time getting it out of the "jammed" position (in two gears at the same time) as the gearshift lever would not engage the shifter mechanism.  So....do not over look that small ball.  

 

The other marvel with the Chrysler Corp. transmission was the "umbilical" grease line from the throwout bearing to the outside of the bellhousing.  Wonder of wonders.  You did not have to remove a plate to access a zert fitting to lube the throw out bearing.  Mine mounts outside  on the lower pass. side of the bellhousing.  At service intervals, it is nice to give the screw cap a turn or two to get new grease into the bearing.  So easy!  And when it won't turn any more, you just unscrew the cap and add more grease into the cup.  

I had my local clutch shop rebuild my pressure plate and surface the flywheel.  BUT the throwout bearing showed little or no wear due to the ability to lube it regularly!

 

I hope that you are able to source the gear that is broken.

 

Randy

[Randiego]

Joe,

 

Northwest Transmissions is the company that I got my parts from.  Great guys there and are very knowledgeable.  He sold me the last NOS synchro he had.  Chrysler's synchro is a "hub" and not the individual rings that go against the gears.  Wait till you take your trans apart.  It is an eye opener.  And I had to get the heaviest trans oil to help with the meshing of the gears when I shift.

 

Sorry to hear you are having issues with finding the throw out bearing.  Does your have the umbilical that I described in my previous post?  

I don't think that it was unique to my 36 Plym. P2 Touring Sedan.

 

Randy

[Professor]

Hi Randy,

 

I did not see an umbilical throw out bearing configuration, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t there, buried under the grease… but I think that there is no such arrangement on the 36 overdrive.  I think that the synchro closest to the front of the transmission (front of the car) is worn out, but I will be darned if I know which gear it is.  I will need to look.  Regardless, I think it is worn out, which means that if I need to replace it, I will be in for a search.  Part of me worries that someday, I will run into a broken part that I will not be able to replace and I will be faced with the choice of leaving the car out of commission, or replacing the unit that has failed (transmission, engine, etc.).  I dread having to face the decision of replacing a factory component with a modern equivalent. 

 

This said, with any luck, I will be able to keep this car on the road until my life is over… then, I will pass the problem down to my son.  At that point, I don’t think I will care.  🙂

 

I did however, tell my son that I will haunt him if he sells this car after I die.  ROTFL.

 

Thanks for the input Randy…. Now what did you do with that NOS synchro you were holding for me???

 

🙂. 

 

Joe

 

On Edit:  I removed the detent ball after becoming aware of it by watching a YouTube video on how to rebuild a 36. non overdrive Chrysler transmission.  I love YouTube and this forum!

 

 

4 hours ago, Randiego said:

Joe,

 

Northwest Transmissions is the company that I got my parts from.  Great guys there and are very knowledgeable.  He sold me the last NOS synchro he had.  Chrysler's synchro is a "hub" and not the individual rings that go against the gears.  Wait till you take your trans apart.  It is an eye opener.  And I had to get the heaviest trans oil to help with the meshing of the gears when I shift.

 

Sorry to hear you are having issues with finding the throw out bearing.  Does your have the umbilical that I described in my previous post?  

I don't think that it was unique to my 36 Plym. P2 Touring Sedan.

 

Randy

 

Edited November 1, 2022 by Professor (see edit history)

[Piaras]

On page 318 of your PDF, the C8 calls for 12A11 in the tranny area. The front synchro is for Direct and Second per illustration 12A11 which is page 247 in your PDF. 
Up to now, you had not mentioned issues with the shifting of the tranny, so maybe you are fretting over a worn part but still useable in its current state?

Pierre

[Professor]

Hi Pierre,

 

Yes, there were no transmission issues that I was aware of. However, the front synchro is clearly worn and if I am going to take the failed transmission apart to rebuild it (assuming I can find a new second gear), I would love to replace all of the worn parts if I can.  If nothing else, the replacement transmission is solid and I rebuild the spare transmission that ultimately, someone else will need.  I am actually excited about tearing into a manual transmission for the first time, but you are absolutely correct, I could be creating an issue out of a non-issue.  This may in part be the engineer side of me that wants everything perfect… a loosing cause for sure for someone who ultimately has limited time and resources.

 

I am off to look at the manual.  Thanks again Pierre!

 

Joe

 

16 minutes ago, Piaras said:

On page 318 of your PDF, the C8 calls for 12A11 in the tranny area. The front synchro is for Direct and Second per illustration 12A11 which is page 247 in your PDF. 
Up to now, you had not mentioned issues with the shifting of the tranny, so maybe you are fretting over a worn part but still useable in its current state?

Pierre

 

[VW4X4]

8 hours ago, Professor said:

Hi Randy,

 

I did not see an umbilical throw out bearing configuration, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t there, buried under the grease… but I think that there is no such arrangement on the 36 overdrive.  I think that the synchro closest to the front of the transmission (front of the car) is worn out, but I will be darned if I know which gear it is.  I will need to look.  Regardless, I think it is worn out, which means that if I need to replace it, I will be in for a search.  Part of me worries that someday, I will run into a broken part that I will not be able to replace and I will be faced with the choice of leaving the car out of commission, or replacing the unit that has failed (transmission, engine, etc.).  I dread having to face the decision of replacing a factory component with a modern equivalent. 

 

This said, with any luck, I will be able to keep this car on the road until my life is over… then, I will pass the problem down to my son.  At that point, I don’t think I will care.  🙂

 

I did however, tell my son that I will haunt him if he sells this car after I die.  ROTFL.

 

Thanks for the input Randy…. Now what did you do with that NOS synchro you were holding for me???

 

🙂. 

 

Joe

 

On Edit:  I removed the detent ball after becoming aware of it by watching a YouTube video on how to rebuild a 36. non overdrive Chrysler transmission.  I love YouTube and this forum!

 

 

 

 

Joe,,

    Are you ready for this:  If its man made, it can be fixed. ITs all about how much it will cost, and if it is worth it to you.   I learned this years ago, working with some of the best precious machinists in the world.  They can / would make anything I wanted.  It was all a matter of how much money I would have to pay. This includes the Chrysler  1936 Airstream overdrive transmission.   If you don't believe me go look at Jay leno's garage.  Now, before you run out to a machine shop and spend your retirement, the front half of this transmission was the same built unit from W. gear division, for many vehicles, for many years.  That means there are a ton of them made, and I would find it hard to believe that parts are not available for this section.  Now the overdrive, is a different story.  Shop around a bit. Talk to all the transmission shops.  I bet you, there is more available than you have found so, are. 

      As far as gaskets, go. You can always make your own gaskets.  Furthermore, most gaskets, are hard to find becasue silicone seal has been used to replace most of them.  I've been doing this myself for 20 years. There are two issues with using silicone.  Silicone, does not maintain the same clearances.  Most of the time this is not important. The other issue is dismantling can be a real challenge.  Like it or not, if you do find gaskets, its likely they would be dry rotted, and hardly worth using without a good sealer anyway.

 

I hope this helps..

ERIC

[Bloo]

Harbor freight has gasket punches for cheap. That and a little ball peen hammer for cutting shapes around the edges will get you a long way. A tool to cut large circles also exists, but I don't know where to get one of those. A scissors will get the job done.

 

As for the synchro, what's wrong with it? You can bench test those. When you get it out, get it super clean. put a couple drops of oil on, and then twist it against it's taper. It's just a brake. It should stop or at least grab pretty good. I believe you called it the front one. If it interacts with the input gear, that is the 3rd (direct) gear synchro.

 

Edited November 2, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history)

[36 D2 Coupe]

19 hours ago, Randiego said:

Joe,

 

It is a good thing that you found a replacement trans.  I took my 36 Plymouth trans out and has my friend who has a transmission shop go through it.  I called a supplier and got the last synchro assembly that he had (NOS) on the shelf.  For the future, he has to rebuild the clients synchro assy.   Walter Chrysler was unique in  the fact that nothing in the trans resembles the GM or Ford transmissions.  Chrysler Corp. made  unique and interesting units. 

 

If you venture into rebuilding yours so that you have a working knowledge of the trans (that is a good thing, by the way) be sure to note that there is a detent ball under the sliding plate.  My friend forgot (or misplaced) the ball and reassembled it. Lacking the detent ball resulted in gears locking up.  I had a hell of a time getting it out of the "jammed" position (in two gears at the same time) as the gearshift lever would not engage the shifter mechanism.  So....do not over look that small ball.  

 

The other marvel with the Chrysler Corp. transmission was the "umbilical" grease line from the throwout bearing to the outside of the bellhousing.  Wonder of wonders.  You did not have to remove a plate to access a zert fitting to lube the throw out bearing.  Mine mounts outside  on the lower pass. side of the bellhousing.  At service intervals, it is nice to give the screw cap a turn or two to get new grease into the bearing.  So easy!  And when it won't turn any more, you just unscrew the cap and add more grease into the cup.  

I had my local clutch shop rebuild my pressure plate and surface the flywheel.  BUT the throwout bearing showed little or no wear due to the ability to lube it regularly!

 

I hope that you are able to source the gear that is broken.

 

Randy

Joe

I did a little research in my parts books and there seems to be some ambiguity concerning which cars had the grease line.  All the '36 Chrysler products EXCEPT Chryslers came with the grease line feeding into the clutch release bearing sleeve. BUT my master parts list shows that some of the earlier C7s and C8s may have had a grease line. My '36 Dodge has that setup and it would not be difficult to add one if the sleeve is tapped for it. (or you could tap it and add a line if yours doesn't have one) The sleeve (633234) appears to be common to all '36 Chrysler products except the Airflows. Grease lines are currently offered on eBay.  I may have an extra throw out bearing but have to check.

 

Jim

[Professor]

Thanks Jim.  I will take a closer look at everything when I go out to begin the cleaning process (ugh).  With respect to the throw out bearing, if I am reading the parts book correctly, the C7 and C8 share the same throw out bearing.  If this is true, I might get lucky and find one.  Normally I might go directly to Andy Bernbaum, but they have really missed the boat on most of my orders causing me to have to ship parts back.  They are better than eBay sellers… but it seems not by much lately.

 

9 hours ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Joe

I did a little research in my parts books and there seems to be some ambiguity concerning which cars had the grease line.  All the '36 Chrysler products EXCEPT Chryslers came with the grease line feeding into the clutch release bearing sleeve. BUT my master parts list shows that some of the earlier C7s and C8s may have had a grease line. My '36 Dodge has that setup and it would not be difficult to add one if the sleeve is tapped for it. (or you could tap it and add a line if yours doesn't have one) The sleeve (633234) appears to be common to all '36 Chrysler products except the Airflows. Grease lines are currently offered on eBay.  I may have an extra throw out bearing but have to check.

 

Jim

 

[Professor]

Thanks Bloo!

 

I actually have a gasket punch that looks like the old hole punches we used for paper back in school.  It comes with a variety of punches and anvils so I can easily punch holes if I need to.  With any luck, the gaskets, bearings, and small parts kit from Northwest Transmissions will work.  If not, I will make my own gaskets.

 

As far as testing the synchros goes, thanks so much for the tip!  Once I get the transmission apart, I will test the third gear synchro.  This said, I will wait until I get the new transmission tested, rebuilt where necessary, and installed before I dig into my original transmission.  There are not enough hours in a day these days.

 

Joe 

 

16 hours ago, Bloo said:

Harbor freight has gasket punches for cheap. That and a little ball peen hammer for cutting shapes around the edges will get you a long way. A tool to cut large circles also exists, but I don't know where to get one of those. A scissors will get the job done.

 

As for the synchro, what's wrong with it? You can bench test those. When you get it out, get it super clean. put a couple drops of oil on, and then twist it against it's taper. It's just a brake. It should stop or at least grab pretty good. I believe you called it the front one. If it interacts with the input gear, that is the 3rd (direct) gear synchro.

 

 

[Professor]

Here is the parts page for the overdrive transmission gears and other parts.  My failed part is the second speed gear PN 631888

I will make some calls tomorrow.

 

Joe

 

 

[Professor]

It looks like there are many of these on eBay right now.  Off-brand around $30 and NOS Mopar at $90.  The universal brand scares me a bit, but what the heck do I know?  Any thoughts on sticking with NOS Mopar or going with a new universal brand?  I would lean towards spending the additional $60 and getting Mopar.

[VW4X4]

1 hour ago, Professor said:

It looks like there are many of these on eBay right now.  Off-brand around $30 and NOS Mopar at $90.  The universal brand scares me a bit, but what the heck do I know?  Any thoughts on sticking with NOS Mopar or going with a new universal brand?  I would lean towards spending the additional $60 and getting Mopar.

If this is the case, you might want to try a "GOOD" local auto parts store.  It likely they can get the parts you need.

[rick60]

Your thoughts of using NOS are correct.  Aftermarket replacement parts are not always up to the quality of NOS parts.  There are a lot of horror stories about aftermarket/reproduction parts failing causing catastrophic failures to engines and other components.

[r1lark]

Fully agree, with few exceptions (rubber parts for one), "NOS is best". Next best in my mind, for mechanical parts, is NORS parts of the same era, made in USA stuff.

[Zimm63]

You pulled that cast iron trans out by hand?  Proves you are a better man than me. 

 

I used to do that with Muncie M21s 45 years ago in my Camaro.   Out and in with muscle power alone, laying on my back.  Got really good at it, as I had a thing for tearing up clutches.   Now a days, I really appreciate my lift and transmission jack.  

 

Really enjoy this thread.  

 

Edited November 4, 2022 by Zimm63 (see edit history)