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1966 Chevrolet Corvette Convertible L72-ish *SOLD*


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*SOLD* THIS is exactly how I like my Corvettes. Fully sorted, nicely broken-in, already pre-scuffed, and 100% ready to rock. Watch too much TV and you'd think that the only Corvette you should own is a numbers-matching car with a fresh restoration and Bloomington Gold certification, but the truth is, driving a Corvette gently is like kissing your mother--technically it's the same, but it's really not. This particular 1966 Corvette convertible comes out of long-term ownership where it has been maintained and enjoyed, but not restored. It was repainted perhaps 25 years ago in its original code 976 Nassau Blue and while it looks good in photos and from five feet away, there are plenty of blemishes and signs of use, mostly some bubbles on the cowl at the base of the windshield that are probably the result of a prep issue. If a driver-grade car isn't your thing, you can stop right here. If you like to drive however, you'll be pleased to note that the fiberglass is in excellent condition with none of the usual cracks around the headlight openings and the doors fit beautifully--I don't think it's ever been fully disassembled. Chrome is decent to very good. You won't be ashamed to be seen in this car any more than you're ashamed to be seen in jeans and a T-shirt. 

 

I believe the code 418 dark blue vinyl interior is original. It's in good shape aside from two splits in the driver's seat back, but they could probably be repaired. Or you could just throw some repro seat covers in there, it wouldn't matter. Door panels and the dash are quite good and not cracked or sun-baked, and the steering wheel is in great shape. Gauges are a little faded but they all work, including the tach with a 6500 RPM redline, which helps corroborate that this is an original L72 car (more on that in a moment). I have to admit I hate the way the Hurst shifter looks and feels, but it does work quite well when you're racking it through the gears at speed. There's an aftermarket AM/FM/cassette radio with that unusual vertical orientation and it powers a pair of speakers behind the seats, but one of the knobs is missing. Meh. Clock doesn't work, but who cares? White convertible top is in excellent condition and seals up pretty well. 

 

The engine is a great-running 427 cubic inch V8, although it is definitely NOT matching-numbers. However, it is a 3963512 big block casting, which is a later 427 or 454 block used in cars like the COPO Camaro and LS6 Chevelles, as well as a few less glamorous applications. I don't know exactly where it was born because the stamping pad numbers don't add up to anything beyond a CE--some say it's a warranty replacement block, but who knows? Again, this is NOT a matching-numbers car, so let's not worry about that esoterica here. At least it's a genuine hi-po big block and not some kind of '70s truck block. Either way, it's a fantastic runner. It wears a few markings that suggest this car was originally an L72 427/425 but I have no real proof and my only evidence is circumstantial like the tach and the ancient decals that certainly appear to be original. I do not believe it has a solid lifter camshaft anymore and I didn't bother checking carburetor or distributor numbers--it shouldn't matter on a car like this. I do know that it was rebuilt maybe 10 years ago and was just recently tuned and serviced so it runs extremely well. It starts easily, idles nicely, and man is this thing STOUT! Like most big block Corvettes, it'll drive nicely enough if you're just puttering around, but what it really wants you to do is put your foot on the floor and abuse it. The harder you drive it, the better it works. There's a fantastic whack of torque at any speed and it rips through the gears so quickly you don't really have much time to think about it. Just grab the next gear as fast as you can and hope that one hand on the wheel is enough to keep it going straight. Gear ratios in the Muncie M21 are ideal--as you clutch in the engine RPM falls to exactly the right speed to engage the next gear. It's just joyous to run through the gears. VROOOOM--shift---VROOOOOM--shift--VROOOOOM--shift--VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMM. I'm grinning just thinking about driving this car...maybe it'll be dry tomorrow...

 

It does have manual steering and manual brakes, so man up before you call me because I'm not listening to how your wife needs it to have power steering before you can buy it. Newer Firestone radials with hubcaps, which is a look I like. Chassis is clean and not rusty, but there's a little surface scale on the frame and suspension parts and the dual exhaust system is older but without leaks. It sits right, handles well, and actually doesn't have any serious rattles, another indication of a car that hasn't been blown apart before. Pretty Corvettes with prizes are fine and that seems to be where most guys want the hobby to go. But I promise if you take this one out for a drive, you'll have more fun in 10 minutes than the guy with a trophy car has in a year. Big block 'Vettes were built for combat, not tea parties so treat this one right and make it dance. Price is a pretty reasonable $49,900 and you could drive this car home to California tomorrow. Thanks for looking!

 

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Edited by Matt Harwood
Updated info on stamping pad--it is a CE number (see edit history)
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Thanks for posting the code.

CE engines are replacements.Typically done under warranty. (you probably know this) If the casting date code is later than the assembly date of the car, say 6 months or beyond, then it would make sense somewhat, that the current engine is a factory warranty replacement for the original. I don't know if you want to get into it that far, but checking casting date codes on the other engine components (other than the block), you may find that the dates are in line with the assembly date of the car. Further proof the current engine was a warranty replacement. Example: Your Corvette original owner blew the factory 427, but the car was under warranty. Block was a goner, but the heads, intake, exhaust, & small accessories were still good. The car would get a new shortblock & all the rest of the salvageable good parts would be installed on the shortblock.

Yes, it would just be a story without hardcopy proof, but if you are selling to someone that knows Chevrolets from the 60's, they would know what you're telling them, be able to see it for themselves, and may make a sale easier to complete.

BTW, VERY nice car, and fairly priced.

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George,

                  You are right on point with your info regarding service replacement engine blocks.

I spent enough years at GM as a heavy line tech to agree completely that when a rod would let go, only the short block would be replaced and all the extraneous parts would be original to the car. I would not be surprised to find the heads, manifolds, distributor, etc. all dated coded correctly. And, while I don't put as much stock in the whole numbers match craze as some do today, a date coded CE block is just about as close as you can get (I have a CT-6 coded Muncie transmission in my '65 Corvette, which is a date code correct service replacement, installed under warranty. Hey, sometimes new things break).

I find this car/engine combination quite interesting on another point. The VIN shows it to be a very early build, October 1965. Which was only the second month of production. The 3963512 block began production in October 1968. This would be at the extreme limit of a 24 month/24,000 mile warranty, but a good argument could be made for it still being doable (I have replaced engines in cars with 48 hours left on the original warranty. Of course GM wasn't too happy, but 24 months is 24 months).  

Early production, popular color combination, big block (80 lb oil pressure gauge also helps to confirm this), means this was the kind of Corvette that would not have sat on the lot waiting for a buyer. 

I would be tempted to run the VIN through the NCRS to get the original Shipping Data Report. This doc will show the original selling dealer code and zone. I would not be surprised at all to see this document come back as "Zone 0" car. Which means a GM executive, brass hat, demo (choose your own terminology), or any number of other special order cars. While a Zone 0 designation is not definitive proof, this car has all the earmarks to be just that. Hypothetically? Ordered and enjoyed by the dealership owner for 6 months, then rotated into stock and sold to the public.

So if the date code on this CE block is anywhere from October '68 to 60 (or maybe even 90) days after, I think a good argument could be made for it to have been an original warranty replacement for this car. If those dates bear out, it would be just too coincidental for it not to be.

Greg

PS, Fair car at a fair price. This shouldn't last too long.

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4 minutes ago, GregLaR said:

You are right on point with your info regarding service replacement engine blocks.

Greg,

Thanks for the kind words. It feels good to be right once in a while.

PS. I learned all I know about BBC's while researching and hunting parts for a 1966 Biscayne L72 I bought out of a junkyard in Maryland about 10 years ago.

Edited by George Smolinski (see edit history)
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Jeez, I hope my post didn't come across as nit-picking, Ed. It certainly wasn't meant that way.

I am truly interested in these cars and their histories.

The C2 Corvettes (1963-67) are currently one of the most collectible American cars in existence and with the premium they demand in $$$, they draw many lookers and much inspection/discussion. Unfortunately much of that discussion always revolves around their power plants.

I don't make it that way, it just is. :lol:

I've owned somewhere between 40 and 50 Corvettes (hey, some guys date their secretaries), so when I find one for sale like this one, it draws me the same as the Duesenberg guys seem to know what is what with that marque right down to each individual screw used.

I think everyone understood Matt's point regarding the numbers on this particular car. That being said, it does not mean people won't be interested to know what engine is currently in this car. I'm sure even Matt will attest to how many people are interested in the numbers on probably every Corvette he's sold, whether they match or not. I know they are with mine and yes, it gets frustrating. Even non-matching engines will have a varying degree of value on a C2. 

A 1970's era 454 out of a pick up truck is still a big block but would have a more negative impact on this car (or any C2) than the engine it has which, as I said, appears to be a correct service replacement block which will have much less negative impact on this car.

I'm glad George asked for the pic of the stamp pad and I'm glad Matt posted it. If my stable was not currently full I would probably already have been on the phone with him.

Cheers, Greg

 

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9 hours ago, Ed Luddy said:

Very nice Corvette! I don't know why you guys are so obsessed with the engine block. Matt states right off the top it's NOT original. There are far more items to nitpick if you need, LOL!

Ed,

Greg beat me to it. Nobody is nitpicking. Just stating what a CE block is and how it ends up in a car such as this Corvette. When potential buyers understand this, I believe it makes the car more saleable to them. The next best thing to original is the warranty CE replacement block/engine. I'm sure Matt doesn't need help selling this car, but people following the thread may want to know about the CE block. That's where I was going with my reply.

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13 hours ago, George Smolinski said:

Ed,

Greg beat me to it. Nobody is nitpicking. Just stating what a CE block is and how it ends up in a car such as this Corvette. When potential buyers understand this, I believe it makes the car more saleable to them. The next best thing to original is the warranty CE replacement block/engine. I'm sure Matt doesn't need help selling this car, but people following the thread may want to know about the CE block. That's where I was going with my reply.

Not trying to bust anyone's chops. NOM is just that. The car has way more value as a true taste of the 60's "Only True Sports Car" big block thrills. Just make sure you have seat belts on, proper tire pressure for those skinnys, good U- joints in the half shafts. Then take it to the drag strip, dump the clutch at 3900 rpm so it doesn't go so sideways, hang on tight and be ready for the torque to take over as you mash it!

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20 hours ago, mercer09 said:

be ready for the torque to take over as you mash it!

 

also have money lined up for a new clutch and trans.............from doing the mash..............!

Naw, the transmission can handle it and if the clutch is good it will be fine also. Those skinny tires will be up in smoke and when you hit 2nd gear with a clean shift from the Hurst linkage trying to keep it in a straight line is the hardest part. I've seen the half shafts break and come thru the floor if the U joints are weak. A old friend of mine had to get a few stitches on the back of his noggin from fiberglass shrapnel when this happened.

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Thanks for all the feedback, guys. I think it's very useful--isn't sharing information why we're here? In fact, Greg saved me from a fraudulent Corvette a few months ago, which is a great example of this forum doing what it's supposed to do. It looked pretty good and someone did a decent job of faking it, but Greg's huge knowledge of these cars spotted a discrepancy in the dates that even the forger didn't know about and sure enough, he was right and the car was bogus. It surely saved me some serious problems with a future owner.

 

As for this blue car, I think it's awesome because it's not trying too hard to be anything other than what it is. You're not going to break it as long as you keep street tires on it and it's no joke to say that with these crude big block Corvettes, the harder you drive them the better they work. Close-ratio gearboxes don't like to be gently shifted and babied because if you take your time and go easy, you'll miss the RPM window for the next gear and it'll lurch a bit or you have to slip the clutch to smooth it out. Hammer it and rip the shifts off quickly and it becomes smooth and effortless, like an endless wave of torque pushing you along. If you haven't experienced it, then you're not driving it hard enough. You won't break it and I'd argue that you're driving it properly; even the factory engineers realized when they spec'd the M21 that the only way to NOT make it buck and lurch was to shift quickly and aggressively. With street tires, you'll never break any of the hardware unless it's already damaged somehow. I've had a U-joint give way, which is a little scary, but it's been a long, long time since I've heard of a hurt Muncie in a street car.

 

That's why I love this car. I'll bet the guys who own Bloomington Gold cars don't realize just how much fun they are to drive and would be shocked by a turn behind the wheel of this one at full throttle. As the commercial said, crunch all you want, we'll make more!

 

If the weather cooperates, I'll make a ride and drive video so you can at least hear how awesome this thing is when you get the shifts right. Bam bam bam GO! 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Matt.

This is from a friend of mine that lives in MI and he worked at the GM Tech Center in Warren MI from the 60s to the 90s as a engineer in the Vette section. He has owned many Vettes through the years bought through the Tech center. He bought new and still owns a 62 Vette fuel, big tank and brake car. He sent me this just recently. I remember this car in 70 at a 25 cent car wash during the Detroit winter. I was washing my 65 SS convertible 409 400 4 speed car when he pulled in. His driver side door fell off. both hinges broke at the same time. I help him to put the door back in place. I was 17 at this time period. I will remove if this is not the place to post this story. Thought that you being a Corvette guy would find it interesting.

Thanks

Dave

PS

Beautiful Car!!

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2020-01-18 13_26_02-(no subject) - dave@dodgecityvintage.com - Dodge City Vintage Mail_LI.jpg

Edited by countrytravler (see edit history)
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Hey Dave, I don't mean to hijack Matt's thread but this is a very nice offer. I checked the 1968 Corvette National Registry, but no soap. So I shared your info over on Corvette Forum. It's very likely if this car survived, the current owner will be a member there. The car Matt listed here has already generated some positive info there.

Greg

Edited by GregLaR (see edit history)
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13 hours ago, GregLaR said:

Hey Dave, I don't mean to hijack Matt's thread but this is a very nice offer. I checked the 1968 Corvette National Registry, but no soap. So I shared your info over on Corvette Forum. It's very likely if this car survived, the current owner will be a member there. The car Matt listed here has already generated some positive info there.

Greg

WOW!! Thank you. That would be cool!! This is the guy that owned it.

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Test drives by Zora Duntov remind me of this recording. I had it on tape and used to crank it up in the garage.

Listen to those biased tires crying for mercy.

 

I have known two of his personal friends. Their stories always end up with "and then the Proving Grounds banned him from the track".

 

The old stock car guys I grew up around would have called that a "seasoned" car.

Bernie

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