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1949 Buick Road Master model 70 starter issue?


Brooklyn Beer

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Here we are. 67 degree's with new pertronix. Fired it up and next to no black crap. So warmed it up and away we went for a 20 mile run at highway speeds. It accelerates without a stumble or miss and goes right up to 60-65 and just wants to keep going. No bogging nothing. I had not had the car up to 65 before and it tracked and drove as straight as an arrow. But at a traffic light while in gear it has a miss. It doesn't affect take off though and when given pedal it goes away. I know the idle is a little low. At warm up and under high idle it doesn't have it.  Am I correct in thinking this is an idle mixture adjustment OUT?  Or should I just drive it more with just an idle RPM adjustment. It felt so good to work out the problem and see what she could do that I was all smiles the entire way!  Thanks for everyone's help once again!

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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Reading in the manual I must first access the hole by removing timing hole cover.  Can I ask which side this is on before I rip up the wrong side carpet?  Then I should be able to access the the fly wheel and timing mark VIA the cover.  Says model 70 should be at 6 on the ADV mark.  Now stupid question.  Being the distributor turns counter clockwise which way is retarding or advancing?  They also say set idle to 350 rpm which I do not have the means to get it that exact. How critical is it to get that exact?   Plus as is always, any hints and advice is welcome !

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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38 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

They also say set idle to 350 rpm which I do not have the means to get it that exact. How critical is it to get that exact? 

 

When installing Pertronix, do you remove the mechanical advance weights?  If not, the 350 RPM results in 0 mechanical advance.  Otherwise at higher speeds the advance will be partially in play, affecting the range of your timing curve. 

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The weights are underneath the plate so they were not messed with.  I think it might be closer to 500 but these straight 8's are new to me.  I set the idle by how sounded/felt while in gear and braked and it does feel a little low after blowing it out at highway speeds today for the first time after the issues involved A LOT of crappy idling time.  Tomorrow will be a good day to check the timing as temps and weather is going to be perfect for a January weekend.

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When adjusting the ignition system, precision is key. It would not be a bad idea to invest in a hand held tachometer.

 

Also, make sure you wire the pertronix to a stable keyed voltage source. If you are running the original generator and voltage regulator, do not be surprised if a large voltage surge kills the module. 

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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6 minutes ago, Beemon said:

When adjusting the ignition system, precision is key. It would not be a bad idea to invest in a hand held tachometer.

 

Also, make sure you wire the pertronix to a stable keyed voltage source. If you are running the original generator and voltage regulator, do not be surprised if a large voltage surge kills the module. 

Car has been converted to 12 volt negative ground with an alternator.  I shall look for a hand held tac.  Thanks for the good advice!

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No timing today. I cannot find the timing light anywhere ! Grrrr   I think it went down the road with my 40 ford when I sold it as it was stashed behind the seat.  Have a new one coming.  Curious as to what is a good buy on these hand held tac's.  How precise are they? And how do they work?

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I will tell you what, I must be getting too old to see what I am looking for because all I see is strobe.  I did retard it guesstimated 5-6 degree's till the miss about went away.  Will let it cool down and see how it starts.  Idle at 700 now.  Will drive for a while and see what I got.

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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The yellow paint has probably exited the vehicle. 

Recommend making a white chalk mark on the distributor base below the #1 spark plug wire port.  Then removing the distributor cap. Rotate  the engine till the rotor is near the #1 sparkplug wire port. 

Then manually rotate the engine a small bit while checking for the timing mark in your window.  This would be easier to do if you loosen all the plugs first.

When you find the timing mark, repaint the line. White or yellow paint inside the groove will work.

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I actually think the problem is my own eye's not being able to focus correctly on the mark as I do see some yellow going around I think. Even with my readers on I cannot focus on a line or mark getting as deep down as I can get my head. To me it almost looks the color of a grade 8 bolt. This motor was rebuilt some years ago before I got it so I have no doubt the mark is there, I just can't see it.  Just took it for a 10 mile drive and the miss is 98% gone while in gear at a traffic light.  I just might tweak it another smidge more retarded. It started right up as well with no laboring from operating temp too boot.  also adjusted the idle mixture a wee bit and the idle itself just checked at 725 rpm. That can come down.

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This sounds really basic, but are you sure that the spark plugs and wires aren't one hole off on the distributor?  That happened to me many years ago on my 49 Super.  A friend replaced the spark plugs and wires.  I tried to adjust the timing and kept hitting the end of the adjustment on the distributor.  I then moved the wires over one hole on the cap, as my old Chilton's manual suggested in its troubleshooting section.  It brought the correct timing to the middle of the adjustment band.  Set at 450 rpm, I could about adjust the timing by ear.  I verified it with the strobe and it picked up the yellow mark.

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With engine off, rotate until rotor points to #1 plug wire terminal.  Then search for the mark...may have to rotate engine back and forth.  If you find it refresh with paint or chalk.  If no mark is found research:  "set engine timing with vacuum gauge".

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I am seeing something there but having problem with my eye's and the strobe and being able to focus. It actually screwed my equilibrium up for almost 30 minutes.    I might have to get someone to do it.  Don't ever get blown up, it comes back years later in weird ways.  This being a new one for the list.

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White out is what I used for years to “paint” timing marks. Handy small bottle with brush.  Do they even sell it anymore?😀

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